Parts required for DIY brake job

I'm ready to order F and R pads, rotors are still good, just wondering what other parts I should order. Is there a complete kit, pins, shims etc, or multiple part #s. I understand its pretty straight forward as far as brakes go, but if anyone has any pointers, they would be appreciated. FWIW 03 C2 Cheers

there is a brake kit... call suncoast. Talk to Aaron he'll hook you up. Need a brake flush?

Van has a great DIY video on the subject... https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...-tutorial.html

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http://www.renntech.org/forums/tutor...-instructions/ I change brakes rather frequently due to DE so I have been reusing the vibration dampers (using Brake Quiet to attach them) and reusing the hardware (called a Repair Kit in the link). I changed just the pads and the sensors on my most recent effort.

I forewent the replacement of the brake sensor wires when I did my brakes - I just clipped them and spliced the 2 wires together, then plasti-dipped the connections (the dip, not the spray). In my opinion, the sensors are an unnecessary feature/expense as you can easily see the brake pad thickness from outside. Also, if changing pads frequently (track to street pads, and vice-versa), these wires are a nuisance to constantly mount into and dismount from the pads. Also, I went with Stoptech Street Performance pads ordered from Zeckhausen.com and I am very happy with these. Much less expensive than OEM pads.

Just did mine about 2 weeks ago. Change your Dampers and Shims for sure!!! Also the Spring Kit might be Fatigued change that as well. No need for new Caliper Bolts. I Did it and it was pointless. Also Brake Sensors will need to be replaced if Light Came on

Hey Zookie, how long did it take you? Did you change pads and rotors?

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I disagree. If you want to save a few bucks, keep the dampers and shims, and replace the Caliper Bolts . The dampers/shims just sit there to reduce vibration; you could actually run without them. Of course, they are cheap. so you could replace them for simplicity. Porsche recommends replacing the caliper bolts. Overkill? Probably, but they are only $2.60 each. Better safe than sorry; you never know what heat cycling has done to fatigue the bolts.

You're all forgetting the most important part..... Before starting any DIY job - including brakes - the first thing one buys is a 12 pack of your favorite brew!

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I agree with this. It is important for us to realize that if the manufacturer says to replace the caliper bolts that it is likely because the bolts are designed to deform when tightened to achieve the desired end result. A repeat tightening will not work correctly. At least that is what my engineer brother told me when I asked him this question.

You guys are brilliant, thanks for all the info, tips and vids. Rotors are good, SS lines and flush a few months back, no brake light, yet anyway. I do have a fair bit of pad left, but probably wouldn't pass track inspection. Zookie, did you source any of the parts locally? So a complete parts list would be: pads shims spring kit dampers caliper bolts brake sensors

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You need the caliper bolts only if you are changing rotors. You don't have to take the caliper off to change pads.

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Oh yea, so used to vehicles that need rotors with every set of pads... So who started the rumor P-cars are expensive to maintain anyway??

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Read this Thread https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...rake-time.html You dont need Caliper Bolts if you are not Removing Calipers to Change out Rotors.

I just changed mine... just replaced the pads and threw the vibration things away... no issues. You only need to replace the sensors if they wore through and activated.

You have to be careful when pressing the piston back into the caliper, brake masters don't really like having the pressure reversed. I find that it is easiest to release the bleeder, bleed off a little brake fluid to press the piston back in then finish it with a brake flush. I would also double check the condition of the rubber boots on the pistons, my boots werent torn, but not in great shape, ended up replacing them and rebuilding my calipers with a rebuild kit after inspecting the condition of the calipers when i did my pads and rotors. Also as some others have said for the price of it, may as well replace the shims and vibration dampener, you are there anyways and they will only set you back a few extra dollars. Also recommend replacing the caliper hardware at the same time retention spring etc. may not need to be done, but again, no need to cut corners, not that expensive, may as well do it right. As far as tools and labor go, it is not really any different than doing any other brake pads basic hand tools will suffice channel locks or C clamps etc. there are special tools that can make it easier, but not necessarily worth it for a one time job.

And while you are there you might as well replace your entire braking system.

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You don't have to replace everything, but certain parts are very cheap and may be worth replacing just as proper due diligence. I will admit that I went a little overboard when I did mine, did rotors, pads, sensors, caliper hardware kit, caliper rebuild kit, shims, vibration dampeners, caliper bolts, etc. But I follow the idea do it once, do it right, dont worry about it again etc. you skip out spending $10-20 on shims and vibration dampeners then get a little vibration or noise you will regret not doing them when you have to go take everything apart to redo them. you probably spent more than a few dollars buying your P-car, dont cheap out on something like brakes. maybe on your 92 toyota tercel, but not your P-car. Also depending on where you get your parts, why not buy every possible part you could run into yourself needing then return what you dont need. I know with my shop I spend enough at my local dealership that the parts guys are pretty good about taking returns.

We are talking about brake pads! lol Its not about saving money on a shim or whatever, its that it plain is not even remotely necessary. The retaining spring clip for example doesnt need replacing, bolts dont, sensors dont unless they activated etc... the master cylinder doesnt care when you force the pistons open. People seem overly precious because its a Porsche, really not needed in my personal view.

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I guess you and I differ in that respect as well as probably many others lol, very few things in general car maintenance are required, same as many things in life. It is probably partly due to my **** retentiveness that makes me do these things, same reason when I take off my bumper cover I get new bumper cover bolts screws and hardware for when I put it back in. Same reason that when I did my clutch, I did my IMS bearing and RMS even though it showed no signs of abnormal wear etc. It is just something I do, I always go overboard, but then I know for a fact that I did it, did it right, and wont need attention later on. Unless you plan on using your car for many DE events and will be going through pads regularly might as well take care of a bunch of the little s**t

Totally respect your view on how you maintain your car... For me, my cut of point is on items I consider to be maintenance items, versus those that are not... Like a brake sensor that still works, is a binary thing for me, if it works, it stays, if not, it comes out.

I bought four new shims locally so that I could easily return them if not used. Carefully peel the old shims off the pads with a putty knife and you should be able to reuse them. A piston expansion tool is also very handy.

I doubt the rotors are in spec. Front- rear pads Front- rear rotors Front-rear wear sensors New caliper bolts. Drain brake fluid, replace Wrench to fit bleed nipples. Vacc pump to bleed lines unless you have a helper.