Ticking comes and goes

Right side ticking comes a bit after the car warms up after starting. It accelerates with revs. Turn it off and let it sit a bit and the process repeats. I have brought it to my Indie, awaiting his thoughts. Any thoughts here from this knowledgeable crew ? thanks much

I think you'll get a bunch of advice about swapping oil. It might help and a cheap thing to try? Perhaps try a stethoscope to pinpoint the location

Thanks Chris , my Indie just chatted with me and says he can hear the tick top and bottom with stethoscope but having a hard time pinpointing. Definitely on the right side , left side quiet. Did JG last oil change. Just holding my wallet and hoping for the best. Saga continues

By right side, you're taking passenger side? That's bank 2, where mechanical issues normally surface.

Yes, passenger side

Just upload a video or sound clip. So far, renn-diagnostic has been quite accurate. Best case is sticky lifter and worst is bore scoring. Maybe you can try a can of seafoam in the crankcase and then change the oil and oil filter afterwards. What oil are you using?

Using Joe Gibbs Thx

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IIRC to use JG oil it is recommended (quite strongly I believe) some kind of "flush" is done first to remove any residual oil. (I did a quick search for info on this and was unable to find it, but I recall reading the process online here in fact.) Did you do that?

All good on JG oil. BTW since last oil change only a shade over 1100 miles

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Too bad they don't have black friday in Germany, would be nice to stock pile on m96 engines...

Valve cover off cant record, BTW run it up to 3k hold it and it goes away then slowly comes back at idle

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Well that could point to a lifter which get pumped up more with oil at higher rpm? What is your idle oil pressure?

Pretty good overall , especially when thoroughly warmed up. Have been burning about a 1/2 quart plus t per thousand miles on average. I check by dip stick

Post a video.

It is on the rack and the tick is being hunted down as I type

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take video and post it to youtube.

Any update on this? Sometime I think I hear a ticking and some times no. Curious as to possible causes.

Ill have more on Monday. Long story short, replaced lifters (#1 was very soft) put back together. Yet the tick continues rolls in, rolls out. When cold - no sound ( oil thicker ) , above 3k rpm tick goes away. Rev engine and it goes away also. Indie did some more adjustments checked tensioners etc. So just going to drive it for a bit. Indie says, "car drives great just this lingering tick" . Ill be able to make a recording and posted once I have it back and then go from there. BTW prior oil changes have shown nothing in the filter BUT ..... Indie detected some liquid gasket material. Apparently from the pan being dropped and inspected 8k back on last service by PO (known by former maintenance docs). So it continues

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Doesn't have to be lifter related. Can be injector noise. I have to stress is it very important if the camshaft covers are removed that they are properly installed. The type of sealant used, how big a bead of sealant to lay down, the routing of the bead of sealant, the proper fititng and tightening of the cover (and more) are all crucial to getting the camshaft cover back on the head and bolted down metal to metal contact so the cam bearing, half of which is in the cover the other half in the head obtain the correct shape/size. Additionally all high pressure oil passages that have oil flowing from the head up into the camshaft cover are sealed and do not leak out high pressure oil under the cover.

Scoping the cylinders is fast and easy, and totally non-invasive. I wouldn't be comfortable with spending the money and time to replace lifters for "a ticking" without doing that first. Hope your mechanic isn't charging you for hanging parts.

I wouldn't say it's fast nor easy, it will be a couple of hours labor to remove the sump plate, scope the cylinders from the bottom, clean the plate, re apply silicone and re install... but yeah - I'd be getting it scoped before looking at lifters myself.

I hope this works. The address for Media Airdrop. Video sucks but right side of the car for ticking. Not wearing right clothes to lay under ride. Driven 5 miles back to the homestead. Thanks for the input https://www.icloud.com/attachment/?u...OV&sz=33939822

tlakeusa, if you'd like I can put this on my youtube channel for you. Might make it easier for everyone to view/hear. Fair warning: I'm keeping the ad revenue.

all good with youtube and any extra revenue is yours gratis

Cool, here are the goods, folks: You Tube

This is disconcerting , no replies. Does the abyss loom

Yeah, my next step would be to scope that engine for cylinder scoring. Isnt as loud as mine was bit it doesn't sound good

being phone video its hard to judge but i do have to say it doesnt sound as loud as other bore scoring video i have heard or piston slap I have heard on other brand of cars before. Have you pin the noise to which cylinder? with stethoscope may be able to get closer to the source (i.e block, the head, closer to which cylinders) I think someone above have mentioned that it could also be injector noise.

Could not get it narrowed to one spot. I can retake from under the car or lid up and inside.Then post up for all to peruse. Went to pick it up the other day and it threw a code P1325. Apparently it is cam alignments being off ? Ill know more today. Thx Dr Strangelove for the youtube help and remember no fighting in the War room. Thanks for the input. The saga grows.

That good it threw a code, might be a simple fix. mine never threw a code. Even with severe scoring in cyl 4 & 6 never threw a code. In fact if you ignored the knocking noise and the massive amounts of oil burning, you wouldn't even know. Idled fine and always pulled like a train.

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This brings up a question... What's the end game with cylinder scoring? Failing performance to the point where it's not a viable running engine? What's the cost to correct this situation? Is it worth the cost? How long can an engine run with this condition before it gets to critical mass. Not trying to hijack and this may be a topic for it's own thread...

Yes it's been thoroughly covered in other threads. You can start here: https://rennlist.com/forums/997-forum/931305-poll-scored-cylinder-failure-for-your-997-y-or-n-tell-us-yr-997-1-or-997-2-a-8.html

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Thanks for the link... I never go over to that area of the forum. Good read. I'll do some more searching. In my case, if it ever comes to this, I've already decided an engine rebuild/swap is not economically prudent. I am curious as to how far one can drive with these conditions. Did I see you post in the 997 thread you shared? You have scoring and still running strong?

Here's my thread https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...0-project.html

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Agree with others the ticking doesn't sound as solid as knocking from bore scoring. You may want to check your cats to eliminate it's not cat with loose element inside (your sound doesn't like it but it's free and one more thing to eliminate). Just place a long screwdriver between the cat and your ear and you will hear it if it's knocking. Re P1325, it's bank2 variocam issue. There are many things to check so it will take some good diagnostic to narrow down the culprit before you start replacing anything (can be very expensive if you just throw parts at it w/o deep diagnostic).

Great info and questions , I too have been pondering the financial worm hole. I look forward to reading the above links. As I progress I will keep posted. BTW car still drives very well despite the tick , as reported above wormhole is a theoretical passage through space-time that could create shortcuts for long journeys across the universe. Wormholes are predicted by the theory of general relativity. But be wary: wormholes bring with them the dangers of sudden collapse, high radiation and dangerous contact with exotic matter.

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The progression of a cylinder failure from scoring typically first starts with the ferrous coating falling off the piston skirts. You then get aluminum to aluminum contact between the skirt and bore with highest amount of side loading (and wear) at BDC (bottom dead center). Loads are highest here because the pistons come out of the bore 2mm with the 78mm stroke and 7mm with the 82mm stroke. Eventually, as wear increases, the clearance opens up, and scoring will increase further up the bore from foreign object debris in the oil. Ticking is usually the increased piston to cylinder clearance which is the first symptom, followed by oil consumption, then fouled plugs and misfires.

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Thanks for the info. Sounds like there comes a point in time where the blow by causes the plug/s to constantly foul out and effectively you end up with a dead cylinder/s

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heres my scored cylinders: (4 looked the same as 6) here is bank 1 vs bank 2 close up of bank 2, no codes were thrown but you can see the build up on 4 & 6. As you can see, the build up can be quite significant without codes being displayed:

^^^ thank you for the insight. Haven't had a chance to go through your thread yet but I see you pulled your motor and broke it down... Don't spoil the ending for me

Have you had any luck in finding the root cause or just decided to drive it as is?

No I have not .... the ticking is softer.The right bank of lifters were replaced, #1 was soft and squishy. Tensioners were replaced. Driven it with and additive Liqui Moly for over 400 miles , shot in the dark. I have changed the oil , put in new oil and filter. I am trying to post youtube vids of the 3 times after I went for long runs @ 70 miles plus at 4k to 5 - 6 k rpm on the roads, Even did a Newcomb ranch run just because. My indie has posted on his "indie blogs" . So far nothing. as mentioned , it has gotten softer. It runs great no issues just that damn ticking. When I get the vids up they will be posted as tlake ticking. Thanks for checking , Happy New Year

Here is the latest vid from last weekend on youtube . Trying to get the two prior loaded. You Tube

Up on the rack after the oil change. The one above I am thinking finally circulated fully at full temp ? To be monitored further this weekend https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DFt5...ature=youtu.be

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Post 43 sounds normal. Mine sounds like that but my driver side occasionally has injector noise from bank 1 mid cylinder which sounded like a little tick but definitely not a knock or cylinder scoring like other's video. Post 44 may need some expert to listen to it as it sounds to have more bass... maybe it is the recording though.

Video in post #44 does not sound good. Have you checked if the knocking noise is coming from one of the cats? (by placing a screwdriver between the cat and your ear). Check out this video You Tube

My indie went over it several times with a scope prior to lifters. Perhaps another opinion ... I have driven the car since purchased over 12k in a year and a half. Ticking last 2500. Changed oil 3 times since purchase. All filters clean , dropped pan 1200 miles ago only thing in it was a couple of bits of tube gasket material. Otherwise very clean. I ll post another vid after this weekend. Hopefully not of a trailer towing my ride. C'est la guerre

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My engine used to make this sound, then I started wearing ear plugs when I started it.

Ear plugs may be imminent but say hello to the return of my little friend. On and off , on and off again. These are vids from a 13 mile warm up to breakfast, Then a 40 mile loop through LA to cars and coffee. Warm up as you will hear same old tick and then post loop no tick as in panel 43. Between the tick and uploading to youtube I do not know which is more high maintenance https://1drv.ms/a/s!Aj0A0nKjegIvkDwfhZHqfTAFbtdr https://1drv.ms/a/s!Aj0A0nKjegIvkD1XojZfyqtQ4-6o

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So the first video is the warmup and the second video is after fully warm?

Exactly

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How are you warming up your car? Driving off immediately or letting it idle for 5 or 10 mins?

Take my time, shift below or at 4k . This lasts til the temp reads the inside edge of the zero in 180. This morning it was 45 degrees so a little cooler and took a little longer. Should have been fully warm when I stopped at the Pantry. Obviously that came later. BTW when I pull out of the garage there is no ticking.

Any chance this is an exhaust leak? Might explain why it comes and goes. Metal expands/contracts with heat.

Might be, that could be a good piece of science. Yet , it does not make a standard exhaust manifold sound. It is a tick. This is quiet the mystery at the moment.

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Hmm, I�m a little confused. After driving for 13 mins, the car should be mostly warmed up - well into the 150F+ range, maybe not fully to 200F, but not cold at all. All I can say is that my car makes a ticking/rattle/knock when warming up unless I drive off immediately. The noise is never there when fully warm, and rarely there even when cold, unless I let it idle to warmup. Then it sounds pretty bad, like something is wrong. I believe my issue is the exhaust system.

On the PPI back in the day I was told that the PO had done , by intent or not, the right thing driving 50 some minutes so my guy could go over the car. Fully warmed up. Heard that from a couple of other sources too. So I stay under 4k on grocery getting or short rides. In a couple of weeks my Indie will , check the exhaust manifold and boroscope , just bc it now only makes sense . Unless they find something else. So to be continued with weekend monitoring til the drop off.

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see if your indie can listen to the fuel injectors?

Definitely will have injectors looked at

similar situation with my car. comes and goes. will be interested to see what you find

So Tom have you just driven it despite the tick ? PM me if you wish. Within the next two weeks the ride will be at the shop and going through the items mentioned above and I will report the latest up date.

Soooooo , after a bunch of travel , new water pump (proactive) , then a stop at the shop. We eliminated exhaust leak issues and boroscoped the cylinders. Ticking still comes and goes. Even replaced the oil pump, there are two. Now thinking it has to do with oil pressure that comes and goes. So rehash lifters passenger replaced , check. Exhaust leak , check, Boroscope, check , Oil pump , check. Ticking still comes and goes. Driving it a bunch til Monday, then back out of town. It contiunes. BTW sound is the same no matter what cylinder we use the stethoscope on 4 - 6

Mine was like that eventually the tick doesn't go away. 4,5,6 cylinders were scored on mine. I drove it for a at 30k km ticking with it like that. Mine also if rev'd the tick would increase in speed with the rpm but would stop ticking after after a certain point. When I had it borescoped they could only tell that one of the cylinder were scored but they noticed that oil was pooling in the others as well spark plugs were fouled up.

Appreciate the thoughts jumper. Our thoughts are that because it comes and goes at almost any level , start up , during 50 - 75 mile ride , end of a ride , freeway or mountain miles etc. Oil pressure due to mechanical failure is the main issue with a part somewhere. The lifters are all done , the sound is constant through the cylinders, but not loud or a slap. Oil pressure is solid all the way around. Perhaps pull a plug to see if any are loaded up ? Scored cylinders would hopefully not be the issue. Really appreciate the information however. As before more to come

Does it have a DOF IMSB by any chance?

Nope no direct oil feed just the standard double row

Well here is the quiet engine again, after a lengthy morning of driving. It ticked at various times during the day. Getting ticked off https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z6dp...ature=youtu.be

Sorry if I missed this, but did you have it scoped to check for bore scoring? If not, why not just do that?

Yep , nothing popped up. As we work through this the cha ching keeps churning too. Cars and coffee today , someone suggested a head bolt might be loose.

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a true head scratcher here... I would just drive it and put some money aside for a flat six innovation 3.8 in the future 😏

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I would recommend doing used oil analysis and while you are servicing your car, drop the oil pan for inspection and also look closely at the filter. If you need help evaluating the results, just send me a PM.

The flat 6 3.8 could definitely be an option. Thanks Charles for the suggestions and the offer. I will take you up on all of these. I have also double checked my AAA 100 mile towing limit...... Just in case. Appreciate the thoughts and support on the blog.

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Could it possibly be the regeneration valve? Or is it confirmed that the noise is coming from the block and is more mechanical sounding? https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...ion-valve.html

Going to throw that at my Indie. We tend to think it has something to do with oil pressure because it goes quiet above 3k or with increased revs. Then again at different times on the road. Going to check out and forward the link. Thanks In the mean time I guess we will see if one side of the exhaust at some point starts to soot up strongly and keep an eye on oil usage.

Curious one indeed, that part is very easily accessible from the engine compartment (its right in front when you open the hatch). Might be worth attempting a DIY to swap it out, its not an overly expensive part. However in saying that its mostly associated with re-fuelling (can't fill or hard starts after fuelling) so throwing a new part in might not be the answer. Worth investigating though

I recall reading that the crank bearing case has oil jets aimed at the piston skirts, but they aren’t activated until the oil pressure reaches 1.8 bar. I don’t know at what rpm that occurs, but could it be possible you hear the knock at the low pressure/rpm, and it goes away when the 1.8 threshold is reached? just an idea...

Going to work the odds and ends , anything is cheaper than a new engine BUT I also need to stock dinero just in case Armageddon arrives.

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Long shot, but if you are suspecting oil pressure problem, check the swirl pots. There was a post here about these clogging up with chain pad debris. https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...-solution.html

I know Ahsai mentioned this early on, and on one video the sound was loudest right as your phone passed under the passenger side Cat. Check this again and listen (or have your Technician) directly to the passenger side Cat. There has been more than a few miss this as the source that "sounds" like piston slap.

Swirl pots and Cats now on the list. All will be investigated. Thanks for the thoughts

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Mine after being warmed up won't have a tick. Only did it while cold. Then eventually it started ticking all the time but sometime rarely would stop and sound great until the next stop light. Found a old video of my tick at cold start You Tube

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Whatever happened to your tick then?

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the block is getting bored out to 99.5mm then sleeved with aluminum cylinders that have been plated with nikasil coating

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Got it. So the knock was the piston hitting the cylinder walls? Or was it a bearing?

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No problem with bearing. The car had the IMS replaced with a early LN bearing but is getting the new IMS pro bearing now that should be a much better since it's going from single row to a dual row with the new bearing. 4,5,6 cylinders were scored on mine. I drove it for a at 30k km ticking with it like that. The sound is piston slap When I had it borescoped they could only tell that one of the cylinders were scored, after pulling it apart and clean up 3 were scored.

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How was it running after 30km driven with the ticking? I'm curious as to how long one would be able to run with ticking before it becomes necessary to decide what course of action to take assuming the ticking is piston slap not some other source.

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30,0000 km. It was tracked during this time as well. Lot of blue smoke at startup when engine was below 50F and after track sessions. As I said it was a gradual noise and eventually endup up like that is in the vid all the time. The car was even put on a awd dyno and was showing up the similar hp/torque as other 996 4S's. I imagine it could still run like that until the cylinder eventually cracked but wasn't going to take the chance. I think the piston slap was worse at idle and went away under load so driving it hard didn't matter it was when it was idling that would have killed it.

30k is a bit of mileage to play with for me. Lots of pieces her to contemplate. As I come across more I will continue to post. Seems that several are dealing with this. Far from done for now.

Jumper yours is pretty loud. Very interesting

Here�s mine: You Tube Only happens on cold start from about 5 seconds in for about 3 minutes if I let it idle. If I drive off immediately, it goes away after maybe 5 seconds. Doesn�t happen when warming up or hot. Never any debris in the oil filter. Sounds like piston slap to me on many cylinders, but then sometimes downgrades to what sounds like a single knock from a single cylinder.

That is some decent chatter going on. I feel your pain. Good news is the Cubbies are looking good in Spring training

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should start saving up for a rebuild it will only get worse

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Have you positively eliminated the Cats? I keep hearing these piston slap videos and can't help but think the Cats should be positively eliminated FIRST. If you don't have a stethoscope, you can use your longest screw driver placed against your ear and the Cat and listen to both Cats, there will be a distinct difference if one is loose internally (must be checked while noise is present).

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I haven�t yet, no.

996 ticking noises can be signs of a problem or just a feature of the engine and its management system. If it is a tiptronic and at tickover the noise goes away or reduces if you engage “D” or if you switch on the air-con and it goes away or reduces and your tail pipes are equally sooty - you probably do not have a serious problem (boroscope to check). The model has several reasons for a tick and several cures and sometimes it cannot be cured. It is usually from the bank 2 area half way from the crank to the camshaft, back of engine cylinder 4 area. All engines speed up and slow down between each firing stroke and this causes a shake to the various chains and cams and tensioners. When tickover was adjusted by a screw you raised it until any “ticking stopped” (hence the term tickover) but to reduce emissions the tickover speed drops as the engine warms up so older engines that a very free running and with lower oil pressure and weaker leaking tappets can lower the revs too far when hot (especially if you leave it running to listen for a tick). Revs can be increased when re-mapping – there are 8 or 10 settings at different temperatures – sometimes raising these sorts the problem. Some temsioners plastic followers have a steel domed piece for the steel tensioner to press against – after a while the dome flattens and replacing this with a nylon 66 one can reduce noises. The tensioners are a very poor design. No reservoirs and not even a sprung loaded ball non-return valve. Furthermore the feed is after all the other drains on oil pressure and flow from the tappets, variocam systems, camshaft bearing areas etc. The tensioner has a tiny flat plate that is supposed to seal the return stroke if the chains ******. The bank 1 tensioner allows the plate to fall onto the sealing face so when you strip it you usually find it full of oil still. The bank 2 one is upside down and is always empty when you strip it. There is not even a seal on the piston. We tried making ones with different springs and a ball valve which sometimes worked often didn’t and finally concluded that at tickover the tensioner piston just flaps back and forth and the oil flow form the head isn’t sufficient to keep it pressured – hence the tick. Any uneven running between cylinders makes things worse and rebuilds with better than standard compression or bigger pistons can create a slight problem. Other reasons already previously listed by other contributors are all valid. Because the flywheel speed sensor reads the speed evert 3 power strokes any imbalance can only be adjusted by the ECU on the third stroke and as cylinder 4 is next and the bank 2 cam chain on the end of the IMS shaft feels any adjustment next, that chain receives the jerk. So unless you have other problems or signs – it is probably just a noise that many have wasted hours trying to fix and usually eventually give up after absolutely everything has been changed and the tick is still there. Baz

Baz thanks so much for putting this information out there. Really appreciate the thorough breakdown

Very interesting comments. Thanks for posting!

Here is my 4,5,6 walls before and after pic

Jumper did you get the cylinders done with nikasil yet ?

Yes engine is almost ready to put back in the car. I got it done by a place in Quebec Canada which saves a lot of red tape, currency conversion and customs hassle of shipping and having work done in the USA.

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Did you get LN sleeves? Or something else?

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Something else was bored out to 99.5mm then sleeved with aluminum cylinders that have been plated with nikasil coating

Went for a 100 mile drive today. Everything fully warm and flowing, as they say. Got home and in the garage she ticks softly and also seems to fade in and out. Resigned to her staying annoying or Armageddon looming. Until then I'll update as needed. You Tube

That is exactly how mine was when it first starting ticking. Looks like you got some time before its get worse and starts freaking out the mechanics like mine did.

Yeah, apparently since I do about 5k in mileage per year I have about 2 to 3 years til oh crap time. Was thinking of selling the car b4 all this but now gotta ride it til something absolute occurs. Going to enjoy the summer instead. Thx for the numerous posts

Tlak - Feeling your pain. This sounds similar to the ticking on my MY 2000 with 76K miles (LN ceramic IMS, single mass flywheel, Fabspeed intake and exhaust mods, all timing chains, ramps and pads updated at 65K). Mine "ticked" most consistently after a thorough warm up and some runs up to @ 6K revs. Then when dropped back to idle (back in the garage) the noise was at its worst. I became convinced it was oil starvation. My Indie tentatively agreed, as he saw oil pressure fluctuation under load during a test drive. He changed the oil and found no debris in the filter, but then at my insistence dropped the pan and found lots of chain ramp and lifter plastic debris clogging up the oil pickup tube and screen. A second oil change, a rinse with Rislone, a new oil pickup tube and updated oil pressure valve, and another oil change seems to have cured the problem. I have flogged it pretty well since with no ticking. Apparently, it took a while for all the plastic debris to collect in the center of the engine and cause a problem which I think is why mine took 5 to 10K of use after the ramps and pads were replaced to display the ticking sound. Have you made sure you don't have debris clogging your oiling system?

Hey Turker, my Indie and I dropped the pan and cleaned it about 4k ago. The only thing in it was just a touch of silicone. The pickup was clean. Timing chain pads all replaced. When I bring up revs the ticking goes. When I start it there is the normal few seconds and it departs then too. Yet, as per .... at different times the ticking does return. Went to a Cars and coffee over the weekend and enjoyed the summer w the top down til Sunday night. Put over 400 miles on the ride and same thing some ticking and then no ticking at various times. Thinking I am going to do the oil towards the end of Aug and see what pops up. Really appreciate you sharing your thoughts.

Just a random thought, if the ticking come and goes. not sure if you can see if it is vario cam related. If ticking is there at start up, dont go over 3k and drive around for extended miles see if ticking ever starts. Then you go to high RPM and see if that causes the ticks to come on. If it does, drive around again and don't go over 3k and see if it ever goes away or stays ticking. If it stays ticking for a long period of time, try to goes into high RPM again and see if it goes away. Not sure if that make sense but was thinking if cam actuating and something stick then later on unstuck... Just a thought and I am sure some of the expert can chime in if this even work at all as vario cam plus is not really an on and off... Can the cam be controlled by durametric while idling and see if the tick can be induced?

Why not talk to an m96 expert, someone that knows these motors like the back of his hand...Jake Raby would be my first thought.

^^ The problem with ticking is that it could be anything: lifters, piston slap, tensioners, coolant pipes (for real), cats...hard to diagnose over the Internet.

Good point ,fortunately I have had many pretty sharp members chip in. Many recognizable names around the Porsche universe. Jake probably has more things to do than play 20 questions with me til things get really serious. I am close to Tony Callas' location but that could lead to an equity loan scenario. My Indie aint so bad either , 35 years family owned Porsche shop. So I am hunkering down til the fickle fate of the Gods enlightens the situation. Sweetie pie and I just go out and enjoy a great car. Otherwise, I maintain / monitor things as close as I can. As questions, thoughts , or my updates occur I post . The worm hole does end somewhere, right ?

^^ Yeah, the problem will eventually reveal itself. Just be thankful it�s a car and not your health

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true statement

+996 on your own health vs car health Have you got a spin on oil filter adaptor and done an oil change? Maybe clutching at straws/an attempted band-aid fix but for ~$200 might be something worth considering?

Health is key and I have miles to go before I sleep. Porsche stuff , oil change end of Aug probably. Last one was when we dropped the pan. Charles , Baz, Murphy, Porsche tech, Jumper, Ashai and others have been great. Baz's points were pretty interesting. What i have found unique is that the ticking does not increase / decrease with revs. Possibly not engine mechanical ? Going driving this weekend for sure no matter. Best to all

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That�s interesting.

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Huh?? Are you sure? Post #1 Right side ticking comes a bit after the car warms up after starting. It accelerates with revs. Turn it off and let it sit a bit and the process repeats. I have brought it to my Indie, awaiting his thoughts. Any thoughts here from this knowledgeable crew ? Surely you're just jerking our chain !!

So instead of starting a new thread I am going to toss in that I am off on a solid road trip . Kind of a what the heck with the ticking , which BTW still comes and goes. So LA to Coos Bay Oregon and back. I am in Redding now and going to hit the 299 West at the crack of dawn to the Calif coast then up 101 through the Redwoods and along the coast to Coos Bay. I will reverse that somewhat and come back 101 to SR 36 to I5 on my way back home. I will of course be monitoring my nemesis "the tick". Had the oil changed , sent in oil sample to be checked , put on new S belt and had new tires installed. Gave the ride a good wash and wax. Should be sunny with a small chance of rain the whole time. I have my tunes lined up and the drop top is ready to disappear. I am keeping close track of the miles and mileage also. BTW the last fill up for gas the ticking still came and went.

So a few things from my solo ride to Coos Bay and back. A touch over 2k miles. Did oil change before I departed. Had oil analysis done by Speediagnostix . Good group, they work with LN too. Report showed no metals in oil but a touch of fuel in the oil. The car ran like a champ. BTW I5 from the Grapevine to Stockton either driection was averaging 85 easy. So I took SR 299 from Redding to 101 top down playlist cranking. Then 101 Redwood route through a misty cold morning to Coos Bay. Side note, most passing lanes were uphill and a breeze in Oregon. Did have an ignition issue mid week. Apparently the ignition is known for wearing out and leaving the car dash / interior lights on when worn. Thus it will not turn off the car electrical system. The spring also does not lock the key in place after starting. Luckily 10mm wrench disconnected the battery and helped dodge the key bullet. BTW unless the key is adjusted a touch to the left the wipers and headlights are out of sorts big time. Anyways drove 42 to Medford and back in Oregon to visit pals. Then departed back down 101 to SR 36 to catch the I5 back from Red Bluff to LA. Another great experience. The C4 Cabriolet was a joy to drive. Yes, it still ticks on and off. When I hit 3k post most recent oil change, I may get another kit for another analysis . The beat goes on. Used GoPro on trip and trying to section out pictures for posting.

hello, My car sounds very much like Jumper5836. It started about two years ago and 27k miles. I use about a quart of oil every 1400 miles. I've tried different oil weights, lifter quiet, and have done an engine flush over this time period. My local Porsche mechanic said it is hard to say for sure without spending the cash and effort to take a few things apart. He said he has seen these cars make this noise for a long time before anything goes boom. 2 years and almost 27k miles is already pretty long. It still pulls pretty strong and doesn't give blue smoke at startup. My thinking is to save my money for a good rebuild and drive this until it is clearly on its last lap. It will be an interesting data point to see how far it will go. I admit that I don't spend much time above 5k rpms. I daily drive on the highway and the long periods of 6th gear and 2900 rpms is probably not taxing the internals much. I never accelerate in 6th or 5th gear, only cruise and I downshift for any hills.

Just a heads up if you've not read this thread 996 ticking lifter/valve noise fixed!! my findings and solution . Nathan hits on several things and appears to be pretty good with a wrench. I also used oil analysis with Speediagnostix / LN use them too. They have a good easy to use test kit. You get back a full report. As mentioned no metals in my oil. I am going to follow the above discussed swirl pots clean out on my next oil change. A couple of pic's from my Oregon run. Again the car drove great.