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YOUR RESEARCH99 996 wont crank, but can be push started
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Check voltage at the relay and i was seeing 12v
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Also i checked voltage at the relay and I was seeing 12V when in the on position between pin 30 and 87.
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Okay, you have 12V on the Y-cable at the starter, and you have checked the voltage at the starter relay.
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Again as mentioned above, Take your battery out and have it tested, no matter what you think, it's best to illuminate that first, then ignition switch next starter.
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First things first, get the battery tested under a normal cold crank load.
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Again as mentioned above, Take your battery out and have it tested, no matter what you think, it's best to illuminate that first, then ignition switch next starter.
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Also a quick search at the time showed issues that these have with the clutch pedal switch, but I tired jumping the switch and it didn't work either.
Hey guys, the other day I went to start my 996 and it would not crank. Turn the key and nothing, no noise from the starter or anything. I was able to get it started by having some friends help my push start it since its a manual, so I don't think its an immobilizer issue. Also a quick search at the time showed issues that these have with the clutch pedal switch, but I tired jumping the switch and it didn't work either. The car isn't giving me any codes when I scan it and the battery is less than a year old. Where should I start to figure this out?
Don't let the "I've got a new battery" thing fool you. Brand new batteries that sit up unused can create internal shorts that cause premature failure. First things first, get the battery tested under a normal cold crank load. Then take TexSquirrel's advice and work from there. There are many links in the chain that will need to be tested.
How should I test the voltage at the starter? Can I place leads on the large wire going to the starter with the key in the on position or while trying to crank?
The easiest is to get another car to attempt jump start at the engine bay. If that works, you may have a battery issue. If that doesn't work, you need to go to the rear relay panel, unplug the start lock relay and check if you get +12v on pin 30 when you crank.
Check out this post #46
here
.
Start with checking for 12V at the jump start terminal in the engine bay. Should be 12V hot all the time. Check for 12V across the battery terminals. Check your engine ground wire for attachment and corrosion.
Do the headlights work or the horn? If not, then most likely battery...nobody ever wants to believe it's the battery when that is the easiest to troubleshoot.
To test the voltage at the starter: Take the positive lead of your multi tester and tape it to a section of fishing rod or similar and guide it back
to the starter terminals. You should get voltage at terminal 36 at all times, if so then get someone to turn ignition switch while you hold probe
to the #50 terminal at the back of starter. There should be 12 volts there when you turn ignition switch to the start position. If you have
voltage in both instances your starter is faulty. If you have no voltage at terminal 50, your best bet is to buy both an ignition switch and start
relay and replace both. Hopefully there are no signs of rodents in your ride.
I tired this but was not sure what I was seeing. When touching the terminals at the starter and touching ground I was reading 0 volts, even when someone cranked. But If i touched the positive terminal in the engine compartment I would read 12V regardless if the key was in the ignition or if the car was being started. Also i checked voltage at the relay and I was seeing 12V when in the on position between pin 30 and 87. I havent checked this with the key in the start position.
I wanted to add that I am getting 12V at the battery and at the engine bay terminals. I could take the battery to be tested but I dont think its the issue. I also tried jumping it with the terminals in the engine bay with my other car and no luck either. No cranking at all. Also I dont feel the starter relay click really when the key is in the on position or when the key is start position.
It's tight and tricky to see back to the starter. Are you sure you made good contact at both pins?
Again as mentioned above, Take your battery out and have it tested, no matter what you think, it's best to illuminate that first, then ignition switch next starter.
You can also try this: take the start relay out of the relay panel and install jumper between pin 87 and 30. Then use your key and try to turn over the engine.
let us know what you find.....
Sounds like your Y-cable is bad. If you have 12V at the engine bay terminal, but not at the starter terminals, then the Y-cable is broken.
#21 here
http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-p...section=902-05
That diagram helped alot. I learned that the y cable connection is covered on the starter, so I was touching on the other terminals on the starter. When I uncovered and tested it I am getting 12V as it should. What else should I test before taking things apart and removing the starter?
Okay, you have 12V on the Y-cable at the starter, and you have checked the voltage at the starter relay. If you have someone turn the key to start, then you should have 12V at the starter solenoid terminal (the little terminal on the starter). If the starter solenoid does not click or kick the starter, then the starter solenoid is faulty. You can get a new Bosch starter on Amazon. Do not try a re-manned starter. They don't last very long.