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Exhaust Leak-Best way to fix??

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YOUR RESEARCHExhaust Leak-Best way to fix??

Leading reported evidence

Use air hammer socket adapter

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Suggestion

Have you tried using an air hammer socket adapter?

Exhaust Leak-Best way to fix??
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Leading evidence: 'Use air hammer socket adapter' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Use air hammer socket adapter' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.

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Use air hammer socket adapter

No successful repair reported for this finding.

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Reported fixes
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Discussions that contain suggestions
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0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.

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Suggestion

Have you tried using an air hammer socket adapter?

Exhaust Leak-Best way to fix??
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POST 1 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

I have noticed a slight exhaust leak for a while. I finally tracked it down, to what looks like is a break at the flange on the exhaust manifold, where it meets the cat.. What is the best way to fix? I am sure if I try to remove the exhaust manifold, and replace it, I am almost certain to break some bolts off. Car has 100k+ miles on it. Can this be welded led from the outside of the flange? Position at rest. If I flex the cat a little, a gap opens up.

POST 2Original post

Should be able to weld that in place, as long as you can clean up the corrosion with a grinder or wire wheel.

POST 3Original post

TNT63 - Love your avatar! Can I come visit your garage?

POST 4Original post

Phil from Fabspeed here. You should be able to weld that. I would check the the parts before you spend the money to weld them just to have them break again or fail while welding or soon after. A trick to take the bolts out is to heat them up before trying to take them out.

POST 5Original post

That can be welded easily. Clean up the pipe and bracket plate with a wire wheel and have someone MIG or TIG it. Drop it from the car and I'm sure you could find a welder that would do it if you bought them lunch.

POST 6Original post

Quotes source post: 15397448

I agree with you Billup in theory. Just please check the integrity of the pipe as well if it rusted through there that is probably not the only weak part.

POST 7Original post

Quotes source post: 15397448

I agree with you Billup in theory. Just please check the integrity of the pipe as well if it rusted through there that is probably not the only weak part.

POST 8Original post

Best way to fix it is with a new Fabspeed header. I can't believe that Phil didn't suggest that earlier.

POST 10 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

Quotes source post: 15397320

Hey, believe me...if that were my garage, I�d never leave it!

POST 11 / ORIGINAL POSTEROriginal post

Thanks for the feedback. The car came with an aftermarket exhaust, and I have a feeling it caused some stress in the exhaust, when they bolted it on. The pipes are solid, and the break shows when I apply pressure upwards on the catalytic converter. As far applying heat to rusted bolts on exhaust manifolds, I must be doing something wrong. EVERYTIME I try that, I still end up snapping them off. I try and be soooo very careful, but it usually ends up with me letting some very colorful words fly!

POST 12Original post

Quotes source post: 15398137

Damn! I am coming out to Dublin in a few weeks. Was hoping to stop by and check out your garage! :-P

POST 13Original post

Quotes source post: 15398150

Have you tried using an air hammer socket adapter? I have one of these: https://store.snapon.com/Socket-Adap...--P636879.aspx

POST 14Original post

Quotes source post: 15398150

We normally take the car out for a nice long drive to heat up the block and the bolts together. We do not only apply heat to the bolt head.

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