nor Indy or dealership could fix it I need you guys help!!!

Ok so here is the story on my 911. I have a 2004 Jahre 40th Ae with 152k miles. The car is great the problems are as follow. Sometimes the car will run PERFECTO no issues at all, pulls hard and drives great,. other times it will only throw a 0302 check engine light, which is a misfire #2 cyl. I have changed the coil and sparkplug, the Indy and the Porsche dealership have both tried to fix this problem, they have done a leak test, compression test, smoke test, im sure they have done every test and nothing, The car will go days, weeks and sometimes months without any issues no CEL's at all. But when The car gets a wild hair in the tail pipe, I will get a CEL 0302 about 5 to 10 times a day but it only happens when im on a dead stop. the car will shake and the CEL light will blink and eventually go solid, if I rev the car pass 2k RPM and leave it there while is blinking the CEL will go away with in 5 seconds. around the same time this issue started my drivers side seat doesn't heat up, the cruise control only works when it feels like, I know those might not have anything to do with it but is worth a shot, If anyone has this issue please I need help. the car have been doing this for 2 yrs now. Thank you all in advance.

a battery that's not healthy will throw all sorts of weird codes and behavior.

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Whenever I read of a car with a number of problems like in your car's case misfires, a seat heater not working, cruise control intermittent I always think of rodent damage. If the car is left unused for some period of time -- and this can only be a week or two -- rodents can get at the car and gnaw hoses, wiring and what have you. If one assumes the symptoms are unrelated and they very well may be then the misfire reads like a problem with the low/high lift feature of at least one intake lifter of cylinder #2. A "test" that may or may not be conclusive is to at a cold start let the engine idle for a few minutes at least until the cold idle RPMs drop. If the engine runs rough (at least rougher than normal) and if the CEL comes on and the error code is P0300 and with one or more other cylinder specific misfire error codes, this can be a sign one or more cylinders have "bad" lifters their low/high lift feature isn't working right. In this case -- well, at least after a high confidence diagnosis is made -- lifter replacement is the only cure. Some things you can try that might possibly help (provided the intake lifter or lifters are not at fault). Try a bottle of Techron. Use according to directions on the bottle. Well, almost. The bottle I buy treats 20 gallons of gasoline but I just dump the entire bottle into the fuel tank and fill the tank. The general rule is if one notices any improvement in the engine to run a 2nd bottle when the fuel level of the tank with the first bottle of Techron is low, below 1/4 tank. I'd suggest even if there is no improvement you still try a 2nd bottle. Afterwards arrange to change the oil and filter. Regarding oil: Be sure you are using an approved oil and one that has the right multi-viscosity grade for where you live and drive. 0w-40, or 5w-40 or even one 5w-50 are all available to you but only 0w-40 is suitable if you drive in cold (Porsche says -25C) weather. Be sure you don't run the oil too long. I have found 5K miles to be a good change interval for my usage. You can try two bottles of Swepco 502 oil improver. (Two because one just treats 5 quarts IIRC while the engine carries nearly twice that much oil.)

A blinking CEL is not good. That's a "flatbed it to the nearest shop" type of indicator - and is often associated with bad timing/cam deviations or other potentially damaging engine problems. I'd say if your battery checks out, stop driving the car until you figure out the problem. Good luck

[QUOTE=Macster;14020473]Answers [QUOTE] Whenever I read of a car with a number of problems like in your car's case misfires, a seat heater not working, cruise control intermittent I always think of rodent damage. I don't think is Rodents since I drive the car everyday If the car is left unused for some period of time -- and this can only be a week or two -- rodents can get at the car and gnaw hoses, wiring and what have you. The car was on a lift and no signs of rodents and the car is driven 98% of the time If one assumes the symptoms are unrelated and they very well may be then the misfire reads like a problem with the low/high lift feature of at least one intake lifter of cylinder #2. could that happened randomly like 1 day and not for another week or month? A "test" that may or may not be conclusive is to at a cold start let the engine idle for a few minutes at least until the cold idle RPMs drop. I do that every morning I let it idle until the RPM drops If the engine runs rough (at least rougher than normal) and if the CEL comes on and the error code is P0300 and with one or more other cylinder specific misfire error codes, this can be a sign one or more cylinders have "bad" lifters their low/high lift feature isn't working right. In this case -- well, at least after a high confidence diagnosis is made -- lifter replacement is the only cure. the only code ive had is P0320 for the past 2 yrs Some things you can try that might possibly help (provided the intake lifter or lifters are not at fault). Try a bottle of Techron. Use according to directions on the bottle. Well, almost. The bottle I buy treats 20 gallons of gasoline but I just dump the entire bottle into the fuel tank and fill the tank. I used seafoam in the tank The general rule is if one notices any improvement in the engine to run a 2nd bottle when the fuel level of the tank with the first bottle of Techron is low, below 1/4 tank. I will check on that this weekend . I'd suggest even if there is no improvement you still try a 2nd bottle. Afterwards arrange to change the oil and filter. Regarding oil: Be sure you are using an approved oil and one that has the right multi-viscosity grade for where you live and drive. 0w-40, or 5w-40 or even one 5w-50 are all available to you but only 0w-40 is suitable if you drive in cold (Porsche says -25C) weather. Yes I use Mobil 1 euro 0w40 only Be sure you don't run the oil too long. I have found 5K miles to be a good change interval for my usage. im guilty of that I was running the oild for 10k then chaging it. that's what the dealership told me. You can try two bottles of Swepco 502 oil improver. (Two because one just treats 5 quarts IIRC while the engine carries nearly twice that much oil.) Ok ill make a note and get it at the store for this weekend. Thank you for all the help!!!!

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The car has been like this for over 2 years, I have an onboard CEL reader and everytime the CEL comes on I know what it is and erase it and the car runs fine until the next time. thank you ill get that checked out.

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I did noticed the battery a little weak when cold starting but my electronic volt meter reads 14.0 when initial start (cold) then it drops to 13.8 when the RPM's go to normal idle. Ill get it checked out ty

Does this relate to when you have bought gasoline? We have had recent issues here in Los Angeles with bad gasoline causing cars to completely break down because of engine misfire. Just curious if it could be caused by buying gas at a contaminated source.

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Is not the gasoline and is funny you say that because I usually put 93 in it and sometimes it throws a code but on long trips I have put 89 and the CELL doesn't come on for weeks... lol And im in NC

If those shops did an accurate diagnosis then the issue isn't mechanical but electrical. You need to hook up Durametric or something advanced like it and drive around until the problem resurfaces again. Then see what the heck is actually happening.

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Does the dealership or the Indy have that Durametric?

What about the infamous ignition switch?

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replaced it with a new one already.

So in summary - This is a condition on Cylinder #2 only - This condition has been there for the past 2 yrs - Oil is M1 0w-40 and change every 10k - This condition is intermittent Since you have already replaced the coil and plug on that cylinder, they are unlikely to be the culprit. What's left? Cylinder, valves and injectors. Cylinder should give consistent issue. So that points to the valves and injectors. 10k oil change is very long. I would inspect the oil filter for debris, check the oil filter canister spring valve is intact. Also drop the oil pan and see what you find. Any magnetic drain plug? If everything looks good, your options seem to be injector replacement and then valves.

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A weak or failing battery can cause all sorts of issues. I've had a battery start the car with no issues and then 30 minutes later not have enough juice to do anything but click the solenoid. Replacement is a $200 "possible" fix - try it.

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I don't think you are even close...he said the car acts up when the code is present and acts normal when he clears the code....this is an electronic issue

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What electronic issue you have in mind? One that only manifests itself at idle? Op said "The car gets a wild hair in the tail pipe, I will get a CEL 0302 about 5 to 10 times a day but it only happens when im on a dead stop"

could that happened randomly like 1 day and not for another week or month? Yes. Unfortunately some problems are intermittent. Might add I put up with a P0430 from my Boxster for a few years, the only code the car ever produced during that time. Didn't change the fact a converter was bad -- and intermittently bad (loose in its housing). For months the error would not appear then it would. I found a change in gasoline -- switching from a discount brand to using Shell V-Power -- cut down on the frequency of the appearance of the CEL/error but didn't keep it at bay entirely.The knocking from the converter when cold and the buzzing from it when hot finally got to me and I replaced both exhaust manifolds. CEL remained dark. Error gone. Noises gone. I do that every morning I let it idle until the RPM drops The absence of any issues from a cold start and idle does not take a lifter (or two) off the list of possible explanations but it does drop the possibility down a place or two. Maybe. the only code ive had is P0320 for the past 2 yrs P0320 or P0302? Big difference. P0320: Ignition/Distributor Engine Speed Input Circuit. P0302: Cylinder 2 misfire detected. Are you checking for any pending error codes? I used seafoam in the tank I have no experience with Seafoam. I have experience with Techron and if something that one can add to the gas tank can help Techron is the stuff to use. Yes I use Mobil 1 euro 0w40 only That is a good oil in spite of its bad press. My Boxster collected most of its 309K+ miles running that stuff. If it was bad oil I'd know it. But I did and do change the oil every 5K miles. im guilty of that I was running the oild for 10k then chaging it. that's what the dealership told me. 10K miles is pushing it unless you spend a lot of time on the freeway. I've driven 5K miles over a week's time with fresh oil and then draining the oil afterwards and noting the oil still had some amber color to it. I might not have any hesitation in driving the car maybe another 5K miles -- on the highway -- but since my usage doesn't involve 10K mile road trips I change the oil every 5K miles. Ok ill make a note and get it at the store for this weekend. Just so you know. This is what I'm talking about : http://www.swepcolube.com/products/s...e-oil-improver My Porsche tech buddies tell me this helps quiet engines that are used infrequently but can help with reluctant VarioCam Plus high/low lift hardware, although I grant you that as a cause has not been determined. Doesn't cost much to try it. Shake the bottles good before you dump their contents in the oil filler tube.

maybe Raby is reading this and will offer some thoughts

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just swap injectors from 2-3 for example - and see if missfire follows injector ...

I had a crazy misfire problem my Indy spent a month trying to fix. After almost a full tear down, leak down, new spark plugs/tubes/coils and some other things they replaced the solenoid gasket for $10 and th misfires are gone. Been good ever since. But my misfires began at cylinder 1, not in the middle on cylinder 5.

Looks like mechanically you are fine. Like Ashai wrote next thing I would do replace injector. After that valves and springs but that's expensive. What about the possibility of a bad ECU? You reported loss of heating in seat and other irregularities. This could be an indication of a bad ECU and/or bad cables. and misfire is just one of the symptoms.

Also, please stop the red text!

In addition to the battery, you might consider checking the various ground connections. A week or partial ground will cause all sorts of gremlins to appear. Sorry, I don't have a clue where to start, but just speculating to start with the engine ground(s). Additionally, does P0302 appear in coincidence with any recent weather changes like a front coming through that dramatically changes the humidity? I've had MANY cases over 45 years where a VERY thin film of corrosion forms between the battery post and cable. Looks great, acts great (usually) but when a change in weather, it insulates the path *just* enough to raise havoc with your systems. Try cleaning the battery posts/cables.

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An injector might be the problem but it doesn't "sound" like an injector problem. However, my recommendation of the use of Techron is a tacit admission there might be an injector involved. Before I removed the camshaft cover and the cams to replace one or more lifters I'd be sure to eliminate the injector as a source of the problem. I'm not a fan of swapping them around. The less handling aging injectors get the better. I'd be tempted to just replace the suspected injector. I mean absent some high confidence diagnosis as to what's going on one is facing throwing parts at the behavior.

Do the other issues (seat heater etc) also happen at the exact same time only when the car is at idle? If so would that points to electrical, battery not putting out enough juice? Possibly a bad alternator not charging properly until you spin it up to 2K rpms or more. Sounds more electrical than mechanical to me.

Ok since the beginning of this post the car has been running fine no codes but again I'm sure is a matter of time before it happens again. As far as the injector it was replaced with a new one last year. And this problem has been you g on for 2+. I made a video I need to k ow how to upload it. Thank you again for all the help.

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What's a solenoid gasket? Is it near the muffler bearing?

I would look towards some type of electrical fault or grounding problem. Check your ground points carefully. I have seem intermitent gremlins like this be something as simple as a corroded wire/terminal on a grounding point. It's time consuming, but you have to be methodical and thorough.

https://youtu.be/wt_GTFoc_Ao

If its possible to connect a vacuum guage to your engine ,then when it misses if the guage fluctuates rapidly you have a engine problem ,if not its electrical.The dealer should have a data recorder that automatically records pre selected data that you can road test for a week or until the concern happens .They will want a deposit on the tester ,but they should be able to read the data to see whats happening when concern happens.The domestic manufacturers have the ability to do this.

Med, I would try injector swap...If it doesn't work, leave the car alone. Your car is ahead of 95 percent of 996s on mileage and this is intermittent. It sounds like an electrical issue, something that flooded car would experience. One wire shorting or ECU getting some silly reading will have you chasing **** for a long time.

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In his case (unless there are other codes present), the blinking MIL is warning about potential damage to the emissions control system due to the presence of unburned fuel. If this was my car, and I was certain (after scanning the codes w/ my phone) that the misfire is the only fault logged, I wouldn't bother with a tow. I'm sure I'll get torched for suggesting that you might choose to NOT flatbed your car somewhere. The control freak in me has the need to know WHY the light is flashing. Please consider the context before lighting me up. If my elderly neighbor called me and said her MIL was blinking, I'd tell her to call AAA...but if it was my wife, I'd troubleshoot it first. Sending a car on a tow truck with an undiagnosed issue to a dealership can turn expensive fast. I agree. I despise leaving issues unresolved, but at some point you have to balance time and money against the irritation caused by an intermittent misfire. My Corvette has a 15-year-old oil leak. I tried to diagnose and failed. I had my indie take a look; he shrugged and told me it leaks less than other C4's, but he'd be happy to dig into it and try to track it down. However, he doesn't really want to spend his time looking for a drip when he could be test-driving the Corvette he was finishing supercharging, and I don't really want to fund a $150/hr fishing expedition.

Please keep posting in RED it is easier to follow.

A good check would be to get one of those infrared thermometers and point it at each exhaust port when it's acting up. Yes it requires you to get under the car when you least expect it, but your misfiring cylinder will be significantly cooler than the others. This could help pin point the problem

Interesting that your voltage dips as soon as the cel pops up. I see that the rpm drops also but the car is still running so wouldn't expect that steep of a drop. Then when you increase rpm the cel goes away as the voltage increases. Alternator/regulator bad or introducing A/C spike?? Alternator connections clean, emphasis the ground? Have you tried a clamp on ammeter to see if there is a current draw spike concurrent with the cell activation?

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Interesting how the voltage is bouncing all over the place. That seems very odd to me, on my 99, the meter never moves.

Just to recap: P0302 is a misfire at cylinder 2. Are there any other codes? Any pending codes? Any "permanent" codes? (These can only be "erased" by the DME after so many warm up cycles with the error condition no longer present.) What is the freeze frame error code and the freeze frame data? Having a hard time envisioning a bad injector causing this behavior. I don't wish to belabor this point but at idle the low intake valve lift mode is activated and if even one intake lifter fails to switch over the cylinder will misfire. When you raise RPMs low lift is disabled and high lift is enabled. Since at least one lifter is "stuck" in high lift mode its mode agrees with all the other lifters and the misfire goes away. Just thinking out loud, so to speak (well, type), a tech with the proper Porsche diagnostic computer could monitor when the switch from high lift to low lift and back again takes place. He could then with the engine ready to generate the misfire monitor misfire counts and the low lift/high lift setting and see if there is any correlation between misfire counts increasing (which if they get high enough triggers a CEL) and the low lift mode being activated and then raising RPMs while continuing to monitor misfire counts and seeing the misfire counts dropping below the CEL trigger threshold concurrent with high lift mode becoming active. BTW, the slight change in the voltage meter reading is I believe an artifact of the engine RPMs varying due to the cylinder misfiring and the engine losing some RPMs. Additionally any vacuum gage reading while it would change during this time would also be an artifact arising from the engine experiencing some RPMs variability during the misfire event.

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I would investigate this one in more detail.

ok guys again thank you all for the great job I did go the cheaper rout and pour a can of Techron into the gas tank and follow the steps as someone told me in the forum. the code hasn't come back at all I"m in my second tank of gas and I pour 1/2 of a bottle and the car is running great no hesitation or codes. now I'm definitely confused lol anyone else have any input on this.

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Thank you!!!

Macster the magician!

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Too soon to know. Just continue to drive the car. 'course, if the engine acts up starts to run rough, anything out of the ordinary, shut off the engine ASAP and get the car to a qualified tech for a professional's diagnosis. But if you continue to drive the car if the Techron can help it will help. If it does help and the error stays away this suggests the problem is (well, was) with a "dirty" injector, valve (intake valve most likely) or combustion chamber chamber deposits. Less likely but still possible is dirty (with deposits) O2 sensors. (I don't know if I mentioned this but just a couple of tanks of gasoline after I switch my Boxster over from Shell V-Power to Chevron the engine was running remarkably better. That Techron can work a minor miracle.) If the misfire comes back well, you have done about all you can without special tools and training. Here's hoping it stays away.

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The voltage drops because the engine rpms also drops when the missfire happens (the engine start to run only on 5 cylinder). The alternator needs a certain amount of rpm to produce the required voltage. Too low idle will produce low voltage.

Well Guys so far so good!!!! I have been through 3 full tanks of gas and NO Cel..... I keep a bottle of techron in the car Just incase... I did forget to mention when I was having issues with the car and it will act up and throw a cel of misfire #2, while the car was running I would turn the car off and back on really fast and the car would stop acting and idle perfectly... I know I will catch hell for doing that.... lol

well as expected the cel came back....

But, it took a lot longer right? Something you did had a positive effect...

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What are the codes? And obtain the codes then and there at the time the CEL appears. Be sure to read any pending codes. That the problem corrects when the engine turned off then back on again -- as you mentioned in a previous post -- does suggest a possible "electrical" problem. One that comes to mind -- and one I dealt with in my Boxster -- is a bad VarioCam solenoid. The engine was running poorly, idle going up and down -- but no CEL but a pending code (P1341 IIRC). After checking for codes and reading the pending code I shut off the engine then after a short time restarted the engine and the engine was just fine and remained fine for the 30 mile drive home. The next day at the dealer when I mentioned to the tech how the fuel trim was going rail to rail the tech told me misfires can result from this solenoid (or actuator) failure as the DME adjusts the fueling in an attempt to get the #2 O2 voltage readings it expects but because the VarioCam isn't working right it never will get the readings and it goes too far and misfires can be the result. That just one cylinder misfires is not uncommon. There are differences between cylinders and it could be the #2 cylinder is the most sensitive to incorrect fueling of the 3 cylinders of the bank affected. Also, the above doesn't mean I have abandoned the idea the low/high lift feature of one or both #2 cylinder intake lifters is acting up. Unfortunately the above might read like I'm piling on one possible explanation for the untoward engine behavior after another but I have to stress at some point some diagnosis is going to have to be done to get to the bottom of this. Either you will have to do this or qualified/experienced tech. Sure, it would be just great is Techron fixed the problem -- I was certainly hoping it would -- or something equally easy to do but sometimes that just isn't in the cards.

Sometimes MAF quirks can register with respect to a given cylinder. Easy enought to pop out and clean, and replace, if necessary (apologies if this already has been done or mentioned).

well Gents, I went ahead and replaced all the coils and sparkplugs. changed the oil and checked all fluids as soon as I turned the car back on the CEL came back now is every time I start the car and come to a complete stop i.e. idle. Once I get over 2k rpms the CEL goes away, once on the HWY the car runs PERFECT.

Did you change your MAF?

no I didnt

Idle control valve sticking maybe?

1) Invest in Durametric and start logging the various parameters. Then use the engine activations to see if you can create the error code (such as using the VarioCam activation on Bank 1). 2) Unplug the MAF, clear the code(s) and run the engine. Take a drive. Performance will be down as the DME will default to "no feedback from MAF" setting, but it would not hurt to try. Clean the MAF sensor. 3) You said you changed the spark plug and coil on #2 (well you did all of them). What was the condition of the #2 spark plug? Reading the plugs will tell you a lot.

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#1. I have an onboard Cel Reader #2. I will try it on my way home and unplug the MAF #3. Yes I replaced them all and the coils too, the condition of the #2 was darker than the rest.

A recurrent error code P0302 (misfire on cylinder 2), and the darker spark plug (oily perhaps?), suggest something is wrong with cylinder 2. You have done the right things, now it is time to do a compression check, leak down test and boroscope cylinder 2. It could be a stuck lifter or valve seat problem. Not all that uncommon, but only those checks/tests will provide you with your next step.

you need durametric to activate stuff, a code reader will....tell you the code. that's it. if one plug is darker than the rest, i would assume oil or fuel is getting to it.

Do not assume that the cylinder identified as having a misfire by the code is the cylinder that actually has the misfire. It may be the adjacent cylinder that is the root cause. After I typed that I started thinking that the sensors could be miswired too, like sparkplug wires going to the wrong plugs.

I'll take a swipe. I would recommend not throwing any parts at it anymore. Get something like this: Amazon Amazon Which has recording capability. Connect the probe to the switching side of the #4 injector, and set the trigger to capture the injector pulse. You will have to fiddle with the settings for a while to get a good picture of the waveform. Once you get a good capture of the #4 injector pulse, save to the buffer. This will be your reference. Now move to the #2 injector. Run the car, and induce the failure. Capture this pulse, and then use the compare function to look at both waveforms. They should look identical. I mean they should look exactly the same, as they use the same pulse generator. If they don't match exactly, come back and share the results with a picture. If they are exactly the same when the problem is induced, I would then swap injectors(mentioned before) with #4 cyl and clear the codes, disconnect the bat for 10 min, then test again. edit, I found an image online. Likely will look similar. Takes a bit to set up the scope, but make it look like this with the timebase, and set the voltage range a bit lower to capture more of the pulse transient.

ok its been 1 days and the cel hasn't come back....

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What was the fix?

well is back so far the car has been to a total of 3 indys and 2 certifies Porsche dealerships and still nothing, everything that everyone has said its been done, coils, injectors, sparkplugs, leak check, compression test... etc etc im going crazy!!!!!!

that's sucks man. feel your pain.

I may have missed it but has anything been done to try to verify if one or more valves are stuck? Any leak down test?

he mentioned above they did both leak down and compression checks.

Intermittent electric issues in cars are most often caused by bad grounds. I'd guess this injectors ground wire isn't all that great. I'd check the injector harness really well and engine grounds, and injector control module or ECU grounds depending on where the injector module is located. Seat heater could be a ground too. European cars just tend to have more ground issues than US built autos too. I thought only Europeans put modules in weird places too then I bought my first Corvette.... My Corvette that is 26 years old is having lots of electrical gremlins too. I've rebuild the instrument display, now I'm going to rebuild the A/C control module and replace the IC chip for the tachometer soon too. As cars age wiring and grounds become less effective through weathering, wear and vibration.

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I see. How about lifter tests on PIWIS or PST2?

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i am just getting into this thread, but believe AHSAI is on to it. I also had this happen to me. The problem with most Indy's and even dealers is they have not poked their heads into these engines. I had to explain to the Indy how the lifters in these cars work because they are actually counter intuitive, the outer lifter body moves past the inner at low lift and locks together at high lift. I would bet a steak dinner that is your issue. Let me me see if I can guess your symptoms. The CEL is seemingly random. It will occur as you come back down to idle after going over 3000rpm. The CEL will seemingly clear itself at times and run fine. The dip in the alternator is probably due to momentary loss in RPMs. Also the compression test will come back fine if the lifter is not locked in the high lift position. May even come back ok in the high lift position as well as it will still seal. The problem is that at low RPM in high lift mode the velocity of the intake charge is not ideal and leads to a misfire, computer shuts down the cylinder. Let it us know if we're right.

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I thought I had commented on this problem before, was this in another thread? Anyway I agree with ChicagoSpeed it has the exact symptoms of the sticking lifter of the two-stage lifters on the Vario-Cam Plus engines. The Plus part is the two-stage high/low lifters . I worked at the Porsche dealership for a decade before I retired and have seen this many times.I have seen "expert" Indies on here comment that these lifters never give problems, but I beg to differ. While the Indies see more M96 explosions from IMS , rod bolts, dropped sleeves, D-chunk, at the dealers ship these things are somewhat rare, probably because most the ones we saw were under warranty, when out of warranty they didn't come in with an obvious blown engine unless it was warranty,but we see lots of intermittent problems and the sticking lifters are very common.

I was reading on another thread and someone had the same issue as I did and mentioned about draining 2 qts of oil and replacing them with ATF to loosen up any junk that might be causing this. someone did it and the car has been 400 + miles w/o any symptoms.

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Do not do that, changing a lifter is relatively simple. Relatively for someone who knows what they are doing. In my case my lifter had mechanically scored and slightly mushroomed to where it mechanically stuck in a high lift position. No snake oil would have fixed it.

My apologies Porschetech I did not read through the whole thread.

Timing

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No. You haven't put a scope on the offending injector pulse wire and compared to other cyl.

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I have the records on the car and the dealership did that, they even installed a new injector and still nothing. again the car has been to 5 different techs places.

I know whats wrong with it.. Throw it on a truck and ship it on down. If I can't repair it- you don't pay me. I haven't had one yet that I couldn't repair, but some have taken months to figure out. That said, within one hour I'll tell you if the engine has a mechanical issue with two sets of data being collected. To clarify any comments I have made here about lifters: Lifters can give issues with these engines, but when they do so they typically do not make "noise" that is usually associated with a bad lifter. Those noises are almost always misdiagnosed as a lifter issue, when they are actually cylinder issues at early onset. My comments about lifters not giving problems were obviously perceived differently than I intended by some members of this board. I have had two lifter issues in the past month, neither made noise, and one of those came from a bad set of genuine Porsche lifters right out of the box. In short, the things that are usually "lifter problems" with other engines don't show up the same way with an M96/ M97 engine.

Looks like a very good offer to me!! Better than continuing to shop it around.

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Now that is an offer I would not hesitate one second to take! Yeah Jake!

At this point, I'd take Jake up on his offer, you have nothing to lose!

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I do business the way my grandfather did 100 years ago. Except from a newspaper in Ft. Myers Florida from 1912.

Thank you for the offer I will see about taking time off and the cost to ship. you are about 4 to 5 hours away.

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We ship so many Porsches that I've started a separate division here to handle shipping brokerage and have a dedicated employee to handle this. I can have Randy at P- Car shipping contact you. Our best shipper runs the NC, SC route with a single car enclosed trailer. Jeff never disappoints with his services!

You need to connect a vacuum guage to manifold vacuum ,set it up inside cabin so you can monitor it.When the miss occurs ,If the guage fluctuates rapidly its mechanical.If the guage stays steady its electrical.The reason your indy and dealer techs had no answer for you is because the miss fire did not occur when they were testing it.You need to monitor the vacuum when the miss occurs.I worked for ford dealer for 32 years ,a senior master in gas and diesel and alt fuels.I have seen concerns like this many times.You want to do non invasive tests first.This is your most basic test that will give you a direction to diagnose the concern .You already know which cyl it is.Its not a valve timing problem because that would affect half the cylinders.One of hardest concerns to diagnose erratic problems ,even with a code generated.Save yourself time and money do this simple test before going into invasive diagnostics.If its elec perform diagnostics per shop manual.I have set up diag equpt set to auto record selected data ,have the customer drive it until concern happens,then download and read data.

i had a cyl 6 misfire that would only occur at idle or low RPM's. i had a p306 misfire code and a camshaft deviation bank 2 code (p1342 if i remember correctly) the codes would pop up at different times. I replaced the lifters and camshaft tensioner/pads and the misfire hasn't returned nor has the deviation code.

<< Wondering what the prognosis is on the OP's car??

Well Guys the 911 is finally Fixed... woohoo!!!! I went ahead and parked the car for several months in order to figure out what I was going to do with the 911, so early this summer I took my 1973 Mazda Rx2 to a cars and coffee, and there was this guy with a Bad a$$ 911TT, I approached him and explained the problem with my 911, he told me that he can figure out the problem, so after talking about his 911TT and my Mazda Rx2, I found out he is the owner of HBI auto in Mocksville NC, They specialize in Porsche, Lamborghini and Ferraris. I agree to let him take my 911, the next day he came up to my house with an enclosed trailer, we loaded up my 911. About a moth later he called me and told me he found the problem, I was super excited, so I agree to have him fix the issue and it was 2 bad lifters in Cyl #2. So yes Flat6 Innovations was correct. Once the 911 was completed and running like a 911 40th AE is supposed to he delivered the 911 back to my house at no cost for the pickup and delivery. I drive my 911 everyday and everywhere I go. Im HAPPY !!!! Thank you to Billy @ HBI Auto in Mocksville NC https://hbiauto.com/

Awesome! What did the repair cost?

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lol lets just say I got the PCA discount and I was extremely happy with the results.

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So glad for you! I also have my 911 back running super, my problem was coils/plugs. I also share your day of joy!

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Trust me is an amazing feeling being able to get back in my 911. Good to hear yours is back too!!!!!!

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Flat 6 Innovations is always right. Glad you got it fixed!

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Flat 6 Innovations is always right, Yes they are!!!! But HBI was a lot closer.....

I hope you educate all the other techs that touched your car and took your money previously.

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Trust me at the next PCA meeting I sure will !!!!!! lol

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Why does this sound so whinny? Like an airplane engine revving up. Sounds like a vacuum leak to me?..

Thanks for coming back after all of this time to update the thread, Medevack1. Glad this is behind you now.

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I heard that sound once and only once a few days ago. Not sure what it was though, no codes or check engine light.

The noise is coming through the speakers from the aftermarket double din radio the previous owner had installed.