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Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHBig problem with ims, I think
Leading reported evidence
Check compression
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
Checked compression on number six and there was zero.
Leading evidence: 'Check compression' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'former given the work done' (1 discussions; 0 report identifying it and 1 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Check cams' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suspected cause
It's likely the former given the work done on it hence Schnell's suggestion of checking the cams for proper timing.
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I dropped the motor out of my car because I thought the ims went out. it would not start and had no compression. I got the motor out and was removing the exhaust while my brother in law removed the clutch and flywheel Then I heard him say the ims is bearing is still good. That's when I realized he had removed the ims flange and the motor is not on tdc on bank 1. now the ims shaft is over to one side. I tried removing the tensioner but that didn't let it center back up. I'm afraid to try and time it now.
What should I do know?
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Good work on dropping the engine.
As for your issue, fear not this happened in another rebuild thread i'm not sure how it was resolved but it wasn't gave over. I'll try and find the thread for you
A quick google search turned up a fair bit:
https://www.google.com.au/search?q=r...hrome&ie=UTF-8
However if your car has no compression and wont start there might be bigger issues than the IMS.
The engine builders on here will chime in shortly i'm sure but there is a high possibility you'll need it rebuilt.
Can start with the simple things that will assist:
Year, mileage, transmission etc.
And we need the history. The engine ran fine before you dropped it ? So why are you worried about compression now? Try a blowby test? Turn (safely!) the engine over until 5 and then 6 are BDC .That would usually be the worst situation if the bores are oval.
But before all that we need the whole story in one Post including codes ,filter disection,sump plate contents otherwise we'll be just spinning our bearings.
You screwed this up.
The tensioner must be removed BEFORE the IMS Flange is removed. You must also have the engine at TDC and the crank locked before the flange is removed. Now the engine must be re- timed as it appears that you didn't do either of these things.
Like I say in my classes, the biggest mistakes are made with this procedure, in the first 5 minutes.
as I said I the post I wasn't going to pull the flange off until I got it on tdc and the cams locked. My brother in law pulled it off before I had a chance to get it ready.
As for the motor before removal it was running great no issues what so ever. I went to start it one day and nothing, just turns over. I checked the spark and it was firing. Checked compression on number six and there was zero. So I new the motor would have to come out. I figured the Ims had failed but the bearing looks to be fine. Is there a way to get the flange back on so I can time it?
My guess is that to get the flange back on you need to remove the two lower chain tensioners. But since you've yet to discover the problem, why bother at this point? I'd think you should just continue to disassemble until you get to the culprit then decide a course of action.
There is an expert somewhat near you.He posts on Renntech as Porschetech3 .He may have a referral for you. The M96 is a peculiar piece of engineering that should be worked on by a specialist ,not a generalist.
I bit the bullet and carried the motor to martins classic cars in Huntsville AL. About all they work on is Porsche. There was a lot of cool 911's and 956's there getting work done. I just don't have time to work on it very much. I believe that I could have figured it out with the help from you guys but if I want to enjoy driving it this year I needed to get professional help. Thank guys I'll keep you updated.
Nothing to be ashamed of. It's not rocket science, but there is some alchemy/dark arts involved; taking it to someone who knows the tricks is a LOT faster than leaving it disassembled until you accumulate the knowledge you need to put it back together with some expectation of it running.
I could use a LOT of professional help, but that's a story for RLOT.
The mechanic called and told me he couldn't find anything wrong with the motor so he installed my eps Ims bearing and told me I could come pick it up. I can't figure out why I wasn't reading any compression on number six cylinder. May be my gauge is bad. Now I'll have to figure out why it wouldn't start.
I ordered new water pump , aos, oil pressure unit and plugs while I have the engine out. Anything else I should do while motor is out?
Clutch , throw out bearing , flywheel , pressure plate and rms only has 2000 miles on it.
I don't know how confident you are with your shop but if you want to do some sanity checks yourself before reinstalling the engine, this is a great tool
Amazon
Amazon
Just remove all the spark plugs and attach the tool to the cyl #1 spark plug hole. Turn the engine (clockwise only) until you hear the whistle. The sound should stop close to the tdc mark on the crank pulley. Then put the tool in cyl 6 and repeat. The tdc of #6 should be at 120 degrees after #1. Follow the firing order(1-6-2-4-3-5) to check the remaining cylinders every 120 degrees.
This test will confirm you have compression in the cylinders and the timing is in general correct.
You can also remove the green cam plugs to visually check if the timing is perfect on both banks. You will need to replace those with new plugs afterwards.
Ok, I got the motor back in after having the ims replaced and it fired right up. But there is a knocking sound coming from the bank 1 side that wasn't there before and the check engine light came on. The code that came up was p1340 bank 1 timing out timing sensor. What tha hell? Is that going to be expensive to fix?
Pop out the green plugs for the exhaust and Inlet cam on Bank 1 - do a visual check of timing at TDC.
Search for the long thread started by Insite for details
DO NOT DRIVE IT ! until you have done the Timing check
http://986forum.com/forums/performan...iming-m96.html
https://www.renntech.org/forums/topi.../?_fromLogin=1
No, it's the bank 1 timing, or the variocam actuator. The sensors have their own codes. It's likely the former given the work done on it hence Schnell's suggestion of checking the cams for proper timing.
Also check out this thread:
https://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/34821-ims-replaced-now-throwing-p1340-and-p1341/
Lots of missing puzzle pieces here..
Was the old bearing failing?
Were the cams and crank locked properly during the IMSR procedure?
This whole scenario seems a little too haphazard for my liking. Lots of things could have happened here.
yes the Ims was installed properly by an Indy. I thought my original problem was Ims failure at start up. Turns out the Ims was fine.
It would not start and it sounded like it had jumped time while it was turning over. That's why I dropped the engine. The Indy couldn't find any problems with the timing so he installed the new Ims and I reinstalled the engine and it started right up but is making a slight knocking sound from bank 1 side and engine code was p1340.
So he didn't find the problem and just put it back together? The "smoking gun" has to be found, else something simply does not go back together... It comes further apart till it is found.
It sounds to me like the problem you had originally, is the same problem you have now, with a slightly different symptom.
That doesn't mean anything.... I pluck cars from other shops all the time that have no clue and "all they do is work on Porsche". They attend my classes, and in general the enthusiasts on this forum are more attentive than they are during my enthusiast classes.
This is especially true if they do a ton of Aircooled Porsche work. Air and water mix and evaporate! Nothing is the same between them.
There's no one else around here close but a dealer and I've heard good and bad things about them. Which would be the better choice, the indy or the dealer?
Call FSI and arrange a pickup - let the pros fix it or at least tell you definitively what's wrong - North Alabama's not that far from Cleveland, Georgia.
Got it back Thursday. He set the timing on bank 1 and now it's running smooth and quite now. He said it must have happened when my brother in law removed the ims flange before I had it on tdc and locked down.
