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YOUR RESEARCHBank 2 Engine Issues - Hivemind Request
Reported or suspected cause
rectified
Reported cause
No successful repair reported for this finding.
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0
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0
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Reported cause · Original poster
I have no desire to repeat whatever happened so yes, I'll have whatever the root cause is rectified.
Leading evidence: 'rectified' (1 discussions report identifying this cause; no attributable repair resolution). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'rectified' (1 discussions; 1 report identifying it and 0 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Check fuel pressure' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I checked my records and the mechanic replaced the coil packs along with the plugs.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I checked my records and the mechanic replaced the coil packs along with the plugs.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
Replaced the fuel pump this weekend and it�s running great again with no CEL.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
They did replace the coil packs when they replaced the plugs.
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Suggestion
In additions to the coil packs, its a good time to replace the fuel injectors, AOS with the UAOS, water pump, go to a low temp thermostadt, might as well look over the cooling and power steering bits and pieces.
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21 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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Some background. I purchased a 1999 996.1 with 45k miles in April. It's currently just over 50k. After I purchased it, I had a significant amount of deferred maintenance performed: IMS, new clutch and transmission assembly, spark plugs, starter, brakes and rotors, et cetera. I've driven for nearly 30 years and it's the most fun and most engaging experience I've had.
Until August. I was running on nearly fumes and almost to a gas station. The check engine light started flashing (it was on before�oxygen code�with no effect on driving). I lost what seemed to be most of the power from the engine. I pulled over, parked, and haven't driven it since. When I parked the car, I noticed a burning smell. It was not oil or rubber�it was a different burning smell with which I'm not familiar.
My ODB read cylinders 4, 5, 6 misfires and oxygen. Two weeks ago, I finally had it towed to my Porsche-specific independent mechanic. He noted the engine was running very, very rough. His ODB read cylinder 4, 5, and 6 cylinder misfires with cylinder damage. They weren't able to diagnose with the engine in the car, so it's currently out of the engine bay. They've scoped all six cylinders and all are pristine. Whatever is going on is internal. We're now to the point where, to fix, they'll have to disassemble the engine. (Or, I drop a different engine in. Yes, I know the risks of that.)
Hence my question: I'm trying to keep repair costs down while I'm switch jobs. Has anyone faced a similar situation before? What is the problem most likely to be? I trust my mechanic, but it would be nice if I could be like, "[Mechanic], it may be [x] issue. Can you check that?"
Thanks in advance.
Geezus .....I hate to say this,but all the good opportunity to gain valuable information on the engine through thorough Testing is now lost ...
Never ever remove a running engine for diagnosis
until you are sure of what you are looking for !!!
Dissembling an engine to "inspect" involves 40+ man-hours of labor... and always ends in a full rebuild + parts and "while you're in there's".....$$$
Spending more time Testing and Trouble-Shooting on the running engine is not money waisted .....
Sorry my friend but you are now in tough spot...... I hope your Mechanic knows more than he is telling you ...
Probably moot at this point, but, did you replace the ignition coils when doing the spark plugs? Sounds strange that the entire Bank 2 would go out. I would look for a commonality, but with the engine out again kind of moot.
Yes, I experienced the same problem. Was driving my 996 to get gas and it started to rain. Started getting the flashing CEL and pulled in and filled it up with gas. Started the car and limped it home. Scanned the car and was getting mostly P0300 (P0304 thru 6) codes for bank#2. Think I might have gotten a O2 code too, but can't remember. The next day, I started it up and it ran fine and CEL turned off. But I didn't overlook the problem. The rain+misfires was the tell tale sign of cracked coil packs. Noticed they were the original factory coil packs. Changed them out with Beru OE packs and all it good again.
Plugs and coils are cheap. If it was my car, I'd replace them all and get a second opinion if the problem persists. Seems excessive to have to remove the engine in this case without further diagnosis.
Yeah, my bet is on ignition coils.
In additions to the coil packs, its a good time to replace the fuel injectors, AOS with the UAOS, water pump, go to a low temp thermostadt, might as well look over the cooling and power steering bits and pieces. They will eventually spring a leak. For sure, change the oil cooler and engine mounts as well.
Also, find yourself a new indy. They should have know to check this. Common issue.
That�s what I get for basically being my first post.
I checked my records and the mechanic replaced the coil packs along with the plugs. I am (quite obviously) not a mechanic but I suspect with new coil packs it isn�t the coil packs.
I�m not going to disclose the shop here, but it is of some repute. (It�s not a single guy.) They also ran numerous tests before removing the engine, as they didn�t want to run up costs. And I strongly suspect that if it�s an issue they could have diagnosed with the engine in, they will waive the costs of taking the engine out.
Its "very very" good to know they did numerous Tests before removing the engine ...
The "results" of those Tests "should" give them a very good idea of what's wrong and where to look, the removal of the engine and any disassembly will be just to "confirm"....
Just to let you know how these types of failures, diagnostics, and repairs usually go ...
The Shop will likely charge you for each of the numerous Tests ( and they should give you the Test Results) ,and will charge you for the engine removal to confirm ...
Did they give you the results of the numerous Tests ?
Did they share with you the Hypothesis ?
1) When they scoped your cylinders, did they do a leak down?
2) You didn't mention any noises outside of riough running, did they check fuel pressure to the bank?
3) Someone mentioned checking timing... Was that done?
4) Did they drain oil and examine for particulate?
5) With the Durametric they can observe all kinds of live values tied to fuel trims both short and long, MAF readings at idle and at RPM, O2, health pre and post cats. Did they do any of those diagnostics?
6) This sounds and feels electrical or timing related but could be fuel related as well.
MAF's can be sporadic. You also mentioned your CEL was on prior... Are you sure it was same code before it started flashing and going into limp mode?
Always buy quality on electrical components...
Like many other already said, pulling engine should be last resort, but once it's out, spend the money to address all the things mentioned. You will reduce labor costs since you're already engine out and there are things which are pitas trying to replace with engine in.
No one is talking about the "running out of gas" part. The fuel pump uses the fuel to stay cool, hence never running it under quarter of a tank even though most of us do. I would hope they did a fuel pump test before pulling the motor. Someone is about to have way more money into a car than it's worth.....good luck
I second this. Maybe the fuel pump is at least part of the problem. The pump on my �99 C2 slowly started failing recently. Began to notice a whining sound coming from the front end. It seemed to emanate from the wheel wells and correlate with a hot engine. A review of rennlist posts led me to think it was just the high speed radiator fan. Then about an hour from the end of a long trip, the car began to hesitate at WOT. By the time we arrived home the CEL was on (but not flashing) and I could barely press the accelerator without losing power and skipping. Durametric scan showed it tripped O2 sensing range codes for both banks. Replaced the fuel pump this weekend and it�s running great again with no CEL.
I try to do this with all the cars/boats/lawn equipment to avoid sucking up the crap at the bottom of the tank!
I'm going to jinx myself.
I have a boat a bought brand new in 2003. Has never had a carb rebuild! I always keep it topped up.
Bumping this back up. I have a call in with my mechanic tomorrow or Friday, but he confirms they tested the fuel pump, bank 2 core wire, and variocam, and those tested out good. He says whatever it is is purely a mechanical failure. I'm raising the rest of your (is in everyone's) questions on the call.
That still doesn't tell the full story, root cause ...A bent valve usually means the cam timing was out of sync due to a failed timing chain, or an IMSB or the scavenge pump is locked up.....
Just a little more Forensic Analysis needed to determine the "Root Cause" ...
I assume they have the heads off..? What is the shops recommendation...?
Might be a good idea to find out how/what bent the valve as they don't bend themselves without interference from some other part.
Wouldn't want to have this happen again as soon as the valve is fixed, so the reason the valve bent is critical for you engines future health...
jmo
