Help with locking camshaft

A couple of questions to clarify my understanding of the process to lock the camshaft on a 996.2 coupe. I have a small oil leak from bank 1 chain tensioner and intend to replace the crush washer and o 0-ring (so obviously engine and tranny still in the car). I have the LN pro tool set and reading their instructions left me confused at first but I think I get it now. I need to lock the cylinder bank on the drivers side of the car (bank 1). The lower green plug on this bank is towards the rear of the car (about in the area above the thermostat). Can someone confirm the plug I'm removing is this lower plug on that bank at the rear of the car (so bank 1)? Also, could someone please tell me he size of bolt used for locking the tool in place? I know I read it somewhere but haven't found it again. When I first read the LN instructions, I thought they were saying that you would see the lower plug to the right of the flywheel when facing the flywheel. I'm prettty sure the reference "to the right" was just describing the bank you are locking and not how to find the plug. I also understand to lock the crank at TDC first, I left that step out.

Yes, you've got it. You need to use the right tool (the 5 cam and 3 cam use a different tool). The bolt isn't special, it just holds the tool in place while you do the work, it isn't under tension. I seem to recall that it is a typical 10mm head, 6mm thread bolt, you probably have dozens floating around in the shop.

What year, if it's a 5 chain just lock the crank at TDC then pull the tensioner, no need to lock cams!! Might be worth replacing the tensioner too ok

Its the 3 chain (996.2 year 2004). In the LN tool set there is a piece for locking 1 or both openings on the bank. Their procedure however says its only necessary to lock 1. Maybe the provide the double sided piece to allow users to lock both if they feel like it? I don't see any reference in their instructions for differentiating at this point of the procedure between 3 and 5 chain although they do mention somewhere that some people insist on locking both no matter what. I'm just taking out the tensioner not replacing the IMS, if that sways someones opinion.

My cam lock tool fit snug in the slots and I didn't need to use a screw as it was broken off (I did drill and tap it after the fact)

808Bill, I assume by the plural "slots" that you used the double sided one as opposed to just locking the lower? I was going to call LN to make sure I understand their instructions correctly that you only need to lock the lower on a 3 chain.

As CDS suggested, i found a bolt laying around the shop that fits. There's very little room to get my hands up there let alone see inside the cam opening but it seems like it will be pretty straight forward by doing it by feel.

Correct, double sided with crank pinned.

I just did this and I used the tool that locks both the upper and lower cam. Removed the plugs facing the rear of the car as you stated, just above the thermostat. On my first rotation to TDC the tool almos fit but it was not perfectly aligned, I had to rotate one more revolution then the tool fitted perfectly. BTW, it made it easier to go past TDC by a few degrees install the tool and then rotate the crank back and lock it.

Your better locking both sides and the crank, basically on the three chain you have one small ims chain then two big chains going from the ims ( one front and one rear ) going up to the heads , this chain goes over one then the other cam sprockets then back down whereas the five chain one goes over one sprocket for the exhaust cam then back down with another small chain linking to the inlet cam inside the head, hence there tends to be more slack on the big chains for the later three chain engine and more chance of a timing slip, that's why you need to lock the cams on the three chain and on the five chain you can just get away with locking the crank at TDC, if you get me , phew!!

Thanks everyone! Wish I had smaller hands sometimes as that's pretty tight to access. One more question, when replacing the green plugs, is any type of sealant used or just clean the opening and insert plastic plug?

No sealant. Push or tap them in dry.

if you are working on just bank 1, I think locking the crank shaft and the lower cam of bank 1 is enough.

For those that said to lock top and bottom, are you sure this is for the 3 chain (2004 C2)? The double sided tool doesn't seem to fit. The top blade is shorter and doesn't even reach the slot (as far as I can tell as the engine is in the car and its hard to see). The one sided tool fits snugly in the bottom cam opening and the bolt hole lines up perfect. Is the double sided tool for the 5 chain (it also has wider blades which don't seem to fit the slot)?

What tool are you using, got a link?

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I had the same situation (07 engine so 3 chain) I had to rotate the engine one more time, it was not at the correct tdc, also had to go a bit past tdc, then both sides of the tool fit perfectly. After the cam tool was in I rotated the crank back to tdc and locked it. The cam lock tool fits very snugly but when both cams are lined up it just slides in with minimal force.

Thanks for the input everyone. I moved the crank slightly from TDC a few times back and forth and finally found the sweet spot for it to fit right in. Touch to see and do with the engine in the car. Anyone everything started up fine all to have the clutch start slipping on the test drive! I only have 70K miles on the car so seem early to have the clutch worn so soon but who knows how proficient the prior owner was with a manual (I've driven it 25K of those miles). Looks like it may be time to drop the tranny and replace the clutch and IMS. Haven't driven it much so still diagnosing but from what I know, the only reason for the clutch to slip is its worn out or not engaging properly

60K (some shorter/longer) is what the recommended clutch change should be, Also the dual mass flywheel every other clutch change if I recall.