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Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHCheck Engine Light and loud rumbling
Leading reported evidence
Check before i head
Suggestion or failed attempt
No successful repair reported for this finding.
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0
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1
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Suggestion · Original poster
Any theory or easy thing to check before I head to shop?
Leading evidence: 'Check before i head' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check before i head' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion
That's an easy thing to check before you have the car towed.
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Suggestion
Drain the oil, drop and inspect the sump and cut open your oil filter for inspection.
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Suggestion
Most people replace them whenever they change the plugs.
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Hi,
Was cruising in the 2000 996 when check engine light started flashing and loud rumbling sound on acceleration in every gear. No unusual sound at idle.
Any theory or easy thing to check before I head to shop?
thank you
You kept driving?
DON'T
start it again and make sure your shop does not start it either!
Drain the oil, drop and inspect the sump and cut open your oil filter for inspection. Have the codes read and report back.
Sorry but this is not good for you.
Hi.
I had codes read. Came up with a 0304 which is a misfire at 4th cylinder.
The CEL seems sporadic. Flashes....turns off....flashes again.
Does this still sound like gloom and doom?
Should I try some Seafoam before I head over to the shop?
Thanks!
That's an easy thing to check before you have the car towed. It could even be a loose or bad coil wire. And as everyone has said, don't start it until you know what the issue is.
Haha, I guess this is the result of years of IMS terrorism? :P The knee-jerk to every little problem on here is the assumption that the engine will soon disintegrate into 1000 little bits.
A rumble is more often than not a fueling or ignition related, as OP said it's only on acceleration. Discarding the oil, dropping the sump and performing internal inspection is a bit overkill in that case imo. Things to check:
- Spark plugs
- Injectors
- Ignition coil packs
No, I don't think your engine has any damage, you're far from doom&gloom time. You're not describing mechanical noises. Also, I don't think seafoam is going to help you, carbon deposits won't have this effect.
Good point! The IMS is a curse that keeps all 996, 986, and 997.1 owners awake at night and always peeking around the corner. We're the guys that have to take anxiety medicine to control the nervous trimmers. Any type of bang, clunk, or tapping sounds makes us nauseous like the experiencing one of those sling shot amusement rides. Blinking MIL lights makes us pee poodle dog puddle in our floorboards which eventually is blamed for killing our immobilizers. Most modern 911 owners fall asleep with calming dreams, but instead of sugar pumps dancing in our heads, we imagine chain breaks, piston slapping, bore scoring, bent tie rods, noisy lifters, failing water pumps, intermix, RMS oil leaks, AOS failure, hydrolock, d-chunk, and the biggie of all nightmares - IMS bearing failure!!!
Sleep well my friends!
(evil laugh) mwahahahahahahahahahahahahaha
hahaha, it sure seems like it if you hang around here too long.
Personally, I don't lose a minute of sleep over any of this. I savor every minute of driving and don't worry about the rest. It's just a car. Maintain it properly, do good preventative maintenance, drive it like it was designed to be driven, have fun, and if it breaks, fix it or replace it.
Unless that car was exhibiting exactly OP's symptoms (rumble on accel only, CEL misfire code, no mechanical noise), i'd categorize such remarks 'anecdotal terrorism'. Which is rampant on car forums; no actual information, but merely meant to scare OP into parking the car indefinitely, doing overly extensive blanket-inspections and costly 'checks' or even an expensive tow. Not that it's necessarily always a bad thing to urge for caution, but something to think about maybe.
Yes, because we all secretly get a share of the profits when we tell people to be cautious and do some cursory investigation before starting the engine again. I'm sure you've seen enough anecdotal terrorism in your 5 months on the forum to qualify as an expert in such things.
I had a bad coil once. It would drive ok if you drove it like a car with 120HP. As soon as I tried to accelerate the car would shutter a little and say "drive to shop". I can't remember what CEL code I got. Moved the coil from cylinder 3 to cylinder 1 and the misfires moved as well. Hopefully you just need a $50 coil pack.
My indy just told me it's a bad coil and bad plug. He recommends I change them all for a total of $850. Does that sound like a fair price. He would do just one set for $250. Just started using him. In the NYC area.
thanks all!!
It's not a terrible price but you could do them all for about $250 if you are able to do it yourself. I would recommend doing them all at once. You have a MY2000, so change the tubes and o-rings as well. That's another $30-$50 in parts.
Good Lord! $850 for plugs and coils? Wow, I'm going to open an exclusive shop and only do that. I'll bet I could do three a day....
If you are not a DIY'fer...then I guess you are stuck with that. Might think about shopping around a bit.
$650 is fair. I have done my plugs twice now and have gotten it down to about 2-3 hours for the whole job. The first time it was 2-3 ours per side. I've done struts, wheel bearing and control arms so I consider my self an average DIYer. If I didn't have any tools or didn't enjoy working on my car, I would say $650 for plugs, coils and labor a pretty good deal. That is a good deal at about $400 for the labor.
I suggest you educate yourself on the process, shop around to price parts and make your decision from there.
https://www.pelicanparts.com/techart...park_Plugs.htm
Glad this turned out the way it did.
Hey Sam, glad to hear it was just coils/plugs. You'll have to excuse some of the shell shocked peanut gallery -- I'm all for exercising caution, but also a fan of carefully reading an initial post, which had everyone done, would have known it was likely not the end for you and your 996.
To answer your question, if that's tax/out the door for coils, plugs, tubes and o-rings; $650 is not a terrible price. I did mine myself last year for half that -- just requires a few hours of your time and getting dirty. Basically, cost vs time: your call.
Trying to get the coil plug attached on cylinder 1 and 4 is not fun and can be pretty frustrating the first time. You need to have a small horizontal bit driver as well. Depends on how much $400 is worth to you. Doing brakes is much easier and saves a good amount money.
Thank you all for your assistance. Still quite nervous that work will be done and then I will be hit with horrible news about it being more than plugs.
I did mention to mechanic about orings and tubes. He didn't think it was necessary unless they see some leaking once inside. I was sort of hoping he would just do it as a precaution. But he sees it as a very clean and well maintained car.
I will update you all tomorrow.
Thanks again for all your help!!
https://www.warehouse33auto.com/cata...-Ignition.Coil
^^ Just so you know what the parts actually cost. Obviously, the guy has to make a living but $850 would have been a little steep
$650 ? I would do it my self and pocket $350
The tubes and O-rings are very cheap and add only a few minutes to the whole job. I would suggest that they replace them unless you know for sure that they have been replaced within the last few years. They're made of plastic and are a maintenance item. Most people replace them whenever they change the plugs.
Good to hear! It shouldn't be too hard to do yourself, if you're a handy guy. Do you have any experience? This job should be mostly unbolting and the reverse, just make sure you get a torque wrench somewhere for the plugs.
Turns out even 5-month-old forum-novices can know a thing or too. Almost as if it's possible to have experience across different brands and platforms..
@wyovino
..
A couple of the plugs are real pain the *** for these cars because the access isn't easy. My Bentley service manual suggests removing the rear bumper and mufflers. I did it with just removing the mufflers, but some can do it without removing anything. I think it's a lot easier with a lift.
I scoffed when my indy asked for $500, now I dunno, I think it depends on how lazy I'm feeling.
Ah yeah, that is a valid point. I have a lift myself and it makes 99% of jobs a bucketload easier. I tend to forget to consider the added difficulty of an on-the-floor job.
