Drop engine or just trans for clutch, IMS & AOS

Looks like I need to replace my clutch. While doing that I will replace IMS with one of the LN options. Sounds like convention wisdom is to also replace AOS and RMS while its torn apart. I have seen several opinions on just dropping the engine and trans together vs. just the transmission to do all of this. I have a 2 post lift. I see that part of the procedure is to support the engine if you are just dropping the transmission. Somewhere I read someone made a brace to support the engine that might be helpful with a lift so I can lift the car all the way up while working on the IMS. Since I have a lift, does that change anyone's opinion on improving access for IMS replacement if I just drop the transmission (assuming I find a suitable method for supporting the engine with the car up on a lift? I understand the AOS is still difficult to get to with just the transmission dropped. You all agree to just replace AOS while I'm working on it?

Either way works. I�ve done both with the same kind if setup you have. For just transmission work and rms, imsb, you can leave the engine in. Since you are doing the AOS, I�d drop it all in one assembly. It also makes things like spark plugs a lot easier. I did mine with a motorcyle lift table, but a regular (1000 lb) hydraulic lift table would be ideal. The nice thing about a two post lift is that you can lift the car up off the assembly if you want! I welded up a home brew version of the porsche engine support. There isn�t much to it. Some square tube, angle, a couple of nuts and bolts, and a welder and you�ll have something usable in no time. It bolts to the place where the sway bar mounts. You can google up pictures with dimensions.

I did all that with engine in, trans out on a four post. A word of caution, when you go to jam the trans back in, on a 2 post lift, I would use some tie down stays on the chassis to insure it doesn't take an unplanned trip.

The AOS is an awkward job with the engine in. So is the coolant tank. I did all of this with the engine in, on a lift, but if I were to do it over I would definitely have dropped the engine. But take advantage of the having the engine out and do the whole enchilada. Water pump, AOS vent lines, maybe oil cooler gaskets (?), etc.

After sleeping on it, I had another thought. One factor that adds hassle is the AC coolant purge/recharge. To drop the engine, you need to disconnect those lines. I have a friend with a shop, and he has the right equipment to do this. If you DIY, you'll need to plan ahead for this.

So CDS, you dropped directly on the table? I want a motor cycle lift anyway for working on my bike so maybe that's a win/win all the way around.

I have this motorcycle jack: https://www.sears.com/craftsman-prof...p-00950191000P and a two post lift. Would this be sufficient for dropping engine/trans out and doing this project? I could get my A/C Evac'd at a friends shop then recharged after the fact. Planning on doing Coolant tank and AOS summer 2019 (unless issues arise before then) and would like to plan ahead.

I saw your last reply after sending mine this morning CDS. My AC is blowing cold anyway so it needs recharged. I've never worked on AC at all. Don't they make relatively cheap contraptions to trap and recharge AC systems? Or I just take it in to have it charged once I'm done. I guess I would have to figure out trapping the gas in there or be environmentally unfriendly and add to global warming

DGS, I don't have the experience so others more expertise can comment but I can't see how that would support dropping the engine and tranny together. I think you would need a motorcycle lift table

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You don't have to purge the system. You can remove the compressor from the engine without disconnecting the refrigerant lines. All of that being said. You can do a lot more if you take the motor out, BUT you will be spending another $150-$200 in coolant to refill the system (and the mess that is associated to that). As far as being a pain, doing all of that stuff with the engine in is more of a hassle but doable. It's less finicky to remove the motor, but you have to deal with the coolant, and you open yourself up to forgetting to reattach something, etc.

Between a two post lift and a decent capacity jack, you can do a lot! I think you can do it with the jack you have (plenty of capacity) especially since you also have two post lift. You might want an extra set of hands to help balance it though, the motor/transmission is an awkward shape/balance package. I used a harbor freight motorcycle lift table, since I had one already. I had bikes so it was a very useful thing. It worked well for the engine/transmission drop on the 996. It made a great workbench for pulling the transmission and working on it too. I wouldn't go out and buy one for this purpose though. If I didn't have anything already, I'd get a 1000lb hydraulic lift table (I'm waiting for harbor freight to open their new store in my area on Nov 6, and that will be my first purchase). It takes up less floor space than a bike lift too. Kris, great point on removing the compressor. I forgot about that! My replacement engine had a known good compressor attached, so I went the other way. Thanks for the reminder. AC refill is one of those things that is easy once you have the tools. I bought a set of gauges, vacuum pump and a large tank of R134 years ago, and it keeps on trucking. Recovery is the more complicated part, I don't know may DIYers that have recovery systems. Oh yeah, the coolant tank swap and AOS are both a piece of cake with the engine removed.

Sorry guys, I'm not sure I'm following. Since you don't have to disconnect the lines from the compressor, why would there be a mess with capturing and having to charge the system? You wouldn't have any of that would you (unless like me I need to charge mine anyway)? CDS, I'll need to look more into the dimensions of each (hydraulic table vs. motorcycle lift). Even though I added a 30 x 30 garage in addition to my attached 2 car garage, its amazing how quickly you fill up the space. Cost wise, the mototcycle lift table on harbor is only $150 more than the hydraulic table. the motorcycle lift would be nice at times for my bike although I've also contemplated welding something up to connect two arms of my 2 post lift to serve the same purpose

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Is you 996 a manual or tiptronic transmission? I would recommend replacing the AOS and RMS. If you didn't want to fool with the AOS, at least test the engine BEFORE the procedure with a manometer. The RMS a pretty straight forward process and relatively easy to swap out with the tranny removed. Jake Raby said something about uploading a DIY video for installing the IMS solution. I'm sure many of the steps can be applied to other LN retrofit products. I've just checked his "Rennvision" channel and it's not there yet. I guess they're still editing it? I do see he's uploaded some videos about unboxing the LN IMS products.

It's manual. LN has a written instruction for the Solution installation with pictures somewhere on their website. I have it downloaded as a pdf. I haven't decided if I will do the solution or the ceramic dual row. Since my car has 70k miles and I don't know that I will keep it for more than another 5 years/40k miles, I'm leaning towards the retro. Since I'm going to do the install myself, I doubt the solution will have the warranty since it appears from their website that they insist on certified installers. I need to call them and talk about this though. Just my assumptions. At over 100k miles, I doubt the solution vs. ims replacement would have a significant difference in resell value, especially if I do the install.

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I can try to clarify. There are two options: 1) Disconnect the air conditioning compressor from the top of the engine, and do not disconnect the lines. This does not require a purge/refill. 2) Disconnect the coolant lines and leave the compressor attached to the engine. This requires a purge/refill. I did (2) when i dropped my engine, so I had to purge and refill. I've also done (1) before and it is fiddly (one bolt is tricky to get to through a hole in the manifold), but is completely doable. There are great step by step instructions on the Pelican web site, that include the step to remove the compressor from the top of the engine (IIRC). Two approaches, both equally workable.

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Yes, I did drop it on the motorcycle lift table (well, sort of, I put a partial sheet of OSB on the surface and used some blocks of 2x10 to fill the gaps and keep the assembly level).

Thanks for clarifying. I'm leaning towards getting a table and dropping engine/trans together. I've just replaced the water pump and t-stat a couple months ago unfortunately (that was a pain). My next job prior to finding the clutch slipping was to replace spark plugs so that will be easier. Initial thoughts are to do some of the suggested steps for pre-qualifying that LN suggests (like drain oil (which I also just changed!), check my magnetic plug, drop the sump plate and inspect, check timing variance, etc.. Then drop the engine and bore scope cylinders. I've never seen any hint of metal on my drain plug nor do I have any knocking noise but it seems worth going through the pre-check process. I don't think I will do the oil analysis since I don't plan to do that every time I change the oil. Sounds like fun! Although I will probably wait until after Christmas and my youngest daughter will be home over the holidays and I might need to take the 911 out for a few days so she can use the extra car. Hopefully I can get 4 or 5 days of more driving carefully with the clutch prior to it completely going.

On the AC I would be inclined to leave the comp in the chassis and not disconnect the lines. It might be hard to find a shop which will take your refrigerant as they are worried about compromising their tank and valves with broken bits. Another good reason to leave the engine in place. As for pre-qual on the bearing, I blew it off as I wasn't going to return the bearing to LN after replacement. I also knew if there were issues that were found, there is nothing I could do about it anyway at the time of install. I understand their position on the pro-installers doing it, but for the rest of us, we take our chances.

When I blew my motor, I had to drop two motors (the blown one and the one out of the parts car). I did both without a lift. Steps/Jacks that I used. 1. Screw (2) 2x10s together (1 foot square). 2. Jack the car as high as possible in the rear. 3. Put jack stands on top of 2x10s and lower the car onto stands. This allow me to get the car really high, without having the jack stands at the max setting. 4. When it came time to lower the motor, I used a regular jack under the transmission, and an ATV jack under the motor. Needed to add some 4x4s to the jack to get it high enough, Worked like a dream. First motor took 8 hours to get out (lost one full hour on the 3rd AC compressor bolt). Second motor took 3.5 hours.

Anyone know the weight of the engine and transmission together? I think I'm going the route of a lift table. There are some cheap harbor freight ones but Northern has a 1,000 lift table that looks really solid and raises to 54 inches and has a 32" by 20" table that I think would work well to drop onto.

Weight of engine and transmission is here - http://howtoporsche.com/911-series/9...pecifications/

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That is quite impressive. I can probably do it in a day but not half. Did you have to mess with the power steering lines a lot?