27 captured repliesDiscussion pagination complete · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHWinter Driving: Engine Risks?
Reported or suspected cause
b-grade ims bearing they used
Suggestion or failed attempt
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0
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1
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Suspected cause
It was the B-Grade IMS Bearing they used from Pelican Parts which they failed to mention otherwise I would have changed it earlier.
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Suggestion
Even opening the throttle halfway can cause the cylinders to fill completely with fuel/air, generating close to maximum available torque at low RPM, which can still generate a lot of heat on a cold engine.
Leading evidence: 'b-grade ims bearing they used' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'b-grade ims bearing they used' (1 discussions; 0 report identifying it and 1 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Fill completely' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion
Even opening the throttle halfway can cause the cylinders to fill completely with fuel/air, generating close to maximum available torque at low RPM, which can still generate a lot of heat on a cold engine.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
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Suggestion
They test these cars under much tougher conditions than most of us would ever put it thru ourselves.
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Fill completely
No successful repair reported for this finding.
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Suggestion
Even opening the throttle halfway can cause the cylinders to fill completely with fuel/air, generating close to maximum available torque at low RPM, which can still generate a lot of heat on a cold engine.
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
27 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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Generation: 20261026T205155Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
Hi folks, thanks for creating such an amazing repository of 996 information! I've had my '99 Aero C2 since April, and winter is finally coming to Colorado (it's been warm until fairly recently).
I was reading the "I think I got burnt!" thread (
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...got-burnt.html
), and noticed that in post #9, Jake referenced an issue I'd not read about before: cylinder failure during winter driving (one of the 99 failure modes?).
Can anyone share their thoughts on the best way to avoid a similar problem, if it's at all possible? Thanks in advance!
I live in MN(really cold here in the winter) and drive my 99 C2 without any issues. Sure it's a little stiff when it's-15F and been sitting outside the office all day, but so is every other car. I just give it a chance to warm up before kicking it down. Remember, it's a Porsche. They test these cars under much tougher conditions than most of us would ever put it thru ourselves. Don't let the fearmongering get to you.
Aside from any other winter driving common sense, just be sure to warm the car up by driving it vs. letting it sit idling. Keep your RPM under 3,000ish until fluids come up to temperature. Then keep RPM over 3,000
Oh, wait, snow! Nevermind.
[Image-only post; no author-written text. Original image references:]
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I am sure the car will run at -35, and if you only started it once at that temperature, things would be fine. However the collective wisdom is that the M96, from the factory, doesn't like cold starts, and eventually will chew itself up.
Oddly, Jake says he developed a block heater and couldn't sell any of them. But unless that heater was actually warming the cylinders I don't think it would matter much. But I digest.
At 66F I would be in shorts and a T-Shirt. It will be ~50F here tomorrow, and we would be going to be beach, except the lake is still frozen over.
"I am sure the car will run at -35, and if you only started it once at that temperature, things would be fine. However the collective wisdom is that the M96, from the factory, doesn't like cold starts, and eventually will chew itself up."
This is exactly the type of BS that keeps these threads going...
Yeah, it's not for everyone. I don't go out at -40.
-30 is the cut off for me. Anything colder than that, it doesn't matter if you have heated handle bars and visor, you're gonna freeze.
I think it more or less is the warm up cycle that does the bore scoring. Your can drive in winter but only coming from a warm garage and back without letting the engine to cool down in freezing temps.
Zookie, your 3rd engine? I thought you only had it rebuilt once?
Had my 02 996 Carrera for three years. Parked outside in all kinds of weather in Norway. Two of the winters were quite nippy, lots of snow and ice. No issues, started as normal every time, just loads of fun. It even climbs steep hills when snow and ice. Probably because of all the weight over the back wheels. Typical problem one might have to resolve during a cold winter is the battery, as a degraded battery really shows how degraded it is when cold. Resulting in the starter engine not kicking in. Oh one more thing, the common problem with majo gunk in the oil filler tube is more prevelant in colder climate as oil fumes cool down and condenses in the top part of the tube where it is horizontal.
Although the engine was poorly rebuilt according to the new rebuilder, workmanship was not the reason for failure
It was the B-Grade IMS Bearing they used from Pelican Parts which they failed to mention otherwise I would have changed it earlier.
I started and drove my car recently when it was -10F outside.
I don�t just keep revs under 3,000, I also keep throttle under 15% or so. Even opening the throttle halfway can cause the cylinders to fill completely with fuel/air, generating close to maximum available torque at low RPM, which can still generate a lot of heat on a cold engine.
I also run 0w-40 oil. The oil choice is important at really cold temps.
Ha, -14F this morning here in Minneapolis while I was driving my 996. My biggest challenge in the cold weather is the non-stop fogging up of the windows...
Took mine out today in Southern Illinois, with ice, snow, and the tropical temp of 8F. Had to get my new headlights.
Like everyone else said, let it warm up, and with the all season Yokohamas, it got me everywhere. I also run 0-40w oil.
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