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THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCH2000 996 with a 'T' issue / Normal?
Reported or suspected cause
pita
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No successful repair reported for this finding.
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Leading evidence: 'pita' (1 discussions report identifying this cause; no attributable repair resolution). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'pita' (1 discussions; 1 report identifying it and 0 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Recommend method' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
but lost the big clamp for the hose connecting to the tank, so I used an old school clamp.
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Suggestion · Original poster
Is there a recommended method for hosing down a 996 engine compartment?
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Suggestion · Original poster
Ended up getting a "Air Line Hose Repair Splicer" at NAPA (fits 5/16" hose I.D.) from NAPA (part number 90-554) for $2.99 and it's made of brass.
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Suggestion · Original poster
I searched the subject and read lots of horror stories about having to replace $700 worth of coolant lines and/or having to remove the engine to replace lines.
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Suggestion · Original poster
I searched the subject and read lots of horror stories about having to replace $700 worth of coolant lines and/or having to remove the engine to replace lines.
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10 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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Generation: 20261027T005001Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
Greetings!
I purchased my first 996 recently, and things have been awesome.. until this afternoon.
Went out for lunch to pick up some banjo parts of all things, and the check engine light pops on as I'm leaving the music store. Nothing seems amiss, so I figure I'll just scan the car when I get home.
As I pull into the parking lot at work, tons of white smoke and steam come billowing out of the back of the car, and it's obvious where the leaking began from my path across the parking lot.
After it cooled for a few hours, I went out and put some water in it to try to identify the source of the leak. As it turns out, there is a hose that connects to the bottom of the coolant tank, that hose heads down to wherever that hose goes, but just beneath the tank it has a 'T' and THAT my friends, is where my failure occurred.
At the 'T', a smaller hose that goes off somewhere towards the top of the engine was connected to the 'T' with a ribbed hard plastic tube. Stuffed into the T on one side, and into the other hose on the other side, and fastened with a little springy clamp on each side. The failure occurred when the plastic broke and the hose popped off the T.
I guess my questions are.. is that the way it's SUPPOSED to be? If so, what is that plastic bit called? If that's NOT the way it should be, i.e. some previous owner did a hack job on it.. what is that hose called so I can replace it properly?
Thanks in advance!
This photo shows the T hoses that you may be speaking of. The vertical arrow points two the hose that comes off the bottom of the expansion tank and then forms an upside down T connection (circle).
From your description I believe your leak is from the hose that goes upward which has a connection with two hose clamps. The horizontal arrow points to this connection. There is a plastic internal hose connector that can crack and leak slightly, or perhaps in your case total snapped in half.
If this is the case, its a $5.00 fix. The OEM hose connector is plastic. I went to Ace Hardware and bought a metal connector.
To get at it take the snorkel off, remove the SAI pump and that gives you clear access. If you have the hose clamp tool, use it to remove the OEM hose clamps, if no tool use needle nose pliers. Pull the broken plastic remains of the connector out of the hose ends, then insert the new connector you bought, re-clamp. Top off coolant, good to go.
Maybe wash down the engine compartment if it's cover in coolant residue.
Thanks guys!
The 'T' I was referring to was indeed the one you pictured, Rolex11!
There was a piece of plastic ribbed fitting that connected both of those hoses. I looked at the link that Ahsai had posted, and thought.. well.. the rest of the hose looks to be in excellent condition, maybe I could just replace the connector.
Removing the broken piece proved to be a PITA.. the bit that broke off in the T portion wasn't coming out so I had to remove the hose from the expansion tank and push out.
Once I had both pieces out, I took it to the local auto parts store where the guy tried to sell me a plastic vacuum connector.. he insisted that plastic was just fine for coolant systems, was OEM spec, blah blah blah and it would be no problem to use plastic.
I told him if plastic was such an awesome solution, I wouldn't be standing in his store with a good 2 gallons worth of coolant in my parking lot at work.
Ended up getting a "Air Line Hose Repair Splicer" at NAPA (fits 5/16" hose I.D.) from NAPA (part number 90-554) for $2.99 and it's made of brass.
Reused the original spring clamps for the smaller hose.. but lost the big clamp for the hose connecting to the tank, so I used an old school clamp.
Thank you guys for your help!
Bingo! Glad to see it was what I posted. I had just done mine about 2 weeks ago, only difference was that my connector didn't break completely and let a lot of coolant out, it just barely started to crack and only let a small pin hole stream of coolant out. So I was able to see it and fix it with not much coolant loss, just topped off.
Glad to see you went with a metal (brass) connector, I did the same, got one from Ace Hardware.
I scanned the car afterwards to determine the cause of the CEL and it said "fluid loss/no flow" so perhaps it had started to leak when the CEL came on and it wasn't until it finally gave way that I had any visual indication that something was seriously amiss.
With as much fluid as it appeared to have lost on the ground, I was sure it was a serious leak.. I searched the subject and read lots of horror stories about having to replace $700 worth of coolant lines and/or having to remove the engine to replace lines.
Glad it was something simple. Cleared the code, and drove the hell out of her yesterday in 90 degree temps with no problem.
In stop and go city traffic the hottest I've ever seen the car get is in the '0' on 180.. but I have noticed when she's warmed up I'm at about 1.5 bar for oil pressure at idle.
I wonder if I should be using a thicker oil in the summer? I'm running Mobile 1 0W-40.
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