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THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHWould you replace this rear main seal?
Leading reported evidence
Clean with ipa prior
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
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0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
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Read evidence and context
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
A disturbing amount of crankcase sealant was behind the original seal, which I removed and cleaned with IPA prior to installing the new RMS.
Leading evidence: 'Clean with ipa prior' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Clean with ipa prior' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I believe this is the original RMS from the engine which was replaced in late 2007.
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Suggestion · Original poster
If so, anything special I need to do when replacing the PTFE seal with another PTFE seal?
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Suggestion · Original poster
I have my transmission out (40 Jahre) for a clutch/flywheel replacement due to a failed pressure plate, and common wisdom says to replace the RMS at this time.
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Suggestion · Original poster
I have my transmission out (40 Jahre) for a clutch/flywheel replacement due to a failed pressure plate, and common wisdom says to replace the RMS at this time.
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Suggestion · Original poster
Well I concluded (and did) that you only need to lock the crank - very easy using the shank of an 8mm drill bit, then remove the cam chain tensioners from the bottom of the crankcase (IMS-Crank chain) and the one from banks 1-3 (on your right looking at the flywheel end of the engine).
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9 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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I have my transmission out (40 Jahre) for a clutch/flywheel replacement due to a failed pressure plate, and common wisdom says to replace the RMS at this time.
The catch is that it appears to be the updated, but not latest, PTFE seal, part number
997 101 212 00. I believe this is the original RMS from the engine which was replaced in late 2007.
I plan to use the 3d printed RMS installation tool.
Would you replace it? I'm leaning towards yes, but have I have read that the updated seal has a pretty good track record. If so, anything special I need to do when replacing the PTFE seal with another PTFE seal?
Well, this is one of those 'while you're in there things'.
Especially on the problematic m96 RMS.
When m96 tranny & clutch are already out, always change RMS, regardless of its perceived condition..
jmho
Great stuff, thanks for the reassurance.
I'm a bit intimidated by the IMS cover removal process since I understand that the process is a bit involved. However, I found the following post here which is quite a bit simpler:
NOT engine rebuild time - AOS fooled me.... | Page 6 | Porsche 911 UK Forum Online Enthusiasts Community Discussion GB
"
Incidentally - I also researched and spoke to folk before removing the IMS cover. Although many say you must lock the crank (at the pulley), lock the cams (porsche special tool) and remove all three cam chain tensioners. Well I concluded (and did) that you only need to lock the crank - very easy using the shank of an 8mm drill bit, then remove the cam chain tensioners from the bottom of the crankcase (IMS-Crank chain) and the one from banks 1-3 (on your right looking at the flywheel end of the engine). The other tensioner is for banks 4-6 and is at the other end of the IMS and bears almost no pressure on the IMS bearing end of the shaft."
Can anyone speak to the accuracy of this method? It's well above my paygrade, but I can follow instructions..
In order to pull the flange and get to the seal, the engine has to be prepped as though you were going to pull and replace the IMS bearing (locked at TDC, cams locked, tensioners pulled, etc).
Seal has been replaced, thanks for the push.
I had to use a slide hammer on the original PTFE seal. It did not come out easy and the slide hammer was necessary. A disturbing amount of crankcase sealant was behind the original seal, which I removed and cleaned with IPA prior to installing the new RMS. The 3d printed tool worked perfectly. It was not obvious to me at first, but it is necessary to line up the plastic inner carrier and push the face of the seal (do not touch the mating surfaces) onto the crankshaft. The seal easily transfers and is then ready for use with the tool. Hope this helps the next person as handling of the seal should be minimized.
The engine will sit to allow the seal to mate with the surface (necessary for PTFE seals, as I understand it) while I wait for the UAOS and camshaft holder to show up for the IMS seal removal.
This is a source reference. Confirm exact model applicability in the original material.
