21 captured repliesDiscussion pagination complete · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHSeparating transmission from motor
Leading reported evidence
Replace entire units a whole
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
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1
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Read evidence and context
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
Unfortunately, my donor car is (was) a C2, otherwise I'd just have swapped the entire units a whole.
Leading evidence: 'Replace entire units a whole' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Disconnect hl' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion
You can move the SC out of the way without disconnecting the HL.
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Suggestion
Pertaining to step 4., do you have to drain the clutch fluid before disconnecting the hydraulic line to the slave cylinder?
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Suggestion
Then install 9595 into torque converter from the top hole when re-mating (make sure to change the oil seal of converter) to bell housing...
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Suggestion · Original poster
I've already test fitted them together no problem but now I'm wondering if there's anything I should do in that area before I bolt them up.
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Outcome without a verified action link
For whatever reason, the attach files didn't work...
This is causing me quite the headache...
Take a look at my video and let me know what I'm missing please... I've been all over this forum, you tube and Pelican and I'm stumped...
I cannot for the life of me figure out what I'm missing.
Has anyone an actual step by step for this?
Sorry, I don't see a video. Can you explain it with words or pictures? It is usually a pretty straightforward job.
Pelican Parts has a good writeup on their website, and it is also Wayne Dempsey's 101 Projects for the 996 book.
https://www.pelicanparts.com/techart...on_Removal.htm
https://www.pelicanparts.com/techart...ngine_Drop.htm
Not sure what you are stumped on since I don't see any videos associated with your post.
1. You should have engine supported and tranny/diff ready to remove form engine via its own
floor jack or transmission jack. Strap the tranny to the jack
2. remove drive shafts and swing out of the way. unplug reverse light conector and sepaerate
shift linkage.
3. remove all the bolts from bell housing to engine. take out forward tranny mount and the brackets
4. Don't know what tranny you have, but manual will need hydraulic slave cylinder removed once
tranny is lowered slightly from engine .
5. pull transmission away from engine keeping the gap between the two even through the separation.
This proscess will take some grunting and leg leverage to initiate.
6. you should have the car about 23 inches off the floor to slide tranny out.
Hope this helps
Some follow up photos since my video didn't / won't load...
Tranny & motor are out of the car as one unit.
The top bolt butts up against that ridge to it's left. Two step removal? (pull them apart and then go back to pull the bolt?)
Halfway down the drivers side of the tranny is this one. Can't back it out all the way because of the ledge to its left. Again, a two step process?
Looking underneath from the drivers side. There's a 15mm nut (highlighted by the flashlight) but now it spins freely 'cos I can't get to the other end of the bolt...
Looking underneath from the passenger side. I cannot find a 10mm nut or a triple square bolt anywhere...
My apologies in advance for the size of these photos. For whatever reason, the attach files didn't work...
You have to remove the starter to access the six screws through the starter hole. Going to look at Bentley now and report back. Also, you need some special (9595) tools to lock the TC and keep it from from falling out.
Crankshaft locked at TDC?
Get the Bentley manual its all there. Different years have a different procedure it looks like too.
I think I only need to do that if I'm working on the IMS bearing. I'm not doing that, I'm just installing an '07 997 motor to my C4 tranny. Unfortunately, my donor car is (was) a C2, otherwise I'd just have swapped the entire units a whole.
I'll have an '07 C2 tranny up for sale in a few weeks... along with all of the other remaining parts from the '07...
No, these steps have nothing to do with IMSB.
Lock crank shaft TDC, through the starter hole remove 2 of the 6 6mm Allen head bolts, pull pin and rotate 120* relock crankshaft and continue... Then remove bellhousing bolts. Then install 9595 into torque converter from the top hole when re-mating (make sure to change the oil seal of converter) to bell housing...
is that the triple square on the right in your last picture?
You can just unbolt the slave from the transmission you don�t need to take it off the line.
No, you can unbolt the slave and pull it back out of the way, although either way works. Some have trouble getting the slave back in but mine went in effortlessly.
First off I appologize for introducing some confusion into the OPs thread. I incorrectly assumed he had a manual transmission.
I noticed that the above question has been answered, so I won't go into an additional response.
I think it is worth summarizing this post for the next poor soul.
The Tiptronic transmission is a Mercedes gearbox and does not fit directly into the Porsche engine. It needs a 2 inch thick flange to allow the Porsche engine to mate with the Mercedes box. The separation process requires the gearbox to be removed from the engine while leaving in place the 2 inch converter flange. The dead give-away is when the large flange bolt backs out and up against the edge of the gear box without any more room to remove.
The gearbox fasteners are Torx bolts and quite easy to get to, except for a couple of them at the bottom where they are pointed in the reverse direction, then you need a short Torx bit to access the bolts. The starter should be removed to access the flywheel to torque converter bolts. Once those bolts are all removed, you push the transmission away from the engine / flange. At this point, if you need to remove the converter flange, you undo the large bolts and the thing comes away from the engine. You only do this if you are working on the engine or swapping engine.
On the way back, you want to make sure that the torque converter is snapped all the way into the gearbox input shaft before you try to mate it back to the engine. Otherwise, the gearbox will not go all the way into the engine and it will get stuck with 1/4 inch gap. That is the second dead give-away clue.
Happy wrenching.
no worries.
Most of the teardowns on here are about manuals; do Tip owners not do their own work? :-)
I did spend an hour looking for that damn slave cylinder while I was dropping the engines. Took me awhile to realize that it referred to manuals only...
OK; thanks for all the help so far!
Now, I'm at the point of putting the C4 tranny onto the '07 motor.
I've already test fitted them together no problem but now I'm wondering if there's anything I should do in that area before I bolt them up.
The '07 has the newer IMS bearing with the 22mm nut so I wasn't planning on doing anything there.
The torque converter from the '07 C2 tranny looks to be in better shape (see the photos) than my older '02. The '02 is the one with all of the "rusty" spots on it.
Any benefit/issues with simply swapping them out?
Anything else I should think of?
