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YOUR RESEARCHBlack Plastic in Filter
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anyway
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No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
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1
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0
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If you have a high mileage, low value car that sounds like you are not going to tear the motor down to fix whatever the issue is anyway.
Leading evidence: 'anyway' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'anyway' (1 discussions; 0 report identifying it and 1 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Replace guides requires a case split' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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15 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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I did my own oil change and found these hard black particles in the filter. They look like a lot, but what you see is all there was in the entire filter. Mechanic told me previous filter was clean. From my research on here I have seen a lot of variable opinions around the timing components that seem to shed this debris. This is a low value, high mileage car. What is my prognosis and options? Thanks in advance.
If you have a high mileage, low value car that sounds like you are not going to tear the motor down to fix whatever the issue is anyway. I say just let it ride if that is the case.
timing chain guide material. How high mileage? replacing the guides requires a case split. might as well refresh the whole engine if you go that route.
Member here (Riad) had his hi mileage 996 engine grenade as a result of badly worn chain guides.
vario cam guides are brown, IIRC. chain guides are black. 175k miles is a good run...........
I have 150k and at the first sign of that kind of wear I am going to have my indy pull and refresh the engine. I have had the car since new (2000 C4 cab tip), and it is only worth something to me. no point in selling it, no point in driving it into the ground.
The problem with a refresh is the same as with a remodel, figuring out where to stop. If you split the case, you might as well sleeve the cylinders and go with new pistons. Now you are talking 5 figures which is where you will be anyways if the engine lets go on you. So how much advantage is there really to doing it proactively?
Unfortunately that’s where I’m at. I paid ~9k for the car and have been fixing up some of the minor issues it has, mainly on the cheap. Dropping the engine and rebuilding it doesn’t make sense. It’s too bad because it’s a California car.
These are the IMS rails from my engine at 82k miles. The outer chain guides had some wear but no pitting like these two. With that much plastic you are showing I would think you will have a failure soon.
Btw, two outer rails were black and two were brown on my engine.
Yes.
This is my engine (same machined billet chain tensioner as above), with half the block off, showing the tensioner. The crank carrier has to come completely out to get to the guide on the other side.
M96 3.4
Sam.
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