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YOUR RESEARCHFunction First Shift Cables Install
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Check connections o
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
while doing tech last week i checked the connections o.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I use a shim to take up the slack between the mechanism and the housing.
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Suggestion · Original poster
18) Adjust the cable ends until the line up with the shift ***** without any tension and squeeze them on.
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Suggestion · Original poster
1) Remove the console and E-Brake, disconnect the cable ends from the shifter, pull the shifter out (its much easier to put the cable ends on..
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Suggestion · Original poster
FF includes a couple of specialized tools for this install, a transmission end wrench for tightening and a pin type tool for tightening the shifter ends.
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After some blown shifts at my last DE I decided to change from the 100K+ factory cables to something more modern. After looking around I decided on the Function First cables and dropped an order. I don't understand how these places put out products without even a simple instructions sheet, but they don't SO heres a quick rundown with some photos I took during the install. FF includes a couple of specialized tools for this install, a transmission end wrench for tightening and a pin type tool for tightening the shifter ends. They also included some cotter pins, supposedly for using on the transmission end but I haven't figured out how they work. There are holes at each hex point but no holes in the shift cable housing. Maybe we are supposed to drill our own holes.
There are 2 pins in each cable end (Both shifter and Trans). These pins must be pointing out from the bracket as they are the anti-rotation mechanism for the cables. It can be tough to get this alignment and I had to pull the cables several times to get correct alignment.
1) Remove the console and E-Brake, disconnect the cable ends from the shifter, pull the shifter out (its much easier to put the cable ends on.. These cables are a lot stiffer than factory and do not bend as easily so stuffing them under the e-brake isn't really feasible.
2) Drive the rubber bushing out of tunnel. I use a long 3/8 extension and a rubber mallet. It gets it moving without penetrating the rubber.
3) remove the cable ends from the ***** and bracket on the tranny and pull both cables at the same time.
4) The rubber bushing will need to be cut to remove the factory cables. I sliced across the side and one up the middle. The electrical bundle stays in the car, and can be a pain to fit back in its channel.
5) Ensure you have the side to side cable in the center and the fore-aft cable outside. Offset the threaded ends so only one goes through the tunnel at a time and slide the ends in.
6) Slide the rubber bushing forward and push the electrical bundle into its slot. Slide the bushing into the hole (Some silicone spray helps here).
7) Once again the extension and mallet help to push the bushing all the way in. I have a 36" extension and it worked fine.
8) Pull the cable forward and remove the shifter ends. On the fore/aft cable you'll need to remove the spring ball keeper to fit it on the ball, on the side/side cable its a tight fit and I needed some clamping pressure for it to go on. Remember to replace the keeper. Sorry my photo of this spring isn't clear.
9) Reinstall the shifter.
10) install the cable ends into the shifter and using a 10mm open end wrench connect to the cable end to the shifter connections. Thread them all the way on and use a second 10mm wrench to snug up the locking nut.
11) Tighten up the shifter ends (ensuring the pins are correctly oriented) Using the Pin Tool supplied in the box. I just tightened them up as hard as I could with my hands. Otherwise I was afraid the tool would break.
12) Now move back to the tranny.
13) Put bot cable ends into the bracket with the pins facing out and the end bushing full slid into the bracket.
14) Slide the nut and washer up and tighten with the included wrench. Once again I tightened them with only hand pressure.
15) Put the rubber washers over the shift *****.
16) ensure you have the shifter alignment tool installed.
17) Ensure the trans is in neutral
18) Adjust the cable ends until the line up with the shift ***** without any tension and squeeze them on.
19) Remove the shifter alignment tool and shift away.
A) Cables as delivers with wrench, pin tool, cotter pins, rubber washers.
B) Comparison to factory cables
C) Rubber bushing cut and new cables installed.
D) Cables pulled into cabin. Alignment pins are visible
E) Cables pulled into cabin thru tunnel. Its a tight fit for these new ends.
F( Bushing going into tunnel from engine bay. The electrical bundle is on left and is tough to reach,, especially on a 4S.
G) Shifter ends installed. This is a Porsche Short Throw Shifter and needed some clamping pressure to get the bearing pressed on. I use a shim to take up the slack between the mechanism and the housing.
H) The ball end and the spring mechanism that needs to be removed to get the ball end installed.
J) Shifter Cable Ends installed. The pin tool is visible along with the alignment pins.
K) Transmission cable ends. The alignment pins are shown.
L) Complete cable end on Transmission. The holes on the nuts are visible and i believe a cotter pin can be put into there for mechanical locking.
How about a review?
What�s your before and after experience?
My shifter was sub-par, then I installed the function first shifter, new motor mounts, FF transmission mount insert, new fluid, and safety wired the cables in place. I am very happy with it now, none of the frustrating issues from before, but am curious if cables could improve the shifting experience even more.
i wont be able to review for a few days. Waiting o ECU to come back from ECU Doctors, and a new set of headers going on. Will provide a review after, but I will say just from the static shifting its a big difference for me. My cables were old an I had to use zip ties to keep the cable ends in place.
Great writeup! I've had the FF cables for about a year now and I don't perceive any increased noise from them. I have the FF shift right black short shifter and bearings too.
how do you like the black shifter? I am about to pull the trigger on the SRS and the Cable Ends for my �04 TT.
trying to decide if I�m going to try a 997 shifter or the black version from FF. May just start with the first two and see how goes. But adding the FF shifter is only $165 so may be worth a shot.
While I don't have the FF, I did have the 997 and then went to the Manthey unit. The 997 was very nice and the FF would be closer to the Manthey from what I was told. Biggest thing most of us would recommend is get the FF shift right kit too, it really cleans up the slop.
yeah. Definitely going with the kit and ends.
my original shifter isn�t too sloppy so I�m not sure I really need to swap it. Thinking of starting with just the two and then add the shifter if needed. But it�s cheap to add the shifter to the order, so I�m just not sure
I had the stock 996 shifter and felt like the throw distance was a little too long but I didn't want to go super short. The black is shorter than the 996 but not by a lot. It feels OEM still. They advertise the black as a similar shift length to the 997 stock shifter.
The quality of the FF black shifter is top notch.
Edit: I am enjoying the FF black with the cable and will keep it this way. Shifts are a little shorter but feel much more mechanical and precise compared to stock.
Just got the ecu/immobilizer back from the shop today. However, I'm still getting g the new headers I stalled after drilling out some exhaust bolts. I still have a uaos to install and a small drip on my waterpump to fix. The last 2 may wait until I put some time on the new cables.
Got to drive it today. The shifting is much more precise. 2-3 upshift is automatic and the 3-2 downshift is much easier to nail. That's a good thing as i was blowing that downshift the last DE. Which is what i would hope for a $500 part. I don't notice any noise coming from the cables. But the cables don't touch the vehicle any where other than the ends. I made sure the rubber isolation bushing is in place and really should keep the vibration at bay.
I've got several DE sessions in on them now. Definitely one of the better upgrades I have done. There is no hunting for a gear, the factory sloppiness is just gone.
while doing tech last week i checked the connections o. The tranny and they were still as tight as when i installed them. If anyone is hearing noise from them I would expect it's from the isolator not being installed correctly in the tunnel.
4.5 out of 5. 1/2 star deduction for not telling me how to i stall the cotter pins.
Thanks for this write-up. I'm doing the swap right now on my 997 and a couple of the tips you shared will make my install less painful.
Does anyone have any idea why FF includes a pile of cotter pins with the installation tools? I can't find any place on the cables to use them.
Thanks! The holes are so tiny that I didn't notice them at first.
I'm doing the cables right now. It's a fun time on an AWD car, as the snout on the transmission and the driveshaft get in the way of about everything. You have to pull the forward transmission mounts to get the grommet back in, and I ended up using a 3' or so piece of trim wood and a pry bar braced on the rear transmission mount structure to press the grommet all the way in.
