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YOUR RESEARCHSMOG and California
Leading reported evidence
Check with my durametric and i get a failed
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I checked with my Durametric and i get a failed under Catalytic Converter Efficiency under the ready menu.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
Other than that there are not fault codes and the battery has not been disconnected for quite a while.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
Don't have a solid technocal answer other than I ran into the same issue in IL.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
Seems that I had used my durametric to clear codes a few days earlier and the smog guy couldn't get any readings.
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Suggestion
If you have a code reader you can check the system to see if these codes are all ok.
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Suggestion
If you have a friend with a PST or PIWIS, they can run a "short test" on your car which will simulate all the driving necessary to prepare the DME output for a "ready test" which is what the emissions guys are looking for.
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Hello,
i have a 2003 C4S that i am having problems getting the ECU to report on the catalytic converter for my SMOG inspection. The SMOG station is indicating the catalytic converter is not ready. I didn't have a problem 2 years ago when i initially registered the car in CA. Since the first visit last week i have driven the car 60 miles (30 miles just before I took it in again) and have the same issue. There arent any codes showing up. I do have a
Durametric
scanner that will help identify the issue. The SMOG technician said I need to drive it under 60 mph without accelerating had or using the AC which doesn't make sense to me. I have added UAOS, replace plugs, injectors and coils since the last inspections but i dont think these should affect the CAT. Everything is stock on the engine other than the UAOS.
Stephen
Don't have a solid technocal answer other than I ran into the same issue in IL. Seems that I had used my durametric to clear codes a few days earlier and the smog guy couldn't get any readings. He was a pretty cool guy and told me to drive it over the next week and come back. So I did and It worked.
The technician is looking for �readiness codes� from the DME. Those are generated after so many cycles or hours of use. After that threshold is met and if no error from the monitored items you essentially get a green light. This means the system has accumulated an enough data to assure proper operation.
it is designed so that you cannot cheat by clearing a check engine light and going in for a SMOG test.
Keep driving it to accumulate the necessary time, cycles, mileage etc to get the CAT readiness code. If you have a code reader you can check the system to see if these codes are all ok.
Couple of things to add to what others have said;
The older and weaker your cats are, the longer they can take to complete readiness cycle.
If you clear any fault codes or interrupt battery power to your ECM, all the completed tests are wiped out and you have to start over again.
My car usually achieves readiness after a couple of freeway jaunts.
Our resident Porsche Tech here can probably guide you further on the exact drive cycle to complete catalyst readiness.
good luck!
I thought the drive cycle was a ratio of how many times the car is started to how long each running cycle is..
You can see the drive cycle data with the durametric hooked up while driving fwiw..
I checked with my Durametric and i get a failed under Catalytic Converter Efficiency under the ready menu. Other than that there are not fault codes and the battery has not been disconnected for quite a while.
Here's the OBD reset proceedure that
should
get your cats ready:
Step 1: Cold Start
The engine coolant temperature must be below 50�C/122�F and above 6�C/11�F of the ambient air temperature during startup.
Don't leave the key on before the cold start or there is a possibility that the
heated oxygen sensor may not run.
Step 2: Idle
Run the engine for 2.5 minutes with the rear defroster on and the AC on maximum. The more electrical load, the better.
This tests the Passive Air, O2 heater, Purge "No Flow", and Misfire. If you can achieve a closed loop, then the Fuel Trim will also be tested.
Step 3: Accelerate
Turn off air conditioner, radio, and other loads. Apply a half throttle until you reach 55mph. Make sure to drive on the right most lane.
This tests the Misfire, Fuel Trim, and Purge Flow.
Step 4: Maintain Steady Speed
You must maintain a steady speed of 55mph for 3 minutes.
This tests the Air Intrusive, Misfire, EGT, Purge, O2 Response, and Fuel Trim.
Step 5: Decelerate
Release your foot from the accelerator pedal. You must not shift or touch the brake/clutch. The vehicle must gradually coast down to 20mph. Now is a good idea to turn on your
hazard warning lights
to let other cars behind you be alert on what's going on. They may even high beam you in the process. This is why you need to already be in the most right lane.
This tests the Purge, EGR, and Fuel Trim.
Step 6: Accelerate Again
Accelerate at 3/4 throttle until you reach 55mph again. This tests the Misfire, Fuel Trim, and Purge Flow again.
Step 7: Maintain Steady Speed Again
You will now maintain a steady speed of 55mph for 5 minutes.
This performs additional diagnostics as well as the catalyst monitor. However, if the battery has been disconnected or the catalyst is marginal, it might take you 5 entire driving cycles to complete.
Step 8: Decelerate
Once again, don't brake, shift gears, or press the clutch. This performs the same tests as step 5.
Thank you @jobyt, ill give this a shot. Im 8 miles from the freeway which is the only place ill be able to accomplish this drive profile. Does it matter if between step 2 and 3 i vary the speed? I live up a road that is impossible to keep 55 due to the curves.
Aside from the list
@jobyt
provided another factor could be fuel level during the drive cycle. Can't say for sure with our cars but may need fuel to be 15% less than a full tank or greater than empty to clear the evap I/M.
Step 9: Hop procedure
Standing next to the car, raise your right leg flamingo style. While standing on one leg, hold arms straight out and begin to flap them. Next, hop on the one leg while flapping your arms and make 7 complete circles hopping around the car while shouting "I love to live in California, I love to live in California", repeat over and over until all laps are completed.
Step 10: Promise Whisperer
Kneel down and get intimately close to the passenger side tailpipe while the car is still cold. Place you mouth close to the tailpipe and say, "I love you. I love you. I LOVE YOU! Please sweetie pudding pie, don't mess up this test. Please pass SMOG and I promise to move you to Texas when the time is right." Bonus points for blowing kisses up it's tailpipe.
Check with a Durametric and I'm positive the car will be in ready status
How long ago did you reset the computer? Mine takes 2 days to clear all the monitors. All but the cat monitors clear on the first day. The cat monitor requires the cool down overnight.
The only special driving I do is to hold speed around 2.5k rpm for 2 min 2 or 3 times each day. Otherwise normal driving.
The concept of holding at a given Rpm is from Vagcom. It has a routine where you can set your monitors in your driveway. It has several of these multi-minute hold procedures within it.
Something else is wrong if it doesn�t clear in a couple of days.
Can you use your durametric to record the O2 sensors before and after the cats? The after O2 should be reasonably flat. If it is following the before O2, then your cat is bad.
This worked for me.
Start the car do not warm it up. Drive the car without going over 4500 rpms and 55mph.
Get on the freeway in the slow lane with flashers on and drive no faster than 55mph for 15-20 mins.
You cats should now be ready.
By a cheap OBD2 reader to confirm prior to taking into shop.
If you have a friend with a PST or PIWIS, they can run a "short test" on your car which will simulate all the driving necessary to prepare the DME output for a "ready test" which is what the emissions guys are looking for. Not sure if durametric can do a short test.
This is a source reference. Confirm exact model applicability in the original material.