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THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHPassenger window not going down
Reported repair
Replace door lock actuator
Reported resolution
1
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0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
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Reported fix
Yes, there are several microswitches in the door lock actuator - has the same issue with my 97' Boxster - lift the handle the window drops then goes straight back up - replaced the door lock actuator, and problem solved.
Leading evidence: 'Replace door lock actuator' (1 discussions report resolution; 0 report an unsuccessful attempt). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'regulator' (1 discussions; 0 report identifying it and 1 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Replace door lock actuator' (1 discussions). For that action, 1 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. The most frequently reported fix is 'Replace door lock actuator', supported by resolution reports in 1 discussions. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
On my current '99 C4, I went ahead and replaced the driver side lock actuator proactively with the OEM part because of so much trouble that can stem for this part malfunctioning.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
(No proof just read a lot and see it posted on more than one place) so it's best to get a good used OEM used one.
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Suspected cause
If the window never drops it could be a few different things but likely the regulator,
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Replace door lock actuator
1
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0
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Reported fix
Yes, there are several microswitches in the door lock actuator - has the same issue with my 97' Boxster - lift the handle the window drops then goes straight back up - replaced the door lock actuator, and problem solved.
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Suggestion
I've learned to check the window before closing the door, and if it is in the fully up position I press the door in lightly until it drops, then close the door all the way.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
On my current '99 C4, I went ahead and replaced the driver side lock actuator proactively with the OEM part because of so much trouble that can stem for this part malfunctioning.
These are separate views of the same evidence. Frequency alone does not establish a fix, and these counts must not be added together.
Replace door lock actuator
1
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
Discussions that report a fix
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Reported fix
Yes, there are several microswitches in the door lock actuator - has the same issue with my 97' Boxster - lift the handle the window drops then goes straight back up - replaced the door lock actuator, and problem solved.
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
34 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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2 acknowledgements have no verified action link; they do not establish a repair result.
Outcome without a verified action link
That said, once installed, it fixed the central locking system codes, the light on the dash and the fiddly stuff with the remote locking with the key fob.
So frustrating when you have someone in the car
I have to remember to open the window a little before they get in or it hits the convertible top!
You Tube
You Tube
Tjhe window should drop 1/4" or so when the door is opened, then go back up after the door is closed. It probably hasn't been reset since the last time the battery was disconnected. Run the window all the way down and all the way back up several times. (This works for me.) If that doesn't fix it then dig around here for window reset procedure. Also check to see if it is dipping when the door opens and then going back up while the door is still open. If it does that then the latch assembly may need replacement.
I have the same issue with the window ever so slightly hitting the convertible top when closing the door. You have to close the door "gently" otherwise SMACK......I might have to look at reseting mine as well.
Quicker procedure
- With the door closed and window all the up, pull on the door handle, but
DON'T
open the door. If you hear a slight grunt sound but the window doesn't drop slightly, then it's your window regulator. The cables in the regulator stretch over time and develop too much slack. Common failure point.
Now, if you don't hear the slight grunt sound when pulling the door handle, then it is the door lock mechanism IMHO.
Do a window reset on upper/lower limits - push down button and once the window is down continue to hold the down button and hold for a slow count to ten. Then push the up button and once the window is up continue to hold the up button for a slow count to ten. This resets the upper and lower limits of the window and will restore the auto up/down of the windows.
Otherwise what ZuffenZeus said is correct, regulator or door latch mechanism most likely culprits.
With the door open, if you release the outer handle and the window goes back up it's the latch that is the cause, The window should stay down when the door is open.
Here's how to trouble shoot this issue.
If the window doesn't drop when opening the door from the inside, it's the inside handle micro switch.
If the window doesn't drop when opening the door from the outside, it's the outer handle micro switch.
If the window drops when the door is open but raises when you release the handle, it's the door latch.
If the window never drops it could be a few different things but likely the regulator,
Update thanks to female co pilot.
When you open the passenger door using the inside handle the window does notch down and stay down until the door closes. PERFECT
When you open the Passenger door using the outside handle, it doesn't stay notched. When you release the handle with the door open the window goes back up.
So we isolated this challenge to the exterior door handle.
So what's the fix folks?.lol
Door latch right.per vyovino reply?
You could try a bit of spray lube first. My driver's side door latch hangs like that; I close the door just until it contacts the catch on the body, which moves it enough to cause the window to drop down, then I close the door all the way. One of these days I'll get around to replacing the latch. Probably when the window mechanism fails!
This is the problem. How do you fix this?
Door open:
It does notch when I grab the outside handle but then when you let go of the handle it notches back up with the door still.open.
Passenger door microswitch and the door is open. When you hit the switch the window should stay notched down until the door is closed.
it doesnt.
The inside handle works perfectly. Stays down when the door is open.
The new switch is in the mail coming soon.
Is there a microswitch on the lock mechanism? It might be that one that faulty. I'll know more tomorrow when I swap out the new microswitch and if that's not the fix then onto the next part to disassemble
Yes, there are several microswitches in the door lock actuator - has the same issue with my 97' Boxster - lift the handle the window drops then goes straight back up - replaced the door lock actuator, and problem solved.
So from inside the car you pull the handle and the window drops and stays down? From memory with mine on the inside I needed to hold the handle slightly open so the window would clear before I got out
As I mentioned in my original post in this thread, problems with these windows are usually the regulator or door lock assembly. I've repaired many. My advice is don't overthink it, replace the door lock assembly (ref #14) on the door that is acting up and move on with life.
Do you have a central locking system red light on the dash? If so, that's where I was at about 4 or 5 months ago and you need to replace the latch. Good thing is, like you said, no key locking mechanism to fiddle with and its really pretty easy to replace following the DIY instructions. Bad news is the $$$. I could not find the passenger door latch replacement for less than $560 with shipping. That said, once installed, it fixed the central locking system codes, the light on the dash and the fiddly stuff with the remote locking with the key fob. As basic as this problem is, I was
really
glad when it was fixed.
Miles have no bearing on this part. It's time in service and frequency of use. Therefore, I would recommend a brand new genuine OEM Porsche replacement part.
Do it RIGHT or... do it TWICE.
That's exactly how my driver's door latch works. In retrospect I think it's been that way since I got the car in 2021. I also tried lubricating the mechanism, no change. I've learned to check the window before closing the door, and if it is in the fully up position I press the door in lightly until it drops, then close the door all the way. One of these days I'll get around to replacing the latch assembly...
Its fairly a simple job. I watched videos for days and can do it with my eyes closed. The part comes in Wednesday for me.
But check ebay there is a seller selling the driver side off the car i bought the passenger side. And it's a low miles 996.
I read not to get the amazon ones due to a computer board that triggers our alarm. (No proof just read a lot and see it posted on more than one place) so it's best to get a good used OEM used one.
60 bucks for the latch plus that 8 mm triple star (
Capri Tools 30034 8mm XZN Triple Square Bit Socket with 3/8-Inch Drive, Model: CP30034) off Amazon (6 bucks)
Under 70 bucks and no more glass hitting our convertible trim !
i get it. But for the money..
60 bucks and ill do it 5 times if needed before buying it new at 450 bucks....
Take the budget off that and buy another part.
More power to you!
But for me, I look at it differently... that is, the part I'm taking out lasted 20+ years and in many cases the original factory part. Therefore, I don't want to go through the trouble of installing another 20+ year part of this nature (i.e. both electronic and mechanical) that also might be at OR nearing the end of its useful operating life.
On my current '99 C4, I went ahead and replaced the driver side lock actuator proactively with the OEM part because of so much trouble that can stem for this part malfunctioning. The part that I took out was the original factory installed part.
I just fell outta my seat... you say a Porsche dealership let you "borrow" a brand new genuine lock actuator? Wow... I've never known any dealership let anyone borrow a part to install. You must have left a big impression!
So do these "borrowed" parts go back into inventory as "brand new" when they're done being used for testing? I'd love to know the dealer name so I can make sure I never buy parts from them. Thanks!
You're living under a rock if you don't think things like this happen from parts department to service department with parts not working then mechanics diagnose other alternatives putting parts back into stock. Even happens to my Maserati I've seen it with my own eyes a mechanic do it...
We have found the culprit of a couple of cables not properly seated in its boot on the lock harness causing the faulty random up and down.
This is a source reference. Confirm exact model applicability in the original material.
