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YOUR RESEARCHHows my car stuff look?
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Use oe one
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I get them machined to reveal a nice clean, smooth surface but I always used the OE one.
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Suggestion
I get them machined to reveal a nice clean, smooth surface but I always used the OE one.
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Suggestion
It's now in need of replacing; it would have been so much cheaper to have not been cheap in the first place.
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Suggestion · Original poster
i cant find instructions on changing the AOS from the back side\underneath, im assuming its possible.
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Suggestion
After buying my 2004 C2 I immediately took it to my Indy shop for the IMS and RMS upgrade at which time they told me that I had approx 40%- left on clutch and recommended replacing since they were into it.
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Here are some pics of my IMS and RMS, also my flywheel. My clutch plate was in pretty good shape for 102k miles but obviously I'm putting a new clutch kit on anyway.
My flywheel is smooth and seems ok, has some slight discoloration. I assume the spring kind of rotation thing is the dual mass in action?
I think I have an oil cooler leak, should I just replace the whole thing?
I also think my AOS has gone, at idle I get quite a suck when I take the oil cap off and from the pic here it looks like its gone.
It looks like I have a dual row IMS.
At 107k I would replace the flywheel also.
The corrosion in the cavity under the cooler is normal. It is not caused by a cooler leak. Moisture gets in that cavity through the opening at the top and works on the case as it sits there and slowly evaporates. Impressive that you have what appears to be a DRY original RMS.
Why would I have to change the flywheel? I was about to order a new oil cooler and O-rings, should I just leave this instead? it would save me time and money not swapping out the oil cooler right now.
Thanks!
I read more about the flywheel...eeekk does everything in this car have 100x times more parts than it needs to have, do germans not know how to design KISS..?
Looks like there is a rotation spec of 20mm on the flywheel, I will check it when I get home.
Regarding the oil cooler, should I leave it or should I replace? I got the transmission out now, I need to pull the trigger on my next parts order to make it in time for the memorial 3 day weekend.
thanks guys
Looks like you have a good plan for the clutch components. I would replace everything clutch related, including the DMF. Don't forget new flywheel bolts. Definitely time for a new AOS. The oil cooler has some O-rings underneath, but, if it is not leaking then I think I would leave it alone. Jake has stated that when replacing the oil cooler he has found many that are warped out of the box. That means another engine drop just to fix that.
update, i bought 2x 6 ton jack stands for the rear, its more stable now. my DMF is in very good shape, minimal sag so im reusing it, the guy seemed very light on his clutch PO. Putting new AOS on but leaving the oil cooler.
i cant find instructions on changing the AOS from the back side\underneath, im assuming its possible. i oredered a dual row LN IMS for replacement.
My one regret when I did my clutch and IMSB retrofit was not getting a new flywheel. It's now in need of replacing; it would have been so much cheaper to have not been cheap in the first place.
What condition was it in when you took it out though and the general clutch? the PO of my car seemed very gentle on the clutch, if I had to guess the car was garaged all week and used for long drives at weekends. Here's a pic of a new clutch plate Vs the old one, there is wear but seems very good for that kind of mileage.
I drove a bunch of 996's before I bought this one and even higher mileage ones seem to have no issues with the clutch, I get the impression if you drive it conservatively the DMF is a long lasting part.
I'm in the replace the flywheel camp but seeming you've already dropped the transmission yourself you could just as easily replace it at a later date. Although you should do it now seeming you've come this far.
After buying my 2004 C2 I immediately took it to my Indy shop for the IMS and RMS upgrade at which time they told me that I had approx 40%- left on clutch and recommended replacing since they were into it. They also recommended replacing the flywheel each and every time a clutch replacement is performed. Even though that meant another $900.00, I trusted that they knew more than I so had it done.
I have never replaced the flywheel in any of my cars when doing a clutch job. I get them machined to reveal a nice clean, smooth surface but I always used the OE one. This is what my lifelong mechanic does also.
My last car was sold at 275 000km. Still running A+. Will hit 300k km this year, no doubt. Still with the original flywheel. Thats a huge chuck of coin. If its good to re-use, then re-use it and save they money for something else.
