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YOUR RESEARCHdownshifting or braking? The debate...
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Replace brake pads than clutches, as carl mentioned above
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I prefer to use the brakes since it's easier and cheaper to replace brake pads than clutches, as Carl mentioned above.
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and this is why you change your clutch every 20000 miles!!!!!
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So I"m wondering, serious, if I should change my driving habits.
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I typically use the brakes for braking; any downshifting is done to get into the right gear once it's time to start accelerating again.
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The only real case for compression braking is on steep downhill grades, and even then you should be rev matching your downshifts and just using the engine braking to hold speed.
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What's your opinion about downshifting. I have always downshifted at intersections and now I'm wondering if it's really a good idea.
It's a lot of work in my 2001 996 C4, and maybe it's not great for the tranny and engine.
What do you do?
Downshifting is fine but it's not an efficient form of braking. Your brakes do a much better job of that. If you heel/toe when you do it, it's a little easier on the synchros and great practice for the track. But heel/toe is a lot tougher (for me at least) with light braking because the brake peddle is further up. But if you really want to take care of these engines, try and keep the RPMs above 3,000 for the most part. The only time I did below is taking corners in 2nd gear but then I ease on up to 3k and then liberally add throttle from there. This prevents undue stress on the variocams.
What's less expensive Brakes or a transmission Don't use your transmission as a brake - even though it's fun- you have the best on the planet , use them!
If i'm in town near buildings, i will downshift even when the revs are lower to hear the burbling.
Downshifting could be a quicker way to wearing out the gearbox.
Combo of both. The advantage of a manual is the control. Downshifting is part of the equation. Factor in traction control and ABS and you almost can't screw it up.
I typically use the brakes for braking; any downshifting is done to get into the right gear once it's time to start accelerating again. During normal daily driving, I don't generally even bother with blip-shifting down.
I prefer to use the brakes since it's easier and cheaper to replace brake pads than clutches, as Carl mentioned above. I'll leave the jake braking to the long-haul guys...
If you're slowing via downshifting, you're essentially coasting...and (at least when track driving) you seldom - if ever - want to be coasting. In addition, dragging the engine back up to 6K RPM over and over as you work your way back toward first gear seems like unnecessary mechanical wear...
Well, I don't downshift that aggressively with the revs. Usually around 3,000, downshift and coast/break a bit, then the revs come in around 4 - 4,500.
It first came up when the IMS failures weren't happening on the heavily tracked aggressively driven cars like you would expect, but on the ones that were babied. Turns out the variocams were designed to excel at high RPMs, which is why you feel the nice boost 3k+, but not so much at lower RPMs.
A good analogy is like trying to take off in 3rd gear. It's a lot of stress on the transmission initially and then becomes less as you speed increases. The engine is the same way with RPMs. The higher the RPMs, the more time it spends in its sweet spot. So general rule of thumb is to keep it above 3k RPMs. It's a helluvalot more fun once you do anyways.
Actually he meant parachutes, like in drag racing ya know!
There are some aftermarket units available...
If you decide to use this method, be sure you only do so in properly-designated car parachuting zones.
Also, it is crucial that you are attired properly when deploying parachutes:
I blip downshift to rev match the RPM's, assuming that save the clutch and wear and tear on the transmission. I don't really heel toe it, any advantage if your not on the track?
My mechanic said something similar, but mine sees a fair amount of traffic. I do question really it's better to keep the RPMs up even when it's in first gear in stop and go traffic. I asked him specifically about this and he didn't change his answer.
He suggested keep it under 3K when warming up, and upshifts should be done in the 4-6K range.
I started practicing rev matching downshifting about six months ago with my 330CI and 986 Boxster. I'm pretty good at it now but find the 996 harder. I find I have to depress the accelerator further than the other cars. Anyone else experience this?
Downshifting puts the braking/drag at the rear, helping to keep the car aligned with desired direction of travel in conditions that warrant.
Not especially needed with ABS....
Think of all the heat your brakes generate instead being transferred through your clutch and transmission. The only real case for compression braking is on steep downhill grades, and even then you should be rev matching your downshifts and just using the engine braking to hold speed.
Or not. These clutches are pretty solid and if done properly down shifting places no additional wear on the them than any other gear change. Riding the clutch or dropping the clutch is what shortens their lifespan.