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THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHCorrect DME Version using Piwis
Leading reported evidence
Clean immobilizer and ecu removed, and looks good.the ecu/immobilizer connectors
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
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0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
The immobilizer and ECU removed, and looks good.The ECU/immobilizer connectors have been cleaned with spray.
Leading evidence: 'Clean immobilizer and ecu removed, and looks good.the ecu/immobilizer connectors' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check on immobilizer and ecu' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion · Original poster
Having in mind this is a 2002 not sure which pins to check on immobilizer and ECU.
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Suggestion
Is my next test to check the W-line signal, ECUtech engineer wants the K-line A2 Org/Blk wire removing from the ECU plug to do a scope check on the reloved wire and then the A2 PIN, but removing the cable from the crimp does not look straight forward so is a W-line test best ?
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
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Suggestion · Original poster
Anyone that could guide me a bit which pins between immobilizer and ECU i should i check for open circuit?
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
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Suggestion
You need to use a scope to check pin 23 (W lead output) of the immobilizer for a signal when the ignition switch is cycled (#15).
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Suggestion
Is my next test to check the W-line signal, ECUtech engineer wants the K-line A2 Org/Blk wire removing from the ECU plug to do a scope check on the reloved wire and then the A2 PIN, but removing the cable from the crimp does not look straight forward so is a W-line test best ?
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Suggestion
The quickest repair by blocking the ports with Porsche OEM blocking plates, closing the opposite end of the port and changing the ECU coding seems like the best solution.
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31 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
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Is there anyone who can help with the information below:
The car is a 996 from 2002, so I assume it should have a DME 7.8? However, Piwis reads the following: from the extended identification menu
Code:
9x6_DME_M_5_2_2_10
and from the overview menu:
Code:
9x6_DME_ME7_8min_996_FL_LEV
. Is this correct or could it be that someone has manipulated the DME version?
Thx
Did you run a VAL ? You should always run a VAL when you first hook-up PIWIS, it will give you the part # for all the control unit plus the software numbers and the specif coding for each control unit...
The VAL will tell you the DME part # plus the software versions of the DME plus any coding ( ROW vs LEV ... a Tip vs 6-speed ect.....)
Thank you for the information 996love and Porschetech3, I will check the VAL tomorrow.
If it can show errors because it’s not a genuine Piwis, that could explain the situation, however will then know as soon as i have checked VAL..
I am troubleshooting why the car won’t start, and someone mentioned a software issue, so I’ve started investigating that possibility as well.
After all fault codes were cleared, Piwis still shows the following codes:
DME 1601
: CAN Timeout Instrument Cluster (no signal)
Alarm System 21
: W Line (DME - immobilizer) Open Circuit
49 K-Line
: Short circuit to ground
It should be noted that the car starts when an OBD reader is connected.
You could imagen that if it starts with OBD reader connected it would start if bridging OBD pin 4 and 5 but that does not enable it to start.
Also, the immobilizer looks fine, with no corrosion.
Where would I begin/continue troubleshooting?"
I think i would investigate the k-line being shorted to ground. I wonder if having the scaner connected somehow fixes that issue? Just a guess.
Also ecudoctors can run a diag on thw dme, immibilizer and key to verify they all work properly. May point to a wiring or pin issue? All just a guess.
The car starts and runs with a generic ODB tester plugged in but doesn't without it ??? That's a new one !!!!
I agree with Dejeeper, the shorted K-line is very suspicious as in the CAN time-out on the instrument cluster....
I think I would start by unplugging the instrument cluster, it should run without the Instrument cluster ( the instrument cluster may be killing the system)
That can time out message in PIWIS gives me nightmares from my tip to 6 swap 🤪
Do you have an aftermarket head unit?
Also, I can confirm the car will start and drive without a cluster 😉
::::edited to make sense::::
Hi,
Update
The cluster has been removed, but the car still does not start. However, it does start with the cluster removed when a simple OBD reader is connected.
For Piwis, I assume the preVAL OBD is the one that needs to be collected?
In Usermode V, the overview table for SW and HW is empty. Should I be using a different mode, or am I looking in the wrong place?
Interesting. Faults 21 and 49 are both alarm faults. 21 results in: "No engine start possible" and 49 results in: "no communications with PST2 (PSWIS)"
Attached are the trouble shooting steps for those two faults. I'd work through them and see where that takes you.
Short update and follow up questionAfter resetting all the error codes again using Piwis, the one below still appear.
The immobilizer and ECU removed, and looks good.The ECU/immobilizer connectors have been cleaned with spray.
Having in mind this is a 2002 not sure which pins to check on immobilizer and ECU.
Anyone that could guide me a bit which pins between immobilizer and ECU i should i check for open circuit?
For example
https://rennlist.com/forums/attachme...565d1737429083
mention pin 88 which i can not find
DME: code P0513 Immobilizer (no signal)
Alarm System (I48):
Code 21 W Line (DME - Immobiliser), open Circuit
Code 49 K-line, Short circuit to ground
Most likely it's a bad immobilizer with latent water damage. The EGAS DME ECM rarely fails unless unless the O2 heater wires short to the DME ECM ground pins.
Post #6:
Alarm System 21
: W Line (DME - immobilizer) Open Circuit
Thank you
@systemsc
Since the circuit board looks good visually (see below) I would like to rule out cables and connectors as the cause of the issue. Could you please give me any clues about which connectors/pins I should check or eliminate? , could you elaborate a bit more on "The EGAS DME ECM rarely fails unless the O2 heater wires short to the DME ECM ground pins"? How can I verify this?
You need to use a scope to check pin 23 (W lead output) of the immobilizer for a signal when the ignition switch is cycled (#15). This enables the DME ECM to crank (#50) & run the engine.
Since your scanner can access the DME ECM, the K-line signal thru the immobilizer is developing the W-line signal to the DME ECM, but the immobilizer is not providing the engine "run" data.
"Post #6:
Alarm System 21
: W Line (DME - immobilizer) Open Circuit"
Hi All,
Sorry to Jump in, i have had a similar fault and the ECU was in a poor state water ingress(see Pic) 996 C2 2004
On the day it went wrong the roof came down the alarm went off and the lights started to flash, i was able to put the hard top on for protection and was able to start the car.
I then started to remove all the carpets as soaked through wet, whilst there i thought take out the interior and clean up, so chairs out, Centre console etc at this point the car would run as i had engine running to keep me warm whilst removing as happened in December
I then removed ECU and it was bad so tried a clean with soft brush and a circuit board cleaner and on putting back and plugging back in NO CRANK.
I've had it now sent out for repair at ECUtech and i have had it back and i still cant cant get the car to crank.
I have 12+V on B7 and B8 of the ECU black plug
i have a trace signal on the A2 K-line please see pics, is the signal what i would be expecting to see.
Is my next test to check the W-line signal, ECUtech engineer wants the K-line A2 Org/Blk wire removing from the ECU plug to do a scope check on the reloved wire and then the A2 PIN, but removing the cable from the crimp does not look straight forward so is a W-line test best ?
If i had PiWiS and plugged into car would this tell me that the ECU was working or not instead of carrying out the little tests, the tests i'm carrying out are on behalf of ECUtech who repaired the unit which seems to not be working in the car.
Regards
Avfcbez
Ya, thats how my piwis3 works also. In the initial preliminary menu its 5.2, then when narrowing down/tic the exact operation choices it goes to the exact DME. My assumption is the piwis covers all 996 dme so before the exact repair/coding is called for, the read out is in 996 'general terms'...?
I'm not familiar with it enough, but probably somewhere in there that will give the exact vehicle data, if one asks for it correctly....
jmo
If you got unlimited cash, ya you're right, but real piwis 1 cost what,,, $$$..? and a clone piwis 1 cost much much more than our forum thread's piwis 3 for $75. Might be hard too even find a decent easy to use clone piwi$ 1 or 2.
Those might work better on early 996. So far have seen no reports here from the $75 piwis 3 causing "corrupted immobilizers".
Have read reports of the $75 piwis 3 coding new key fobs to the immobilizer,, among other successful coding... My $75 piwis 3 calibrated my convertible top perfectly....
When you say "early cars", do you mean 5.2 dme or 7.8, or do you mean on all 996 dme...?
.
Thanks for explaining that...
Any chance you have a antiquated, not Porsche dealer supported or used any longer,,, clone or workable copy of piwis 1 or 2 you could share with the forum for our 25 year old cars...?
Be nice to see how well this old piwis 1 works on our old 996.
PIWIS II software is available for free, the instructions are on planet9 porsche forum. That�s what I use in my 996 (I still prefer the PIWIS II over my III for my 996 and Panamera).
Just need to buy the interface.
LOL, haven't heard that term since my days at MIT...
I'm at Glamis Cali frequently during dune season. Could make the trek to La, what you got in mind...?
Drive your Porsche here, and I can demo the my Porsche testers, Hammer, PST2, PIWIS 1, & PIWIS 2. You can always come to the LA Porsche Lit show;
https://lalitandtoyshow.com/
We also have the Porsche Experience Center in LA. Also, the best mountain roads for a Porsche drive.
Hello All, I want to bump this thread and ask about the process to update/change the DME on my 2004 X51 to an ROW in order to block off the EGR ports...? What tool/software is needed? Which DME configuration?
The backstory on this is a crack has been discovered on the 4-6 bank head. Its in the EGR port and leaking coolant through the exhaust. The issue is that the 4-6 head is not available from Porsche and just no longer around period. I have been actively searching for 2 years both in the US and Europe, sent several emails to Porsche to which they have no answers, pretty sad. I have talked with a few people including LN engineering, Hoffman Heads and numerous M96 gurus. The quickest repair by blocking the ports with Porsche OEM blocking plates, closing the opposite end of the port and changing the ECU coding seems like the best solution.
Additionally, the car in question is the famous 40th AE with just shy of 500k miles (498,100). I am doing whatever is needed in order to get this to 500k and beyond without opening or rebuilding this engine.
Thanks all.
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