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YOUR RESEARCHHelp! My car is calling for Jake Raby - "Drive to Workshop"
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furthest back
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Reported cause
I always get the cylinder numbers wrong but it was the furthest back on the left side.
Help! My car is calling for Jake Raby - "Drive to Workshop"
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Leading evidence: 'furthest back' (1 discussions report identifying this cause; no attributable repair resolution). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'furthest back' (1 discussions; 1 report identifying it and 0 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Replace because of a cracked expansion tank' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
My tank was just recently replaced because of a cracked expansion tank.
Help! My car is calling for Jake Raby - "Drive to Workshop"
Replace of the coils anyway as they were original
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I replaced all of the coils anyway as they were original.
Help! My car is calling for Jake Raby - "Drive to Workshop"
Replace rms and aos
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
The RMS and AOS was changed out during the IMS solution install.
Help! My car is calling for Jake Raby - "Drive to Workshop"
Replace six coils and plugs
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Help! My car is calling for Jake Raby - "Drive to Workshop"
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Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
22 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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Generation: 20261026T142254Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
Talk about timing and coincidence. Today, I signed up for The Knowledge Gruppe's M96 class. I was excited about it to say the least and so I wanted to celebrate by taking my 996 for a nice ride this afternoon. I haven't been able to drive the car much since Thanksgiving because of the constant stormy, nasty weather. I started the car and it seemed to idle a little rough. As I began down the road, I get a warning on the dash (see picture) and the CEL came on and then started blinking. I noticed the indicator said "Drive to Workshop". I think my car is a little anxious about Raby's M96 class? I tried to tell it that the class doesn't start today, but I guess it still wants to begin immediately.
(painfully laughing)
Seriously, any help or advice would be appreciated. Unfortunately, I don't have one of those fancy Durametric. Oh, and the car didn't make any bad noises and there was no leaks or smoke out of the tailpipe. Thank you!
All opinions will be just that with out codes being pulled. My opinion would be if the lights flashing, a cylinder is down, most often caused by a coil or plug.
Agreed.
Very likely a cracked coil pack especially in damp weather.
I'm in CA amd 2 months gas should not be a problem. Not sure if your gas is similar.
There's a ton of things that can lead to this. Did you feel the engine shaking just before, or when this happened?
Since you don't have a diagnostic tool, i'd disconnect the battery over night, and the code will likely be cleared when you reconnect it. If the light goes out, it may come back, so pay close attention to what happens, especially before the light returns.
a partially fouled MAF sensor, old coil packs, and etc are all probabilities.
Ok, thank you 808Bill. I have access to a cheapo OBD2 scan tool like what they sell at Harbor Freight. Would that work for this type of problem or should I not waste my time and find someone with a Durametric tool?
Your cheapo should be fine for this situation. If we were talking needing to watch live data or abs, airbag or other modules you would need something better. A code from Mr. Cheapo scanner will give us a hell of a starting point.
Thank you for responding Jake! I have limited records on the car. The certified installer that did my IMS Solution said that the coil packs were factory original because they had the Porsche logo on them??? I think he said the OEM coil pack replacements don't have the logo? Did I hear him correctly? He did the pre-qual and said his Durametric showed they were performing to factory specs, but he did say it would be smart to have them changed out in the near future because of the age of the car. The RMS and AOS was changed out during the IMS solution install. It was done back in September.
When I took the car out it was idling rough and yes, it had kind of a shaky feel going down the road. It didn't sound right either.
The coils do sound like the originals.. It may still have the original spark plugs too... The coil packs are a good place to start, since the issue occurred when it was damp.
Ok, thank you Jake. I appreciate your advice! (and everyone else too) I'll plan to have this done. The certified installer did warn me to change them out as soon as possible because of the age of the car. I was just hoping to make it a little longer. In the meantime, I'll get the car scanned and report back.
Defintiely read the codes but the important thing to note is it says "drive to workshop". Keep in mind if it was something serious this would not be what it would say. Good Luck!
Had this a couple months back. Changed out the coil packs and all good. Code 0301, misfire cly one and then a 0327 Knock sensor. Plugs and packs. What a pain the butt job that was!
Same problem for me too on a rainy day. Next day, no rain, no problems and no codes. I changed all six coils and plugs. They were original. Five of the six had small cracks and one of them was in really bad shape. Here's a photo of the left side coils. There's also a close up of the back side of that really bad one. I always get the cylinder numbers wrong but it was the furthest back on the left side. I also discovered that the expansion tank overflow hose was directly above this coil. My car had the original expansion tank cap so it may have been weeping out coolant and that's why that coil was so much worse that the rest. Anyway, I'm glad they're all new. The only difficult coil to get to was the right rear.
Thank you all for your advice.
I was able to get the car scanned and here are my codes:
P0300 - random/multiple cylinder misfire detected
P0301 - cylinder 1 misfire detected
P0305 - cylinder 5 misfire detected
Looks like coil packs are in my near future. Anything else I should be concerned about?
Wow! You just hit on something that I didn't think about. My tank was just recently replaced because of a cracked expansion tank. Of course, it's been leaking consistently since October. I wonder if the constant leaking fluid dripping on the coils could have caused some of this problem? Well anyway, it's obvious these need to be replaced. I've changed out coil packs on "normal" cars, but never a 911. I might need some assistance. I guess it was a great time to sign up for Jake Raby's M96 class! Again, thank you all!
Bingo. I had a misfire on cyl 1 after changing my coolant expansion tank. Quite a bit of coolant can leak out of the hoses while doing the R&R. In my case, the coolant eventually worked its way down into to the spark plug even though the coil was in good shape. I replaced all of the coils anyway as they were original. I don't recall how long after the tank replacement I got the misfire code, but it wasn't immediately afterwards. It took awhile for the coolant to work its way in. The shaft of the coil was just slightly wet in a couple of spots when I checked. There were no cracks in any of them.
If you don't know the age of your spark plugs, change them as well. Getting to the coils is 95% of the labor.
Yes, but unless you did the replacement yourself, you don't know if they spilled coolant in the process. New plugs and coils will cost less than $300 for the parts and you'll know where you stand with them going forward. The DIY is a bit of a pain but doable. Remove the mufflers and rear wheels and it's not that bad.
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