DIY Transmission Pull: What Tools/Parts??

I've been searching the archives but can't find a complete list of parts/tools. So, I'm dedicating this thread to be the one-stop location for people in the future to look to for a list of all the parts and tools needed to do the following from start to finish, step by step: Pull a 996 transmission (for a rebuild) Replace a clutch (and a few other odd jobs) Install an LN IMS upgrade. (There are good DIYs out there from lots of folks, but I want to make one starting from scratch with my C4, and include a full list of parts and tools). It's not that the jobs are really that hard, I just don't want any surprises that cause delay after delay (my buddy's lift I'm going to use is 45 minutes from my house). And I don't have service manuals. Problem: Syncros hosed, bearings starting to howl slightly under load, pretty sure (due to symptoms) pressure plate fingers have broken recently, want IMS upgrade, and to change out anything "easy to get to while in there" for insurance. I'm adding RMS to the list based on recommendations to do it on my (early) engine. Going to: Pull the transmission and ship it off to get rebuilt (where to is still TBD) New clutch New flywheel (and/or check existing one using Doug's spec posting below!! Sweet!) New slave cyl Fork upgrade? (If you have a creaking sound coming from down there, do it. See Doug's posting below. Sweet again!) New LN IMS upgrade New AOS Spark plugs and tubes New RMS And??? Need: What specialty tools will I need? (weird Torx sizes, extra long socket extensions, extra large/small sockets, etc.) What parts do I need that aren't obvious or that most people don't even know exist (torx 'case bolts', 'balance shaft cover bolts', one-time-use flywheel bolts, etc.). Basically I would like to know ANYTHING at all that someone will need to do the jobs to avoid delays. I'm starting this in January but want to buy all the parts I need before hand. I will post step by step pictures as the job progresses. I will combine all of the info from all the posts, and I will combine them all into one master list below. Thanks everyone. Parts Needed: 1) Spark plugs 2) Spark plug tubes 3) Tube O-rings 4) LN IMS Kit 5) Clutch Kit (includes TO bearing and lube) 6) Fork upgrade (if you have creaking, do it. PN's below in Doug's post) 7) AOS 8) Slave cylinder (I'm doing this for insurance; it's easy to get to while the trans is out) 9) Torque (angle) wrench, or paper degree wheel for torque-to-yield flywheel bolts. (SWEET cheap tool pictured in a post below!) 10) Flywheel (or check your existing one using Doug's specs he posted below) 11) Flywheel bolts 12) New (PTFE) RMS - 99710121201 13) Tools Needed: 1) Clutch centering tool 2) Triple XZN socket 3) Motive brake bleeding system (I have one and it works awesome) 4) Lots of socket extensions (1/4" and 3/8") 5) Wobble/U-joint extensions (1/4" and 3/8") 6) 16mm impact wobble socket (whatever size your impact wrench is) 7) Review Shark Attack's IMS DIY thread he made, it's pretty awesome 8) Transmission Rebuild Shops Recommended (Preferably driving distance from San Diego, but I can always crate and ship) 1) G-Box in Boulder, CO 2) California Motorsports (Bobby Hart was possibly the first guy in the country servicing that gearbox and has done more of them than anyone else) 3) Black Forest 4) Hergesheimer 5) TIPS from posts further down: 1) Drop the engine down a few inches so the nut on the engine mounts is near the bottom (but not too far so the engine falls - put a jack under the engine case "nubs" front and back to prevent a big oops). This will help access top most bolts. I used many very long extensions with a swivel adapter on a regular socket, worked fine. Lowering the engine an inch or two also helps access to AOS and the slave cylinder. 2) And if you're using someone's lift, clean up after yourself and leave everything in better shape than you started with!

Spark plugs and tubes.

I asked a Porsche tech about a rebuild of a the 996 6-speed and he said you'll need a 40 ton press. Of course you do not have to buy one but know an automotive or general machine shop nearby that has one and will take in outside press work. Sincerely, Macster.

You have a PM.... Buy Sachs sports clutch kit w/disc, PP, and TO bearing. IIRC it's about $500...

Wayne has two really great DIY's for the IMS and clutch job over on pelican's site. They are for a 986, but the procedure is identical once you have the transmission out. IMSR: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...ft_Bearing.htm Clutch: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...ANS-Clutch.htm For the trans drop itself, first piece of advice I have for you is to google "996 workshop manual". As for special tools, you'll need a clutch centering tool (buy one cheap), a flywheel lock tool (you can make one cheap) and a triple XZN socket to remove one of the trans bolts. Other than that standard affair wrenches, lots of extensions, etc. You need to stretch the new flywheel bolts, but you can use a degree wheel printout if you don't have a torque angle gauge. For the IMS, you need the tool kit LNE sells. It contains the extraction and insertion tools as well as the cam lock tools. For the RMS, you need a custom tool to ensure proper seating. My favorite DIY tool is from Kyle's excellent transmission drop and IMSR thread: You should read the whole thread: https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...t-bearing.html And here is how to make the RMS tool: http://reutterwerk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18315 If you are doing the slave cylinder (why?) you need to bleed it, which requires a Motive 0100. And the best way to do that is here: http://www.pedrosgarage.com/Site_3/B...26_Clutch.html Best of luck.

Awesome, thanks guys. Logray, thanks for all the links, those are great. I will definitely try to find the workshop manual online. My RMS isn't leaking and I'd rather not fool with it since I know quite a few people who replaced a non-leaker only to get a leaker. But, I'm open to it so I'll research out the tools. So I'm guessing that the flywheel bolts are torque-to-yield types (one time use) where Porsche's torque spec is in degrees of rotation after some initial torque is set with a regular torque wrench?

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Oh, here's a gearbox rebuild shop: http://www.gboxweb.com/service.html Yes, the flywheel bolts are one time use, the spec is in Wayne's clutch writeup IIRC, 19ft lbs then 120 degrees you use a regular torque wrench for the first step, but the torque spec is angle, not ft lbs, you can continue to use the torque wrench and ignore the click stop for the angle. It really isn't hard to find, in my post I give exact instructions.

If yours is the original RMS, the newest PTFE RMS is really much better than what you have. "Torque (angle) wrench," torque angle gauge $10 autozone:

6) Throw-out Bearing comes with clutch kit, along with some lube 7) Fork upgrade??? i saw the tsb, but unless you have the problem, not sure if you need to spend the cash. that being said iirc it is like $30

Ugghh, I just dropped my 2002 C2 6 speed this weekend. I will try and make a list of what I used. Where is the link for the "sports" clutch kit? The sport pressure plate and sport disc is $$$

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Contact wholesaler SSF. They have a Phoenix warehouse at: 3906 E. Broadway Rd. Suite 101 Phoenix, AZ 85040 [phone removed]

Thanks folks, the list and information are all growing! Anything you can think of, Cardsrule, send it my way and I'll add it to the list.

JR, Thanks for the tip but I am very familiar with SSF. That price you quoted is for the stock set up, I was hoping you have a line on a "sports" set up. peavynation Don't worry about not having the manuals. They really don't help too much in this situation. I can fax the pages to you if you would like (I don't have a scanner). Just take your time and you will be ok. You will need an 16mm impact wobble socket for the top bolt on the trans, it sucks. I will try and take some photos tonight for you.

Here are a few TSBs in JPG format: 1) clutch fork 2) dual-mass flywheel check

Speaking as lift owner: Generous supplies of the owners favorite libations in a high quality format. Replacement of any shop supplies. Tools cleaned and put away at the end of each session. Shop cleaned, spare parts and garbage removed at the end of each session. Consider a tool donation to the shop of something specialized to the project(s). Good luck and have fun!

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Drop the engine down a few inches so the nut on the engine mounts is near the bottom (but not too far so the engine falls - put a jack under the engine case "nubs" front and back to prevent a big oops). This will help access top most bolts. I used many very long extensions with a swivel adapter on a regular socket, worked fine. Lowering the engine an inch or two also helps access to AOS and the slave cylinder. The latest RMS part number is 99710121201. Oh, did I say how much easier this all is with the engine out!

Contact California Motorsports regarding the rebuild. Bobby Hart was possibly the first guy in the country servicing that gearbox and has done more of them than anyone else. A lot of the POC oriented race shops use him for their work because of the specialized nature of this particular box. You might also try Black Forest and Hergesheimer locally. I think both those shops have started working on this box in the last year or two.

Check out my ims replacement tread. iirc, a good socket set, phillips screwdriver and some good allen wrench sockets will get it out. I used a trans jack from harbor freight. Oh and some pretty high jack stands.

Thanks guys, appreciate the info, PN's, threads, etc. Doug, thanks for those scans those are awesome, and it turns out my clutch IS creaking! I always wondered what that was! Lol! Now I can fix it once and for all.

Can someone tell me the torx size for the flywheel bolts. It's bigger than 50 and smaller than 60 (I don't have any between those sizes)?

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Could be a torx 55.

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Bingo.