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THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHDurametric cab,e purchase
Leading reported evidence
Use electronics
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
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0
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1
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I try to stay away from purchasing used electronics.
Leading evidence: 'Use electronics' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check cam shaft deviations' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion · Original poster
With my car having 80k miles and 2504 hours of run time.
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15 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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Generation: 20261027T070717Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
Guys,
Anyone know the best place to buy one of these? If I have to pay the $300 (on Durametric's site) I will, but wanted to see if there are other sellers out there. Also, is ICarSoft just/almost as good a product?
Cheers.
I don't know anything about ICarSoft. Durametric is the best, but does require the cable to work. Don't buy a used cable off EBay. Probably broken. Buy a cable from Durametric and move on.
They do show up in the classifieds from time to time for around $250. That said, I was never able to snag one...I broke down and spent the extra $50 and bought one from Durametric (of course one showed up in the classifieds about a week later...)
Here is one for $240.. He says it is not registering VIN's so that would be nice !! oops sorry, it's in a closed group, you would have to message him or join 997 Renlisters group
https://www.facebook.com/TheGasDoc?fref=gs&__tn__=%2CdC-R-R&eid=ARCuIXbedyhHbiOgncb4D4CiH_6uuDlYKaugoCz02jMiwKDARxrzWHWHyLWml8eTyE SDfFIsDB5eYa_F&hc_ref=ARRgd7V98_5Z3THtzZNg89ghiwV614ngSS2jImljCRvHBu2bdQ mGu8w6ZnihFFKJ3W0&post_id=1949188411855077&dti=433820786725188&hc_locati on=group
Durametric arrived today. Pretty neat tool. Just started with it but was able to check for any stored codes (there were none), 64 range 2 over revs (over 1,000 hours ago), camshaft deviations were 0 on position 2 and -3 on position 1, the exact same numbers that the car had 2 years and 9k miles ago when I bought it and had the PPI done.
With my car having 80k miles and 2504 hours of run time. Average speed over the car�s lifetime is 31.98mph.
64 �range 2� over revs (hitting the rev limiter). Breaks down to 64/6 (6 cylinders) = 10.66 revolutions at 7,200rpm = car hit the limiter for 0.0014 seconds. Occurred at 1,483hrs, so 1,483 x 31.98mph= 47,426 miles. So last time my car hit the limiter was 33k miles ago.
Since there are no real instructions included, what else can/should I be safely using this tool for?
I don't think the math is correct. There are two revolutions per ignition, so you would divide by 3, not 6, for a total of 21 revolutions. Dividing that by 8000 revolutions/minute (assumed average rpm over the rev limit) and then multiplying by 60 seconds per minute, I get 0.16 seconds.
You're basically in the same boat as I was. Bought the tool but nothing is broken at the moment to use it for. You just need to wait until you need it to pull a fault code, or activate a system for diagnostics. It can be used to cycle things on/off such as the radiator fans, etc. It can also be used to cycle the ABS pump (on PSM equipped cars) for bleeding the brakes. You can also check your cam shaft deviations.
One kind of neat thing you can use it for is graphing/recording various metrics as you're driving. I took my car for a spin and recorded engine speed, vehicle speed, throttle input (e-gas) and actual throttle position. I really didn't learn anything but it was fun to do.
Use the tool to document/base line ALL values. That way you will have a known GOOD value to compare to IF/WHEN you start to have a symptom or code to come up. Then you will not have to ask "what value should I be seeing?".. Very valuable information !!
