24 captured repliesDiscussion pagination complete · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
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YOUR RESEARCHFor the M96 brain trust - help!
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likely due
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Reported cause
Agree your oil pressure issue is likely due to a bad oil pressure sender.
Leading evidence: 'likely due' (1 discussions report identifying this cause; no attributable repair resolution). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'likely due' (1 discussions; 1 report identifying it and 0 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Clean though' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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I assume that's where it is coming from, it was replaced by FSI in 2013 about 30K miles ago during The IMS Solution install.
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Suggestion · Original poster
I tend to spend more time driving than cleaning though...
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Suggestion
I smoke on start every so often, as expressed by many other posts, but sides of origin change depending on which side is open for gravity seep.
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Suggestion · Original poster
Looks like I'm going to replace the oil sending unit.
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24 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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Folks,
most of you probably know more about the M96 than I do and I know some of you know a LOT about this engine. So I�m asking for suggestions/help/direction.
I suffered catastrophic failure to a 2003 996 C4 engine at 113,000 miles. I had it professionally rebuilt from a long block that was disassembled down to the crank. I�ve had it back for a year and a half and have about 4,000 miles on the rebuild.
A while back while driving at highway speed but not pushing it at all, it gave a warning beep, and oil pressure was reading flatline... for about a second and a half, and then read max for a while. I got it in the shop, and 3 days later after numerous tests, no problems found. Recently, these symptoms have become much more frequent: warning beep, no oil pressure reading for a second or two, then oil pressure reads max for a while before eventually acting normal again.
I�m thinking oil pressure sending unit. It�s not that $ or that hard to replace. It was not a component replaced in the rebuild. Thoughts from this group?
Now the second issue... I�ve noticed increased oil consumption. I�m using about a qt/1,000 miles. This seems high to me right after full rebuild. Should I be concerned? What diagnostic steps shoud I pursue?
To be honest, I cannot afford another rebuild (who am I kidding, I couldn�t afford the 1st rebuild 🤣
so I�m a little scared...
Scott
Arvada, CO
I would replace the oil sensor, and take a good look at the wiring while there.
Supposedly 1qt per 1K miles is not abnormal.
That's about what mine goes through and I don't have bore scoring nor a bad AOS.
I bore scoped mine a couple of weeks ago, and my manometer says the AOS is fine.
I'm leaking some oil from my RMS.
I assume that's where it is coming from, it was replaced by FSI in 2013 about 30K miles ago during The IMS Solution install.
But not enough for it to drip on my garage floor.
I also had a small leak from the oil feed line at the oil filter that I fixed a couple of weeks ago, so my oil loss might go down some.
Just wondering if you can share more details of your rebuild such as LN nickies or others?
Agree your oil pressure issue is likely due to a bad oil pressure sender.
Sending unit for sure.
Not necessarlity a �replace� item for a rebuild either - not even at the best shops.
Oil burn seems a bit high - but as others have said - also not terribly uncommon.
sure:
LN Nickes, JE 4L pistons (requires custom gasket - prob woulda done 3.8 in hindsight), Carrillo rods, ARP bolts, all new bearings, timing chains guides rails, IMS solution, headwork by Hoffman, new AOS... more but that�s off the top of my head. Built by a local guy who has done these builds before. In the end, not really cheaper than FSI, but I�m still pleased with the guy who did my work.
OP,
I have a 3.6-3.8 rebuild and burn oil too. Ring gap seals and gap tolerances are what I suspect. I smoke on start every so often, as expressed by many other posts, but sides of origin change depending on which side is open for gravity seep. I do believe the bigger bores are built with a little more clearance to preclude what happened previously with Lokasil bores, tight tolerances and our M96/97 oil circulation.
I built a 3.6-3.8 for a friend a few years ago, LN Nickies, JE pistons, Carillo Rods, Hoffman heads, ring gap dead on specs, new AOS, ect. It uses 1qt per 1k miles also, and smokes on start up. He has put 30k miles on it like that..
You folks are making me feel better about the oil consumption.
Looks like I'm going to replace the oil sending unit. Glad it's a relatively easy and inexpensive fix. Thanks for the input, folks.
Could this be contributed to oil ring gaps being too large? For my 101mm bore (3.4 to 3.8, 5 chain), I measured one ring at .028!
https://photos.app.goo.gl/6HJZBhSKSVKuBB2A7
rust. Rotors came with car. If you wash car and don't move it, this happens...
Oh, the nut is missing on fender liner because I'm detailing as the snow falls.😎
