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YOUR RESEARCHClutch Install Tips and Tricks
Leading reported evidence
Replace flywheel, fork, clutch, pressure plate, and transmission mount
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I recently changed my flywheel, fork, clutch, pressure plate, and transmission mount.
Leading evidence: 'Replace flywheel, fork, clutch, pressure plate, and transmission mount' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Replace flywheel, fork, clutch, pressure plate, and transmission mount' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I used a scissor jack from my wife's SUV and placed it in the jack tray of my lift.
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Suggestion · Original poster
I also recommend using a 1/2" drive torque wrench to retighten the hex bolts as I wasn't strong enough to get to 60 ft-lbs with my shorter 3/8" drive torque wrench.
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Suggestion · Original poster
Use a 1/4" drive socket with a universal joint and a small extension in order to remove both bolts.
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Suggestion · Original poster
I also recommend using a 1/2" drive torque wrench to retighten the hex bolts as I wasn't strong enough to get to 60 ft-lbs with my shorter 3/8" drive torque wrench.
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Suggestion · Original poster
Once I had that angle in the ballpark, I used whiteout on the transmission jack adjustment screws as I knew I would initially lose that alignment in order to lift the trans into the body cavity.
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I recently changed my flywheel, fork, clutch, pressure plate, and transmission mount. There are many great DIY guides on here and RennTech, but I found a few obscure tips that weren't explicitly posted in those guides, but were also essential in helping me to properly complete the task at hand. Most of the other prominent DIY posts already have a lot of great info contained in them, so I won't rehash any of that here. I'm fortunate enough to have a 4-post lift and it was invaluable. To those of you completing this task with only jack stands, all I can say is that your feat is impressive.
1. Transmission Mount: I rented the AGA tool from another member. Put the replacement mount in the freezer for a few hours before installing it! Otherwise it will fight you the whole time, despite how much anti-seize you use.
2. Slave Cylinder Bolts: I hoped to reuse the slave if it was in good condition, and I also didn't want to re-bleed the clutch, so I initially unbolted the slave from the transmission and left it attached to the hardline. If taking this path, remove the two bolts that hold the hardline
mount
in place. This freed up just enough space to allow me to properly get a socket on the lower slave bolt. Props to Ahsai for this tip. Use a 1/4" drive socket with a universal joint and a small extension in order to remove both bolts. A wobble joint might work too. If you do detach the slave from the hardline (which is the path I recommend in retrospect), it requires a 13mm flare nut wrench (opposed to 11mm for the clutch and brake bleeder valves. Thanks Porsche...). You also shouldn't have to rebleed the brakes if doing this, only the clutch.
3. The hex bolts on the axle shafts were a royal pain because they are torqued to 60 ft-lbs and because the CV boots get in the way of the socket. I recommend using a 1/2" drive,
extended
8mm hex socket, preferably one rated for an impact wrench. I also recommend using a 1/2" drive torque wrench to retighten the hex bolts as I wasn't strong enough to get to 60 ft-lbs with my shorter 3/8" drive torque wrench.
4. I wasn't able to get a hydraulic jack centered under the engine to support it and I never want to support the engine via the oil pan. Also, I wanted to be able to fine tune the height of the engine to assist with unmating and mating the engine and transmission. I used a scissor jack from my wife's SUV and placed it in the jack tray of my lift. If not using a jack tray, you could also use a high lift jack stand with swivel height adjustment, similar to this:
https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200679438_200679438?cm_mmc=Google-pla&utm_source=Google_PLA&utm_medium=Automotive%20%3E%20Automotive%20Lif ts&utm_campaign=Rotary&utm_content=59592&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIqID_qvnK3gIVl oKzCh2giABvEAQYAyABEgLlUvD_BwE
.
5. Engine and Transmission alignment: To reinstall the transmission, first ensure that the transmission is in gear. This will allow to you slightly rotate the axle hubs on the transmission, which will in turn rotate the output shaft. This will allow you to tweak the alignment of the shaft as you try to get it inserted into the clutch disc.
6. Engine and Transmission alignment: I also tied a wrench to a string (as I didn't have a plumb line and bob) and hung it above the engine so that it touched the top front edge of the engine's transmission mating surface. This helped me eyeball the tilt angle of the engine, which then allowed me create the same angle of the transmission on the jack. Once I had that angle in the ballpark, I used whiteout on the transmission jack adjustment screws as I knew I would initially lose that alignment in order to lift the trans into the body cavity.
7. I used Porsche parts and the clutch kit didn't include the plastic alignment tool. Autozone carries one that works. It's listed as a 23 spline clutch alignment tool and is for Fords. Go figure.
https://www.autozone.com/drivetrain/...23544_126402_0
To be continued....
The OEM sachs clutch kit comes with the alignment tool, if I recall correctly. Then again, once you�ve done the job once, you have the tool for subsequent jobs. The sachs kit is pretty economical...
