12 captured repliesDiscussion pagination complete · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHRear main seal leak signs?
Leading reported evidence
Replace before
Suggestion or failed attempt
No successful repair reported for this finding.
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0
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1
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Read evidence and context
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Leading evidence: 'Replace before' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Replace before' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Replace oil, cut open the filter and drop the sump
Suggestion or failed attempt
No successful repair reported for this finding.
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Suggestion
Change the oil, cut open the filter and drop the sump to inspect.
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Suggestion
If so, you can't be sure of the bearing type until you identify the engine - even then it's not a slam dunk until you've actually looked at the flange (some early 2000-2001 M96-04's still used the dual row bearing).
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Suggestion
If so, you can't be sure of the bearing type until you identify the engine - even then it's not a slam dunk until you've actually looked at the flange (some early 2000-2001 M96-04's still used the dual row bearing).
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12 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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What are the signs to be looking for. I just noticed a bit more than a few drops in my garage floor. I can�t get to looking until the weekend. If anyone has an undercarriage picture that I might compare as a reference I would appreciate it.
Basically you will see oil dripping where the transmission and engine mate. Oil spots on the garage floor tell a lot. If the drips are dead center, just ahead of the engine, probably your RMS.
The RMS and the IMS leak from essentially the same place when the transmission is attached to the engine. Without removing the transmission there's no way to tell which one is leaking (it's possible they're both leaking) unless you can figure out a way to get a bore-scope in there.
Just a quick reply. It’s a 99, with a dual row bearing. Neither the bearing or rms have been done. The car was babied by the previous owner. I have driven in much more aggressively. Wondering if I am shaking things loose.
Is this a 1 owner car (previous to you)? If not, how many previous owners were there? The fact that (you think) it's a dual row bearing doesn't really make a difference. Is there any possibility the the engine isn't original? If so, you can't be sure of the bearing type until you identify the engine - even then it's not a slam dunk until you've actually looked at the flange (some early 2000-2001 M96-04's still used the dual row bearing). We all wish there were some hard and fast rules with these things but...there are not! Of course none of this means your engine is about to explode, but you should definitely do some digging and find out exactly what you're dealing with before you make any assumptions. Good luck
The person I purchased it from was not the original owner. It has passed hands a few times. It was identified as a dual row from the engine number, it is the original. Again, info from the previous owner. I have dug into the service history and I am skeptical about a few things now. I will get under it over the weekend and then I am planning to take it to Specialist in Sealy Texas. I knew getting a 996 was going to bring maintained needs. I love the car and the exterior is amazing. But I am worried (much driven by the forum) I fear am may fall into a money pit. Lol. But I am a glutton for punishment.
Just because it's a dual row car, doesn't mean it wasn't swapped out by one of the previous owners without it being reported. And, if it does still has the original OEM dual row bearing, that doesn't mean it won't fail. It's a more robust design over the single row bearing successor, but still, it will wear out in time and as Raby has wisely pointed out, it will shed twice the amount of metal. Think about it. However, the RMS have been well documented to be the source of oil leaks and so my bet it's time to get a new RMS replacement and since you must drop the transmission, you might as well spend the money and have the clutch and AOS replaced to save labor down the road.
It makes sense to do that. I did not know that about the dual row. From what I had read I was more secure about it than the well known ims. Yeah, it makes sense to do the bearing, AOS, RMS and clutch all while in there. It would give me some piece of mind.
not sure what I dread more...a failed engine or my wife saying...I told you so about buying an old car...ugh.
Ha! As you know by now, it's not just "any old car" - they grow on you very quickly! The key to keeping these things "affordable" (which in itself is highly subjective) is doing your homework and prioritizing jobs according to mechanical importance! In other words, take care of the engine and drive-train first, safety issues (brakes, steering, suspension) a close second and "shiny bits" (i.e. show stuff) last. Do as much as possible yourself and you'll save 35-50% (or more) in labor and parts cost. Your first best investments will be "101 Projects for your 996", Bentley's 996 Maintenance Manual, and The Knowledge Gruupe Torque guide. Obviously, there are some specialty tools that you'll need for specific jobs but a good basic tool chest (Metric) will get you through most jobs. In lieu of tools and a decent work-space a healthy bank account is in order! Good Luck
Consistent service history is the key.
Change the oil, cut open the filter and drop the sump to inspect. Send in an oil sample and start tracking it to see what wearing.
Then drive the hell out of it!
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