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Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHClutch failure
Leading reported evidence
Lubricate since i've owned it
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
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1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
My pivot ball has been un-lubricated since I've owned it.
Leading evidence: 'Lubricate since i've owned it' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check bottom of the fork' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
Additionally, my clutch behavior has changed completely.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
When I changed the plugs on my car, I saw that one of the ignition coils was being held in placed with a sheared screw.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I used 00004330573 (amber, thick) on the spline and all metal surfaces.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
For some reason it looks like Porsche calls for the MPO paste to be used on the throwout tube and clutch fork and to use the 3EP grease on everything else.
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Suggestion
For some reason it looks like Porsche calls for the MPO paste to be used on the throwout tube and clutch fork and to use the 3EP grease on everything else.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
For some reason it looks like Porsche calls for the MPO paste to be used on the throwout tube and clutch fork and to use the 3EP grease on everything else.
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
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Suggestion
Once I had that in the ballpark, I used whiteout on the trans jack adjustment screws as I would initially lose that alignment in order to lift the trans into the body cavity.
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35 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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Just wanna share with you since it's not typical. Clutch is 13yrs/70k old.
The pivot ball has snapped off, the clutch fork has dug into the throwout bearing and it's scraping the pressure plate spring fingers.
The pressure plate is like new (other than the scrub marks). The disc is like it has 70% life left. The flywheel surface looks great and will spring back left and right when rotated off center. However, it rattles so I'm getting a new flywheel.
So what's your guess? My guess is no lube was applied on those parts. I only found lube on the input shaft spline and nowhere else. Don't you just love dealer's work?
This is how that part is supposed to look like when new.
This is what's left as that mushroom head. Competely snapped off.
See how the fork destroyed the throwout bearing. Don't you just love plastic parts?
Note where the fork rubs against the pressure plate fingers at 8 o'clock.
See where the spring fingers are rubbing against the fork.
No hot spots and the surface is completely smooth and flat all around. It's junk though as it rattles inside.
Wow that sucks. I remember reading somewhere that you're actually not supposed to lube that piece - BUT I have not verified. When I reassembled mine I did put some grease on it and so far no ill effects.
Did the piece break off or just the rubber tip come off? When I was playing with it I found that even when resting the pressure plate may be pushing the release bearing slightly and keep the fork up against that post + the slave cylinder on the opposite side. I didn't expect there to be lateral force on it, just direct pressure against it to counter-act the slave cylinder on the other side.
The rubber tip was long gone and the mushroom head was ground to a ring! That broken post allowed the fork to twist a little to dig into one side of the throwout bearing and the pressure plate fingers.
PS: Alpine will be proud of my dirty hand
The first time I had the clutch/flywheel out (RMS~30k mi) I put a glob of hi temp grease on that pivot. The next time I was in there (IMS~57k mi) the seal had kept the grease in and most of the clutch dust out.
Not sure you can lay that failure on the dealer. Even if a dealer has been at the clutch that was approx. 13 years and approx. 70K miles ago.
Looks more like a metal fatigue related failure.
IMO, it's clear there was never grease on that ball pivot or anywhere else other than the spline. BTW, the WSM calls for applying grease to that ball socket.
I'm not too surprised anyway because for all the warranty work I did there, ALL of the jobs needed correction (by me) afterwards. True stories.
Did you grease the throwout bearing guide tube as well as the area of the clutch fork where the throwout bearing sits? If so, which grease did you use?
Yes, greased the spline and all the sliding/contact surfaces but don't go crazy. I used 00004330573 (amber, thick) on the spline and all metal surfaces.
This one should work too
Amazon
Amazon
I used this one for the guide sleeve 00004330557 (white, thin). You can also use this grease for all the o-rings on the car.
Thanks. For some reason it looks like Porsche calls for the MPO paste to be used on the throwout tube and clutch fork and to use the 3EP grease on everything else. I've got the 3EP in hand so I'll just go ahead and use that.
My pivot ball has been un-lubricated since I've owned it. Squeaks like a ****. Wish we didn't need to drop the trans just to lubricate it....
Been toying with the idea of machining one with an oil impregnated bronze ball.
Do you have the updated 997 fork? If not, it requires a new pivot ball that is longer and covered in rubber. That, along with the 3EP grease applied to it, might fix it.
Yeah, never understood why that ball is NOT lubricated from the factory. Makes no sense to me. In my third photo above, you can see the black rubber gasket that will actually keep the grease in pretty well (as noted by Frank in post #6).
BTW, one caution on the fork during install. Once you fit the fork onto the pivot, there's a weak spring holding it there. The spring is not very strong so be very careful not to disturb the fork and pop it out of the pivot pin unknowingly while you're mating the tranny to the engine.
That's whats in there now. That being said, it was installed in 2010. Given the age and miles, I suppose the squeak is understandable. I suspect my throw out bearing is the source of the noise I've been hearing, so I'm thinking I'm due for a clutch job soon.
Hmmm. Can you describe the said squeaking? Most of this is above my feeble mind, but gearbox has a decent amount of first gear rattle and there weird intermittent squeaks, not mention squeaks when I depress the clutch. Stock clutch and flywheel have 15K miles on them. Every shop tells me it's fine.
When I changed the plugs on my car, I saw that one of the ignition coils was being held in placed with a sheared screw. I had to call mobile welder to put weld a nut on it to remove it. The previous owners only serviced at the dealer.
Great advice. I�ve got two top bolts lined up on the transmission but haven�t gotten the output shaft to seat itself yet. Still trying to figure that out. But I�ll double check the bottom of the fork to make sure since it�s all still split apart.
You may have to rotate the engine from the crank bolt to get the splines to align. Long bolts with the heads cut off can make good guide pins (slot them so they are easier to remove with a screwdriver). Once definitely aligned, you may be able to slowly pull them together using spare bolts of various lengths.
Put the trans in gear and rotate both (assuming open diff) output flanges in clockwise or counter clockwise while pushing the trans. That worked for me, popped right in.
Job successful. I pulled the trans again to double check my output shaft alignment. I also hung a wrench from a string (as I didn't have a plumb line and bob). This helped me eyeball the tilt angle of the engine, which then allowed me create the same angle of the transmission on the jack. Once I had that in the ballpark, I used whiteout on the trans jack adjustment screws as I would initially lose that alignment in order to lift the trans into the body cavity. I hope to soon create a separate post with tips n tricks that I learned through this process.
Additionally, my clutch behavior has changed completely. The pedal is so much lighter, so much so that I bled the clutch twice with a Motive Power Bleeder as I assumed there must me air in the line. Zero bubbles came out the second time. The takeup on the clutch is now much closer to the floor than before and the car is so much more drivable.
