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Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHClamshell stuck open!
Leading reported evidence
Replace air/oil separator valve
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
My story goes, I went to put the top down after a shop replaced my air/oil separator valve.
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Suggestion
If you top up the fluid (use porsche approved or similarly rated) and it doesn't work, check for leakages, if you don't have leakages then your cylinders are good, those things are expensive!!
Leading evidence: 'Replace air/oil separator valve' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check leakages, if you don't have leakages' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
Probably needs recalibration since you used the hex key to manually move the top.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
Followed the Cabriolet Hydraulics instructions to a T and used the key to raise/lower my top a few times to work out the air in the hydraulic system.
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Suggestion
If you top up the fluid (use porsche approved or similarly rated) and it doesn't work, check for leakages, if you don't have leakages then your cylinders are good, those things are expensive!!
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Suggestion · Original poster
They ordered a $30 repair kit for it, but if that doesn't sort it out , we may need to source a new motor.
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Check leakages, if you don't have leakages
No successful repair reported for this finding.
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Read evidence and context
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Suggestion
If you top up the fluid (use porsche approved or similarly rated) and it doesn't work, check for leakages, if you don't have leakages then your cylinders are good, those things are expensive!!
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Suggestion
Right now the only way I can use the convertible top is using my Durametric and to manually pull open the clamshell, anyone fixed this repair kit in before?
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Suggestion
Ok reviving an old thread, I have the exact same problem did the exact same thing, changed out my cylinders for some used ones and the clamshell motor isn't working, the emergency lift mechanism is worn so I can turn it, so I found the repair kit it's part number 15 here
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Suggestion
Once you do this you will have to change the kit as it breaks off the connection with the motor cogs/splines, then you will have to calibrate the potentiometer to work at the right time with other moving parts.
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Rennlist: 1 discussions
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Outcome without a verified action link
My Indy did the work after they ordered the repair kit, so I'm not sure what they did, but it's all good now.
I recently changed out the hydraulic cylinders for my top mechanism on my 2000 C2 Cab. Followed the Cabriolet Hydraulics instructions to a T and used the key to raise/lower my top a few times to work out the air in the hydraulic system. Top would get stuck halfway open and then continue to open all the way. Then it would get stuck coming back up, again, about halfway, and then continue until latched. Clamshell was working fine each time - up when it needed to, and then down when not.
Then the clamshell got stuck open. And it's been like that ever since. Kinda looks like I've got a new wing!
I think (hope) I need to take it to my indy to get it recalibrated, but I don't want to drive it with the clamshell up to the shop.
Is there a way I can close the clamshell manually? I've searched all over the boards and haven't found any method which specifically allows me to close it manually, only the method allowing me to open it manually.
Any ideas?
Probably needs recalibration since you used the hex key to manually move the top. Either that or one of the microswitches on the top, side wings, or clamshell isn't working properly.
The hex key should allow you to move the clamshell. I think you change the rotation direction to make this happen. Read the manual to be sure.
On second look at the manual, it looks like you just push it closed from behind.
Thanks Frisbee for the insight. I saw this in the manual, but the only difference is my top closed on its own using the key and latched in automatically.
I went to push the clamshell down, but it doesn't budge.
I wonder if some switch somewhere isn't triggered since I was able to latch the top without using the Allen key?
So I went out to the garage and tried to push it down again, exerting a wee bit more force than last time. And it went down! And I didn't hear any bangs, cracks, or otherwise unnerving noises!
Next stop is off to my indy for a recalibration (hopefully - that's all it is). Keep everyone posted.
So good news and bad news. I took it to my indy and they said the clamshell is fine. Bad news is the reason the top gets stuck halfway up or halfway down is a problem with the top motor. They ordered a $30 repair kit for it, but if that doesn't sort it out , we may need to source a new motor.
Two questions to all of you:
1) had anybody heard of this repair kit fit the top motor? Any experiences with such as kit?
2) thoughts on a used vs refurbished motor vs a new one?
I am getting ready to tackle a complete top hydraulics system rebuild in a 2005 SL500. After researching companies online, it appears to me that Tophydraulicsinc.com is who I will use to rebuild the cylinders. I hope I don't have to rebuild the pump/motor also, but it appears they do that also. I called them to get cylinder removal instructions for the R230 Benz, and they had a tech email them to me within an hour, even though I haven't paid them a dime yet. So I was impressed with that customer service. I also see that they regularly contribute on various forums to help owners troubleshoot their cars.
I've got a small fluid leak on the drivers side coming from the cylinder on that side - been looking a trophy for a rebuild as well. Surprised how much the part is new!
Ok reviving an old thread, I have the exact same problem did the exact same thing, changed out my cylinders for some used ones and the clamshell motor isn't working, the emergency lift mechanism is worn so I can turn it, so I found the repair kit it's part number 15 here
http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-p...section=811-12
Does anyone know how to change this? Right now the only way I can use the convertible top is using my Durametric and to manually pull open the clamshell, anyone fixed this repair kit in before? Do I need to do anything in particular to get this working?
Sorry I can't offer any additional advice. My Indy did the work after they ordered the repair kit, so I'm not sure what they did, but it's all good now. Hopefully, someone with more knowledge will come along soon.
Thanks let's hope so, unfortunately over here there are no indy Porsche specialists, only general mechanics that do everything and I've been screwed over enough! We have one stealer in the entire country and there's no way I'm going to them! I've gotten this far with restoring this dream machine purely by rennlister'a posts and from other forums
996inTX did the convertible need recalibration after using the repair kit on the clamshell motor?
I have a similar problem as yours the clamshell motor spins but is not able to engage the drive unit to move the clamshell hinges via cables.
My theory is the the splines in the motor are stripped and is not able to engage the square drive.
Any help will be appreciated.
Cheers.
Did you at any point use the emergency open by using a hex tool? Once you do this you will have to change the kit as it breaks off the connection with the motor cogs/splines, then you will have to calibrate the potentiometer to work at the right time with other moving parts.
Thank you for the response kaychub.
Yes I did use the emergency open using the hex tool to lift the clamshell. So If I understood correctly just replace the square drive unit kit inside the motor (using the repair kit) and get it recalibrated at the dealership?
So no need to replace the complete motor?
Once you use the emergency open, it breaks the contact between the motor and the shaft that drives the driving mechanisms which the cables are attached to. If you are a DIY person you can probably do it, but it's not easy and you will need some guidance, its a bit finicky and you need to be careful especially when trying to calibrate the potentiometer which you have to do with a multimeter as Durametric doesn't have that function, not even the pro version which I bought.
This is the kit
https://www.ebay.com/p/Porsche-996-C...-on/1495796998
my car was a 997, same thing for the 997 also.
If you're not a DIY person I wouldn't get into it and you will definitely need Durmetric because it has the calibration function, but really that is all it is, you can test your motor by disconnecting it and testing with a battery to see if its working, I did that to confirm it was working. I really doubt that motor is bad though, or if you can hear the motor hum, then all it is is the kit.
Let me know if you want to DIY.
I do hear the motor humming so I am pretty confident motor is alright.
I think I will DIY. But I do not have the Durametric tool so will see if I would want to invest in it now or just go to the dealership for re calibration.
Ok great, note however that the hex screw that holds in the stud is reverse threaded, I had to cut the end of my stud with a metal saw to get it out smoothly, there's really no DIY with pictures to show how to install it, so I used the parts diagram below to show how and where each component goes in. Best of luck!
Hi Kaychub. I'm glad I found this thread and it was revived recently as I'm having issues with my clamshell motor as well. My story goes, I went to put the top down after a shop replaced my air/oil separator valve. The latch disconnects above the windshield and then everything halts. The clamshell motor clicks twice but does not move. The light on the dash flashes and says there is a "timeout" of some sort. I did use the hex tool to manually open the clamshell when I got the car home to investigate further but I'm now at a loss. By using the hex tool, do I need to also buy this kit to fix the motor? And what type of battery can I use to test the motor out of the car? Just a standard car battery? Any help is much appreciated! Car is a 2001 996.
Chad
Once you use the emergency open, you will have to change the kit. When you open the rear hatch, does the top open and close? There are potentiometers on the side of the hatch that send a signal to the cylinders to stretch out when they are engaged, so if the hatch doesn't open the roof won't go down, but if you have extended the hatch manually the roof should go up and down, if the roof is not opening and closing, you have two potential issues.
Is your soft top opening and closing with the rear hatch extended?
[Image-only post; no author-written text. Original image references:]
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlist.com-vbulletin/403x296/potentiometer_50dac83a12d28c0c51c9329501e572f0e9f437e8.jpg
I just tested it and unfortunately not. With the rear hatch manually opened, the hydraulic motor begins to run for a brief second and then stops. The top does not move. I know where the potentiometers are for the rear hatch. Can I test them with a multimeter at all?
The potentiometer for the rear hatch is by the motor in the picture above, the blue plastic thing, this is where the emergency open kit fits into.
What you want to do now is open up the back below the rear hatch while it is open, let me know if you know how to do this. Check the level of the hydraulic fluid in the hydraulic pump, if the fluid is low it sometimes seizes, I have read of a few people that simply topped it up and all was well again. Once you have your roof opening and closing then you can look into fixing up the kit, you can find a link up there in this thread, just get the part number from there and order the kit from the US.
If you top up the fluid (use porsche approved or similarly rated) and it doesn't work, check for leakages, if you don't have leakages then your cylinders are good, those things are expensive!! Pumps are a cheaper and you can find a working on on ebay.
Thank you for the help Kaychub, it is much appreciated. I've had to top off the fluid before so I do know how to get in there and check it. I'll order the kit and go from there!
Chad
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