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YOUR RESEARCHAdvice on suspension upgrades
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Install tomorrow
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I am having RSS Performance Motor Mounts installed tomorrow.
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^^^ These guys clearly don�t understand how to adjust coilovers!
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I will never track the car, so I'm not sure a coilover is necessary, but many recommend the PSS9?
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No one has mentioned it but if your going to the trouble of new dampers then replace these which are all the pieces that have rubber bushings.
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I finally had the chance to drive my 996 through the Tennessee mountains for a couple days. What a spectacular car! Needs some suspension advice. I want to tighten up the car some without a huge sacrifice to daily road driving. I am having RSS Performance Motor Mounts installed tomorrow. I then want to start moving to suspension pieces. Where is the best bang for the buck? I'm not trying to save money (nor trying to spend it needlessly) but rather trying to have a stiffer car for the mountain roads while still maintaining somewhat stock feel on normal roads. I will never track the car, so I'm not sure a coilover is necessary, but many recommend the PSS9? I also do want to lower the car slightly. It is currently sitting on 18" 997 5-spokes on stock suspension. What are your recommendations for struts/shocks and sway bars? Or coilovers?
Yes, I did that. Not quite as expansive as you indicate. A few specific to coilovers. And many related to tracking the cars. None specifically answered my question. So, thanks for the heads-up about the search feature. Very helpful......
inexpensive - sways and tires
moderateley priced - lowering springs and struts
full shebang - coilovers, sways, lighter wheels
you should include year and mileage
2003 996 with 40K miles. So I'm leaning towards lowering springs/struts. Car has brand new Continental Extreme Contacts on it. Don't want to change the wheels. They are Carrera III rims that if I'm not mistaken, are pretty light already. Could be wrong. Which springs/struts do you recommend for that happy ground between daily road use and mountain driving?
This kit accomplishes everything you are looking to do while saving quite a bit of loot vs. the coilover route. It appears to be out of stock at FCP, but I'm sure you could find it elsewhere. I have this kit on my car, as well as many other members. It achieves a nice stance and definitely tames the body roll and float in the front end.
Porsche Performance Strut and Coil Spring Lowering Kit - Bilstein B8 Performance Plus/H&R 22046130KT | FCP Euro
Float!!! Thats the word I was looking for to describe what I'm trying to get rid of from this past weekend drive in the mountains. That is great info and exactly what I was looking for. Thanks for the info! Beautiful car BTW. Here's mine.....
FGP had a ton of great 996 related videos. They are out of the UK so prices are not the same but still worth checking out. This one covers KW vs Ohlins
You Tube
OP - In the meantime try a lower tire pressure. If it�s only mostly you, 35 front/39 rear may help some. These cars are very pressure sensitive and sidewall flex between different makes of tire have a lot of influence on bounce/float.
For a mild lowering, Eibach Pro springs lower approximately 1� and match well with Bilsteins. For less than $700 you can get good springs and rear sway. Your sticks should still be good with 40k on them.
No one has mentioned it but if your going to the trouble of new dampers then replace these which are all the pieces that have rubber bushings. This will tighten things up.
Front
2 Lower control arms and the 2 upper strut mount.
Rear
4 upper control arm (2 each side) 2 lower control arms, 2 toe arms. The rear upper strut mounts don't seam to wear much in my opinion so I would skip those.
This is the exact point of my question!! This is info that I didn't see posted elsewhere either but makes perfect sense. I'm to much of a newbie to have come up with that on my own but will bring this up to my shop. Great advice!
I was fortunate to go from stock M030 suspension to with hardened tires to
PSS10 coilovers, H & R sways (used), wider wheels and new tires all in one week
added an inch to the stance, in addition to a very nice set-up by an reputable independent shop
probably right around GT height
I really wasn't interested in resale, originality or any of that stuff, just wanted the most out of the car
all done at 30,000 miles, to say the least the transformation is remarkable
'04 AE C2
I�m in a similar situation as you. 2003 C2 with 37k miles, original suspension, and looking into refreshing & improving my 20+ year old suspension. I also have the same Carrera wing on my car.
my findings have been to start with the �boring� bits, meaning they aren�t really upgrades, just updates to �refresh� the suspension ie. sway bar end links and control arms like someone else mentioned above. The rubber wears out over the years and the consensus is that OEM replacement of these worn components will improve your ride significantly. You can also go aftermarket and go with upgraded adjustable parts but they are $$$. I have read that for the majority of us, fresh OEM parts will make a nice difference in ride quality and handling. From there, springs/struts or coilovers will enhance your performance even more and offer lower stance, but if the rest of your suspension is worn out, I think that�s where to start. No sense in paying $$ for coilovers if the rest is shot.
Im pretty sure once a month i post these fcpeuro suspension kits in response to these suspension threads. Add some trw sway bar links and u will have all new rubber bits.
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/por...2&gad_source=1
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/clo...2&gad_source=1
OP this is the answer to what you need to complete your suspension refresh, besides coilovers or strut/spring kit. Could add sway bars as well. Certainly not an inexpensive ordeal but seemingly worth every penny from what I gather, in terms of transforming the handling of the car.
On the front kit i would delete the inner stearing rack parts to save some money. Never seen those parts really go bad and it saves a bunch of labor too.
^^^ These guys clearly don�t understand how to adjust coilovers! I can�t comment on the Ohlins, but re: The KW�s I can say from experience, that you can�t just �set them midway at 3� and expect good results. I spent well over 6 months* dialing in my V3�s to where I was happy with the compression feel (compliance vs stiffness) and the rebound (how quickly the shocks/struts rebound after compression). One of the points they make is that the V3�s felt slightly unsettled while hitting bumps through turns - reducing the rebound would negate this�
* Not that it should necessarily take this long - I just chose to live with each adjustment for a while through many different driving conditions before making any more adjustments.
In fairness to them, �upgrades� aren�t really their thing, we have plenty of independents far better versed in upgrades, and several really excellent suspension shops who specialise in nothing but suspension upgrades/installation and accurately setting up suspension systems for both street and track use.
To be fair I shouldn�t have disparaged their abilities. I should have just pointed out that it�s not a �just set it at a certain # and your done� sort of thing. It takes some real tweaking over time if you really want to get it right.
Suspension is a tricky thing. You could spend $1000 or $18,000. First get a budget, then tackle the most important things first. Coilovers could even be a bandaid to your issues.
Non sexy things like new bushings and sway bars can go a long way. Also don't sleep on alignment.
On my 2001 C4 Aero car, I have found the Bilstein B8's the previous owner installed to NOT BE SUFFICIENT for my driving style. Good luck on your quest for driving nirvana. Fortunately a lot of products for our cars.
Thanks, this is great advice. I have sent an email to my indie shop to start putting together a gameplan based upon budget, driving style and advice on this thread. Thanks for the heads up on the B8's. I consider my mountain driving to be very aggressive and I would like the suspension to be more tailored to that vs. city driving.
Interesting, everyone that has ever been in my car on track has remarked how compliant my setup is with the B8s. I also have don't drive it on the street so that may make thing different. I like the simplicity of them. They are paired with all solid bushings and a lot of negative camber front and rear. I would only consider changing them for a set of JRZ 2 way or better.
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