New 996 Owner. 1st Porsche.

I've been lurking here for sometime, figured it was finally time for my own little thread party. Porsche. 911. I've always wanted one. I've had a number of performance cars (E36/46 M3s, 300zx TT/350z, CTS-V, XKR, and more) but none scratched the itch longer than a year or two. I just sold my E60 M5 about a year ago to free up more time/funds for building the track car for last season only to have suspension/cage delays hold me up. We made a lot of progress over the winter and now that the season is upon us again I got the itch again. It was a lot easier than I thought convincing myself and half of my wife the truck was still needed for obvious reasons but couldn't be my DD. Even after a few weeks of research, I didn't even think a decent 911 was obtainable in my price range. I'm really picky and ran a lot of nationwide price alerts, I probably emailed/called a few of you here as I was ready to book a flight and drive back to Seattle with the best one I could find for the money...And then it showed up just a few days ago not even 5 minutes from my house. The 911 that checked most of my performance, options, price, and value boxes was no more than 10 blocks away. 2003 Porsche Carrera 4S Lapis Blue Metallic 105k miles 6MT All stock except for an expensive CF shifter and wheels: 19x9/19x12 Champion RS97s with PS2s PPI came through relatively clean: IMS/RMS/Clutch all done. All fluids recently replaced. Bose radio sucks but interior is pristine. Bushings/Mounts here and there need to be replaced. Brake pads/flush - Was doing this anyway for track season Alignment - Pulls slightly, also doing anyway Exhaust Hanger - Rattles slightly until warmed up. Was doing anyway. Idler pulley/Belt - Slight, intermittent whine. Was going to do this anyway. Next Steps: 1. Maintenance Engine - Oil/AOS/Cooling/Belts/Ignition/etc. Brakes - Pads/Rotors/Fluid/Lines Suspension - Coilovers/Bars/Arms/Bushings Safety - Buy a helmet. Put on your helmet. 2. Go Brakes/Suspension Exhaust/Intake Track Wheels Internets chats with you fine folk PCA/BMWCCA Autocross and HPDE Events Pro3 season starts in May! Parts Ordered: Engine: Belts/Pulleys/Plugs/Coils/Mounts/Alternator/AOS/WaterPump/Thermostat Performance: Intake installed/Headers/XPipe/Mufflers Suspension: PSS9/Eibach FR Sway Bars/GT3 Arms Brakes: Zim Rotors/EBC & Hawk Pads/SS Lines/Motul 600 Fluid/Ducts Other: Window Regs/New CDR23/Dension/V1 and some cool floormats. Also took the RS97s off and added some HRE 540s: Anyway, I'll keep this thread updated with progress. All of the parts arrive in the next two weeks and I'd like to have them installed by mid-March.

Looking great mate, and free stuff to the car is always nice. Front and back is expensive as **** if you'd like to buy them of the market. Aluminium rings around the gauge/cluster = 100 usd. Plates on the pedals = another 100 usd. Front lip = another 200 usd (?) Sideskirts = another 500-1000 usd (?)

^Sweet^ ! Good luck with 'er

Congrats!

Very nice! Love the new wheels!

Looks great, congrats!

Congrats from a fellow C4S owner ! Great color too . Glad you did the wheel swap as those 19's looked heavy , other than the tips looking a bit low to the arches ... great buy , especially with all the big $$ maintenance already done. Cheers ! Mike

^ time for some new motor mounts perhaps...^

Congratulations! It looks like you've got a nice car there!

Congrats! Enjoy the car. They're a lot of fun and such a great value.

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Thanks for the welcome! You might be surprised about the Champions. They are extremely light and come in the right offsets. I may even get these cleaned up and through track tires on them: Champion Motorsport RS97 Forged Aluminum Monolites Front: 19" x 9" ET53 20 lbs each Rear: 19" x 12" ET44 22 lbs each

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Ordered! Have ya'll seen the Function First deal??

I had to use Stuttcars.com to find the build codes for my car as the original markings were removed. Pretty informative for $20. 032 Touring suspension (higher suspension for USA) 058 Impact absorbers front and rear 130 Control and indications in English lettering 197 Stronger battery 218 Licence plate holder USA 219 Differential 242 nternal production code 270 Driver side mirror flat 273 Door mirrors electrically adjustable and heatable 274 Vanity mirror illuminated 288 Headlamp washer 335 Rear seat belts 339 All-wheel drive 415 18" 996 solid wheels (not hollow-spoke) 8+11" 424 CD compartment 425 Rear window wiper 434 Work instructions for cars for overseas 436 3-spoke steering wheel 437 8-way electrical seat, left 438 8-way electrical seat, right 441 Radio preparation 446 Concave wheel centers with full-colour Porsche Crest 454 Automatic speed control 465 Rear foglamp, left 476 PSM Porsche Stability Management 480 6-speed manual transmission 484 USA symbols and lettering for switches and instruments 535 Anti-theft lock 315 MHz 537 Seat memory, left 553 Version for USA, Canada 562 Front airbags 563 Side airbags 566 Front fog lights, white 567 Windscreen upper part darker coloured 571 Activated charcoal filter 573 Air conditioner 581 Front center console 601 Litronic xenon headlights 602 Raised stop lamp 620 Electronic accelerator 650 Sun-moon-roof 651 Electric window opener 657 Power assisted steering 659 On-board computer 660 OBD 2 On-Board Diagnostics 661 Stricter emission-control concept 664 ORVR Onboard Refueling Vapor Recovery 680 Sound system Bose analog 685 Rear seats 692 CD autochanger 697 CD-radio Becker Porsche CDR-23 912 Without European ID plate 939 Draped leather rear seats 981 Leather dashboard and door panels 982 Draped leather front seats 985 Internal production code

Beautiful car! Q: Is there a reason you chose a C4 rather than a C2 if you plan on doing track days?

I'm going to guess that he wants the AWD because he lives in Seattle.

Nice car. JSC Motorcars had this car for sale for a while. It looks clean in person and you got it for a good price.

looks nice. where did you order your suspension parts from. I need to do some on my 996 turbo.

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IT Buyer by trade, scanned the net for a few hours and ordered everything piece mail. Thankfully searching for C4S parts is much more limiting, only a handful of manufacturers/vendors/part numbers

how does it drive compared to the other cars you've had? I was specifically thinking about picking up an E46 m3 at one point.

My C4S will be picked up by the carrier and shipped either today or tomorrow morning. As a new owner I can hardly wait and I am happy to be a member of the 996 community too! Congrats! -DC Josh

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Yeah, I did some research on the VIN and came across the link . I know the guys that own the dealership that brought it from there to Seattle. Coming from various M3s and lastly my E60 M5, its completely different. I was originally in the hunt for another E46 M3 until I saw 996 prices. After looking at a few it quickly and almost permanently changed my mind away from a car and marque I've known well to a car I've admired from afar but never really considered. Couldn't believe it. I had to have one. Congrats! I was looking out of state and lucky/unlucky found one nearby. Would have loved to have one delivered/picked it up! Enjoy!

Parts are starting to arrive. So far: Engine: -Spark Plugs/Coils -Pulleys/Belts/Alternator/Water Pump -Headers/Sport Tips -AOS -Low Thermostat Brakes: -EBC Pads/Zim Rotors/SS Lines/Ti Plates/Motul6 Fluid Suspension -Bilstein M030 Turbo Struts & H&R Springs (ordered before coilovers. Going to try this setup first. It was dirt cheap comparatively.) Exterior: -New Lip (old was cracked) Interior: -Cabin Filter -Hexamats -Radio and AC Trim -V1 -Dension 500 -Bluetooth Adapter Work starts this weekend.

More updates coming soon as I've done a ton of work on the car.

Love the rims , keep the posts coming cant wait to hear about the mods, first porsche owner myself 996 C2 love it, not many about here in Ireland especially small town Ireland

Finished a lot of work over the past few weeks along with a 2000 mile trip from Seattle to San Francisco and my first track day in the 911. Work Completed: Tools -Atlas 7000 Scissor Lift installed. Perfect setup for 911s. Has paid for itself already in its first month. Brakes -EBC Pads Front Yellows/Rear Reds -Zimmerman Rotors F/R -SuperGold Fluid Suspension -ROW M030 Struts off Turbo -H&R Lowering Springs -Adjustable Toe Links -Adjustable Dogbones -New Tie Rods -Eibach Sway Bars F/R -Custom Sway Bar Endlinks -Alignment (-1 Camber Front/-2 Rear) Maintenance -LN Oil Filter Conversion -LN Deep Oil Pan, Baffle and Armor -New Spark Plugs and Coils -New MAF Sensor and K&N Filter _________________________________________________________ Getting Started: All of the new goodies. Everything Removed from Front Suspension. If you pop the thrust arms and control arms off and the axles out, the struts come out easily without having to use compressors. Old front stock suspension removed. Designing the new endlinks with the help of my local parts supplier. Also replacing a few bolts/nuts with Grade 8 hardware. ROW M030 struts and H&R springs going in. New Eibach Sway Bar Mounted. New Custom Front Endlinks installed. New Front Tie Rods. New Rear Adjustable Dogbones. New Rear Adjustable Toelinks. Rear Sway Bar and Endlinks. Old Stock Ride Height New Ride Height - <br/>Lowered 1" all around. New Zimmerman Rotors. New GT3 Brake Ducts Everything Back together with new Rotors/Pads. New Solid Motor Mounts New Solid Motor Mounts Sway Bar Pre-Loading and Suspension Check before alignment. Alignment <br/>Front -1 Camber<br/>Rear -2 Camber Seattle to San Francisco Roadtrip begins Quick shot from Mt. Shasta Light Maintenance at Burlingame Porsche. My check engine, PSM/ABS light came on. Suspected MAF sensor. Replaced Plugs, Coils and MAF. The shop foreman serviced the car and was incredibly nice and knowledgeable. Would highly recommend this shop to anyone in the Bay Area as they gave me our PCA discount and a lower shop rate while knocking my car out in record time as I had to head back north in only a few days with short notice. Crossing the Golden Gate heading back to Seattle Highway 101 Traffic. Highway 101 Sunset SF to Seattle done. Back on Friday night, PCA Track Day on Saturday on morning. Prep work begins:<br/>-Track Wheels - Hollow Turbos with Falkens<br/>-EBC Yellowstuff Front/Redstuff Rear<br/>-SuperGold Fluid Check<br/>-Suspension Check<br/>-Brakes Check<br/>-Coolant Check<br/>-Interior Emptied<br/>-Spare MAF/Brake Light Switch 900 miles of Highway 101 to get home in time for the First Track Day. Fell in love.

Nice looking Porsche. Was in Seattle last Sept. for a wedding, loved the area. Didn't take you long to perform numerous upgrades to your new Porsche.

long live THE STIG - Vandersmith - best update in some time keep them coming enjoying this thread man

Here's my two fastest laps, back to back from Saturday at the Ridge: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N_ZLaHyxDDs

This is a video of all three groups running the most technical part of the Ridge course in Shelton, WA. Pretty interesting to watch and see the lines drivers of different skill levels and cars take on the same steep S turn. This turn drops 80 feet from top to bottom. (Will reupload video soon)

Nice mods and updates. Is that a ramp by the entrance of your garage? It doesn't seem that steep. Is it for some other purpose?

Welcome and congratulations! If you ever need any DIY help you can check out our tech articles . If you ever have any questions about your 996 don't hesitate to ask us! -Luccia

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Its really not that steep but it does look a lot flatter due to the angle of the photo. Without the ramps over the drainage ditch in front of the garage the front lip would hit the driveway, bend and possibly rip off.

June Update - Lots of Preventative Maintenance: LN Dual Row IMS Upgrade LN X51 Oil Sump, Baffle and Pan LN Spin-On Filter Adapter RMS AOS Water Pump Low Temp Thermostat New Coils New Plugs New Tubes EBC Yellow Front Pads / Red Rear Pads Zimmerman Front and Rear Rotors Motul6 Super Gold Brake Fluid Bilstein M030 Turbo Struts & H&R Springs Eibach Sway Bars F/R with Custom Endlinks New Clutch and Pressure Plate Function First Motor Mounts Coming Soon: New Pulleys and Belt New Alternator New KW V3s New Tarret Monoball Camber Plates New 997 Shifter and Linkage New Control Arms with Powerflex Bushings All Around Front and Rear Upgraded Thrust Arms

Sh*#t just got real.

nice!!!

Very cool! Thanks for sharing. Love The Ridge - it's an awesome track My best lap there was 2 minutes flat..

Nice! Good job

What lift are you using in your garage and what feedback can you provide?

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Its an Atlas 7000lb Mid-Rise Scissor Lift Its phenomenal and has paid for itself 5 times over in just a few months. It works great for the Porsche, provides full access to the rear engine, I do suspension tweaks for track days in an hour instead of hours, oil changes are minutes, basically all of the work you've seen in this thread has been done on this lift. Would buy again 10/10. It also is cut out in the middle so I can drop a complete drivetrain for Porsches or BMWs (RWD). Retail Video

Great color! Congrats; enjoy it.

Congrats! 996 is a great car. You will have LOT 'O FUN!

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Sweet, I was also thinking of this. I like the fact that I can move this out into the driveway if I wanted to or keep it in the garage. I hope to dig a little pit and put it into the ground when the new garage is built so that it is out of the way when not in use. 2f502280.jpg

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That's exactly what I'll be doing with mine this winter time. Its getting a lot of use between a few too many projects right now. With the shop rates being $100-$165 per hour in Seattle - Its easily already paid for itself a few times over

not bad for $2300, i was expecting a deeper hold in the pocket.

Quick August Update: Installed: New Pulleys and Belt New Alternator KW V3s New Tarret Monoball Camber Plates New 997 Shifter and Linkage New Control Arms with Powerflex Bushings All Around Front and Rear Upgraded Thrust Arms Coming Soon: NT01s on Turbo Hollows IPD Plenum GT3 Throttle Body Recaro SPB XL Seats Recaro Side Mounts/Sliders Planted Seat Mounts GT3 Sub Harness Plates RaceQuip 6 Point Harnesses Tequipment Roll Cage Extended Throttle Pedal Momo Monte Carlo Steering Wheel - 350mm NRG Quick Release Hub Exhaust: Headers/X-Pipe/Mufflers

Damn, dude, you are throwing parts at that car like a fiend.

Great thread and great looking car. My first Porsche, a Boxster S was Lapis Blue, love that color. I may have met you over the last couple of years. I race with SOVREN and you guys put on a mean show at our July event. If I were younger, had more money, more ***** and no SO I'd buy a PRO3 car :-) I just picked up a 2004 C4S local to me and got back from a maiden Spokane to Seattle trip in two days. Amazing cars! I won't be doing this level of work to mine but will be doing some DE's and a few things to accommodate that. I'm instructing in two weeks and hoping to find some wheels/tires before that day. Thanks for the updates, it is really helpful to someone like me who's new to the 996 world. I got started with PCA doing DE's and hope to see you at a Seattle event at some point. Cheers, Jerry

Slow down yo, this isn't Gran Turismo. You're making us all feel inadequate.

OP, I love the stuff y ours doing to the car. Say, when you want to sell your car for market value of say $28K you can put my name on the waiting list. Thanks in advance!

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Hey Jerry! The Sovren guys are fantastic, I'm sure we've crossed paths a few times. Did I see you out at the recent PCANW HPDE at Pacific or the one at the Ridge? There's a few C4S lurking around here and there, love these cars. I recognize your car, every now and then I take a peek locally just to see what kind of deals are going around. You got a real gem!

I haven't done a PCANW event for a few years. I was going to them frequently until I bought my race car, then moved, etc. I'm hoping to get back into going to PCA DE's through our local club. We're a long ways away from the quality of the DE program in Seattle but working on it. I'm instructing in two weeks and will have this car on the track for the first time. In the future I'll make a few tweeks to make the car more track friendly but for the most part keep it stock. I raced at the Ridge in my Formula Vee in 2012. It's a great track. Good luck with the new car!

Here's the work done so far: Tools -Atlas 7000 Scissor Lift installed. Perfect setup for 911s. Brakes -EBC Pads Front Yellows/Rear Reds -Zimmerman Rotors F/R -SuperGold Fluid Engine: LN Dual Row IMS Upgrade FVD X51 Deep Oil Sump, Baffle and Pan LN Spin-On Oil Filter Adapter and Magnet Sleeve RMS AOS MAF Sensor and K&N Intake Water Pump Low Temp Thermostat Coils/Plugs/Tubes Function First Motor Mounts Drivetrain: New Clutch and Pressure Plate 997 Short Shifter Guibo Agency Power Shift Linkage Brakes EBC Yellow Front Pads EBC Red Rear Pads Zimmerman Front and Rear Rotors Motul6 Super Gold Brake Fluid SS Brake Lines Suspension KW V3 Coilovers Eibach Sway Bars F/R with Custom Endlinks Tarret Monoball Camber Plates GT3 Front Control Arms OEM Tie Rods Adjustable Rear Dogbones and Toe Links Powerflex Bushings Front Upgraded Front Thrust Arms Interior Valentine One Dension Gateway Cabin Filter Hexamats Radio and AC Trim Bluetooth Adapter Exterior New Front Bumper and Lip Rolled Rear Fenders

During the offseason I thought I'd first finish some of the safety equipment before rolling her into the garage for the winter. Agency Power Roll Cage - 30 lbs total. Recaro Profi SPG XL Seats - 19 lbs per seat. Recaro Sliders - 2 lbs per seat. Recaro Side Mounts - 10 lbs per seat. Planted Seat Mounts - 6 lbs per seat. RaceQuip 6 Pt. Harnesses - 2 lbs per seat. Stock 996 Seat: 60 lbs. New Per Seat: 39 lbs. (54lbs with rollcage.) Total weight savings: 12 lbs. Here's some photos of the install with a few before and afters. Removal of the rear seat belts and seats: Rear seat ready for cage. With the Agency Power cage you can do this by yourself without fear of fitment. It went right in over about 10 minutes of Jenga. RaceQuip 6 PT Camlock Harnesses. These are a bargain. Spend however much you need to feel safe but I know a lot of guys running these with their Hans systems in their dedicated track/race cars. Recaro's Mounted and ready to bolt in. Sub Belts Installed. Before: After: Before: After: Before: After: Completed Seats, Harness and Cage: Almost ready for next season! Couple of Notes: Time: Removing the front seats: 30 minutes Removing the rear seat belts: 60 minutes Setting the Roll Cage in place: 10 minutes Bolting in the Roll Cage/Harnesses: 3 hours Installing Seats/Harnesses: 1 hour Total Time: 5-6 hours About the Agency Power cage: I choose the Agency Power roll cage based on ease of install. If you've done your research and seen the video of someone installing a Tequipment cage in their GT3, you know its a pain to get in due to the secondary bars. The Agency Power's are removable making the install a lot easier without sacrificing strength. All of the hardware is also grade 8. The Cage Install Bolting in the cage without cross-threading the 3-4" bolts into the old seat belt holes is incredibly difficult without another person. I probably could have saved an hour or two having a friend weigh down one or two sides to get the cage in the right place. Was pretty tough. Take your time and don't cross-thread em. Finesse. The Seat Install I went with the Planted bottom seat mounts as they bolt directly into the stock chassis holes. The sliders work however I ended up ditching them as the Profi XL's are 1.5" taller than the standard Profis. The sliders put them too close to the ceiling for comfort. Since they seats don't slide, I had to redrill the Planted mounts to get both seats in the right position. If you don't go with the Planted mounts and instead use the recaro sliders, you'll need to come up with a harness mount which may involve drilling into the transmission tunnel. I didn't really see a need for this and having a 4S makes that a much more involved process.

Coming up next: Suspension: Rear Control Arms Rear Thrust Arms PowerFlex Bushings Tarret Endlinks F/R Exhaust: Headers ARP Head Studs High Flow Cats and X-Pipes Mufflers Intake: IPD Plenum GT3 Throttle Body EVOMS Intake Engine: Alternator Pulleys Underdrive Pulley & Belt EVOMS Tune Interior: Momo Steering Wheel on Rennline Quick Release GT3 Console Delete 997 Shifter Bushings H3R Extinguisher/Mount

Started on the bigger part of the next few projects first, partially because one of my cats innards are rattling and I really expected the head bolts to be frozen and break. Step 1: Drive the crap out of the car. I went for a long highway drive to get the exhaust up to temp. 30 minutes. Step 2: Lift the car. Step 3: Spray every single bolt with PB Blaster. On each side there are: 3x Header Bolts. 3x X-Pipe Connecter bolts. 2x on the Mufflers. 2 on the Sleeves. 1x on the Mount Clamp. Spray them all. Step 4: Go to work. Watch out for hot dripping PB Blaster.Start with the head. Using a 1/2" Wrench, 6" Extension and 13mm Socket. Lightly apply pressure. Step 5: Slap yourself for getting so lucky you didn't break a single head bolt. Step 6: Take a selfie because you still can't believe you didn't break one. Step 7: Remove the 2x 13" bolts on the mufflers. The two 13mm bolts on each sleeve and the final 13mm bolt on the x-pipe mounting clamp. Step 8: Label one of the O2 sensors to remind you where they re-attach. Step 9: Crack a beer. Step 10: Crack another beer. Call it a day.

just a tad bit jealous! very cool list of mods.

Warming up the motor prior to header bolt removal is the key. IIRC, this what Jake always does and he says he hasn't broke one yet and we know how many motors he's touched.

Made some progress but ran into a few issues. Two of the O2 Sensors we're corroded into the old mid pipes. Ordered new ones, should have done that from the start anyway. Here's a few comparison shots of the new system and the stock. The setup is from TopGear Tuning UK and was a pretty decent deal. The build quality is pretty high and the welds look great. The X-Pipes have 200 cell cats. The overall system drops 10 lbs off the rear compared to stock. Replacing the alternator: RSS Underdrive Pulley: Grinding the boss down for the new pulley: Pulley installed:

Sorry for the delay on posting pics, videos of the finished exhaust. I've been waiting on some new hangers/sleeves from Pelican to arrive as mine were pretty corroded and didn't seem ideal for the shiny new goodies. I'll have pics and video up over the next few days. Also - we're pulling out all the stops, literally. Found a complete set of GT3 Calipers and Rotors on eBay. After talking at length with Kevin at UMW - THANKS KEVIN!!! this sounded like the best plan out there, even over any of the BBKs available. I pulled the trigger and they should arrive next week. To match the larger 6 pot/4 pot calipers, I've sent a set of 997TT rotors to Coleman racing to build some custom two-pieces for the front and rear. I'll have more on that once I know more. You might have seen this set of GT3 brakes on ebay recently. They're heading to Seattle:

Brilliant build! Looks like you've done almost every conceivable mod! Interestingly no LWFW? Keep up the awesome work!

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Thanks! Its coming together little by little! I've put a LWFW in some of my past cars with mixed results, the acceleration improvements are fantastic however some were not as stable/predictable at idle than others. Its definitely on the list but not 100% sure yet, need to do more research on how the 3.6 has responded in other DD/Track cars.

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Ahh right, I have one on my 3.6 C2 personally think it's a great mod. No problem with the idle. Do need a sprung clutch disc. I have a cargraphic lwfw and the underdrive pulley. I have read mixed reviews and a lot of concern around imbalanced flywheels and harmonic balancing though. For me it makes driving more fun but also more difficult to take off! I Don't want to derail the thread with flywheel talk others might disagree with this mod.

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No worries, thanks for bringing it up. I'll definitely look into the LWFW a little more now. Appreciate the feedback. Most interested in seeing what the final weight and dyno numbers are after all this. Should be pretty interesting. Soon!

Very cool project!I also wanted to put a bespoke street/track 911 together,and thought i would share it,it was a slippery slope,but in the end no regrets,it is a little more track then street as i do 5 to 6 DE events each year.alot of money spent i know,but done over time it hurts a little less.I realize for the money i spent i could have bought a gt3,however it was fun building i guess sort of my own version. 2003 CARERRA C2 MIDNIGHT BLUE,40TH ANNIVERSARY WHEELS(TRACK)TURBO TWIST (STREET).BILSTEIN PSS10s AND TARRET CAMBER PLATES,DROP LINKS FRONT AND REAR,AND REAR TOE LINKS WITH BUMP STEER,ALONG WITH REAR UPPER CONTROL ARM LINKS. RSS MOTOR MOUNTS AND TARMAC SERIES LOWER CONTROL ARMS FRONT AND REAR,, AND FUNCTION FIRST TRANSMISSION MOUNT INSERT, WITH H+R SWAY BARS AND WHEEL SPACERS,GIRO DISC TWO PIECE ROTORS FRONT AND REAR,STOP TECH PADS(STREET) PAGID RS29 YELLOW (TRACK) STAINLESS STEEL BRAKE LINES,APEX COMPETITION TRACK STUDS, GT3 BRAKE DUCTS ,EURO SPEC GT3 ALIGNMENT. IPD PLENUM,RSS UNDERDRIVE PULLEY,FVD BROMBACHER MOTORSPORT OIL PAN,PORSCHE OEM SKID PLATE,CANTON/ACCUSUMP OIL SYSTEM,GT3 THIRD RADIATOR KIT, EVOLUTION MOTORSPORT COLD AIR INTAKE AND EVOMSit ECU FLASH, FVD 200 CELL SPORT CATS AND FVD STAINLESS HEADERS WITH TUBI MUFFLERS AND 40TH ANNIVERSARY TIPS,FACTORY AERO KIT 2,WITH MOTORSPORTS CUP SPLITTER,RENNLINE RADIATOR PROTECTION GRILLS. ,3M CLEAR BRA AND 3M CRYSTALINE WINDOW TINT, B +M SHORT SHIFT KIT, RENNLINE TRACK MATS, EXTINGUISHER MOUNT AND ADJUSTABLE THROTTLE PEDAL,\MICHELIN PS2(STREET) AND MICHELIN CUP (TRACK) RUBBER,SOLARIS BULBS FOR RUNNING LIGHTS AND TURN SIGNALS,GT3 EURO/RECARO SEATS,TEQUIPMENT ROLL BAR W/ SCHROTE GT3 6 POINT HARNESSES,OEM ALUMALOOK INTERIOR ACCENTS, ALCANTARA TRIM WITH CONTRASTING STITCHING (STEERING WHEEEL,GEAR SHIFT.E-BRAKE DOOR PULLS AND STORAGE LIDS,STAINLESS DOOR ENTRY GUARDS, KENWOOD/EXCELON DNX6990/ALPINE AUDIO VIDEO SYSTEM WITH BACK UP CAMERA. BEL-TRONICS RADAR SYSTEM/WITH LASER INTERCEPTOR LASER JAMMERS. AIM DATA LOGGER AND HD CAMERA.

When you feel like selling, let me know.

I just went through the whole thread, I envy your lift, looks simple and practical, everything has been redone with upgrades, great to have a wife and kids so supportive with the time and mods!!! Sent from my iPhone using Rennlist

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The lift has paid for itself 10 fold. Here's where I got it. I think a lot of people assume these are too expensive, won't use it enough or that they won't have enough space. I use it every week to tinker with something. Here in Seattle its hard enough to even find a house with a garage, got lucky that mine came with a great wife.

Been doing a little overtime in the garage this week. Completed: -Exhaust Installed - Headers/X-Pipe/Mufflers (Sounds Amazing) -IPD Plenum/GT3 Throttle Body -RSS Underdrive Pulley -Lighter 997 Idler Pulleys -Momo Steering Wheel with Rennline QD -GT3 Console Delete -Tarrett Endlinks Front and Rear Installed - I'm not sure how but one of my Custom Grade 8 Endlinks I made snapped at the ball joint. Must have hit a large pothole or something. -Reset front and rear ride heights -Reset sway bars -Adjusted rebound/compression settings -New wipers, duh its winter Notes after a long drive last night: -Its a totally different car. Much much quicker. -No loss of low end. Butt dyno says gains from 3k-6k. Both might be attributed more to the plenum/TB than the exhaust. -Sounds insanely better. I liked it already with the FisterD but its really opened up now. Growls. Coming Next: -Custom Tune at UMW -GT3 Calipers with Coleman Rotors. I sent a set of front and rear 997TT rotors from Pelican to Coleman for measurements. The final rotors will be Two-Piece front and rear, both fixed. Troy at Coleman just sent me the plans should anyone else want to do this in the future. The guys at Coleman have really been fantastic to work with. Link to Blueprints -Upgraded Rear Thrust Arms and Control Arms -Rear GT2 Brake Ducts -EVOMS Intake - Big shout out to the EVO team. I've had my intake for a few weeks unfortunately without realizing it was missing the venturi coupler to attach the filter. They sent one out no questions asked with overnight shipping. Huge thanks! Photos and Video coming soon.

Engine Bay Before: Engine Bay After: Exhaust Comparison: Headers and X-Pipes Installed. I had to reinstall the modified FisterD mufflers as the new ones I picked up would not line up properly and need to the outlets expanded to fit the stock exhaust tip piping. Soon enough. Throttle Body Comparison Stock Throttle Body GT3 Throttle Body Plenum Comparison Stock Plenum:<br/>77mm Inlet<br/>88mm Side Outlets IPD Plenum:<br/>83mm Inlet<br/>88mm Side Outlets Pulley Comparison RSS Underdrive Pulley Installed

Interior Before Interior After Momo Monte Carlo 350mm Steering Wheel - My absolute favorite wheel. Not too light, not too thick, just right. Ecliptech Shift Light" Although you can see the tach here, from my seating position I can't see anything above 4k due to the steering wheel making this a little more of a must have. I have it set to light up from 3500-6500 then flash. Seems to work great so far for daily driving as only 1-3 lights come up on my commutes. GT3 Console Delete - Its not the biggest reduction but its surprising how different the interior feels now. Haven't noticed any help in leg room other than just my spacial perception. New LCD for Climate Control - eBay kit. Eh, it works now. Rennline Quick Disconnect. A little spendy but man is it pretty and light. Total jewel piece. Big fan of great design and this doesn't disappoint. Early Christmas Present. I may or may not be wearing this on conference calls in my home office.

Engine GT3 Throttle Body IPD 82mm Plenum EVOMS Intake and new MAF Sensor Exhaust: Headers, X-Pipe, Hi-Flow Cats and FisterD Mufflers LN Dual Row IMS Upgrade FVD X51 Deep Oil Sump, Baffle and Pan LN Spin-On Oil Filter Adapter and Magnet Sleeve RMS AOS Coils/Plugs/Tubes Water Pump and Low Temp Thermostat Function First Motor Mounts Drivetrain New Sachs Clutch and Pressure Plate 997 Short Shifter Agency Power Shift Linkage Brakes EBC Yellow Front Pads/Red Rear Pads Zimmerman Front and Rear Rotors Motul6 Super Gold Brake Fluid SS Brake Lines GT3 Front Brake Ducts Suspension KW V3 Coilovers Eibach F/R Sway Bars Tarett F/R Endlinks Tarett Monoball Camber Plates GT3 F/R Control Arms Adjustable Rear Dogbones and Toe Links Powerflex Bushings Upgraded Thrust Arms Wheels HRE 540 19x9/19x12 with MSS Turbo Hollow Twists with NT01 Apex Wheel Studs Interior Half Cage Recaro Profi SPG XL Seats RaceQuip 6pt Harnesses GT3 Console Delete Ecliptech Shift Light Rennline Short Hub and Quick Release Momo Monte Carlo 350mm Steering Wheel Valentine One Dension Gateway Exterior New Front Bumper and Lip Paint Correction Rolled Rear Fenders Coming Soon -GT3 Calipers with Coleman Two-Piece Rotors F/R -Custom Tune at UMW -Upgraded Rear Thrust Arms and Control Arms -Rear GT2 Brake Ducts I'll have videos up soon of the work especially the exhaust tone. The weather in Seattle hasn't been cooperating lately.

Congrats and welcome to the Porsche family.

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I found the MAF readings didn't register any improvements with the GT3 sized TB but at the same time, it shouldn't hurt either as you'll still have improved throttle response. You probably won't with those seats as they tend to limit your man spreading where as comfort seats allow more. I once drove over an hour without the side pads of the center console and that was no fun. Had a couple scrapes and cuts from the bare plastic. Looks like you'll be able to drive her soon.

Weather is good today! Should have a few videos up this afternoon

January Update: Worked with the guys at Coleman Racing to build custom two-piece, vented, slotted rotors. The new braking system will have the larger GT3 6pot/4pot Calipers and 355mm rotors all around. The new rotors are based on the 997T measurements and should have the corrected neutral bias. SS lines and the larger 997GT3 27mm Master Cylinder will push more fluid and firm up the pedal a bit. Hawk pads for the street, RS29s for the track. The rebuild kits from Racing Brake are going to be a big help with the GT3 calipers as some are missing the ceramic inserts and I wouldn't want to inherit any future issues they might have. New track wheels and rubber are on the way. I went with 18x8.5/18x12 OZ Allegheritas in Gold and NT01s (235/40 - 315/30) after talking with many of my local track buddies. Tire Rack is on backorder for many of the lighter OZs but they should be here in the next few weeks. Lots more to do!

Very impressive build.... If I can even do half the mods you have done, I will be a happy camper

Coleman Racing delivered! The Goods OEM 997T Front Rotor Weight Coleman Racing Front Rotor - 6 lbs less! OEM 997T Rear Rotor Weight Coleman Racing Rear Rotor - 4 lbs less! Artsy Fartsy

Dropped the GT3 calipers with John at Goldline Brakes for their overhaul. Racing Brake's upgraded stainless pistons and high temp seals are getting installed. Rotors are put together now and ready to go. Should be on the car within a week!

Colin, I can't wait to see your car at a local event. Well done.

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Are you heading out to the PCANW car clinic in Bremerton on Sat? I'll be there!

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I won't be there this Saturday unfortunately. My plan is to attend the 3/12 clinic then maybe the April DE event.

Got the call from John at Goldline that the Calipers were ready. Couldn't believe how they turned out. The new seals and pistons from RacingBrake looked great by themselves, it wasn't until they got into John's hands that they really began to look incredible. I elected not to have them repainted based on how good they look now and the turnaround time/cost to get them to perfect. This car is about go so I don't mind a few chips here and there. Every consumable on this car is going to see a lot of use, no sense in paying a lot more for aesthetics when the performance remains the same. New Front High-Temp Seals and SS Pistons from Racing Brake New Rear High-Temp Seals and SS Pistons from Racing Brake Hawk Pads for the Street Pagid RS29 Front and Rear for the Track Assembly Begins! More to come later this week!

Quick shot of my dog to hold everyone over until the next big update:

1st Year of Ownership Complete! Quick teaser shot:

Hi all, I'm new to 996 community previously owned a 944 T. Last week after couple of months of search I got a seemingly clean 996 40th AE. Pre purchase inspection didn't reveal much, except leaking valve cover gasket, rear wiper didn't work and clutch seemed on its way out. With that in mind I made an offer and a bought that car. The seller had the gasket replaced prior to me picking up the car. The next day I took the car to my freinds porsche shop for IMS/clutch job. And that's when I got some distubbing news, when he removed the undercarriage panels he found alot of corrosion on suspension components . He suspects water damage. Checked inside the vehicle seems okay under carpets but seat rails appear painted. In addition the rear wiper motor is completely corroded. Now I have a dilemma keep the car fix it and drive it or confront the seller and get my money back. The title was clean as the car fax also. Any thoughts or advice? Thanks

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Start a new thread, but your stuck with the car. Previous owner will most likely deny knowledge of any issues. And unless stated on the bill of sale an "as is sale"

[QUOTE=TAXFREE;13049802]Start a new thread, but your stuck with the car. Previous owner will most likely deny knowledge of any issues. And unless stated on the bill of sale an "as is sale"[/QUOTE Thanks for a reply . I really like the car and probably just keep it. I called the seller and he asked for a written report from the mechanic. My concern is how problematic in future the corrosion might be. How do i start a new thread?

This build over the last year has been a great thread to follow. I bow down before you. I feel like such a mope as I have picked up a few parts but wussed out installing because it's winter and I have an unheated garage.

Looks great. I'll look forward to seeing it at some point. John has done the calipers on a few of my cars including my street 914 last year. I'm hoping to go through the PCA instructors process at some point and would love to get over there for an event.

Nice upgrade. I almost went the ss piston/high temp seal route too but just ended up keeping my ceramic pucks in place on my PCCB gt3 calipers. Im gonna have to monitor this and see how you like the Coleman rotors long term. I've never considered those before but might now. Good thing for 997tt availability when it comes to consumables. Also 380's seem tempting but probably overkill with the amount of power our cars have not to mention 19's.

I am stunned by the reduction in weight depending on rotor manufacturer. If you don't mind me asking, what is the price penalty? What an interesting build you have going on.

The brakes are installed! Parts Breakdown: GT3 Front and Rear Calipers High Temp Pistons and Seals by RacingBrake Coleman Two Piece - 350mm Fixed Rotors with Aluminum Hats Hawk HPS Pads SS Lines by DNA Motul RBF 600 Fluid Work Underway Chris's German Auto - Redmond, WA Front Left Front Right Front Right - Angle Rear Left Rear Left - Angle Rear Right Rear Right - Angle

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Don't mind at all. We have a few options when it comes to rotors. Fixed/Floating: Coleman Racing - $900 per pair Girodisc - $1200 per pair Brembo - $1800 per pair Stock Iron: Zimmerman - $260 per pair Sebro - $280 per pair OEM - $500 per pair There isn't much in cost savings however the replacement costs on the fixed/floating options are close to stock. The real investment is the aluminum hats. Once I wear out the rotors, new ones will only be about $100-$150 each. This comes with a few caveats. I had to ship a set of stock 997 Turbo rotors from Pelican to Coleman so they could measure them and provide blueprints. It would have been much easier to buy the Girodisc or Brembo options however the cost savings appear to be worth the extra effort.

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You shouldn't be, it's not based on manufacturer but rotor "type". Aluminum hat rotors always lighter than full steel ones.

All done! 1st Impressions: The car stops. Smooth and noticeably more balanced deceleration. At speed the feeling of the rear trying to overtake the front is almost completely gone. The new pedal feel is really different. The brake pedal goes in about 1.5" before you feel it working due to the larger calipers needing more fluid to move. The stock master cylinder is 24mm, I have the larger 27mm GT3 Master Cylinder but want to give this a run for a little while. It may actually be better for heel toeing at the track as that little bit of play makes it easier to blip the throttle without severe braking. The Hawk pads seem fine for the street but definitely are too soft for anything more serious. Also - buy H&R. My Eibach 24mm rear sway bar was toast! Was wondering where all that new understeer was coming from.

Looking good. And I spy Roosevelt High school

congrats enjoy !

More coming soon...

Added another to the stable, electric gerbil edition:

AASCO! Shifter, Cup Cables, and LWFW going on this week. The addiction is real my friends. Save yourselves.

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Yes, you're coming over to the LWFW dark side... Goood goooood

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Can't wait! I'll spin up a much better video than those that are around once its installed. One for Milltek vs Fister Exhaust too!

Got a brief moment this afternoon to knock out the shifter. Here's a few shots: Stock Shift ****<br/>997 Shifter Mount<br/>B&M Short Shift Kit Starting off: B&M Short Shift Kit 997 Shifter Mount Top Down Comparison Cable Mount Comparison. The stock unit has the cables drop in where they are then adjusted. The Numerics piece can be extended towards or away from the front of the car depending on the cable. This allows you take all of the slack out of the line along with a much more stable connection. This makes the cables do what they were designed to do. Move. Securely. Any bikers on here will know what I'm talking about. 997 Shifter Mount - Drivers Side View Numerics - Drivers Side View 997 Shifter Mount - Front View Numerics - Front View 997 Shifter Mount - Passenger Side View Numerics - Passenger Side View Carpet Removal - Needed for the shortest setting on the Numerics. Simple box cutter works. Test Fitting Installed! Setting the Desired Shift Point. There are 3 mounting points.<br/><br/>From Highest to Lowest.<br/>3. Really, Really Short Shifts. Too Short IMO.<br/>2. Short Shifts - Compares to B&M<br/>1. Stock Length Shifts All Done! Found a good deal on a CF radio shroud to match. Initial Impressions: I wish I had done this sooner. The shifts are so much smoother. I am in shock. If you're in the keep it stock camp, this has to be on your list. It really is a must have. The in gear play is gone. 2nd 3rd, 4th 5th is especially improved. It feels like I'm shifting with cheat codes on.

Looks so good! I was excited about installing my stock 997 shifter, now not so much haha What was track 99??

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Don't think twice at all. Honestly for the money the 997 shifter is one of the best mods out there. It is totally worth it. The only reason I even thought about going this route was due to the worn out bushings in my current shifter (lots of play, sloppy yet sometimes soft, sometimes firm feel) and upgrading to cup cables for the track season. I wouldn't take a serious look at this shifter (because of the price) unless you're in one of two camps: 1. Your keeping your car stock. Treat yourself to a great, great shifter. 2. You've done everything else and are also going to do cables. If you're anywhere between, there are better places to spend $649. The 997 shifter is a great setup and if there is money burning a hole in your pocket you can add the Function First Shift Right solution if you really feel like it. The radio doesn't make the car going any faster so I've stuck with the stock unit paired to a Dension Gateway and a Bluetooth adapter. It works pretty well but needs to be on CD Changer/Track 99 to work. Took it out for a test drive tonight with the Black Angels blaring

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Excellent hopefully I'll get a chance to put it in this weekend! Thanks

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Here's the instructions on Pelican. Tools: Torx T20 Torx T30 10mm Socket Ratchet + Extension Good luck!

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Perfect! Cheers

Hey vandersmith, Did you use white lithium grease to lubricate?

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But we hardly know each other Dan I used this stuff. You can find it just about anywhere. Most greases will serve the purpose, just not too much or too little.

Sway Bars: Installed a new 25mm H&R Front Sway bar to match the rear. The Eibach warranty claim will be sent in this week for the rear one that broke. Still confused how that happened as when we reset my suspension and loading everything ended being almost exactly the same. Lightweight Flywheel: No. There are some insanely smart mechanics I trust at Chris's German Auto and after a brief discussion on performance vs. reliability we all came to the conclusion that the lightened, single mass is a bad idea. Please don't start a debate here as there is a wealth of information and multiple threads available trading each side. All I needed was this link from Jake Raby at Flat6 to say no. So I've got a flywheel to sell/return. New Seats?? Upon further inspection and consulting the experts at 425 Motorsports, the Recaro SPG's I found on ebay are in fact replicas. That's not to say they're bad, they're comfortable and everything is where it should be. The mold, fabric and reinforcements all look acceptable but when you put them side by side to the real thing you start to notice where corners were cut. Thinking about taking turn 1 at Pacific at 145+ mph in replica seats physically makes me quiver. Almost sick having spun off, hit walls, you name it in the past. I can't believe I let myself buy and install these. Idiotic. Anyway, problem solved:

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Haha! Did all those shops advise against a LWFW even with a underdrive pulley and sprung clutch disk?

Not sure if you have adjustable end links(can't keep track of all your mods ) but I can see stock end links or improperly adjusted aftermarket end links placing preload on the bars. However they should still be strong enough and not break off like that. Did you get one of the first batches of the gen2 Eibach bars by chance? They may have had some teething issues with the newer episodes versions due to material selection/suppliers/tooling/QC. Also, is it possible you may have hit or ran something over without noticing it?

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Yes. The risk vs reward factor didn't add up. Not sure, I really can't recall ever hitting anything but I must have to snap the end of it. I measured the Eibach bar at 24mm so I believe it is one of the later versions. What surprises me is that the Tarrett end links didn't bend or break when it occurred. I would have thought those would have gone before the bar.

Track Wheels: Back in January I put an order for a set of OZ wheels for the track. I wanted something lightweight but strong in the right offsets and these seemed to fit the bill. The problem is that OZ appears to be behind with their manufacturing and won't be able to deliver until some time in April/May. Ordering a set of wheels in January and not getting them for almost 3 months in the middle track season is a real buzzkill. No fault of Tire Rack's, just poor planning on my part. I'd also read on the Turbo/GT2 forum that there has also been reports of the OZ wheels bending during track use making forged options sound a whole lot better. Really not wanting to wait that long and run street tires at the first few track sessions, there's been a set of CCW C10s on eBay for a few weeks that I've been researching and just pulled the trigger. They come in the largest sizes I'd be willing to run, weigh about the same as the hollow Turbo Twists and are FORGED. The offsets are what really get me. Because they are setup for 996TT/GT2 these won't need spacers. Stoked! Thanks Andrew! 18x9 +53 - 21 lbs 18x12 +41 - 24 lbs

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Hurmm, curious to know what they specifically said (not starting a debate, promise!). I'm guessing potential crankshaft damage and no harmonic balancing?

Man am I glad this is over. Mounting seats is seriously one of the most numbing exercises out there. It really shouldn't be this hard. After a lot of swearing, adjustment, more swearing, some drilling, swearing - they're finally done. The guys at 425 Motorsports in Bellevue, WA are owed a few beers for their help. Definitely saved me even more grief by recommending the components. Here's what I ended up using: Planted Driver and Passenger Mounts Recaro Side Mounts Grade 8 Bolts/Nuts/Washers Schroth B23A Snap On Kit Sparco Evo 2 Seats Sparco 6 Point Hans Harnesses Things I have but didn't use: -Recaro Sliders - I'm the only driver. Don't need access to the back seat. -Planted Side Mounts - Although they weigh less than the Recaro's, their pre-drilled holes didn't line up with the mounts and the offset of the mounting holes were not as extreme as the Recaro's. This made getting the seat far enough forward or back impossible without drilling more into the seat mount. -Brey Krause R-9044 Mounts with Sub Bar - This stuff was well made but missing a ton of the needed hardware. Was really disappointed in it. It is specifically made only for the entire BK setup. The Sub Bar didn't have the mounting bolts which turned out to be SAE when everything else is Metric. Useless. Here's the process and setup. After all of the work, I'm really happy with how things turned out. The seats are a big improvement especially since I don't have to question how they were made or installed. Quick shot of the Planted Seat Mounts The Recaro Side Mounts lined up much better than any of the others I tried. I had to use a Cobalt drill bit to make this small hole for the mounts. A few minutes of work made this much easier. All mounted with new Grade 8 hardware. You can also see the submarine harness connection. To mount the lap belts, Schroth makes these awesome kits. Its a high quality figure 8 that you connect to one of the mounting bolts then bend into place. Passenger Seat - Door Side with Lap Belt installed. Passenger Seat - Driver's Side with Lap Belt and Schroth Kit. New Sparco 6 Point - Hans/FIA Harness Installed!

Ruh Roh!

Mufflers arrived this afternoon and look fantastic! Having spent hours on this already, my eyes tell me these are going to line up and that the exhaust outlet problem with the TopSpeed (ebay) mufflers won't be an issue. See for yourself: Milltek vs TopSpeed TopSpeed - Notice the hangers and smaller outlet connection for the exhaust tips TopSpeed Close Up TopSpeed Exhaust Outlet Connection to Exhaust Tips - 2.25" Milltek Exhaust from ECS Notice the reinforced hangers and the quality exhaust outlet connection? The Proper 2.75" for the Exhaust Tips Installation tomorrow!

Love the CCW10 wheels as it's always been on my favs list. At least you know your mounting points won't break off with the FIA Sparco's. Please update us with a sound clip of the Milteks once you get them installed and broken in.

Big thanks to the team at ECS Tuning and Milltek Sport Exhaust systems! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vrpfMP9wSBY

Thanks for the sound clip. Sounds pretty good. What do you think in person over your fister style cans?

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I've been driving around with the Fister setup for a while and think it really is the best option if you're going to keep the stock headers and Y pipes. It makes a great sound and just works. Once I added the headers and x-pipe however, the sound changed quite a bit and I think exposed the limitations of the Fister modification. On accel it sounded wonderful but on decel it sounded and felt like the mufflers couldn't keep up with the rest of the system. Now is a different story. The car sounds the way it was intended, the decel gargle/down shift blips sound amazing, and it also feels like I got some low end back under 2,500 rpms. Another trade off is that the mufflers dropped 12 lbs off the rear end. Not bad!

New Track Wheels! Hollow Turbo Twist - Front weight - 45.8 lbs<br/>Falken Azeri CCw C10 - Front weight - 40.4 lbs<br/>Michelin PS2 Hollow Turbo Twist - Front weight - 54.8 lbs<br/>Falken Azeri CCw C10 - Front weight - 51.4 lbs<br/>Michelin PS2

The guys are EVO MS really are incredible. Hooked up my SP3 and recorded the codes this morning. Got a fresh tune by 3pm. Heading to Pacific Raceways tomorrow for my first track day this year!

1st Track Day of the year! Headed down to Pacific Raceways with ProFormance Racing School for a lapping day. After all of the work put into the car this year it was awesome to finally be able to put it through its paces and shake it down. Had a blast! Upgraded Brakes: They didn't fade at all. The RS29s have some serious bite. I'm still not confident enough to brake as late as they will actually allow but will work on it. Nitto NT01s: Handled amazingly. Was able to really get the pressures dialed in throughout the day but couldn't get them up to temp on the cold spring day. Temps show I need to actually drop camber front and rear. These are better than me. Seats/Harnesses: Perfect. Exhaust: Perfect. Seats/Harnesses: Perfect. Shifter: Perfect. A friend showed me some awesome 360� videos and thought it'd be pretty cool to capture what it's like in the driver's seat. Here's my first attempt! For 360� Effect - watch in YouTube App on iOS or Android, or Chrome on a computer. Move your phone or click into the video to move the viewpoint! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7n2kxak9EiI Here's how the exhaust sounds at full throttle. Really, really happy with it! https://youtu.be/GyObnDajanU https://youtu.be/WTy8fNZgd14

Prepping for paint!

First time moving big luggage:

More to come!

Two days, two tracks! 300 miles down to start the season at Pacific and the Ridge. Video and photos come, 1st PCA event is this weekend!

Holy crap - You don't mess around. What shop are you using for paint?? Be safe on the track!

Tell me more about that battery

Couple of shots from this weekend!

Awesome Thread. Must Subscribe. I'm in north seattle, would love to get our C4S 2003 twins together. Your's has been on quite the journey! Just had mine over Stevens Pass to Leavenworth.

I see you got the gold foil but where's your clear bra or painter's tape?

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why don't the 3 of us hook up for a beer sometime soon when the weather agrees - i'm on capitol hill and vandersmith in north seattle i think - rusty are u in south everett if i recall?? group photo in order for our blue/silver/seal grey C4S's

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The foil is at least functional. I get it when guys bring out brand new cars and tape them down. The car is 13 years old. I'm signed up for 16+ track days this year. Paint quality is about the last thing I should be worried about. PCA Track Opener is this Sunday at The Ridge. Ya'll going?

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Glad to see you're actually treating it like a car, unlike some peeps(cough cough KK)...

The stock airbox is thick plastic and doesn't conduct nearly as much heat as the others. I really think any metal intake in our cars should come with about 5' of gold high temp foil. My last track day without it the tube measured above 200� right after lapping. With the foil its down to below 145� i.e. you can actually touch it as soon as I pull in.

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i'll be busy this weekend but during the week or whenever it works is fine with me - maybe meet out in snoqualmie or similar

just got PM from dave (rusty heap) who owns my old seal grey C4S - he's up in monroe area - i'll PM you

Had some fun last night. Needed to stiffen up the rear and these hats have been sitting in the garage far too long. New thrust and control arms to boot.

The work last night wasn't actually voluntary, had a hot date with TruLine in Seattle today for a corner balance and alignment. Talked to the guys there midway through and found out what I had been suspecting, the car was a hot mess. The ride heights across the front and rear were even however under load were way off. Although it looked alright the stiffness of the chassis hid a lot of the suspension setup faults. In short, if you've gone this far pay for a proper corner balance. Will post the embarrassing numbers when I pick the car up tomorrow.

The guys as TruLine are great to deal with. I couldn't believe the difference in handling when I had my old 911SC track car properly done. We have a couple of Spokane DE's on the calendar for August and September, you should make a trip out of it!

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Would love to, are they posted on motorsportreg?

trueline is a great place - had all my porsches balanced there including 1953 356 - they always did great work, very professional and you pay for it

Here's the dirt. Man what a difference!

Is cost still about $280-$325??

Our little club isn't using motorsportreg. There is a web entry form at http://form.jotformpro.com/form/50914295323959 Info on the DE's at http://inwr.pca.org/ Parade is coming to Spokane in 2017 and the club officers are working pretty hard to improve the professionalism of our DE program.

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Little bit more. As an example, a standard alignment from your basic tech at Firestone is around $200. These guys are quite a bit more experienced, familiar with the cars and hourly labor prices are high. Corner balancing takes a lot more work. They spent 6 hours on the car to give you an idea. I'll have to try and add this to my schedule. Sounds like a lot of fun!

Just finished a full day at The Ridge for the PCANW Opener. What an awesome group, I love seeing Shay, Curt, Olly, Ed, and everyone I'm forgetting. Go get a proper corner balance. I was driving the #$% out of the car today. On a much colder day and on a much colder track I brought my best lap time down nearly 2 seconds and consistently got close. Video to come soon!

Here's a 360 video of me trying to keep up with a friends 991 GT3: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RcwsWWOH2FQ For 360� Effect - watch in YouTube App on iOS or Android, or watch using Chrome on a Mac/PC.

Brakes did their job over the past three events. Check out the scorching on the front pads! I zapped them with my pyrometer at over 400* at the end of a session. No fade all day and the fluid came out clear! I think I'll start bleeding after each event just to be double sure.

I would be interested in seeing pics of your new piston seals after a few track events when it's been heat cycled a few times and if it still remains pliable.

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awesome video, what lens did you use? I was fixated by watching your Big red Key Fob Handle fling side to side as a G-force indicator. hey, tell us more, "what is that LED rpm gauge indicator strip above your steering column but below the dash cluster?" very F1 like! Is it more a help for peripheral vision rpm monitoring, or a bling factor? Maybe also a distraction at times? review and weblink of that LED bar cluster? and you done a nice good seating of the brake pads now!

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It'll be really interesting to see what they look like compared to this when they were brand new. Last night when I swapped in the street pads they felt an looked fine. Really glad I went with the high temps! Its a Kodak SP360 4K. Super easy to use and edit. Love it so far! Never noticed that before! Actually works pretty good too. I'll have a video up with actual Gs, RPMs, Brake, Throttle, Gear, etc. soon once I figure out the Aim Solo software overlays. Its an iShift RPM gauge and is very useful. You preset everything, when the green lights come on, where redline is, when to flash, etc. It currently is set to start the first green light at 3500 rpm with redline set to around 6900. Over revs in this car prematurely kill motors. I look down track as much as possible and the visual aid is actually pretty helpful. Only thing I'd change is if I could somehow set it up in HUD configuration.

Little more protection:

I'm so glad I found this thread!

By the way, thank you so much for sharing the rotor hat drawings! Will these work for a c2 or only a c4? I'd like to follow the route you did, but just want to make sure I won't run into clearance issues. I have a cnc lathe at work that can make these to a much tighter tolerance in a matter of minutes. Is there any interest from others here? Drawing calls for 6061, but will probably go with 7075.

Ya, I love this thread and build. You've done a great job and thanks for keeping us updated. Quick question, did you go with the flat iShift and mount it just behind the hump on the steering column or the rounded one and mount it on the hump? Thx!

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These are C4S/Turbo only. The C2/C4 have different spindles with different caliper mounts and rotor offsets. In the most basic terms, I put on OEM 996 GT3 Calipers with spacers for the rear calipers, and OEM sized 997 Turbo rotors (albeit custom two piece). I really don't know what would work for narrow body brakes but its not the same as this. Both the flat and the rounded have a flat bottom and mount with basic double sided tape. I went with the rounded and mounted it just in front/behind the bump on the plastic so that the wheel can still fully telescope in and out without hitting the shift light. There are probably photos of this a few pages back that show it better

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Ah, gotchya. I'm no where near the skill level to need these brakes anytime soon. I'll have to do my own homework. Thank you for sharing none the less!

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Happy to share. The stock brakes are fantastic. A good set of pads and fresh fluid is more than enough! Don't let my build sway you into thinking you need to spend money to enjoy your car. You really don't. As an example, if you look at the latest 991 Carrera S's they still use 340mm front rotors and 330mm rears!

C4S big reds are more than adequate for road driving - i'd imagine race track speeds of 120-140mph would require something more substantial

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I gotchya. I don't have an excuse other than I have the cnc machines to make this stuff and I was planning on getting new rotors/pads soon anyways.

Still not 100% on the yellow headlights. I will say though, I just drove home from the office and the yellow was actually surprisingly effective. Any opinions?

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You will attract a lot of attention(and maybe some unwanted from popo and street racers/ricers). If this is not your daily or you don't drive it too much at night, I think they are actually pretty cool and thought of doing it myself. It gives it the GT Lemans class look. Just my $.02

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I don't think they go well with the 996 headlights. Loving the wing though! Where did you get it?

iShift out of stock. Not going to be available for a couple of months. Bummer. I like the yellow. They would make me smile every time I looked at them set against the blue.

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Wing is from Misha Designs. Took a day for paint and a few hours to install but the lines on it are fantastic

Here are some better shots. I like it but still not completely sold. The yellow is pretty friggin bright!

Just found a few shots a photographer took from the Ridge:

got a great guy to clean up your older headlight - cheap too he's stationed at ft lewis and is a mechanic - does great work - had my C4S headlights done before i sold it last year.

IRDC/ICSCC/NASA Licensing tomorrow at the Ridge. Time to renew! Should be able to take a few shots and video. Its a split day between track and classroom with a lot of the PRO3 guys filling in as instructors. Can't wait to get some 1:1 time!

Completed my IRDC Racing School towards my Conference License. Got extremely lucky and was paired up with one of the lead drivers for Pro3...learned a ton! The lines I had for Turns 2, 3, 5, The Carousel, 7, 8, and 12 have all greatly improved. Running at what I thought was half speed, I nearly did a personal best in traffic which is insane. Can't wait to get out there under a hot lapping session to see where I'm at, everything feels so much smoother. I'll put up a video soon to show the difference, the line is night and day compared to before. To top it all off, I had a bit of a engine scare this weekend, heard a loud ticking coming from bank 1 that progressively got worse throughout the day. Thought #1: Lifters Thought #2: Scored Cylinders Thought #3: Ignition (Plugs/Coils/etc.) So, I ended up spending all day under the lift yesterday trying to verify that the ticking/knocking noise was or wasn't lifters or possibly scored cylinders. Took half the engine apart scoping, replacing the plugs, coils and oil. Found no metal in the oil, no scoring, plugs were fine. Couldn't figure it out. About 6 hours later I got the car back together with fresh oil, no scoring I could find in each cylinder, and fresh plugs/coil packs. Then, I started it up only to find the sound was still there. Was pretty disheartened and about to start over when I started looking a little closer to make sure I had the correct diagnosis. After some exploring, I noticed some faint hot air in the bay near the pulleys. Turns out the top of the header to x-pipe connection had popped a small hole in the gasket that wasn't noticeable before. Replaced the gasket and so far the sound hasn't come up again... I don't know if I'm out of the woods just yet, but I'm definitely going to buy a lotto ticket on my way home tonight.

Turns out we've got a little one on the way and a baby seat doesn't quite fit in the 911 anymore. Time for another grocery getter! I was shocked how much these have come down in price!

Those are surprisingly fun to drive.

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This is my 2nd one. Before I had the 3L I6 which was also fun but this is completely different. Great torque and somehow I get about the same mileage 17/21. Found a great deal on it locally: 2006 BMW X5 V8 4.8is 75k Miles 2 Owner 0 Accidents All Service Records All Options including panoramic roof, complete stereo system, heated everything, sun shades and more. Recent Preventative Maintenance (in last 5-10k Miles) Brake Pads and Rotors Niche 20" Wheels with Toyo Proxes Water Pump and Thermostat Front and Rear Air Pumps and Shocks All Fluids - Oil, Diff, Trans, Etc. $12,250 I remember when these were 2,3,4x that and it wasn't that long ago.

That's a heck of a bargain!

I lived in Queen Anne for five years. Those pebble/river rock roads are so nostalgic for me. Don't ask me why. lol And congrats on the little one. Let me know when you sell the C4S

looks like you'll need a 2nd floor on the garage

4.8is sounds great. Remove the mufflers and resonators and it absolutely growls.

Front and rear PDC is nice. I relied on the parking sensors in my 3-series, parking my parent's GLK in Fremont or Cap Hill is a nightmare without them.

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Tell me more. I've been trying to find a good how to on Xoutpost. Sounds like a basic X-pipe muffler from Magnaflow (similar to the M5/M6 jobs) to straight pippes with twin tips would work No kidding! My last X5 didn't and I hit crap. Now I turn them on when I'm pulling into my parking garage at work. Lifesavers!

Congrats on the little one. Almost bought a newer X5 myself before but wanted some bigger 3rd row seats. Looks like you have the black wheel trend going on all your rides now.

How have you liked you H&R Sway bars?

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They're great! Both are currently set to neutral. The car doesn't want to under or over steer any longer once I got the proper alignment/corner balance done. Haven't had to adjust them at all.

Cool. Ordering a set tomorrow. Thx!

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BMW X5 4.8is Exhaust - Resonator Delete. - YouTube Seems much simpler based on the video.

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Man that thing sounds nasty! I'm not sure if I like a BMW that grunts/snorts I found this one from that though that makes it seem pretty straight forward. Also, it has this awesome latino soundtrack: BMW X5 4.4i X-pipe Installation Video and Soundclips. - YouTube

The BMW resonator delete mods always seemed a bit harsh, maybe even too aggressive for dailying. I held off on doing it on my 3er because of that. Ended up getting the BMW performance intake, but no other powertrain mods.

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My V10 M5 was straight piped with a Magnaflow resonator (common practice on M5board) and sounded unreal. The snort in that first video has me thrown off, the second one actually doesn't sound too bad. I'm also really not trying to put any money into this thing, it may be nice but its a friggin commuter

Some new track shots from IRDC Licensing School at The Ridge, Shelton, WA:

Looking good!

Wow, those headlights are intense.

Completed back to back days at the Ridge with Turn 2. What a blast! Missed the rain on Friday and caught an 80* day on Saturday. Track was hot by 10:30 both days making for great lapping. Lots of interesting cars came out including a McLaren MP12C, Lamb Aventador, bunch of stock cars, Radical Racers, lots of GT3s/RS/Cup Cars and more. Learned a ton by riding in a few GT3 and Pro3 cars to see their lines, braking/shifting, etc. Great drivers and guys all around. Took about 15 pages of notes over the weekend ultimately leading to a new personal best at 1:56:81. Previously I was at the 2:00 mark and now I can consistently put down 1:58s with anything higher being caused by traffic. Owe a ton to everyone I've spoken or ridden with over the past few weeks, its starting to show! Day 1's Best: Day 2's Best: Another first, I also unfortunately had my first on track tow of this year. Thankfully it was minor. The shift linkage bushing on the bottom of the shifter popped out while I was exiting the Thumb between 2nd and 3rd gear leaving me without being able to put the car into gear. Got towed back into the paddock, took the center console out and had the car back up and running in 15 minutes. Just got the car off the lift after installing the Numeric Cup Cables. So, so, so, much better. They're firm but I can feel the gear selection much better than before, it helps with confidence but I'll have more on this after the upcoming day back at the Ridge this Saturday. Shifting points at the Thumb and the Kink will help me judge this a little further. More to come

That wheel/rubber combination looks mean!

After getting the shift cables installed, while under the car we noticed that either the RMS or IMS is leaking. Nothing too bad but its going to need to go back to the shop. As there were done within 12 months, this will be warrantied work. Since they will be pulling the transmission off, starting to look at LSDs to make it worth everyone's while. Quaife is a no go as its only setup for accel, not decel. WaveTrac doesn't seem to be track ready for balancing the car under hard braking. Considering the Guards LSDs at the moment. Also, been talking with the guys at Aasco and have calmed my stance quite a bit on the LWFW debate. Their lightweight flywheel and a new sprung clutch are going in as well!

What changed your mind on the LWFW?

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I read every article and post I could find and there's really a lot of misinformation out there. Spoke with Aasco, Tarret, Rennline, Rothsport and others. Bottom line is that a lot of people approve. There may have been a few issues that were posted on the internet but I haven't found anything in my research to persuade me not to install it. There were 7x 911s of various years and models with Aasco LWFW at the track this weekend and all of them reported zero issues. Many were second or third time users as they upgraded to newer or different models. I've run LWFW on all of my track cars (when inside of spec) and haven't had an issue. As a plus, since the shop needs the tranny out to perform warranty work on my IMS/RMS and I already have all of the parts, why not get it installed for free?

Makes sense.

Ahh! My car is at the dealership having my LWFW removed for a new stock dual mass! You'll enjoy the LWFW though it's heaps of fun, just not for the street. The rattle is what got me... I concluded the same thing there really is no substantial evidence on the LWFW debate. However Jake R says don't do it and IMO he seems the most knowledgeable engine builder so out it comes. That's my stace anyway, definitely don't want to derail this thread. Performance wise it's awesome!!

My LWFW and clutch assembly going in now, car is at shop getting IMS RMS done. I read a lot of posts about pros and cons. I also called asco, they settled my concerns. I am old school drag racer, and believe in balancing. I found a complete center balanced kit at Patrick Motorsports. They used a drilling process to do the balancing. Everything is paint coded after balancing, they include all new bolts as well. IMO, this should address vibration issues should they arise. Check them out, I am curious about OP thoughts on the balancing. The entire kit including bearing was $2k.

IMO the balancing is critical. I didn't know the history or brand of the one put in by the previous owner the documentation just said "installed light weight flywheel". So out it comes. I think it puts more strain on the gearbox too but if you drive it right you'd be fine

Both the Patrick Motorsports and Aasco kits are computer balanced. There's not really much more for me to say there. I've had flywheels machined and lightened before, I don't see any need here. When you look at the kit, there's really not much to tell - its beautiful. When you talk to the guys, you understand the level of engineering underway. I won't be doing any balance checks and trust their craftsmanship. For the clutch, I will say it does make a lot of sense to me and others to go sprung. There's more information on here you can search for but essentially I'm going with the equivalent to the Sachs Performance. New pilot, release, pressure plate, etc. No sense in not doing it. I've already installed the lightweight pulley and expect the LWFW will spin even more 'freely' than it might have without. EVOMS will be updating my tune file to adjust for idle - help with stalling, etc.

I had the sprung sachs performance disk and a cargraphic underdrive pulley as well. Puts the onus on the driver to be more on the ball when changing gears to take care of the gearbox. All the tech aside, what are your impressions on how it drives? Or has it not been installed yet for either or you?

After multiple events (7 track days this year) and riding with a lot of highly skilled drivers, I'm starting to get close to running a decent line at Pacific and the Ridge. My lap times are coming down quickly. I started with 2:00 as my best at the Ridge, then 1:59, then 1:58, then 1:56 with consistent 1:58s. Last week was a warm one running back to back days at the Ridge with Turn 2. In the afternoon I ended up getting some brake fade by the afternoon. Even with the hotter pads and larger front rotors I still clocked my front pads at nearly 400* after a no brakes cool down lap. May need to start cruising to the end of the street and back after each session. Or I just need to brake less and get more air to the fronts. I'm cooking RS29s after a hard session. Before I go to Pagid blacks, wanted to give this a shot: Quick Brake Pad Shot: Hopefully the solution. GT2 versus GT3 front brake ducts. The $300 difference. The new ones are friggin huge! Installation requires modifying the front fender liners. Go grab your dremel: Before After Installation complete. These put all of the air right on the rotor! Removed both front dust shields too after seeing a ton of tire rubber bits caught from the track. Size Comparison

Just finished track prepping, bleeding the brakes, adjusting suspension, etc. Here's a shot of them from ground level so you can see how much lower they sit and more functional they (probably) are:

Engine GT3 Throttle Body IPD 82mm Plenum EVOMS Intake and new MAF Sensor EVOMS 92 Tune RSS Underdrive Pulley Exhaust: SS Headers, X-Pipe, Hi-Flow Cats and Mufflers - 997 Quad Tips LN Dual Row IMS Upgrade FVD X51 Deep Oil Sump, Baffle and Pan LN Spin-On Oil Filter Adapter and Magnetic Sleeve RMS/997 AOS Upgraded Alternator New Coils/NGK Plugs Water Pump and Low Temp Thermostat Function First Motor Mounts Drivetrain Numeric Racing Competiton Shifter Numeric Cup Cables AASCO Lightweight Flywheel Clutch Masters FX250 Clutch/Pressure Plate OS Giken LSD Brakes GT3 Calipers with Racing Brake SS Pistons/High Temp Seals Street - Textar Pads - Front/Rear Track - Pagid RS29 - Front/Rear Coleman 2-Piece Slotted Rotors - Front/Rear Motul RBF 600 Brake Fluid SS Brake Lines - Front/Rear GT2 Brake Ducts - Front/Rear Suspension KW V3 Coilovers H&R Sway Bars - Front/Rear Tarett Endlinks - Front/Rear Tarett Monoball Camber Plates - Front/Rear GT3 Control Arms - Front/Rear Upgraded Thrust Arms Adjustable Rear Dogbones and Toe Links Powerflex Bushings Corner Balanced with -3/-2.5 Camber Wheels Street - HRE 540 19x9/19x12 with MSS (235/315) Street - Turbo Hollow Twists with Falken Azenis (235/295) Track - CCW C10 18x10/18x12 with NT01s (235/315) Apex Wheel Studs Interior Agency Power Half Roll Cage Sparco EVO 2 Seats Recaro Side Mounts Planted Seat Mounts Sparco 6pt Harnesses GT3 Console Delete Ecliptech Shift Light Rennline Short Hub and Quick Release Momo Monte Carlo 350mm Steering Wheel Valentine One Dension Gateway 500 with Bluetooth Track - AIM Solo DL Track - GoPro 3+/Kodak SP360 4K Track - Schroth Hans/Black Armor SA2015 Helmet Exterior Street - OEM Front 4S Lip Track - Turbo Front Lip Misha GT2M Rear Wing Insert Paint Correction Rolled Rear Fenders

And on the 7th day, he rested.... Great build. What's next?

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First session at the Ridge starts in 24 hours!

Quick question, what tire sizes are you running on the track? Went back through the thread but could only find the CCW wheel sizes and that you are running NT01s. Thx!

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235/40/18 315/30/18 Could have gone wider on the CCWs - might on the next set. 35 heat cycles along with driving to the track and back and they've finally corded. They were consistent, might ask around but most of the 911s that drive in are on NT01s or MPSCs. If they're trailered, almost 100% are on Hoosiers.

Ok, cool. I'm going with 245F/315R NT01's on a set of CCWs arriving this week. If you're running an 80mm difference with AWD then hopefully my C2 won't push too bad with 70mm.

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I think you'll be fine but I admittedly don't know what the NB cars run. That sounds familiar but I'll take a closer look next time. I have to stick to matching AWD tire circumferences to protect the front diff, which ironically might be coming out just as these tires end their life. If it wasn't for that, I'd go probably go much wider on both.

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If you go this route it will be interesting to get your perspective on 2 vs 4 WD on these cars.

Quick lap or two with my Dad from yesterday. Looks like he was having fun! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uwjf0EYuVg4

It really helps to have some defining feature amongst a sea of Porsche's when you are navigating through hundreds of photos. Yellow headlights on a dark car really stand out. Finally found this photographer's photos from the Ridge day on 4.29.16: And from 4.2.16

Great video of lapping with your father. Good to see another 4S owner tracking their car. I've had my old man on track as well. He lasted about 5 Laps at Sebring before he hit eject. Not always easy being a passenger .

New go fast parts getting installed while I'm out of town: Clutch Masters FX250 Clutch/Pressure Plate Aasco Lightweight Flywheel OS Giken LSD Will be sticking with the AWD setup for now to directly compare lap times on June 11/12th.

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Please post before and after results! You haven't by chance done any before and after dynos have you?

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I'll post up some initial feel as well as video from the track. I should be able to post side by side numbers from my Aim Solo too to compare before and after at the Ridge. During my last event at the Ridge, well over half of the turns and sections could benefit from the LSD both braking in and accelerating out. I run with the PSM off but you can still feel it tapping the front brakes or engine braking under hard acceleration in a few areas scrubbing speed. Should be a serious night a day difference under initial brake and exit throttle. There's a baseline dyno from before the bug bite me. Need to get in sometime this summer to check on how this tune is performing - Working with EvoMS on a few things. Not convinced its maximizing the larger amount of air and exhaust throughout the band. Left foot braking is a trip!

LSD has arrived. Time for the install! Meanwhile, Aloha from Big Island!

Just read the rest of your post! Looking forward to your thoughts on the LWFW

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Punalu u'!!! (Black sands beach) Now hurry back so we can hear more about the LSD.

Here is a side by side of the new OS Giken vs the Stock differential. It's really surprising how different they are. (Of course) In order to install, we realized we needed to use shorter axle stubs as the stock stubs are too long and shaped much differently. They wouldn't sit flush and could only be turned a few threads in the new differential. The stocks use a ~80mm M10 which is far too long for the new hubs. The new ones use only a 40mm M10x1.50 Allen head with a spline washer. Upon a test fit it actually seems to be a much firmer connection. I don't believe this main bolt sees much tension but the idea if it did of the torque going over only 40mm on the new setup versus 80mm on the stock seems like an improvement. Anyway, here's some photos: New Short Hub versus Old - note the shorter height and difference in the mounting bolt holes. The new setup requires a 40mm Allen head while the stock unit has a small center cylinder in the differential that fits into the old stub hub on the right. New Short Hub vs Old - Note the difference in the center mounting bolt holes. OS Giken versus Stock Open Differential. Its shocking how easily the stock differential turns by hand. Very little force. OS Giken top view - notice the clutch plates inside. Stock Open Diff Top View The Housing The Transmission - were also installing a 2nd Gear Detent from GBox to prevent the common 2nd grind and pop outs. With the cup cables this should be a big improvement. You can also see what the function first transmission mounts look like on the right side of the photo. They're really well constructed.

Mind if I ask who you went through for the LSD and how much? (I think that question could be taken wrong.). Also, how hard was it to source the shorter axle stub? I wonder if the same would be required on a C2.

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If you simply search for OS Giken G50 LSD, there are a ton of vendors. I was able to get mine straight from OS Giken and if I had to do it again I would recommend going through California Motorsport. Prices don't fluctuate much so it's better to work with a vendor that will stand by you and the product. They answered a ton of my questions and were extremely helpful in helping me decide which LSD to use. The shorter axle hubs are constructed by GBox out of Colorado. These guys are awesome as well and have been super helpful. They make a lot of race or cup spec parts you simply won't find anywhere else such as the 2nd Gear Detent, complete LSD and Trans Rebuilds, gearing and LSDs, Custom GT3 shift linkages and more. Super knowledgeable staff. Next time I'm out that way I'm definitely stopping by.

Cool. Thanks!

Is that a GT's Kombucha on your bench? My beverage of choice while working on my car as well.

Looks like the guys found another little issue. When installing the differential, due to its larger size there is a piece of cast that's in the way. Nothing a little grinding can't fix. You can see the piece in question here. The arrow is pointing to the piece of cast that needed to be grind down for the new LSD to fit.

This LSD better be worth it for all that trouble. I expect no less than 2s off your lap times to be worthwhile.

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3s with the LWFW. Found out I have to modify my axle flange if I go with the Giken as it is for an X50. Wavetrak has one that will bolt right on but it's TB. Decisions decisions. California Motorsports is awesome to work with.

Car is done! Picking it up in the morning from Chris's German Auto in Redmond, WA...guys did a ton of work! More to come

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Sorry if I missed a post along the way but you kept the FWD in car while installing the LSD? Is that right? If so, how will the LSD behave with viscous coupling in place or vice versa?

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Keeping it AWD to compare lap times with before first. Then may decide to try RWD. The car is corner balanced so I didn't want to have to add that on top of taking out the entire front drive. The coupling and everything is fine shouldn't change much. The big difference will be with the PSM. I already run with it turned off and may need to disable it as the LSD will keep things in check in both decel and accel where with PSM on it may interfere and counter the LSDs actions.

Interesting. I'm eager to hear your impressions once you've tracked the car. Agree 100% on PSM, the first thing I do when leaving the pit is turn it off. PSM does spooky things on the track in my opinion. Side note: how's your steering temp holding up since you still have the FWD?

I'm interested in how big of a difference you feel in rear end stability while trail breaking. Still trying to decide between clutch and TB and from what I can tell, this is the major difference.

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The unfortunate part is you can never fully get PSM disengaged unless you disable it underneath the center console or through the fusebox. I can't recall which does what but I'll need to research it more before my next event. As for the steering temp, I have it logged and will take a look. Haven't noticed any issues over the first 7 or so track days this year. Has this come up for you? The AWD system seems to do a decent job but I agree, it should be night and day.

Just picked the car up and drove it home. First impression: The difference is extreme. Let's do a quick run down: Clutch Pedal: Feels exactly the same as stock with the FX250. The engage points are the same but the amount of grab is much better. LWFW: Acceleration is insanely better. Its nuts how fast it revs now. The flywheel was a massive upgrade I should have done a long time ago. Matched with the lightweight pulley is pretty awesome. LSD: Haven't had a real chance to open it up yet but will soon. I take my car to Chris's German in Redmond and there is this really, really steep on ramp onto 520 that is in the shape of a large S going uphill the entire way after you leave the shop. Accelerating up the hill (The uphill S is about 3/4 of a mile before you get on the highway) it was easily noticeable how much more power the wheels were able to put down and how much more stable the car was. If I had to guess it was about a 10 mph difference through the same twists as I use that as a quick feeler after any performance work. I won't be able to comment on deceleration or trail braking feel until I get to the track. No one should be able to on the street. Nothing dramatic yet but I'll have lap times and section speeds in two weeks. Idle: Needs to be monitored at a stop but honestly its much better than other LWFW cars I've had. Easy to manage in traffic. Heel-Toe: Requires much less effort, simpler. Less of a push and more of a really light flick to rev match. Sound: The LWFW makes more noise. It sounds like a box of rocks inside the car. Outside it sounds like an exhaust leak. Whatever. When you rev the car its quickly drowned out by the beautiful notes of the intake and exhaust. The 2nd gear detent works. Get it if you're transmission is ever out. Mine only did it rarely when cold but its cheap insurance versus an early rebuild. I believe all 986/996 transmissions will have this issue at some point. Next event is June 11th/12th with back to back days at the Ridge. New NT01s are on the way. Can't wait! Completed Work: New LN IMSB (Warranty Repair. 1st time in Shop history after 100s of installs a seal failed.) AASCO Lightweight Flywheel Clutch Masters FX250 Clutch with Sprung Pressure Plate rated for ~400hp Flywheel/Clutch/Plate Balancing OS Giken LSD G50 Short Hubs GBox 2nd Gear Detent New Clutch Fork & Pivot Arm Fresh 75w/90 Fluid Fresh Oil

Great feedback. Nothing like the hum of new nt01s at 5:30 AM on the way to the track.

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They definitely make some noise! Was considering Hoosiers this round but the added cost of trailering the car was a bit too rich for me just for track days. MPSC too. Most of the 991 GT3 guys agreed that you can get more from the NT01s for less than you can from the MPSCs. But if I ever do convert the car to full race mode than I'll definitely be on R7s at the least. My last set of NT01s lasted 36 heat cycles flipping them only once. I think if I had been smarter and paid closer attention I could have flipped them twice and gotten another 2-3 days (10-15 cycles) out of them. Thats with -2.3/-2 camber.

Engine GT3 Throttle Body IPD 82mm Plenum EVOMS Intake and new MAF Sensor EVOMS 92 Tune RSS Underdrive Pulley Exhaust: SS Headers, X-Pipe, Hi-Flow Cats and Mufflers - 997 Quad Tips LN Dual Row IMS Upgrade (redone 5/25/16) FVD X51 Deep Oil Sump, Baffle and Pan LN Spin-On Oil Filter Adapter and Magnetic Sleeve RMS/997 AOS Upgraded Alternator New Coils/NGK Plugs Water Pump and Low Temp Thermostat Function First Motor Mounts Drivetrain Numeric Racing Competiton Shifter Numeric Cup Cables AASCO Lightweight Flywheel Clutch Masters FX250 Clutch/Pressure Plate Flywheel/Clutch/Plate Balancing OS Giken LSD G50 Short Axle Hubs GBox 2nd Gear Detent New Clutch Fork & Pivot Arm Brakes GT3 Calipers with Racing Brake SS Pistons/High Temp Seals Street - Textar Pads - Front/Rear Track - Pagid RS29 - Front/Rear Coleman 2-Piece Slotted Rotors - Front/Rear Motul RBF 600 Brake Fluid SS Brake Lines - Front/Rear GT2 Brake Ducts - Front/Rear Suspension KW V3 Coilovers H&R Sway Bars - Front/Rear Tarett Endlinks - Front/Rear Tarett Monoball Camber Plates - Front/Rear GT3 Control Arms - Front/Rear Upgraded Thrust Arms Adjustable Rear Dogbones and Toe Links Powerflex Bushings Corner Balanced with -3/-2.5 Camber Wheels Street - HRE 540 19x9/19x12 with MSS (235/315) Street - Turbo Hollow Twists with Falken Azenis (235/295) Track - CCW C10 18x10/18x12 with NT01s (235/315) Apex Wheel Studs Interior Agency Power Half Roll Cage Sparco EVO 2 Seats Recaro Side Mounts Planted Seat Mounts Sparco 6pt Harnesses GT3 Console Delete Ecliptech Shift Light Rennline Short Hub and Quick Release Momo Monte Carlo 350mm Steering Wheel Valentine One Dension Gateway 500 with Bluetooth Track - AIM Solo DL Track - GoPro 3+/Kodak SP360 4K Track - Schroth Hans/Black Armor SA2015 Helmet Exterior Street - OEM Front 4S Lip Track - Turbo Front Lip Misha GT2M Rear Wing Insert Paint Correction Rolled Rear Fenders

That's amazing. Well done. Now which direction to go next? Weight reduction? 4.0L? Or just relax and enjoy it?If you manage to do the last one let me know what script the Dr. put you on because I need some. #modaddict

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The fastest lap at the Ridge I've heard of in a 996 with NT01s is 1:53. That was in a street driven GT3 with quite a bit of work driven hard by a PCA Instructor I know. Based on power to weight ratio, I also use Pro3 cars as a good yardstick which will do 1:57s consistently. 997/991 GT3s run 1:51-1:53. My best is 1:56:81 with an average 1:57-59 depending on traffic and track conditions. Before the NT01s I couldn't break the 2:00 barrier. I'm improving here and there and can't justify going any further. I think this car is capable of 1:54s or better now. Even before this recent work, it is still faster than I am able to drive it. Until I solve that and get more consistent. I think this is it for now. Famous last words right

Just finished a weekend at the Ridge. Was unfortunately cut a day short due to a failing Clutch salve cylinder but was able to run the car through its paces for a few sessions. LWFW: Wish I had done this sooner. The car accelerates so much faster where needed on the track and makes downshifts so much easier. Can't say enough. If you're going to have the transmission out for any work you should really consider doing this with a sprung clutch. OS Giken: Made a huge difference. Really helped the car settle at the end of the straights allowing more controlled braking and easier throttle control. The car is definitely more Rear Wheel biased now which I really, really enjoy. Its insane how much more speed I can carry consistently into the same corners than before and how much earlier the car allows me to get on the throttle. The PSM doesn't kick in unless I'm completely off line or missing braking points. Its a real kick in the pants and feels like a completely different car. Clutch Slave Cylinder Failure: While on track, the car began grinding from 2nd into 3rd without the clutch pedal all the way to the floor which I initially thought was just the transmission having difficulty when under load and the G's of the turns. But then 4th. Then 5th. The clutch would only engage with the last inch of pedal travel and would not engage with enough force above 3k rpm. With the new higher friction clutch which requires some additional force, this made the car almost un-drivable. My leg and ankle are still pretty sore from driving back the 60+ miles to Seattle in traffic - Imagine having to use only that last inch above the floor the entire time during a two hours of rush hour traffic. No bueno. Its a $50 part too, I'm going to add another to my spare track parts (+MAF +Brake Pedal Switch) just in case. My personal best before was 1:56:8X before the above work. I averaged low 1:57s throughout the sessions on brand new NT01s. Couldn't see the whole weekend of track days due to the clutch issues which was a bummer, would have probably cut down my lap times quite a bit as I got more familiar with the new car dynamics and as the tires wore in. More track days upcoming. If I get the car back this week I'll be heading to Pacific on Friday.

Sounds like a blast! Glad the upgrades are working out.

Great feedback on the LSD and LWFW. Sounds like the expense was well worth it for us track junkies. If you are replacing the slave cylinder go ahead and replace the release arm as they can wear over time and create a creaking noise, mine did anyways. I think its only a $35 part. I know how frustrating it can be to be sidelined at a track event.

Got the car back and went straight out to Pacific for a track day with BMWCCA. Set new personal best: 1:36:77 Previous was 1:40:22 The LSD/LWFW work. More seat time works as my previous instructor at Pacific was able to pull 8x 1:36s before both. Lots more to learn but for now...Woo!

Congrats! That's a huge gain!

Here's the session video. Watching this compared to my laps there earlier this year is pretty nuts. The difference is night and day https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SbLbF1-frfw

Here's the 360 Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RgdlteO1j_A

[Image-only post; no author-written text. Original image references:] https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlist.com-vbulletin/2000x962/13497646_1291716730856645_7409668864957243547_o_33df7610731943d9eed6f4a77afa187130dd20ea.jpg

Chasing a 997.2 GT3RS for 4 laps in the rain at the Ridge https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y0WzkDEUedg

Great driving. I thought you were going to get a point by from him for a minute!...I love the lens on the camera. Now if you just had Harry's to add a little telemetry.....

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Still need to figure this one out as I really like this angle versus the multiple GoPro setup I used to run. I've paid for Harry's but have been using an AimSolo DL for the past few years for on track use as it captures a ton of data - I'm pretty pot committed The only problem I have with it is trying to get the Gauge overlays to work and calibrating it. Haven't quite gotten the hang of it

Do you have any more info on the 2nd gear detent, my 2nd gear a bit notchy when box is cold?? Thanks!!

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Its hard for me to say. Between all of the new parts I'm actually not sure how much its helped. I don't have comparison photos otherwise I'd share them but from the shop they said it was a pretty simple install. My car also shifted hard when cold, seems normal but I guess I can tell you that I haven't had a single (NOT ONE) 2nd gear pop out since. I've grinded from 2nd to 3rd at the track under load due to poor clutch action on my part - been trying to commit to the one heartbeat shifts but its tough. If you're doing some work in that area I'd say go for it. Call up the guys at GBox in CO - they're super helpful

Spent a few hours cleaning the car up trying to get all of the track grime off. Finally invested in a gas pressure washer and tried my hand at the foam cannon with two bucket wash. No wax or clay bar this round, just a quick rinse.

Looks great. I think I like it better without the yellow headlights.

Do you DD that car too? Damn, I can't see getting in or out of any businesses around me with that height without scraping or taking out the front bumper.

Chasing a 2015 Audi R8 V10 and 2016 Porsche GT3RS: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eQhEntBv_mo

[QUOTE=vandersmith;13457630]Chasing a 2015 Audi R8 V10 and 2016 Porsche GT3RS: Looks like a lot of fun, what was used to record in 3D? That was neat...

What a terrific thread, I've really enjoyed it. If I may be so bold as to ask the definition of a few acronyms... I'm completely new to both Porsche and the 996. Bought a 2001 C4 this weekend and don't even have it yet. You guys seem to talk in a kind of language all your own! Can I get some translations: 1. AOS 2. PDC 3. DD 4. DE 5. 997 TT 6. plenum/ TB 7. HRE 540/ MSS I read the whole thread and figured out a 50 others I haven't listed, but I haven't broken the code on these seven yet. Thanks! Lee...

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Congrats on the new car! See in lines above

Colin : Thanks for the quick response; some obvious and some not so much! This car is not planned as a daily driver, I've got an older BMW 3-series for that, but I plan to drive it a lot. Will split duties with my 2002 Maserati Coupe and whatever comes next as an alternate day driver! Not really a car guy, but I woke up the other day and realized I'd never had a Porsche, so...now (or at least soon) I'll have one and a lot more to learn. Lee...

Went to a BMWCCA Dyno day this weekend with some interesting results. They had a AWD dyno but I didn't realize I needed to remove the drive shaft in order to get accurate readings due to the front differential...I'm an idiot. The results were off: 270awhp/200torque I didn't find any intake or exhaust leaks, the oil was fresh, the ignition system has been overhauled and compression is fine. Turns out the Pcar AWD system isn't like typical Audi/BMW/Subaru setups and I didn't realize that made running on the dyno much more complicated. The front differential is all mechanical/fluid (viscous clutch) and transfers from the normal 5% of power to anywhere up to 40% when any wheel slippage front or rear is detected by the wheel sensors. Its not a standard 50/50 which I knew but didn't realize it made this process that different. To counter this parasitic loss, when the Twin Turbo cars (AWD too) dyno they remove the drive shaft to the front wheels (converting to RWD) to get a more accurate reading. This has zero impact on the rest of the car as there are no electronics involved in the front diff and PSM only applies to braking. In my case, by running on the dyno in AWD the car believes the fronts are slipping as they are spinning at a slower speed than the rears. If the dyno isn't setup to lock both rollers so they are at equal speed, (which it wasn't in this case) this can actually damage the driveshaft and differentials by boiling the fluid as it tries to keep up and transfer power constantly to where it senses it needs it. Long story short: Time to pop off the crankshaft and see what it does next time.

No more weird clutch spring thing! No more AWD!

Sweet! Can't wait to hear your feedback on the differences and how it feels. Now that you have it nearly perfect are you sure you don't want to sell it and start over with a 996 C2S? Lol, idiots.

Holy crap. I should have done this sooner. Feedback: The suspension obviously was setup for AWD. The alignment is close but the sway bars are much too stiff both in the front and rear. The stiffness in the front was causing the car to push understeer if I turned in too early, where AWD I could hit the throttle and simply push through the apex. The stiffness in the rear meant the throttle needed to be added with much more finesse through turns and directly linked with steering. Too much throttle and the car will begin to oversteer where the AWD system would simply pull through to the apex. Where I'd have my foot down exiting with AWD I'd have to lightly increase the power in relation to the steering wheel gradually getting back to center. If the steering angle was too steep, the PSM immediately kicked in. Many times obstructively. I took the PSM off a little prematurely and ended up coming out of a long turn sideways. Need to get the diff and axles out and corner balance as the combination of too stiff/heavy sway bars in the wrong places, opposite toe/caster for AWD vs RWD, really had the car fighting itself in undesirable places on the track the whole day but it was a ton of fun to try something new. The lines required to get the most from the RWD system versus AWD are much cleaner, smoother momentum lines. I'm driving less 'aggressive' and more 'clinical' because of it which results in better times. The AWD system really masks a lot of bad habits and allows you to be faster than you are. I learned a lot today. Any way, we're going RWD based on this: Same suspension. Same alignment (GT3 specs). Same sway bar settings (middle on F/R of H&Rs) Same brakes. Same driver. Same track conditions as many other days I've been there. 8 events this year. Personal Times: AWD Best at the Ridge: 1:56:35 (June) I can say its taken a whole season but I can now drive the crap out of the car with the AWD system. This is about the best I can do with that configuration. RWD: Morning, Cold Track, Cold Tires: 1:56:50 (Today) This was insane. It was 2nd lap of today. 9am. Cold. Windy. Bad tire pressures. You name it. RWD: Afternoon, Hot Track: 1:54:30 (Today) 40+ laps today. Most under 1:57 on a poorly setup RWD car and I pull out my best yet. It took multiple events over the past few seasons to break 2:00. Even longer and some add'l parts to get down to 1:58s. 30 minutes. Drive shaft out. 40 laps on a bad setup. 2 seconds faster. Still have 70 lbs of crap to remove. Unreal.

Gaining 2 sec with everything feeling off? Wow. You always hear 2wd is better on the track but this is the first real data I've heard on it. Congrats on the improvement.

Awesome update. Love the compare/contrast. Keep up the good work!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RAs-Rkg3oxk&feature=em-upload_owner

RWD is done, Differential and Axles are out, Stubs are in...I guess I'm a 996 C4-2S now Quick bang to loosen the axles. Axle bolts off. Axles disconnected. Diff hanging by support bracket. Getting ready to drop. Out.

It's now 4wd b/c you can alternate between rwd & awd :O

Big week coming up. Monday: 3rd Set of NT01s arrive Tuesday: Dyno Tuning Wednesday: Corner Balance + Alignment Friday: PCA day at The Ridge Can't wait!

New Alignment and Corner Balance with help from many here:

Here's some track video from Friday's PCANW day at the Ridge: Car was aligned, lowered and corner balanced at TruLine Bellevue to the GT2 Specs with new NT01s. The car responded brilliantly but was a handful. Took an entire day to get the line dialed as the car favored much more oversteer versus the predictable throttle and push thru apex that existed with the previous alignment. Slow in fast out matters much more now as throttle application mid-turn requires much more finesse than before. Turn in was much improved. Entry, Mid, Exit speeds are all relatively the same but the car is much more lively. I dig it and will need a few more days to adjust. Lap times we're similar 1:55s-1:56 on new NT01s that weren't broken in. They should drop a few ticks as I acclimate and they break in. Anyway, here's the final session's video chasing a few instructors and my buddy in his 930 Turbo. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r6ry1Epq9JQ

Delete. Answered my own question. PM sent.

Thanks for posting that video! Very fun to watch... Did your buddy tell you why he spun out?

Update: After 17 Track events this season, I've finally worn down my new Coleman Rotors past their safe point, the slots are almost completely gone on my front rights. Front Pagid RS29s are also toast. New ones are on the way so I can get back out there. In the meantime: Air Box - Going to take Raby's advice and try to source a 997 3.8 Intake Box and dyno against the EVO kit Pedals - I've had a set of the adjustables from Rennsport in a box this whole season, time to install Brakes - I've also had a GT3 Master Cylinder laying around, time to put her in Goods for sale: Plugs/Coils - Brand new 996 GT3 F/R Rotors with lots of life Complete 996 C4S/TT Red Brakes (Rotors/Calipers/Pads) Set of Hollow Turbo Twists and more. Will post in for sale section soon

Sounds like you are getting a ton of time in! I'd take the coil packs and plugs, was on my list to do this winter. Also interested to know if you still have the mufflers. I'll look for your ad, I'm sure there are some other bits I could use!

Selling off a ton of spare parts. Get your winter upgrades/maintenance items here:

Hey, I just noticed your thread, a lot of good info. I've done a LS3 GM motor swap in my C4S and ate the front CV joints pretty quick so I've converted mine to RWD also, Just yesterday I had someone post on my build thread about the front suspension geometry being different on the AWD vers the RWD and suggested I change the shock uprights. Wondering if you've heard of this. This is a copy of that post "With the front drive disconnected, you also have the added benefit of being able to switch out the shock uprights. The turbo uprights are offset to accommodate the driveshafts while the GT2 (RWD turbo) or GT3 (RWD nonturbo) had more 'proper' uprights which go straight up. The difference in suspension geometry and 'feel' is substantial, with the proper uprights having a much more natural and intuitive feel on road and track. Having driven a 996 GT2 vs my 996TT back to back, this is the first and most prominent difference I noticed between the two. Bump steer especially is terrible on the TT due to the uprights/geometry." I'm looking into it myself. My Build Thread: http://ls1tech.com/forums/conversion...ersion-21.html

The off-season work begins: Brakes. Really surprised these lasted a complete season - 2k track miles wore my rotors and Pagid RS29s down to their minimums. These 2-Piece rotors are custom made by Coleman Racing in Michigan - easy to replace, less expensive than stock, and free up about 6lbs of critical unsprung weight.

HMM.... I need new rotors and pads.. Interested in the custom ones you had made.

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https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...porsche-6.html

any noticeable difference in performance between slotted & the stock, cross-drilled rotors? My rears need to be replaced and I'm curious how those slotted rotors compare to the OEMs. Fwiw I have the standard brembos on a C2. Very little track use, moderate canyon use and some long trips. Thanks for any help!

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If you're not tracking it just stick with better pads and stock rotors. There are a few options for C2s and plenty of research available here. 17 track events last year. The rotors are larger yet lighter. The calipers are now 6Pot/4pot. The pads are twice the size.

Just curious if you've given any thought to replacing your front shock uprights with the C2 style, if in fact they are different then the C4's.

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Not really interested in doing it. The GT2/GT3 assemblies are near impossible to find. The spacing of the caliper bolts are different so the GT3 Calipers are not a direct bolt on. I'm not really interested in C2 mounting kits to support them. The struts sizes are also different meaning new struts and springs all around. The offsets of the rotors are different. That's about another $4-6k for things I've already solved for that won't really benefit in faster lap times.

thanks Vandersmith

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I can help you with the GT2/3 uprights if you are interested, no problem getting them here to Seattle. The 146mm caliper bolt spacing on the GT2/3 uprights works fine for GT3 brakes, unless they are the 225mm PCCB calipers. If they are the PCCBs, Porsche uses an adapter to fit them on 146mm spacing uprights (used on 997tt) you can use to fit them. The front struts you currently have may be able to utilize sleeves that are often used to fit smaller diameter struts into the 51 or 52mm GT2/3 uprights. You may need new hats for your Colemans. Nice looking set-up!

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I would be actually interested in some help in figuring this out, thanks for the response! The Big Reds are from a 996 GT3 so they should be the 146mm and would bolt on directly to the new uprights. I haven't been able to find the Uprights anywhere for reasonable prices so if you know a way I'm all ears. I still have a set of GT3 front rotors so converting the suspension might not be that big of a deal but would mean either using them or selling them and getting new hats made for the Colemans. For what I could get for my 996TT/C4S KW V3s, it would also open up a new set of coilovers. Possibly even motons or something but I'd also need new top hats at least for the fronts.

Back after being on the road for a few weeks with work. Doing some winter track prep soon: -All Fluids Flushed -Engine Check up -GT3 Master Cylinder Install -Front Radiator Clean up and Rennline Mesh install -Joe Toth 2-piece front splitter -GT3 Euro 5pt Front Sway Bar -New Rear Toe Links (bent one) -New Front Toe/Bump Steer kit -Few new bushings -F/R Rennline tow hooks -New SS Headers, Gaskets, HW On the bubble: -New Billet Chain guides and Chain -Valve Job -Accusump w/Remote Filter -Hoosiers -New 360 VR Camera

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The other benefit could be replacing wheel bearings, hubs and stub axles with fresh pieces. Relatively cheap compared to snapping one. Not sure how many miles are on your original ones, but some consider these wear items after lots of track time. I went RSpros, figuring I can sell my pss10s... I can appreciate the upgrade justifications, haha

Track Off-season: Full day complete. TopGearUK Headers - wasn't happy with the TopSpeed ebayers Torque Solutions Front Bump steer Toe Kit NGK Iridium Plugs (easy to do with the headers off) Cabin Filter Coolant Temp Sensor Coolant Tank Coolant Level Sensor Oil Pressure Relief Valve & Spring New Crankshaft Position Sensors Rear Toe Links after the old ones bent Cleaned up the front radiators Rennline Front Grill Mesh Rennline Front GT3 Sway Bar The goods ready to get installed: Old heavy headers: New lighter, SS headers: Comparison: New Rennline GT3 Front Sway Bar: Old H&R C4S Bar: New Rennline Tarrett GT3 Bar: Rear Toe Link Comparison: Old Bent Toe Link: Front Bumper Off at the end of the Night: Clean those radiators!

Cool info on the weights. Thanks for posting.

Little more winter maintenance completed. Oil Change - 11 qts of Rotella T6 (deeper pan means more oil than stock) Oil Filter - Napa Gold 1420 (spin-on) Coolant Flush - Fresh Pentosin Pentofrost SF Adjusted my headlight mounts. Here's how to lower your headlights to fill the bumper gap Here's a shot of the new Oil Pressure Relief Valve and Spring. After 117k miles I thought this for sure was going to be in bad shape but it actually looked fine. If you can't tell the difference niether could I but I ended up replacing both anyway.

What tires (sizes) do you use on your 19" HRE ? Thinking of 19" but will it add more weight? Thank you

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HRE 540s 19 x 8.5 (245/35/19) et 43 19 x 12 (295/30/19) et 43

Hey Colin what sway bar settings are you running now? My 4S is also rwd. I'm thinking of adding a GT2 rear bar before next track day.

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Ugh. I started with the Eibach Sway Bars. Broke the rear sway bar arm, no idea how. Ordered the C4S H&R full set. Love em. Went complete RWD. Front H&R C4S bar was WAY too heavy/stiff. Put in Tarett's GT3 Front Sway bar. I'm not sure what the differences are for our rear bars but for the fronts its extreme. Ex: The front C4S H&R bar weighed 11lbs. The Tarett weighed 7lbs. So after all that I have 3 sway bars to sell in my garage. Today: Front - Tarett GT3 Sway Bar - One from Full Soft Rear - H&R C4S Sway Bar - Neutral

Thanks. The GT3 bars are hollow while the H&R and original 4S are solid. My tech recommends going softer up front and stiffer rear with the GT2 bar, assuming hollow as well. Ill report back after I swap and get some seat time.

After replacing a few suspension parts, corner balance and alignment underway at Tru Line Bellevue. Shooting for: Front: Camber: -2.5 Caster: 7.8 Toe: -0.7mm Total Toe: -1.4mm Steer Ahead: 0 Height: 115mm Rear: Camber: -2.25 Toe: 0.7mm Total Toe: 1.4mm Thrust Angle: 0 Height: 128mm

Almost nailed it: Total car weight with full tank+driver: 3410 Without Driver (175): 3235

vandersmith, How are you liking the top gear x pipe and headers? would you buy them again?

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I'd 100% recommend TopGear. The fit and finish of both parts is exceptional all for a reasonable price. Crazy to think you can order something for less from the UK that looks/works better than most parts being made in the US - with shipping included.

Car is now for sale with everything - a new-to-me GT3 will be here in Seattle soon. Would like to offer it to Rennlist first before it ends up on BaT. https://rennlist.com/forums/vehicle-...k-prepped.html

Still available - come get it!

...

SOLD - to a fellow rennlister. I'll let him make the announcement but congrats - this is a fantastic car going to great home. The torch has been passed

Congrats!

Congrats, thanks for sharing so much info with the 996 forum.

ya buddy, congrats to seller and buyer, had the pleasure to get a ride in it...amazing car!

Thanks vandersmith! Awesome car that I'm glad to now own. I'll keep this thread alive since it's a great resource for other 996 owners. Had a great drive home from Seattle to LA. I noticed a slight front end wobble at freeway speeds and found a toasted lower control arm bushing when I racked it up. Good thing I had some 997 GT3 lower control arms in the garage! Changed them out last night and to the alignment shop today. Those of you with keen eyes will notice the extra nut on the inside of the driver side LCA. That's where I mounted the headlight adjuster and did away with the plastic clip. I'll be at the Camarillo Autocross Saturday and ACS Sunday! Then a good undercarriage pressure washing... OJLlVuE.jpg Tt8zR9u.jpg

I will forever regret selling this car but am truly happy its found a wonderful home! Quinn approved!