Good deal on 2000 Porsche 911 Cab?

Hi, I have always loved Porsche cars, but didn't feel that i could realistically afford them. The thing that scares me most is the cost of repairs when something does go wrong. I come from owning Japanese cars exclusively, so i am used to low maintenance cars. In any case, i found a 2000 Porsche 911 Cab at a local dealer with 80k miles. The car was purchased new by the last owner. I don't know if the IMS bearing was replaced, but the motor was replaced in 2009. Overall, the car appears to be in good shape. The dealer is doing a lot of work prior to sale, including replacing both catalytic converters, alignment, hydraulic flush, and the major service. The price is $20,000. Is this a fair price? i was also considering spending about $10k more to get a 2001 911 turbo that is listed by a Rennlist member, or even a higher mileage (near 100k miles) 997. Any suggestions? I have searched and read a thousand posts here and it seems that the general consensus is get the newest 911 that you can afford. Thank you, Brian

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i know a guy who has an 02 cab in Gaurds Red with 64500 miles on it with 0 issues in near perfect condition that could be selling his for $22,000 to Rennlist members. 😜

I paid $13,000 for my 2000 911 Cab with 85k on it last Summer here in California. Nicely optioned with Sport Design wheels but it had not had much done to it for two years. I've put about $2000 into it so far for parts and fluids, plus I swapped over new wheels and Pilot Super Sports from my totaled Boxster S. I've tried to go through everything maintenancewise and give the car a total underside detailing. Car spent its life in TX and CA, body and paint in great shape but a paint detail is next. I see no evidence of any accidents. I have not done the IMS yet, waiting till the clutch needs to be done. Running the hardtop at the moment but I do need to replace the rear window. Not sure if this helps, I think I got a great price albeit with some elbow grease required. These are fairly easy to work on, I've done everything myself except replacing the leaky air/oil separator, after doing that on the Boxster I was happy to pay my mechanic for that job. Good luck!

Get the turrbroooo

$20K is to high from what I've seen. There are hundreds for sale and winter is the best time to buy a convertible...Check CarGurus and Autotrader to gauge pricing.

Turbo

Agreed on it being too much. 996 cabs are a buyers market and can be found all over the place right now. Keep up with the search and monitor the Today's Craigslist Finds thread on this forum. There are better deals and steals to be had out there.

If you can swing a Turbo, well, you can�t really go wrong there.

If you think you want a turbo then don�t settle for anything less but get a good one - it�s going to cost you more than $30k i have a 2000 996 cab it�s a great car so if you can�t afford the turbo $20k is high for a car with 85k miles unless it is really really nice motor replacement can be a red flag for me - if it is a Porsche crate Moter that might be a good thing

From what I have seen, regardless of the shape of this particular car, most cabs are in the 17k range now. Sure you will see them as high as 27 and as low as 12 but hey, ask and you shall receive. Someone who doesn't do research and has money and is under the impression these are super expansive may think its a grt deal or maybe its an impulse buy. Plus, you can always come down on the price not the other way around. The cheaper ones may have issues or someone may just want it gone fast. So many variables. In the end, as long as you are happy with the car who cares what you paid for it. But.... Get the turbo if you can!

Turbo for the win but 30k isn't going to get you a good turbo unless owner mispriced it or you get lucky. good luck. what ever you decide get an independant ppi

Good time to make my first post. I just picked up my lawyer buddy's 2002 c2 cabrio with 110k and documented service history, but only since 2009, when he purchased it with 70K miles. He got sick of paying $500+ repair and maintenance bills. and he's not mechanical at all. I ran into him at a restaurant and we had a few drinks--next thing I know I purchased the car for the non-negotiated price of $5500. I asked him why so low? He said the last shop he had it at said it needed "bushings." I was willing to take that risk. I had no PPI done, other than a somewhat lengthy test drive, and a quick visit to another buddy who restores Ferraris and Aston Martin show cars. He looked it over and said I should buy it right now, which I did. It's bone stock other than a Sony radio replacement. The car is Lapis Blue with Savannah beige interior, and a 6 speed. The car is lightly optioned--only the techic package, power seats, and the bose sound. I did get the original radio with the car, and the hardtop. On the test drive, the car tracks very straight and the suspension makes no clunks or noises. It's a little soft or floaty, so I'll go through the entire suspension in the next few months. Things done so far: oil change, LN spin on oil filter adapter (no metal on magnetic plug or filter), Delvac gearbox oil change, changed air filter and cabin air filter. Cleaned and painted the semi-rusty lug nuts. Next on the list: Motor mounts, suspension refresh, and everything else that will be coming up. As far as I can tell, the IMS is original, and the clutch is a little heavy but does not slip. For now, I'm enjoying the hell out of it. Even if the motor grenades the risk is low with the price I paid. My biggest issue thus far is that my work is slipping because I'm spending a bunch of time on this site learning about these cars. Sorry for the weak picture as it was taken on the drive home from the seller's house by my wife.

Fellow cab owner: I could suggest a lot of other possible things like engine mounts, clean radiators, etc. Plenty of others will suggest these and others. But, I will highly stress you clean the front and rear water drains. CLOGGED + RAIN = MAJOR HEADACHES = THINNING WALLET There are several good posts showing how. PM me if you need help. I do it once a year.

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Damn, nice deal. As long as when he said "bushings" he didn't really mean "cylinders."

Wow, that�s crazy low. Yeah, maybe he meant �bearings,� but even if the engine grenades, you still got a great roller!

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I agree. Just ordered 4 Meyle control (coffin) arms (amazon), shock mounts, Rein Motor mounts (FCP Euro) and a few other bits. I'll get all the suspension parts together then install all at same time. The one (of many) thing I'm still not figuring out is the front control arm (tuning fork). The original had ball type joint and it looks like TRW and Meyle made them at one time, but they are difficult to find, other than OEM. I see EPS makes one that replaces the ball with a bushing, but it seems that one would load the suspension. I've searched the site looking for reviews on the EPS but I see more folks asking about them rather than commenting on them. Anyone care to comment or list a reasonable source?