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YOUR RESEARCHStereo Headunit Upgrade on the 2002 Bose / Nav Turbo 996?
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Install alpine 967 double din
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I installed an Alpine 967 double din with no problems going through the factory Bose amps and speakers.
Stereo Headunit Upgrade on the 2002 Bose / Nav Turbo 996?
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Leading evidence: 'Install alpine 967 double din' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Install alpine 967 double din' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion
If it�s better sound quality, both the head unit and amp are worth replacing (in that both are pretty awful).
Stereo Headunit Upgrade on the 2002 Bose / Nav Turbo 996?
Replace amp as well
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Suggestion · Original poster
If you have DSP then you need to replace the Amp as well.
Stereo Headunit Upgrade on the 2002 Bose / Nav Turbo 996?
Replace amplifier really isn�t
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Suggestion
Replacing the amplifier really isn�t that bad, especially in your case - you may be able to reuse a substantial portion of the OEM wiring harness, depending on exactly which connectors you need.
Stereo Headunit Upgrade on the 2002 Bose / Nav Turbo 996?
Replace cd holder
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Suggestion
If you do that, I highly recommend replacing the CD holder with the appropriate pocket.
Stereo Headunit Upgrade on the 2002 Bose / Nav Turbo 996?
Replace amplifier really isn�t
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Suggestion
Replacing the amplifier really isn�t that bad, especially in your case - you may be able to reuse a substantial portion of the OEM wiring harness, depending on exactly which connectors you need.
Stereo Headunit Upgrade on the 2002 Bose / Nav Turbo 996?
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Hi everyone,
I'm having a hard time finding concrete information on what is needed for upgrading the stereo in my 2002 996 Turbo w/ the OEM Bose Navigation stereo system.
From my searching, it seems that in 2003, Porsche started using fiber optics for the audio so those more involved to upgrade. But in 2002 I think I can just buy a new head unit then some aftermarket connectors to install it. However I cannot find anything concrete to say what adapters I need and if the headunit can be dropped right in. And I do not want to rewire the speakers or the amp. I just want to adapt the aftermarket stereo to the OEM headunit's wiring harness then plug it in & go.
TL;DR;
- What do I need to buy in order to upgrade a 2002 Porsche Turbo w/ Nav & Bose to an aftermarket head unit only and retain the OEM speakers, amps, etc?
Thanks,
Chris
You might try Crutchfield too.
I went down this pathway with my 2002 C4S, and I originally planned to replace the head unit only. I ended up doing the whole system. The speakers are really the weakest link in terms of sound quality, and ultimately I'm happy that I decided to replace the entire system. It obviously adds a considerable amount to the price, but my car was a daily driver and it was worth the investment for me.
I'm not sure of your specific needs, but one thing to consider is that handsfree calling features are fairly useless in the 996 because of the amount of noise in the cabin. It was very nice though to have updated nav, Sirius, streaming music, etc.
I got a 2002 to avoid the fiber optic system. I installed an Alpine 967 double din with no problems going through the factory Bose amps and speakers. Unit is more than plenty loud and clear. But the 967 does have internal sound processing including crossovers.
GPS, Bluetooth, IPod, etc., work and sound great.
Thank you. I will reach out to find out if they can provide me with something that will be plug and play.
I've contacted Crutchfield however the adapters they include with the purchase of a headunit have the following caveats (direct from them when you add to cart):
- "The wiring harness does not supply connections for the front speakers, so you'll need to run new speaker wires."
- "The wiring harness does not supply connections for the rear speakers, so you'll need to run new speaker wires."
- "In this vehicle, the functions of the yellow and red wires in the wiring harness are reversed. The yellow wire supplies ignition power, and the red wire supplies constant power."
That said, I'm not really interested in rewiring the whole car. I love the way the Bose system sounds currently and I don't wish to change that. I just want more features out of the stereo and something a bit more updated looking in there.
That's great news! Did you have OEM nav in your car by chance? And do you know what wiring kit you used for the install?
Did not have the factory nav. I did buy a wiring harness, but the information out there is a little confusing. Really just need to connect the wires to the correct place so just find a diagram showing what each wire is from the stock head unit. It will complicate things if you try to add your own amps so make sure your head unit has enough power. I think my Alpine only has 45 Watts.
What are you trying to get out of the new head unit? If it�s better sound quality, both the head unit and amp are worth replacing (in that both are pretty awful). If it�s just connectivity to your phone, then just the head unit is reasonable.
Replacing the amplifier really isn�t that bad, especially in your case - you may be able to reuse a substantial portion of the OEM wiring harness, depending on exactly which connectors you need.
Regardless I recommend giving Rod at Car Audio Innovations a call; he knows this stuff up down and sideways on our cars, and he and his team are perfectly willing to help you over the phone if you buy one of their setups. I decided the extra couple hundred bucks was worth not needing to track down all the wiring diagrams and having the on-call assistance, and I couldn�t be happier with my setup. It only took 13 hours, and most of that was my inner perfectionist interfering with progress - wire management, etc.
Don�t know too much about other head units, but mine has an internal digital sound processor. Connected the factory amps to the speaker out terminals (I understand not what the purist do) Sound is loud, clear, and full with windows open on the highway.
If you replace the amps (I considered this also) you will need new speakers because I think factory speakers are 2 ohm. Components are pretty cheap compared to 20 years ago, but I don�t think another $2,000 would make any difference in sound to me.
My goals for this are really just to get a better streaming experience with android auto. I currently have an iPod adapter that came installed in the car when I purchased and I added a bluetooth dongle to it so I can stream. However it's not as ideal as I'd like and a new head unit would update the look of the interior a bit.
That's really what my goals are. I'm no audiophile so the current sound from the speakers is great for me. Plus w/ my exhaust, it's fairly loud in the cabin anyway. That's why I'm not really interested in changing things if it means I need to rip out the amp & perhaps the stock speakers too. Especially anything in the rear since that would mean monkeying around behind the rollbar which is not fun.
Small update on my contact w/ CAI & Suncoast. I called both yesterday and CAI is going to get back to me today (they wanted to double check to ensure they gave me the right info). And Suncoast said their kit (
link
) will work with no problems. I want to talk to CAI though because they seemed way more knowledgeable about the stereo than the customer service rep at suncoast did.
I think you got it right. Unless you have an ultra quite (lots of soundproofing) cabin, there will be no ultra clarity regardless of how much you spend.
If I remember correctly, the harness takes care of the majority of the wires, but not all. The harness is just to keep things clean, but not necessary. Use the diagrams for the stock unit to connect the wires to the new unit. I think I may have added the extra wires to the one wiring harness.
Instead of buying the available mounting kits, I bought a 1/4 inch piece of smoked plexi and sent it to a place in California who laser cut it to fit my display. Mounted the plexi with rivets to the cage IIRC, for less than $100. This way you can vertically place the display where you want it.
The reason I mentioned the unit I got is because I could see the sound sucking if there is not enough power, or the right power. I think the whole "power" spec thing is a bunch of sales BS and not good for "apples to apples," especially for head units. Good luck.
Thanks! The guys at CAI got held up so they didn't get back to me yet but hopefully I can get an answer from them next week so I can get a new head unit ordered.
Talked to CAI and got the info on my upgrade needs. Great guys btw... very helpful.
So w/ the 2002 year, it is prior to the MOST fiber optics as some threads suggest even w/ the Bose setup. However this is one other step to look for if you have Nav... so if you have Nav then you need to check if you have DSP (should be an option in the audio settings where bass & treble are located). If you have DSP then you need to replace the Amp as well.
So w/ my car in particular, I don't appear to have the DSP option so it looks like I can just do a headunit swap. Rod @ CAI said that if I do end up deciding later that I want to upgrade the amp, they sell a kit (
https://cai-store.com/collections/99...-amplifier-kit
) that will really improve the sound. So I think I'm just going to try out a new head unit first then maybe consider upgrading that later if I want better sound but I don't really want that right now.
Wanted to make sure I shared my experience on the thread in case others are searching for this later.
There's another plastic bit that lets you install the AC controls in the lowest bin. If you do that, I highly recommend replacing the CD holder with the appropriate pocket.
I bought the kit to move the AC to the bottom of the stack, but never used it. I put the shelf at the bottom and the AC above it.
I had to cut the face plate to make the AC fit. Been a while, but I cut along the structure lines on the back of the plate to make it fit. Also need to cut the shelf. If you take your time and measure, you should be ok.
There are examples on the web with the AC on top of the bottom stack, but most just stuff the AC in. I didn't like how the AC controls sat too high, so I cut the face plate to lower it where it should be.