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THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCH4440 Steering angle sensor fault
Leading reported evidence
Use ) and give it
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
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0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
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Read evidence and context
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
They even offered to let me get the part (new or used) and give it to them to install (1.5 - 2hrs labor @ $140/hr)...
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Suggestion
And the way to correct that is again to use the tie rods to adjust the steering wheel back to straight ahead, not remove the steering wheel and move it on the spline shaft.
Leading evidence: 'Use ) and give it' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'shop probably did the calibration correctly' (1 discussions; 0 report identifying it and 1 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Adjust steering wheel back' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
Source reports, not a diagnosis or a success probability. Counts refer to discussions and can overlap.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
Every used car I have ever bought has failed this test, sometimes quite spectacularly, like by 1/2 turn of the wheel.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I've only used PIWIS for this and it does show it.
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Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I though the clock spring was only used for power to the turn signals & horn.
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Suggestion
And the way to correct that is again to use the tie rods to adjust the steering wheel back to straight ahead, not remove the steering wheel and move it on the spline shaft.
These are separate views of the same evidence. Frequency alone does not establish a fix, and these counts must not be added together.
Adjust steering wheel back
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Discussions that contain suggestions
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Suggestion
And the way to correct that is again to use the tie rods to adjust the steering wheel back to straight ahead, not remove the steering wheel and move it on the spline shaft.
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Suggestion
You might actually need some help with this such as a shop or dealer that can read the steering wheel angle with PIWIS, starting at neutral and performing a calibration through a complete cycle, then removing the steering wheel, putting the steering angle sensor at 0, and remounting the steering wheel, then centering the steering wheel the correct way by adjusting the tie rods.
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Suggestion · Original poster
Unfortunately, last year when I got back home, I had forgotten about the thread/discussion and never did the �full lock test� - I�ve just gotten used to the lights coming on (they don�t seem to affect how the car drives/performs).
These are separate views of the same evidence. Frequency alone does not establish a fix, and these counts must not be added together.
shop probably did the calibration correctly
No successful repair reported for this finding.
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Identified cause
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Suspected cause
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Suspected cause · Original poster
I suspect the shop probably did the calibration correctly, but it doesn't take...Now, the big question is whether it's the clock-spring or the steering angle sensor (which is what I have the code for).
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
22 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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Generation: 20261026T213932Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
So after getting an alignment done a few weeks ago, my PSM acts up unless I shut it off. With the PSM off the drives fine. I tried several times to re-calibrate the steering angle sensor with Durametric, to no avail. I brought it back to the shop that did the alignment (the alignment is fine btw and the car drives great) and they're saying it's the clock-spring (that they did the re-calibration several times, but it won't take due to a bad clock spring...) Has anyone experienced this? I thought clock-spring problems usually give you an airbag light? I can get a used clock-spring for $50 - $100 and a new one for $250, so it's not a bank breaker by any means, but I'd rather not change it if it's not really the problem... I suppose I could get a used one cheap and give it a shot...
I personally don't think that's the culprit.
I though the clock spring was only used for power to the turn signals & horn.
Has anyone removed the turn signals for racing and had PSM issues?
Did you turn steering wheel 20 degrees left and right during calibration?
The steering angle can be seen in "actual values" in the tester. Should be 0 degrees with steering wheel straight ahead then follow steering smoothly on left and right angle maneuvers.
During calibration, start with steering wheel straight ahead , click the start button, then steer at least 20 degrees left and right to calibrate within allotted time.
Actually the airbag has it's own connection if I recall correctly.
It might connect to the clock spring, but I thought 2 wires came from the back of the dash and ran past the clock spring to the steering wheel.
Or did it connect to the clock spring and then another went to the steering wheel?
Now you have me second guessing.
It's been a few months so I don't remember.
Time to break out the old steering wheel and clock spring(s).
^^^This is interesting... I don't think I've seen anything in "Actual Values". All I see when I do the calibration routine is "data being sent" (or something similar). So, don't "actual values" only work with the car running? Do I have to start the car to do this? I "think" I turned the wheel approximately 20 degrees in each direction before returning it to center (The Porsche shop manual mentions using some sort of gauge). I just used the "if 90 degrees is 3 o'clock, 45 would be around 1:30 and 20 degrees would be a little less than 1:00 technique"... I have no idea if this method is precise enough. It would be great if I could see the actaul angle in "actual values"... If I recall, I don't think there is an actual values in the ABS 5.7 module, but I'm going to look now....
I've only used PIWIS for this and it does show it.
Also the 20 degrees is actual wheel/tire angle ( not steering wheel ), you're probably not steering left and right far enough to calibrate.
Print this out:
Park your car with your wheels straight ahead.
Using a yard/meter stick draw a straight line(using chalk or sharpie) alongside the tire.
Lay the protractor along side the line just below the hub and using the yard/meter stick draw a line from under the hub out 20deg.
Do this for both tires.
When the tire is perpendicular to the line, you've turned it 20deg.
I recommend using chalk, as it is impossible to park in the same location the next time you need the marks.
^^^ This is awesome - Thanks Tex!!! Should be easy enough. Also helpful to know that it's actually tire angle as opposed to "steering wheel" angle - Thanks PT3. I'll give this a shot tomorrow and report back
So, I just did the calibration routine again - this time with the protractors lined up next to the front wheels. Yeah, the wheel angle of 20 degrees is WAY more than measuring the steering wheel! I was hopeful that this was going to do the trick, but once again as soon as I hit 32 mph the PSM kicked in...
Ugh... I suspect the shop probably did the calibration correctly, but it doesn't take...Now, the big question is whether it's the clock-spring or the steering angle sensor (which is what I have the code for). The shop did take my steering wheel off to straighten it, so it's possible they damaged (or at least think they might have damaged) the clock-spring in the process - and this is why they're confident in their diagnosis. They even offered to let me get the part (new or used) and give it to them to install (1.5 - 2hrs labor @ $140/hr)... Decisions... decisions... I think if I get a used clock-spring, I'll just install it my self and save the trip (they're about 50 mi. away) and the $...
I don't understand. The clockspring has nothing to do with the steering angle sensor. The steering angle sensor is mounted way down the bottom of the steering column almost at the firewall.
The problem might be "they took the steering wheel off to straighten it". During alignment, the steering wheel should be locked in the straight forward position, and then the tie rods are used to align the wheels to the straight ahead position of the steering wheel with the correct amount of toe. Or, if the steering wheel is not locked in the straight ahead position, it can get off centered. And the way to correct that is again to use the tie rods to adjust the steering wheel back to straight ahead, not remove the steering wheel and move it on the spline shaft. I sure hope they indexed the steering wheel nut and spline shaft before they moved it. Who did your alignment?
I think they did it wrong.
You might actually need some help with this such as a shop or dealer that can read the steering wheel angle with PIWIS, starting at neutral and performing a calibration through a complete cycle, then removing the steering wheel, putting the steering angle sensor at 0, and remounting the steering wheel, then centering the steering wheel the correct way by adjusting the tie rods.
Ok, I thought they may have re-positioned the steering wheel 'after' the alignment, this what threw off the steering angle sensor.
Try the calibration again, don't worry about being 'precise' with the 20 degrees,
just be sure you have 'exceeded' it by a good amount
. Do be precise about the straight ahead start position though.
Removing the steering wheel after alignment and repositioning is what started the issue. The clock spring should lock in position when wheel removed so it doesn't spin around 360 or 720 and could have been broken. Actual values would really help here, if just 5-10 degrees off re-calibrating will correct it.
Ok, I'm going to try the calibration again. turning the wheels a little further this time. Yeah, I agree that the shop "cheaped out on the alignment" because they didn't want to take the time to do it right (via the tie rod ends (they claimed one of the ends was on wrong so it didn't adjust properly - ie: left/right threads - but they put them on so the F.U. is theirs) as they had given me a set price. Ugh.... Fortunately the alignment is good, but the steering angle problem isn't...
Hmmmm I tried the recalibration again turning the wheels almost to full lock (not much more than the 20 degrees that's spec'd) then back to straight again. No luck - once I hit about 35mph in a straight line the PSM starts to kick in. If I accelerate through a turn it'll kick in at much lower speeds...
I think you're going to have someone with PIWIS check what the angle actually is and do the recalibration.
Your other option is to have the alignment shop undo what they did (which is wrong anyway) and align the toe properly.
Here's a test. Mark the top center of the steering wheel. Turn it full lock left and right. Does it turn equally in both directions? It should. If it does not then the steering rack isn't centered with the wheels straight ahead. The wheels can be aligned in this condition, but it messes up bump steer because the inner tie rod joints aren't equidistant from the car's center line.
Every used car I have ever bought has failed this test, sometimes quite spectacularly, like by 1/2 turn of the wheel.
Wow� Sorry I�m replying 2 years late to your post - not sure how I missed it. In any case, saw it now and this thread has been brought up in another. I�m still �living with� my ABS & PSM coming on after 6 mi. Or so of driving. I won�t be able to carry out this �turn to full lock� test til I get home at the end of March, but will definitely do so then. I�m pretty sure your hunch will pan out to be true� I will post the results then (putting it in my calendar now!).
Hi guys just reading your thread and hope you may be able to give me a bit of advice.
I have a 1999 Porsche 996 C4. I�ve just serviced the steering rack and was very careful not to rotate the steering wheel 360 degrees (but no guarantees) when putting the rack back in. Now I have a steering sensor fault and an airbag fault.
Reading the manual it sounds like I couldn�t have damaged the steering angle sensor if I did put the steering out 360 deg, it just needs calibrating.
However I might have damaged the airbag control unit (squib). I can check this by doing a resistance check on the airbag connector (should be 1.1 ohm).
Can someone tell me if my assumptions are correct or am I talking complete ��.
Hmmm, I�m just finding this thread again. Unfortunately, last year when I got back home, I had forgotten about the thread/discussion and never did the �full lock test� - I�ve just gotten used to the lights coming on (they don�t seem to affect how the car drives/performs). I�ll be back in NY at the end of March and will try to remember this year�
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