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YOUR RESEARCHDIY 330mm to 350mm rotor upgrade install
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Install because it will be tracked quite a bit
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
This car has slotted installed because it will be tracked quite a bit.
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Suggestion · Original poster
You would do this the same you would any other time by removing old pads, installing new pads, and then bleeding brakes until you have new clean fluid with no air coming out of the calipers.
Leading evidence: 'Install because it will be tracked quite a bit' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Clean fluid' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion · Original poster
You would do this the same you would any other time by removing old pads, installing new pads, and then bleeding brakes until you have new clean fluid with no air coming out of the calipers.
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Suggestion · Original poster
For track use, drilled rotors are much more likely to crack and fail as well as do not keep a clean fresh pad surface like slotted rotors do.
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Suggestion · Original poster
Use a wire brush (or screw gun/ die grinder with wire brush) to clean the hub surface until all rust is removed.
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Suggestion · Original poster
Many people replace these screw when changing rotor and is recommended but not mandatory.
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Clean fluid
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Suggestion · Original poster
You would do this the same you would any other time by removing old pads, installing new pads, and then bleeding brakes until you have new clean fluid with no air coming out of the calipers.
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The 330mm to 350mm stock caliper big brake kits are becoming more and more popular. This is a basic walk through on the process of removing your old stock 330mm rotors and upgrading and installing your new 350mm rotors along with bolt and spacer kit. These kits are available from a few suppliers and is an upgrade i highly recommend to anyone with a 996 turbo, 996 c4s, 997 c2s, or 997 c4s.
Tools:
Jack or lift
Sock to remove wheels (some guys have special lugs sockets)
10mm allen socks
10mm standard socket
torque wrench
flat screwdriver
phillips screwdriver
wire brush
added tools that help:
impact screw gun
screw gun or die grinder with wire brush
Step 1:
Jack up car and remove wheel
step 2 Front:
Use a flat head screwdriver to pry the ABS wire grommet out of bracket. Then remove the bolt and nut holding the ABS/pad sensor wires and brake line to the upright.
Step 2 Rear:
Use flat head screwdriver to remove ABS wire from bracket on the caliper
Step 3:
Use your 10mm allen socket and driver to remove the 2 bolts mounting the caliper to the upright. after removing boots, safely set the calipers behind the rotor in the suspension. Use a zip tie or wood blocks to support the caliper so the metal brake hard lines do not get bent or damaged.
Step 4:
Using a phillips screwdriver (impact screw gun is very helpful to use if you have one) remove the 2 screws holding the rotor to the hub. after screws are removed, take rotor off and set aside.
Step 5:
Now that you have removed the rotor, it is very important to clean any rust off the hub so the new rotor sits flat on the hub. Use a wire brush (or screw gun/ die grinder with wire brush) to clean the hub surface until all rust is removed.
Step 6:
Unbox your new 350mm rotors. Clean them with brake cleaner and remove any oil or grease on them.
Step 7 (rear only):
Test fit rotor on hub. It may not fit due to the ebrake shoes contacting the rotor. If this is an issue, use a flat head screw driver to turn down the start screw on the brake shoe adjuster. Turn it a few turns at a time and test fit rotor until it slides over the ebrake shoes.
Step 8:
Install rotors. Use the 2 phillips head screw to mount rotor to hub. Very important to screw these in by hand and not use a screw gun do the heads do not become stripped out. Many people replace these screw when changing rotor and is recommended but not mandatory.
Step 9:
Install your calipers with new longer bolts and spacers. you may need to use a C clamp to push the pistons and pads back in all the way to spread wide enough to fit over the new rotor.
Whether you're using plate style or washer style spacers, install the top bolt first. Slide bolt through the caliper and slide spacer up and use bolt to hold in place. Then line up with mounting hole and finger start the bolt. Now install the bottom bolt into calipers. Slide spacer into place and start bolt with your fingers.
Now tighten the bolts as much as possible with your fingers. After they are finger tight, use your 10mm allen head socket and driver to tighten the bolts to a light snuggle. Its a good idea to do this buy tightening each bolt a little at a time.
After bolts are snug, you need to mount your 10mm allen socket on to your torque wrench. OEM torque spec for the caliper bolts is 63ft/lb. personally i torque them to 70ft/lb but 63ft/lb is the proper OEM spec
Step 10 front:
You will not want to reinstall the brake line/ABS wire bracket. Finger start the bolt to the upright. Now slide the sensor mount back over stud, finger start nut. With your 10mm socket and driver, tighten the bolt and nut back up. Then slide the abs wire grommet back into the bracket.
Step 10 rear:
Slide the ABS wire grommet back into bracket mount on caliper.
Step 11:
Reinstall wheel, lower jack and torque lug nuts to spec.
Step 12:
Repeat on other 3 corners
Step 13
Start car. Press the brake pedal a few time until you have good pedal pressure back. Now take the car for a drive and go through a brake pad bedding process. You need to bed the pads to the new rotors and remove and coating on the rotors left
Notes:
During this install, it is also a good time to change pads and fluid. You would do this the same you would any other time by removing old pads, installing new pads, and then bleeding brakes until you have new clean fluid with no air coming out of the calipers.
Edit:
Pictures wont upload through computer for some reason. Posting then add them with my phone.
Thanks for posting! Super easy upgrade, didn't even think how easy it would be....I have to say I love the look of drilled rotors....but slotted rotors not so much. Just an opinion.
It would be helpful if you'd list the part numbers for the rotors for anybody looking to piece this kit together, and for replacement orders down the road.
you can get drilled rotors as well. This car has slotted installed because it will be tracked quite a bit. For track use, drilled rotors are much more likely to crack and fail as well as do not keep a clean fresh pad surface like slotted rotors do. For a street car and occasional weekend track use, drilled does work fine.
I'm going to ask a very stupid question. What advantage is gained by just upsizing the rotor another 20 mm and moving the existing calipers out by the same amount? It is the same surface area of the brake pads as before. So there is no increase in brake pad performance. And now you have a larger and I assume heavier rotor, so more unsprung weight on each corner.
The argument would be that the pad now has a larger lever arm (radius) to work on, so more torque can be applied to slow the car. Also conceivably the greater mass will be able to accept more heat and prevent fade. If you're happy with your braking power (i.e. can easily lock the wheels or engage ABS, and you never experience fade), then I don't think there's a huge advantage. If you feel like your car struggles to stop, this could be a good upgrade.
The increase in rotor size does a few thing. First it increases the leverage the caliper/pads have on the rotor which increases overall braking power. That increased can be maxed though by limits in the friction of the pads and grip of your tires.
Second, the larger rotor both increases thermal mass for heat absorption and dissipation. This greatly reduces brake fade on track because of the increase in cooling.
Third, because the increase in leverage, it greatly decreases pedal travel to produce the same amount the braking as the standard 330 rotor. This gives you better pedal feel as well as a huge increase in braking confidence.
IMO this is a good upgrade for everyone, especially if you need to change replace rotors anyway. This fits under the stock 18 inch wheels as well.
because the rotor size is different and there is no production rotors that will fit that i can find, best solution for us is the girodisc but its not as cheap
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