Pictures after H&R Install...

Very happy with the H&R spring swap! A few pictures from todays ride...

The improvement in performance is superb, but I'll admit my original motivation was to get rid of the hideous tire/fender gaps with OEM setup... Mission Accomplished! (OEM ride height)

Looks great - exactly what I'd like to do. What is the ride quality like? And exactly which H&R springs did you use?

I went from a very well set up 911 SC to the 996, and while I really am enjoying the 996, I was previously never happy with the OEM suspension setup and ride height. I considered going with an X74 setup (no longer available unless piece-mealed together, $$$) or full coil-overs (PSS9's no longer available, PSS10's $2,500+, , but decided to try just an H&R spring swap first. Extremely happy... Even on the track the OEM shocks (which were in great shape) seem to handle new spring rates perfectly, and while corner balance capability and adjustable shock rates can be a tremendous advantage, few non-racers (including me) ever take the time to dial them in anyway or even change the adjustments after initial setup. In the end, I decided to invest $300 instead of $3,000-$5,000, and I'm thrilled with the result. The floaty feeling is gone, much less acceleration squat, and most importantly I can throttle steer through corners with much more confidence. Highway/city ride quality is fine, but it's when you start to push the car that the mod will generate the most smiles... H&R Sport Springs, part #29513. About $300 shipped, a few hours for me to self-install. Comparison of the rear spring

Looks great. Not too stiff?

Nice!

I put them on mine a few years ago and they have been great. seats the car much better too.

You sold me! Thanks! I moved a brand new set in a box in my garage to another area less than an hour ago. I'm tired after a long day and as I bent over to pick up the box, I let out a little moan. My wife asked what was in the box that had been there for nearly a couple of years? I said, "springs to lower my Turbo". She replied, "put the box in your trunk, it will lower your car". I thought it was pretty funny. Anyway, thanks for your assessment. I guess I should put them on. ( or at least in the trunk)

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Nice improvement over stock.

On a scale of 1 to 10, what is the install difficulty?

pfbz - thanks! My 996 will not see much track duty but I would like to see the ride height lowered a bit and a little more firmness would also be appreciated. This looks like the perfect way to go.

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No more than a 5/10, but I guess it depends on your previous experience... adg44's thread provided some helpful tips as did Wayne Dempsey article on the Pelican board. Here's a brief outline of the job... See the above referenced articles or the service manual for details. Install H&R Springs: Gather up the proper tools. Remove front trunk panels to access top of struts. Remove rear seat panel to access top of struts. Break wheel lug nuts loose. Get the car on jackstands. Protect fenders. Remove the wheels. Detach front calipers. [Remove front struts, swap springs, reinstall] [Remove rear struts, swap springs, reinstall] Attach front calipers (85Nm) Install wheels. Get the car off jackstands. Torque wheel nuts (130Nm) Pump brakes. Reinstall front trunk and rear seat access panels. Put everything away, clean up. Have car aligned, as things have definitely changed. The sharpie marks should at least leave things left/right symmetrical until you can get an alignment done. If your comfortable doing all of the above except the tasks in orange, the additional work is pretty easy. For me, it's the above that is a bit tedious. Spring swap brief outline. This is for a 2004 C2 Coupe. Cab's and C4's might have slightly different steps... Also, verify torque specs for yourself. Remove Front Struts & Swap Springs: Mark top strut bolt positions with sharpie. Compress front strut assembly with floor jack, put on some super heavy duty zip-ties on front springs to keep them somewhat compressed*. Loosen top strut nut with air impact wrench*. Remove lower sway bar/shock retaining bolt. Remove three upper spring strut mount bolts. Pull strut assembly out of wheel well (a bit tricky, but not too bad)*. Remove top strut nut completely (beware, slight spring pressure). Remove old spring, install new spring. No compressor needed. Install and torque top strut nut (80Nm). Put strut assembly back in wheel well. Loosely thread upper mount bolts, align with sharpie marks. Install and torque lower sway bar/strut bolt (a bit tricky, use a pry bar, 85Nm)* Confirm/align with sharpie marks, torque top mount bolts (37Nm) * These steps have a few different ways of getting the job done... I did it with no assistance, no spring compressor, no special 'shock nut' tool. Pelican suggests loosening a pivot bolt to allow the suspension to droop a bit more, others suggest using spring compressors or having a second person to step on the wheel carrier to compress while you remove the strut. These additional techniques would probably make steps 6 and 12 a bit easier, but I managed without too much difficulty. Also, an air or electric impact wrench makes removing the top strut nut a non-issue... If you don't have one, make sure you loosen it before removing the strut from the car and/or get the special strut nut holding tool. Remove Rear Struts & Swap Springs: Loosen top strut nut with air impact wrench*. Remove sway bar end links Remove lower sway bar/shock retaining bolt. Remove lower strut mount bolt (might need to drive bolt out with drift). Remove three upper spring strut mount bolts. Pull strut assembly out of wheel well. Remove top strut nut completely (beware, slight spring pressure). Remove old spring, install new spring. Install and torque top strut nut (58Nm). Put strut assembly back in wheel well. Loosely thread upper mount bolts. Install and torque lower strut bolt (a bit tricky, use a pry bar, 100Nm)* Install and torque lower sway bar links (both sides detached until both sides done, 46Nm) Torque top mount bolts (46Nm)

...diagrams of the front and rear struts.

I'd love to do something like that on my C4S, but I already scrape the ground going into driveways, parking lots, etc. I'm a little worried that this would make my car too low for a daily driver...

Hey Dennis, me too on my '03 C4S. Looks like a little more work but 'doable'. Like taking out the Bose bass box from the rear and disconnecting the front drive shaft. pfbz....did your rear camber come into specs? I run 20" rims (yeah, 'dubs') and am concerned about the rear.

Looks great! Mark/Pelican Parts

Some closer crops on before and after shots... No changes other than the H&R springs. Rear Before: Rear After: Front Before: Front After:

Looks great, can't wait to get my shocks ordered up and lower mine

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After switching to the H&R springs about 18 mos ago I do tend to drive it a BIT less frequently around town. But the only clearance problem is driveways -- you need to keep your eyes open and make a diagonal approach when possible. However ... those are minor inconveniences (to me) in the context of how much better the car corners (esp on the track). Body roll is imperceptible. It's also more stable in a straight line over 100mph (on the track). I think it's a great performance upgrade and makes the car look better too. Especially true with C4Ses like ours which were lower/wider to begin with. It's a pretty badass look IMO.

I lowered my Mini with H&Rs and it looked great, but it reduced the suspension travel to about 1/2". After that it would bottom out on the rubber bumpers and beat me to death. I'd love to lower my 996 but my previous experience has always stopped me. Have you noticed a similar outcome with yours? Any "bottoming out" on rough roads or roadway expansion strips?

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I think it looks great and the handling improvements would be welcomed with open arms! My C4S is going to see less daily driver duty when we get my wife's new car this spring. Her Cayenne will become my daily driver/dog hauler/airport beater. Maybe this will be a good enough reason to modify the suspension on the C4S.

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This is pretty scary. Considering that a compressed coil spring has enough energy to embed itself in you (yes it does happen), I personally don't trust zip ties. Not saying that it won't work, and maybe the 996 springs don't need to be compressed that much, but yikes. Most auto parts stores will rent a spring compressor to you for free, it sure removes a lot of the risk. The car looks great BTW.

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I haven't bottomed it out once since getting the H&R springs. Clearance is the only issue per my previous post, and it's pretty manageable if you stay vigilant.

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Agree, coil springs are nothing to be screwed about with, but in this case, you are only shortening them slightly with little force/energy.

Car looks great -- love the color and wheels. Sounds like a good mod for the money; near the top on the "best mods for $500 or less" list. Any concerns about premature wear on the struts as has been raised in other posts? Enjoy --

Has the car gotten any lower over the past 6 months as the springs settle? Keith

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None that I've noticed over 18 months.

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I haven't experienced any noticeable strut wear, and I track it several days per year in addition to driving the mountain roads every weekend for the past 18 mos.

Necro-bump, because I'm getting ready to do it again! Digging my new (to me) Turbo, but again am reminded of the silly US ride height on 996's. Hmmm, $300 for H&R's, or $3,000 for Ohlins coil-overs. Honestly, I was pretty happy with the H&R's on my previous 04 C2S, makes the decision easy!

I did the same H&R Sport Springs a few months ago and love them. A really nice ride height and added a nice feel to the drive. I have never been able to justify coilivers with the difference in price.

I recently bought the Bilstein B8's and H&R's Sport Springs and Adj. Rear Sway Bar, I plan on installing as soon as I get back from Vacation in a couple of weeks. I'm going to print out your list as a check list to work through. Thanks, Mike

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I would think that on a C2 it's very straight forward. I did my C4 last spring, and it's obviously a little more involved due to the front drive train (the axles make getting the front springs off considerably more difficult). Aside from potentially frozen/oxidized bolts and nuts, it's a simple disassemble and reassemble with the new parts - no further modifications necessary. Overall # = 5-7

looks really good pf, nice work. Your car looks like mine, are the rims refinished? Thanks, Ralph

Looks excellent!

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Not sure which car you are referring... Two of them are mine. 2004 C2 in Polar Silver that I had when I first created this thread back four years ago, on 997 generation Carrera S wheels. 2001 Turbo in Arctic Silver I just picked up a week ago, original Turbo wheels powder coated gloss black. Pictures below... First is the '04 C2 after H&R's, second is the '01 Turbo that definitely needs a bit of altitude adjustment!

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After I went to Eibach sport springs and Koni shocks the car actually rode a bit better. The old (original) parts were so worn out it that the technically much stiffer suspension did not feel that way. If you have a 996 with over 75K at this point you should have replaced the motor mounts and the shocks. The difference will amaze you.

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I just put the H&Rs coilovers on my turbo and set it to X73 height. Not a great pic, but you get the point: