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THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHInserting Transmission Mount Mk1
Leading reported evidence
Use 3/8 inch bolts
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
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Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I used 3/8 inch bolts that were 8 inches long to draw it through.
Leading evidence: 'Use 3/8 inch bolts' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Set backing plates correct' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion
If I set the backing plates correct, it will butt up against the flats of the bolts so they won't rotate while the nuts are being driven in.
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Suggestion · Original poster
1) use grade 8 bolts and nuts 2) use the thickest plate you can for the backing, 3) make sure you create a backing plate that also has spacers to allow the mount to pull all the way in without bottoming out.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
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Suggestion · Original poster
I tried to pull it through using a rigged setup that should have worked but I didn't feel comfortable as it was pulling on the rubber center and not on the metal sleeve.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
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Suggestion
I did make a rig using a similar concept as the AGA tool, but I worry that it won't work.
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Suggestion · Original poster
1) use grade 8 bolts and nuts 2) use the thickest plate you can for the backing, 3) make sure you create a backing plate that also has spacers to allow the mount to pull all the way in without bottoming out.
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion · Original poster
I tried to pull it through using a rigged setup that should have worked but I didn't feel comfortable as it was pulling on the rubber center and not on the metal sleeve.
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion · Original poster
1) use grade 8 bolts and nuts 2) use the thickest plate you can for the backing, 3) make sure you create a backing plate that also has spacers to allow the mount to pull all the way in without bottoming out.
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
19 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
0 evidence records excluded for query context · 0 excluded by outcome qualification · 0 adjusted by outcome qualification.
1 acknowledgements have no verified action link; they do not establish a repair result.
installing this mount without custom or specialty tools is not seeming possible. I tried to pull it through using a rigged setup that should have worked but I didn't feel comfortable as it was pulling on the rubber center and not on the metal sleeve. I really wanted to mate this to the trans and install this weekend but it's not looking good.
I called a lot of trans shops and a few machine shops today and no-one wants to touch it....has anyone here installed it at home without a tool or press?
I am working on building tool 2.0 tomorrow.
I do not have first hand knowledge of this job, but if I were going to do it I would probably buy this:
http://www.function-first.com/produc...s-mount-insert
But it sounds like you have already pulled the old and are putting in a new OEM mount, so the function first insert is no longer an option. If your new mount has a metal outer ring you could try freezing it overnight before insertion and hope it shrinks just enough to make it possible without a press. Wondering if a really big C-clamp would work as a portable press?
If that doesn't work, the tranny will probably need to come out and you'll need to take it somewhere that has a large press.
I'm sure there's someone on this forum who has done this job first hand who can give some pointers.
Good luck.
A wheel bearing kit should do the job. Put the bushing in the freezer overnight and grease the inner surface of the area the bushing is being pressed into.
I'm assuming you checked out the Pelican thread and cut around the old one etc?
Here it is for reference:
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...ion_Mounts.htm
Time to get the new one in the Freezer.
I have the old one removed, that is not the problem. I followed pelican's article although my issue is I do not own a press and no local shops will install it due to the risk to reward ratio... Their instructions require a press..
I am having to build my own rig as I am out of options. I built a tool that I feel was putting undue stress on the center rubber so I am working on my new tool now and should be able to try it tomorrow.
I was going to make an insert tool this spring. Hopefully, you will be open to renting once you get it built. And yes, the pressure must be applied to the outer metal hub of the new mount, not the inner two-bolt hole hub.
I was thinking of a billet slug with two holes in it and a couple of long bolts and nuts to draw the mount into the housing. I have a lathe, and with a couple hours, should be able to fab it up.
^^This is an excellent video^^ - The tool while very nicely done is a little pricey at $300.00. Obviously if you're a professional, it pays for itself with the first bushing replacement - not a bad price at all (and you get get to write off the price of the tool). For the DIY'er I think you could fashion something based on this fairly easily - perhaps even modifying a readily available bearing press.
Yes, but without the cylinder mandrel. I was going to just use common sense and have the installer watch what the hell they are doing on guiding it in straight. However the mandrel guide is a good idea.
Keep us informed on your success. I've also been asking around if anyone has a trans out on a bench so I could make the tool on the bench before working under the car. Usually tool making requires several versions and mods to get it useable as you've discovered. So far, no one has a trans out that I could work with. Oh well, I'm not in a rush. Hope your's comes to fruition and again - you are willing to rent it out for a small fee later!
Man... I got it in there with a version of the tool I made for $10. It took about two hours for no good reason. But it is in and ready to go. I mated the trans to the engine I will post some pictures of my tool tomorrow.
The tool worked well until the last 1/4 inch when the rubber portion of the mount bottomed out against the backing plate on the other side. I used 3/8 inch bolts that were 8 inches long to draw it through. For anyone considering making this type of tool I have a few tips. 1) use grade 8 bolts and nuts 2) use the thickest plate you can for the backing, 3) make sure you create a backing plate that also has spacers to allow the mount to pull all the way in without bottoming out.
this could be done while the trans is in the car, and can be built for around $10-$15
Looks good. Those standoffs should allow for a full pull to center the mount transversely. I can heat that piece up, flatten it, then weld a 1/4" steel backing plates perpendicular to the plate so it doesn't deform. If I set the backing plates correct, it will butt up against the flats of the bolts so they won't rotate while the nuts are being driven in. Let me know if you want me to mod it for you.
RRTEC, I'm happy to hear you got yours in! I'm in the same boat now...refusing to buy the AGA tool and hope to find a way to get it in. I got the old one out, so that's not the issue. I did make a rig using a similar concept as the AGA tool, but I worry that it won't work. Do you have any photos of the tool you used? Any other advice? did you heat up the transmission or would that not help?
Thank you!
The only photo I have is posted above. I put the bushing in the freezer for about 36 hours. I didn't like the idea of heating the trans.. if you designed and made anything similar to the AGA tool it should work like a charm. Mine was ghetto and still got it in!
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