Tensioner under A/C compressor - remove for IMS bearing replacement?

Hi everyone, looking to confirm some information. I have read the instructions, seen various posts, and picked through the good and the bad bits of information. I am about to do the IMS Solution on my 2004 AE. I had come across posts stating it is not necessary to remove the tensioner under the A/C compressor; and just to lock one cam on driver�s side. While the single cam lock appears to be acceptable, I am curious if it is really true about the one tensioner left in place? While it is tempting to leave that BS all in place and save the hassle of the third bolt; I just assume do everything as mentioned. Curious from those with experience and that have been through this. Thank you! Chris

I wouldn't tell you to leave that one in place. You might not get lucky like I did on my 2003 C2, by pinning the crank, locking the cams and just plucking out the two easy ones while changing the IMS.

My guess is you'll likely be fine w/o touching the bank 2 tensioner (which is a lot of work to get to). If you look at the diagram below, you can see the bank 2 tensioner can't affect the flywheel end much. You can always remove it if you run into issues despite locking the bank 1 cam and the crank at TDC.

I installed my IMS Solution without removing the tensioner under the AC compressor. I know of other people that have done it as well. It doesn't need to be removed. Just lock the cam on the drivers side and remove the two lower tensioners.

Guys...THANKS. I really appreciate the feedback. If I get lucky like you FPB I would be super happy, Charlie - nice that worked out for you, and Ahsai that picture definitely shows what you mean. Anything to help avoid that A/C compressor is tempting...just don't want to be cutting corners for doing the job correctly. Maybe pinning the bank two cam(s) would also be an idea? Chris

Locking bank 2 is good to have but unfortunately it needs a fabricated cam lock tool (the normal ones available won't work).

Ahsai, isn't that tool included with the 'regular' IMSS install kit from LN? I was under the impression it was the double slot style that essentially plugs into both cams at the front/flywheel side. Chris

No, there's only one version of the lock down tool available in the market (AFAIK), which can be used to lock bank 1 OR bank 2 but NOT simultaneously. So if you buy two identical ones, you will find that once you lock one side, the other side will not take the other tool due to the phase offset between the two banks.

Ah ok. The tool in the LN kit is only locking one cam also...not the exhaust and intake correct?

The tool locks both the intake cam and exhuast cam on the same bank.

Ok...and that's the one I need correct? I thought there was a tool to lock only one cam but the tool to lock both cams seems more appropriate. Chris

Both cam lock tools came in the kit I bought. LN part # 106.08.13 http://lnengineering.com/products/im...-retrofit.html If you're doing the Solution, you also need the supplemental tool kit #106.08.21 http://lnengineering.com/products/im...-tool-kit.html * All this being said - I think you can only lock one side at a time per Ahsai...

OK, got it. The double blade style for locking both cams is what I assumed was correct...and the single was optional as the directions stated. The fun should be starting soon...have a tons of parts already but have a ton more to order...really happy to be part of the club here. These cars are really special. Chris

This is an invaluable video - Vimeo Note: they lock only the lower shaft, on the right bank (facing flywheel) using the single blade locking tool. This is how I did it as well with no issues. The trick is to make sure you are TDC. Without a whistle tool, or borescope, the only way to be sure is to look at the end of the cam shaft. Its hard to get your head in there to see it, but the groove is off center. I was able to get the locking tool in place with it backwards, but it didn't feel right. Luckily that prompted me to do a bit of research and discover this. Rotated the engine another full turn and all was right and it slipped right in. Good luck with the project - if you run into trouble, there are quite a few people here that have now done it, so don't be afraid to ask for advice/help. Best advice: take your time! Cheers Charlie

Charlie, thanks for that video and the information. I am getting way more comfortable with the procedure now and the steps you all have taken. I have a bore scope and doing the Fister mode and tune up so I will have lots of items out of the way which may help with some other projects going on at the same time. Chris

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Your's a 3.6 3-chain so you should use the double blade tool. The single blade is for the 3.4 5-chain engine where only the exhaust cam has a slot to fit the tool hence single blade. Note the video above is a 3.4 5-chain engine.

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This is news to me. I have a 3.6 as well and performed the procedure with the single blade lock on the lower cam like in the video.

I have both the single and double lock tool so I will use the double. Just try to keep things as still as possible. I assume by that video and being a 5-chain engine that pulling all three tensioners was mandatory?

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The double blade lets you lock both cams (on the same bank) so it's more robust. The single blade was designed for the 3.4 engines (and Boxster's engine too) because the best you can do is to lock the exhaust cam. The intake cam has no slot at the end of the cam. The double blade also verifies the timing the same time, which should be done anyway whenever an IMS retrofit is performed. I'm pretty sure that's one of the many steps in Jake's evaluation process.

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Learn something new every day. Clearly if the double fits, it makes sense to use it - why leave anything to chance.

More terrific information, thanks guys. Lastly, did either of you go as far to make sure the other bank was all lined up and in time when you where done with the bearing install? Chris

I did but I built my engine from scratch It would be good if you have Durametric to check the cam deviation values before you start the job and verify them afterwards.

That's another item on the to purchase list. Thanks again! Chris

FYI in case you have not seen it http://theimssolution.com/wp-content...-Checklist.pdf http://theimssolution.com/documentation-and-downloads/

One thing that is not shown on the video is to clean out the hose after cutting. Run solvent through it until you are sure that it is clean. You don't want to inject debris into your new bearing. I do this whenever I put a hose on whether it's pre-made or I have made it.

Having just done this job, I locked both sides. I did a 5 chain, and was not going to risk any possibility of cam movement. The AC removal was a major step, but glad I removed tension from the front chain, and locked the cam in place. I also did two rotations of the crank by hand after bearing install and rechecked the cam slots vertical before closing things up.

The new kits (I got the dual row Solution) come with the hose pre-made so no worries about cleaning debris out of the hose after cutting. Not so sure about the length though. It seems like it could have been a little shorter. I also didn't read the caution about aftermarket rear sway-bars until after I installed it. I'm hoping to not have any interference, but I've got a bad feeling...

Started on the fun this last weekend. So far things have been pretty smooth, typical aggravation with tight spots. Found a small piece of metal when the pan was removed. Tiny piece of plastic from what I assume is a chain guide. Oil had a few white colored �dots� or speckles which I chalked up to being most likely moisture�? Don�t think I should be too alarmed about that but who knows for now. Oil looked good otherwise as did the internals I could see from the bottom. Filter was perfect, no metal or anything that resembled glitter. I�d like to somehow get a scope in there to see the cylinder walls. Spark plug looks original and �used��all this is getting replaced with my pile of parts. Lastly, the hose in the pictures below had a half broken plastic 90 degree connector�I managed to finish it off. I think this hose goes to the AOS then loops in the front to I have no idea at this point. I think I found the hose part number in the parts book I have but after pulling the elbow off thought perhaps I could just push on a rubber 90 degree elbow that I can perhaps locate somewhere. The rest of those hose appears to be ok for now. On to the transmission removal next! Chris IMG_9105.JPG IMG_9106.JPG IMG_9107.JPG IMG_9108.JPG IMG_9116.JPG IMG_9118.JPG IMG_9119.JPG IMG_9123.JPG IMG_9127.JPG IMG_9130.JPG

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I hope I'm wrong but that curved piece on your thumb looks like a piece of a timing chain link roller. It's hard to tell from the photos though.

Yeah that would really kill the day...I have no clue what it could be; it sort of does look like it could be from the link...? I saved it, it was had to take pics of. If it is in fact from the chain; there goes my early analysis. Chris

Does it stick to a magnet?

No, it does not stick to a magnet. It is very thin, see measurement if that's any help to ID. Chris IMG_20170703_121611.jpg IMG_20170703_121622.jpg

Phew, not part of the roller then. Thank goodness.