996 problems with window mechanism

Hi guys, another thread about problems with window mechanism on a 996 from 2000, my car is really behaving odd... About four months ago the car started making the double-beep when locking the car, but everything worked fine, so didn't pay much attention to it. Then another few weeks later you could hear a grinding noise from the window regulator and after another few days the window wouldn't come up or down at all. I dismantled the regulator and found that the wire was broken and that the "green" wheel was completely worn, so fixed a repair set and now the window regulator works like a charm when you open and close the window via the normal switch between the seats. However for the automatic function to drop the window when opening the door and vice versa when closing, is not... Correct me if I'm wrong, but there are potentially three sources of problems: 1) Microswitch behind the inner handle of the door 2) Microswitch behind the outer handle of the door 3) The whole latch/lock assembly in the door (probably filled with a bunch of different micro swicthes...) Symtoms: When the door is closed, the window won't drop independently if you pull the inner or outer handle (however the door opens properly so the mechanical door lock mechanism works fine from both in and outside) However if the door is open (with the window fully up), and you lock the door with the remote (door still open), the window will drop, make a beep indicating that the door is indeed open, and when you close it the window will slide up like a charm, and the door be be locked automatically. Now the window is up, and the door is both closed and locked. If I now unlock the door with the remote, pulling the handles (either inside or outside) will not make the window drop and I'm back to square one again. Any ideas where to start - should my guess be that is the door lock assembly which is playing tricks? Not that I think it matters, but I have calibrated the window regulator after replacing the cable so that should be fine). I have also lubricated the latch mechanism and that seems fine. Thanks in advance

I am not certain what you mean by "so fixed a repair set". Does this mean you replaced the entire regulator assembly with a new one or something else? The symptoms seem odd listed above. Did you ever go back into the door to verify that the door latch wire is re-attached?

Quotes source post: 14289311

Sorry, by repair set I meant a replacement kit with a new cable and reel (the green wheel at rolls up the wire). The regulator works fine after replacing the cable and reel and the window moves up and down without any problems when pressing the switch, it's just the automatic drop and raise of the window when you open and close the door that just doesn't work. I've checked all the connections and the only thing that is not connected as the door side is still not fully mounted, is the airbag and the speaker cable, all the other wiring is properly connected. Als the latch wire is fine, as I can mechanically open the door without any problems, and this goes for both from the inside and outside.

Take a look at the link below, I'm hoping that it'll help you troubleshoot the window issue more. If you have any additional questions or need more details, feel free to post a Comment just below the article and one of our techs will get back to you with specifics. Best of luck! http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti..._and_Motor.htm

From my understanding, there is a microswitch in the door latch mechanism that determines whether the door is open or closed. Next, there is a microswitch in the door handle that triggers the motor to drop the window a bit when the door handle is pulled. So you will have to check those two things. The logic has to be worked out. And FWIW, never heard of a "repair" job of a window regulator to work. I have heard of some repair jobs using bicycle cable parts, but that is not going to do it. The only thing that works in the long haul is total OE replacement of the window regulator, not some cheap China made knockoff.

Your door latch and its switches seems to be fine, which is good because the replacement isn't cheap. Since both handles don't work I think it just needs to be calibrated, rather than both micro switches being bad. Of course that could be the case but I would look up the procedure for calibrating the drop before replacing parts.

Quotes source post: 14292003

Ok, thanks. Yes it's the logic that I am struggling with to understand, sometimes I get the feeling that the car is simply confused or out of sync with the signals. And the repair kit was bought from Germany from a major Porsche spare part supplier, and in fact it is just the metal wire with cover and the reel, so this works absolutely fine and it fit like a charm, so have a hard time thinking that can cause a problem.

Quotes source post: 14292042

Yeah, that's what I thought as well, what are the odds that both microswitches goes bad. The car has only 100.000 km (about 62.000 miles), so again it seems unlikely. The calibration part I've done several times, with instructions from Porsche and doesn't seem to make a difference either

Quotes source posts: 14292042, 14291887

Great, many thanks! I will have a look at the link at see if it helps, if not I'll get back to your tech's! Thanks again!

You said - When the door is closed, the window won't drop independently if you pull the inner or outer handle (however the door opens properly so the mechanical door lock mechanism works fine from both in and outside) And - Yeah, that's what I thought as well, what are the odds that both microswitches goes bad. The odds that both microswitches go bad at the same time is pretty high and I'm guessing not your problem. Based on the fact that neither the outer or inner door handles trigger the window drop, the common denominator to both is the window regulator and window motor. There can be absolutely no slack in the cable as the window droop for opening/closing is minute. My guessing aside, you can check the microswitches for go/no go conditions with a multimeter. With the door card off, it would be fairly simple to see what is happening, or not happening when the door handles are pulled. Pull the handles and check to see if the motor is actuated and tries to move the regulator. If it does, then that points to the regulator. If not, then it is the microswitches.

I just went through this. It was the microswitch in the latch mechanism. I ordered a VW latch and swapped parts around for $20 and fixed the issues. I bet the external microswitch in the latch is broken or worn. Time to take the door apart. Just a word of caution, make sure to disconnect the battery. Reconnecting power to the door latch automatically drops the window down creating a bad situation if your hand is in there! https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...witches-3.html

Quotes source post: 14288832

Reads like the door lock assembly/controller. With the window all the way up and the door closed pull either handle and the window should drop. This is a sign the door handle switch is working. Release the handle without opening the door and the window should go back up. This a sign the door latch switch is working. The window dropping when the car is locked reads like the door lock assembly/controller is "confused" regarding the state of the door latch switch. There is probably one or more security system error codes available but to read these requires access to a Porsche diagnostics computer (or an aftermarket Durametric). The interpretation of these codes would go a long way to confirming where the problem lies. The door lock assembly/controller is the most expensive item in the door so you want to be sure this is the culprit before you replace it. You have tried a window calibration operation with no success. About all I can suggest short of tearing into the door again would be try to a "reset" of the car's electrical system. You do this by properly disconnecting the battery and leaving it disconnected for a while the properly reconnecting the battery. Be sure to turn off the ignition and remove the key from the ignition. Do not close the front trunk lid with the battery disconnected. Frankly I don't hold out much hope this will help but at least you would know a reset didn't help. Also, just a reminder to check the door bottoms after a car wash or after the car has been in the rain. These cars are getting up there in years and the door membranes are starting to go. (Both of the membranes in my 2002 Boxster have had to be replaced.) When the membrane goes it lets water from the wet side of the door to the dry side and this can result in all sorts of weird problems initially with the door lock and door windows.