996 Starter DIY tips...

There are several starter DIYs here and on Pelican, and conceptually the DIY is not difficult, but there are a couple of really rotten things to deal with. * When removing the plenum, remove all four hose clamps completely, and then slide the rubberized sleeves as far off of the plenum as possible. Pop the right side out first. * When removing the starter, loosen the top bolt first, but do not remove it. If you do, the starter will sag as you start to remove the bottom starter bolt - which will block access to the bolt and make removing the bolt much more difficult. After situating the new starter, install the top bolt first, and then back it out a turn or two - this will make dealing with the lower bolt much easier. * To get to the bottom starter bolt, remove the right-hand bolt on the alternator (there is an idler pulley on this bolt). Assemble several 3/8 socket extensions and push them through the void made accessible at the bottom right of the alternator by removing the pulley. Use a wobble extension at the end - you do not have a straight shot at the bolt. IMPORTANT: Reach in with your right hand and guide the socket onto the bottom starter bolt rather than trying to coax the socket onto the bolt head from the outside. * When reinstalling the plenum, slide the left side in first, and then rock the plenum back and forth to get it to pop back in on the right side. * When replacing the hose clamps, be aware of the small-diameter tubes connected to both of the rubberized couplers - ensure they are not trapped under the clamps before you tighten them. * Lightly snug all four hose clamps, and then temporarily reinstall the throttle body so you can properly position the pad that's attached to the lower left throttle body bolt. Once that pad is aligned, tighten the two left-side hose clamps to lock the plenum in place, then remove the throttle body to tighten the two hose clamps on the right side. * If you are wearing coveralls or long sleeves, tape up your right sleeve. You'll be reaching into a small space several times to remove the old starter, put the new one in, and guide the socket on that damnable bottom starter bolt, and there are lots of things to catch a sleeve on.

Add to that - disconnect the battery first! You will be dealing with live wires in there. Also found it helpful to place a shower towel folder over several times on the engine block so you can pull the starter and not bang it on the top of the engine. Finally, place starter and finger tighten the top bolt, then work the bottom bolt in by feel. You need a little slack to get the bolt started with your fingers and may need to move the starter a little bit to get it started. I'm getting old and things don't heal so quick anymore - I wrap both arms in Ace bandages all the way up. Kind of weird but hey..gotta do what you gotta do.

Disconnecting the battery is part of every DIY, but you're absolutely right - you can't overstate the importance of that step, especially when you're working with that starter cable that can draw the full amperage of the battery - you do NOT want to be the short in that circuit.

The plenum sucked my first time. They make it sound like it is so easy but it was by far the most difficult part of swapping the AOS. Unless of course they would have added "lower the engine 3 inches and loosen the intake manifold bolts prior to removing the plenums."

I can't believe what a difference the new starter has made. Not just when heat-soaked - even at cold-start, it's cranking SO much faster than the old one. Based on the tooth wear, I'm assuming that was the original starter.

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What did you pay for the starter, if you don't mind me askin'...

The only one I could get in the timeline I needed it was from "DB Electrical" on Amazon. They claim this is a NEW unit, not rebuilt, with a one-year warranty. The cost was a whopping $115.32. No core charge. When comparing this with the original Bosch unit, I'm not sure what's going on. It's identical in every way as far as I can tell - even the perforations and holes on the sheet metal are exactly like the Bosch - but the castings and stampings have different numbers than the Bosch unit. I do not have a newer starter to compare it to, so I can't say if these are factory seconds or a really good copy - but the starter works fantastically, and the heat soak issue is GONE. Amazon.com: DB Electrical SBO0162 Starter (3.4 3.6 3.4L 3.6L Porsche 911 (1999-2008) 99 00 01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08): Automotive Amazon.com: DB Electrical SBO0162 Starter (3.4 3.6 3.4L 3.6L Porsche 911 (1999-2008) 99 00 01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08): Automotive

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Damn that's a deal!!!

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I've had similar issues like that 4 times lately (although none on a Porsche). "Next, simply separate the ball joint from the control arm." Yeah, 4 weeks later, after special tools and beating on the damn thing in all kinds of different ways, I finally got a bigger boat to do the trick - a 12 pound sledge hammer. "Next, simply remove the set screw from the rotor." Well, the set screw takes a T35 bit (somewhat unusual size). Used a T35 security bit (with hole in the center) because that's what I had in my toolbox. Sheared the security bit at the very tip. Next, trip to store to get a regular Craftsman T35 bit. Snapped that bit at the shaft. Next, got another T35 bit and that one stripped the set screw (this of course after using half a can of WD40 on it at regular intervals). Next, drilled a hole through the stripped set screw and used a Ryobi screw extractor set. Stripped out the threads on 3 of the Ryobi extractor bits. Next, trip to the store to buy a set of "Speed-Out" extractors. Snapped the tip of the Speed-Out in the hole. Next, trip to the store to get a special metal drill bit to try to drill out the broken Speed-Out. Special metal drill bit destroyed after barely scratching the Speed-Out tip. Final resolution - screw it, the wheel lugs hold the rotor on anyway. Rigged up a temporary substitute for the set screw until I got the caliper and new pads in place. On the opposite side of the car, took me a grand total of about 10 seconds to remove the set screw.

If I had to guess how many set screws I have drilled out over the years, it would be a not-very-impressive number like 8 - but every one of them has sucked.

My $125 starter from LA electrical $125 starter from LA electrical is going strong after 2 years.

I'm surprised that nobody has jumped on this to complain that the Bosch copper windings are far superior to all other copper windings and that I was a damnable fool for buying a starter that cost less than $700.

Honestly this is one of the easiest "major" repairs I've done on this car. I would tell you for the 3/8" extension go with a 20 inch (or longer) plus a universal joint socket so you don't have to bump your head in the engine bay. It might be different on the 1999 but on the 2002 yes the space to do the work was tight but nothing compared to the coolant tank or AOS. I mean I was expecting the worst and it ended up being a piece of cake. I just did this repair maybe a month ago and did the starter, oil change, replacement of motor mounts, and replacement of the hood shock in about 3 hours if that tells you anything. I also used the Pelican Parts instructions - they worked perfectly. Good luck, let me know if you have any specific questions as this is pretty fresh in my mind because of being so recent! EDIT - Oops just saw you already did this job, oh well I'll leave this here for the next person who reads it.

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Agreed - I wish I'd done it sooner, but I didn't realize how poorly the starter was functioning even when it wasn't heat-soaked. As far as easy - yes, this was an easy 996 repair - but this sucked compared to my Corvette (drive up on jack stands, remove the cable and two bolts, starter falls into your hand). Definitely a job where smaller hands would have been helpful...

I replaced the starter on my 2000 C4 with the LA Electrical model and used the Pelican Parts guide. I took my time as I am somewhat of a novice and I was working alone. I thought things went pretty well. The car started up smooth and no codes but I noticed the idle acted strange. I tried driving it but I didn't get far as something didn't feel right. I let it idle and the rpms started bouncing. I think it has something to do with the vacuum lines because I had a hard time reinstalling the intake plenum. Here is a clip so you can see how the needle moves: You Tube (revved once during the vid) Anyone else have this problem?

Sounds like a vacuum leak. You need to retrace all the steps and see where the intake/vacuum leak is.

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Well, bad news. I retraced my steps and took even more care on the reinstall making sure all the hoses were placed correctly. The car still didn't feel right and even misfired a time or two or five. I immediately thought that's it, I'm screwed. Five months and 1,800 miles and the fun is over. Out of ideas I went to my local Porsche shop. Turns out I somehow managed to pull out or tear out the knock sensor wiring located right around the starter. I didn't feel it happen but it easily could have happened when I pulled out the old starter or put in the new starter. The starter motor weighs about 15 lbs. and you have to reach in pretty far to mount it with very limited sight of the surrounding area. (still can't find a good picture of where the wiring is located in relation) Live and learn, I suppose.

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I duct taped my right sleeve to my arm because I was afraid of catching and unplugging (or breaking) a connector with my coveralls. The plastic clips get brittle after thousands of heat cycles, and I hate to dislodge anything that doesn't specifically need to be messed with. I would have skipped the coveralls entirely, but I didn't have time to wait for the engine to cool down...