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Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHVacuum Line Woes after Y Cable Replacement
Reported or suspected cause
corrosion where the two cables connect
Reported cause
No successful repair reported for this finding.
1
Identified cause
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Suspected cause
0
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Reported cause
On your Y cable, the problem is corrosion where the two cables connect to the starter.
Leading evidence: 'corrosion where the two cables connect' (1 discussions report identifying this cause; no attributable repair resolution). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'corrosion where the two cables connect' (1 discussions; 1 report identifying it and 0 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Disconnect better part of a week and seems' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
The battery was disconnected for the better part of a week and seems to have discharged itself to around 10V.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
Oh and I repaired the vacuum hose with short section of the soft stuff from the auto parts store.
Test good at local autoparts store and the voltage appears
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
Battery tested good at local autoparts store and the voltage appears to drop when the car is warm, so I elected to change the Y cable.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
A year later I am going with the UAOS so I will have one R&S slightly used for sale.
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Suggestion
Between the old and brittle plastic lines and the rubber pieces that could have cracks in them as well, I'm really considering replacing all the vacuum lines with silicone hoses.
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Suggestion
It is designed just like the factory plastic piece and MUST be hooked "under" the mounting bracket before installing/tightening the retaining bolt...It not hooked under, it will have a leverage to break at the mounting tab as soon there is enough torque/pressure/leverage ...( NOTE : this whole coolant line is not used on the UAOS System)
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17 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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So after the adventure of replacing my coilovers, I decided to tackle the slow/no start condition when hot. Battery tested good at local autoparts store and the voltage appears to drop when the car is warm, so I elected to change the Y cable.
The old one came out with minor issues, although I did have to remove the alternator to get access to the 13mm bolt on the back. The old cable looks physically good, but since it's out, it got replaced. Now to the meat of the issue. I am putting everything back together and am reconnecting the minimal lines that I touched, but can't seem to place one. I have attached a picture. It appears to be broken as well. I also broke a coolant connector down by the water pump for I believe the AOS (99610622652) so that's on it's way.
I appreciate any help on the routing of the lines.
Thanks!
Broken? Appears to come off of a "change over valve" part no:
G7PP906270
Casualty of maintenance.
Disregard on the vacuum line, the following post describes the broken line:
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...omponents.html
It goes to the Intake resonance flap actuator. I guess we will have to get a rubber piece to bridge the gap.
I'm (not) looking forward to the vacuum line maintenance when I do eventually drop the engine.
Between the old and brittle plastic lines and the rubber pieces that could have cracks in them as well, I'm really considering replacing all the vacuum lines with silicone hoses. Should fix it once and for good.
I did just that when I pulled everything out to replace the AOS after I bought it. None of the lines were broken... yet. But now I don't have to worry about them.
Do yourself a favor and upgrade that coolant connector to a metal one. Pelican Parts has them Rausch Speigle. More expensive...yeah...but does away with that problem forever.
Smart move. I'll have to do the same in the spring, although my AOS is done. I've gotten pretty good at removing the intake plenums so no big deal. With UAOS you can also plug and get rid of that plastic piece that is prone to breaking.
DBJoe is right on the R&S connector. I upgraded to the URO and it broke on installation. Then I upgraded to the R&S and it's a much better product than the plastic OEM or the sintered URO. A year later I am going with the UAOS so I will have one R&S slightly used for sale. Part number is
996-106-226-52
-M157
On your Y cable, the problem is corrosion where the two cables connect to the starter. You really need to saw it open to the see damage, but you may be able to tell from the melted insulation at the end where they meet and bond to the lug that bolts to the starter.
JB, that cable doesn't look too bad, but you can see that there is no weatherproofing for the connection, so water gets in there and starts corroding the connection and eventually drawing current which lowers the voltage. Mine were hot enough to melt the insulation, shown here.
Y-cable got hot enough to melt the insulation.
Hi 996-CAB, saw your post and had one of our engineers try breaking a few of
Cooling Hose Connector 996 106 226 52
, which is
A380 aluminum
. How were you installing the connector when it broke? Did you attach the hoses prior to bolting down the mounting tab, or after? Thanks!
Wow, this is great to hear from someone at URO. I am fairly certain I had the short lower hose attached before I bolted it in place. I can't recal if the top hose was attached, but what struck me was that the thing snapped in half and I hadn't used any more torque than I would have if I was screwing it in by hand. It was as if the tab just melted in half. Maybe it was a bad casting? Here are two pictures with the second one showing a close up of the break. I'm curious on your take because I have been pretty vocal on this part and would prefer to set the record straight.
URO Part showing broken mounting tab.
Close up of URO part break.
^ Thanks for the photos! It's very strange, our engineer was able to break it in the same location, but he said he took quite a bit of force - considerably more than should be needed to push the hose on the top nipple. We've sold about 550 in the last 12 months with zero defects reported, and though the connector doesn't have a lot of reviews on Amazon yet, they're all 5-stars.
Maybe the one you received was somehow squished during manufacturing / coating / processing, and there was a preexisting hairline fracture that let go when you installed it? That's the only thing we can think of. Naturally it would be best to attach both hoses before bolting down the mounting tab, but it shouldn't really be an issue. We'll keep an eye on it, thanks for the feedback!
I know why it broke, I have seen it before. It is designed just like the factory plastic piece and MUST be hooked "under" the mounting bracket before installing/tightening the retaining bolt...It not hooked under, it will have a leverage to break at the mounting tab as soon there is enough torque/pressure/leverage ...( NOTE : this whole coolant line is not used on the UAOS System)
Porschetech3 is probably right, but if he is, it just shows that the Rauch and Spiegel is a better design because you can't make that mistake.
In any case, after I saw the comment from P3, I took out my eye loupe and looked closely at the part that was supposed to be hooked under the bracket and I can see scraped spots that look like it was scraped as it tried to work its way under the lip - although I felt certain I did hook it under, must have been the lower hose connected to it pushed it out and I missed it. In any case, I am thrilled to be installing the UAOS in April so all and this will go right into the bin.
Follow up exam of broken part.
Everything is back together (and I didn't break the URO part, hooked it first, but bolted it down prior to attaching hoses) and appears to have fixed any voltage issues. With the car running and everything on, it hangs out around just under 14V and doesn't seem to fluctuate much with RPM or load.
The battery was disconnected for the better part of a week and seems to have discharged itself to around 10V. It's on the charger again, but I'm thinking it is probably toast, it does have a manufacture date of 2020, so it's probably time.
Thanks again for all the help!
Oh and I repaired the vacuum hose with short section of the soft stuff from the auto parts store.
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