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YOUR RESEARCHFront Suspension Rattle Victory
Reported or suspected cause
loose brake dust protector/covers
Reported cause
No successful repair reported for this finding.
1
Identified cause
0
Suspected cause
0
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Reported cause
My old GTI in high school did this, and I discovered the culprit was loose brake dust protector/covers.
Leading evidence: 'loose brake dust protector/covers' (1 discussions report identifying this cause; no attributable repair resolution). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'loose brake dust protector/covers' (1 discussions; 1 report identifying it and 0 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Check top mounts' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I had mine installed for $250 labor but I think it is pretty easy.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I replaced all 4 on mine in the past few months, when I was shopping for replacements I didnt like how solid the bushings were on the EPS ones.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
Virtually all of these suspension parts with bushings need to be replaced either due to age or mileage.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
That's the reason Porsche used the spherical bearing.
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Suggestion
EDIT: OK, so this is what I'm seeing from Pelican for control arms and sway bar links - comes out to $5400 - probably a bit cheaper if I get this elsewhere and probably 40% less if I go aftermarket parts, and this is before replacing shocks and springs.
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I have a 2003 C4S with 32,000 miles. It had a bothersome front suspension rattle when crossing cracks in the street pavement. The confusing aspects of this were that it didn�t start until the car had gone 5 or 10 miles and it did not happen if even a small amount of brake was applied. Naturally I looked all over for loose items in the trunk but that was not it. Finally I had the shop replace the lower control arms. These are the ones with the fork, not the ones with the ball joint that are also called lower control arms. Happily the rattle is gone.
Congrats on the win!
Wonder if this might be happening to me. When I go over manhole covers/railroad tracks I sometimes hear a sound like a spoon rapping on a pie plate.
My old GTI in high school did this, and I discovered the culprit was loose brake dust protector/covers. But I believe the 996 doesn't have those.
I bet this is more common than people realize. I bought the new arms from EPS.
http://www.epscontrolarms.com/996-lower-control-arm
They say that this is a common problem but I don't see postings about it. The suspension is firm so maybe people just expect the car to sound bad going over bumps. It had no effect on the drivability. The roads near my house are old concrete so it bothered me to hear the rattle as I arrived home. Also my wife started making cracks about the noise and that made it worse.
I had mine installed for $250 labor but I think it is pretty easy. It would normally also require realigning but the before and after numbers did not change on mine so maybe that is not so necessary.
I had no rattle when even a slight bit of brake was applied. I am guessing that sway bar bushings or sway bar drop links would not behave like that.
I saw some very tired sway bar drop links that were making noise. They would be something you could see with the car on a hoist. The old lower control arm seemed OK on my car and on the bench. I guess it needed more force to make it rattle.
I only had one rattle, now I have multiple and it's driving me crazy. I'll do some more research, but is there away to know if this is the culprit? I also reading it could be sway bars links.
Also, I'm really sick on working on the car and thinking of just farming this off to the local indy. How much time to DIY? Also, I'm guessing I don't need a Porsche specialist for this?
Thanks in advance.
Virtually all of these suspension parts with bushings need to be replaced either due to age or mileage. Replacing my suspension (coilovers) and a bunch of these control arms, and sway bars, and drop links, and on and on, made a huge difference in the driving experience and also eliminated all the squeaks, groans, and rattles. Of course you will need an aligment. What does this all cost? $5,000 and up if you pay someone else to do it all.
The original arms do not have rubber bushings either.
You Tube
I don't like the EPS arms from a design perspective at all, but watch the the youtube and form your own opinion.
Thanks, between this and what Astro said, sounds like more DIY. Between this can and my house, I'm drowning. What is that quote about you owning your stuff or your stuff owning you =P
EDIT: OK, so this is what I'm seeing from Pelican for control arms and sway bar links - comes out to $5400 - probably a bit cheaper if I get this elsewhere and probably 40% less if I go aftermarket parts, and this is before replacing shocks and springs. Conceivably, a bad bushing on any of these can cause a rattle. I'm going to guess the metal parts ok unless me driving it around on bad bushings has caused significant damage at the connection points. I'm thinking I'd rather just pay someone to go through this and replace the bad bushings. Probably cheaper than me going through and replacing this stuff until all the rattles are gone?
Front & Back Control Arm x 4 : Part #: 996-341-053-17-OEM ($400 ea)
Front Control Arm x 2 : Part #: 996-341-941-01-OEM ($800 ea)
Rear Control Arm Link x 2: Part #: 997-331-045-04-M100 ($200 ea)
Upper Control Arm Link x 4: Part #: 997-331-047-01-OEM ($165 ea)
Lower Control Arm Link x 4: Part #: 996-341-043-06-M100 ($260 ea)
Rear Sway Bar Drop Link x 2: Part #: 996-333-069-04-M80 ($33 ea)
Front Left Sway Bar Drop Link: Part #: 996-343-069-04-M80 ($31)
Front Right Sway Bar Drop Link: Part #: 996-343-070-04-M80 ($29)
You sir are correct. The aftermarket part screws up the actual spring rate of the suspension. That's the reason Porsche used the spherical bearing. I'd bet an arm with an aftermarket all metal spherical bearing would be best, but that would require maintenance via greasing more frequently.
Seeing how the arm is installed, I don't like the aftermarket one either, but I know nothing..... I'm just some dude from TX.
Damn mine started this same annoying metal tap sound when going slow over bumps and cracks. I only really notice it with convert top up and at slow speeds.
I'm just some dude from NY, but I'm with you on this one. I've got to believe that Porsche used that spherical bearing for a reason, and I don't see that type of bearing on any of the aftermarket control arm links. I haven't been afraid to put OEM parts on my car -- Bosch MAF, Pierburg water pump, etc -- but in this case I think I'd stick with the OE Porsche part.
I replaced all 4 on mine in the past few months, when I was shopping for replacements I didnt like how solid the bushings were on the EPS ones. I went genuine Porsche instead.
Of course it has those... usually if they're bent or something gets caught between them and the rotor you'll get a scaping noise. Most likely not your "spoon on a pie plate" noise.
I might have to look into this. I have the rare knocking noise from the front over rough roads. Doesn't happen all the time, but it seems to occur when the car rocks side-to-side a bit over bumps.
Those particular parts are difficult to diagnose as there is little visual give-aways that they are worn.
My symptoms were similar, only a clunk during low speed bumps but never at speed. When I removed the old ones there was play in the bushing but not a lot. Make sure you replace both left and right at minimum or all 4 if budget permits.
Exact symptoms I have right now. Just started doing it...so not very noticeable, but I am sure that will change with time. Going to have my indy take a look in a few weeks when I have my oil changed.
