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YOUR RESEARCHWelding on the car/engine....disconnecting the battery only step needed?
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Disconnect battery enough
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If I have the welder ground connected to the engine is disconnecting the battery enough to protect the rest of the electrical system?
Welding on the car/engine....disconnecting the battery only step needed?
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Welding on the car/engine....disconnecting the battery only step needed?
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I have a broken bolt on the engine I need to weld a nut on to get it out.
I don't want fry the DME or anything. If I have the welder ground connected to the engine is disconnecting the battery enough to protect the rest of the electrical system?
Any experiences out there?
Thank you
First, have you looked at any of the more normal extraction options first? (And depending on which bolt, do you have axial access to the remainder?)
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Screw_extractor
It's an oil sump pan bolt.
Have not tried an EZOut....however, I have not had good luck with those... especially on a 6mm diameter bolt.
There about 2-3 threads worth of bolt protruding. Not enough to get get a grip with vice grips. I'm thinking of welding on a nut
I've found that any removal method will work better if you let some penetrating oil soak into the threads for 10 minutes or so.
I really don't recommend welding on steel that close to aluminum. You have a good chance of melting the aluminum before you get any weld bead to form on the steel, unless you have a lot of welding experience. That said, disconnecing both sides of the battery should be sufficient.
Other options (after penetrating oil):
-If you have a dremel or similar you could also cut a slot into the exposed bit of the bolt.
-Drill a 1/8" hole in the middle of the bolt, then hammer a 3mm hex bit into the hole
Good luck!
It looks like that bolt was/is bent... Had the car been bottomed out on that corner of the pan? I'd be worried about melting the aluminum as well with welding... I think any/ all the other options would be a better first try. There may even be a drill guide tool do a bolt this size... good luck
If you go the bolt route, weld in the shortest increments you can so you don't heatsoak the aluminum.
If you have an electric rattle gun, try that once you have the nut in place. Much like the caliper set screws, lots of impacts at low torque may dislodge it, whereas just cranking it with a breaker bar will probably just twist it off flush, and you'll be stuck with an even uglier job.
Try this kit?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/350754629843...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
http://www.brokenbolt.com/small-brok...actor-demo.php
Remember the bolt is not corroded - just bent & broken. The trick is to drill dead center. That is why I have also listed a bushing -type kit also. Fortunately the sump bolts are not very hard(8.8?)
Quick update...
JB Weld didn't work.
Drilling out bolt didn't work.
Wound up doing a Time-Sert. Much easier than I thought. It took about 30 minutes as I took my time checking and double checking. I have never done one before. Super easy process. Of course, I was fortunate that the broken bolt was easily accessible.
