Warning Lights Flashing

I'm getting warning lights for ABS, Rollover Bar, Brake Distribution, and Airbags. I got a battery/charging system on Friday. Drove a few miles to the closest Pepboys, ABS failure light came on and I figured it was because of the battery. Battery was changed and everything was fine until this afternoon. All of the lights above came on and the windows are also very sluggish. Car starts and seems to run fine except all the warning lights. Thoughts?

Never assume a warning light is wrong...at least until proven so.

Try the easiest solution first - new battery. Bosch AGM H-7 is a good choice while at Pep Boys. You can usually order online for store pickup and get 25% discount.

MRJonger states that his battery was changed. If so, I suggest that he checks that his alternator is putting out enough charge to keep the battery up to correct voltage. Pepboys are usually good at determining if the old battery was in fact the problem. If so then it can only be the alternator at fault. Maybe needs new brushes. MRJonger:- Have you had the alternator out and forgot to connect the electrical plug and earth nut up tight enough at the back? Just thoughts on the matter.

Just spitballing: Ignition switch Alternator Brake switch (wouldn't explain slow window though) MAF (ditto on the window)

Thanks guys. Alternator has never been out. I'll take a look at the alternator and ignition switch first. I'll google how to test these, but any tips specific to the 996? Bhrennan - that's the one I chose EDIT: Seems like the auto parts stores can stress test the electrical systems for free. I'll give the battery and alternator connections a once over first since they're all likely closed for the holiday. https://www.renntech.org/forums/topi...or-check-help/

Ignition switch you just change. $30 part (although NAPA stocks a Chinese version for $12). You just change it rather than testing.

Got it, thanks. After I fix the issue, should I take the battery in to get recharged?

Should have done more research before I posted the problem. The voltage on the battery is low and it drops incrementally when I start the car, turn on the lights, turn on the AC. I'm guessing this generally points to bad alternator? I'm waiting on the tool to pull the free-hub off so I can see what the connections to the alternator look like. Is there any way to see if it's bad regulator vs alternator? Also, how do I know the free pulley and belt are still good? Should I preemptively replace them while the alternator is out? Also, something from the rear suspension area seems loose over bumps. I've got the rear wheel off, how do I go about isolating the rattles? I tapped things with an open hand and didn't hear anything. Thanks!

The Bosch upgrade+replacement Alt on Amazon is so cheap it usually is not worth testing/dickering. But yes , it is usually the regulator.But at high miles the bearings.....Note there is a plug plus 2 ring terminals(one smaller.one larger) to connect at the back of the Alt ! Fit a new Conti belt.The premium Gates belt is too stiff to fit easily unless warmed up. Check every pulley bearing and the w/p very carefully. If one pulley bearing is even slightly rough/wobbly= replace all - they are cheap. RND Euro Parts and Rock Auto have them. Check the p/s fluid reservoir neck is not leaking(oil on top of Bank 2 at the front)?

Thanks Schnell. It appears the Bosch part # is AL0812X. I see remans going to for $300 - $400. O'reilly and Autozone are selling their reman Bosch for $153 with lifetime warranty (with core). Those should be fine right? Sorry, what is "w / p"?

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That would be the water pump. Unless you're south of the border, in which case I believe it would be the p / d / a.

Got it. For the 2nd part, I don't know what makes it worse, that you took it there or I understood it.

DIY = destroyed it yesterday

[QUOTE=mrjonger;14226831]Thanks Schnell. It appears the Bosch part # is AL0812X. I see remans going to for $300 - $400. O'reilly and Autozone are selling their reman Bosch for $153 with lifetime warranty (with core). Those should be fine right? Suggest avoid anything but Bosch. Search "Alternator Dark Star" for horror stories.

I couldn't find anything under darkstar alternator. General search seems show that the only issue is that you might go through a few alternators as the remanufactured ones tend to crap out. This has got me thinking I just want to change the bearing, regulator, and clean it with contact solution for $80 vs paying 2X - 5X to switch it for a remanufactured one that might have significantly more miles. @extanker...good thing these cars aren't worth anything

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Get AL0815N, brand new about $280. It's the stock 997 alternator but it fits 996 as well and has 20A more current. Al0812X is a reman. "X" means reman.

Thanks. Given the mileage, I'm thinking about taking the gamble and just replacing the voltage regulator. I can get this bench tested at an autoparts store right? I have to wait a week for the belt anyway. Heads up - Continental Belts (835K6) are are $11 on Rock Auto right now.

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Here is the DarkStar link- : http://986forum.com/forums/general-d...ery-drain.html You Tube Getting the pulley off could be an issue? Do you have the tool?

Thanks. I got it. I see you're in LA, let me know if you ever need it.

I just spent the better part of an hour tapping on the bolt to the idler pulley with rubber mallet while intermittently spraying Liquid Wrench. Alternator is still not loose, is there a better way to do this?

Use Kroil.Let is soak in overnight It is very difficult to hit the target.You need to study the parts manual to see what part you ned to aim at and would need a small LED to illuminate the area. Loosed the bolt and undo it so there is at least 1/4" clearance between the underside of the bolt head and the alternator.Be careful with brutish hammer blows - you could break something. The vibration from an air tool with a blunt punch fitted may be useful?

Got it, the only place that stocks it seems to be Sears. An indy on Renntech is saying he generally has to 1 or 2 taps to the bolt and that's it. https://www.renntech.org/forums/topi...he-alternator/ I also noticed that the tutorial is clockwise whereas the Pelican is counter clockwise. My thought is that I should be rotating counterclockwise on the vertical plane and clockwise on the horizontal plane to twist it out. https://www.renntech.org/forums/tuto...he-alternator/ The burn is that I paid the plumber a $100 the other day to change a sprinkler head in 5 minutes while I'm trying to save money here trying to tapping a bolt for an inordinate amount of time like a circus monkey. EDIT - Gonna have to wait a week for kroil. Apparently you can mix automatic transmission fluid and acetone to make your own? I don't know how you can control all the variables of rusting a nut, but I'm sicking of driving my back up car so I'm gonna try it. Thing below is floating around on the internet when I googled kroil vs pb blaster. Machinist's Workshop Magazine (March/April or May/June, 2007) actually tested penetrants for break out torque on rusted nuts. Significant results! They are below, as forwarded by an ex-student and professional machinist, Bud Baker. They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrants with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment. *Penetrating oil ..... Average load* None ..................... 516 pounds WD-40 .................. 238 pounds PB Blaster ............. 214 pounds Liquid Wrench ..... 127 pounds Kano Kroil ............ 106 pounds ATF-Acetone mix....53 pounds

ATF+Acetone Yes it works ! But research 2 things - the Flash point of Acetone and it's power as a solvent for plastics .Be very,very careful . Maybe try accessing the spherical nut(the problem) from above/behind? Use your Liquid Wrench with a longer straw ? And do grease to outer surface when you refit it :-).

Yikes, thanks for the tip. With my delicate touch, I'll stick with the Liquid Wrench.

I'm about to put the alternator back and notice that one of the connections seems to have some bits missing. Is this normal or does this connection need to be replaced?

Does it have the metal part still in place in the lower part of the terminal? Does it lock in place securely? It is a standard Bosch alternator connector so should be easy to source a replacement with pigtails. Maybe this helps?Plenty more sources like this if you search. http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...-Pigtails.html http://store.alternatorparts.com/c12...connector.aspx How did you finally succeed in removing the nut?

Actually looks like how it's supposed to be. Noticed the top while looking for the part number. I tapped for another hour and it wouldn't budget. So I took a wrench, used the engine block as a fulcrum as support, I pushed up on the alternator from underneath . It took like 2 minutes and was pretty easy. If I can't get the alternator back on, I'll soak the brushing in liquid wrench until tomorrow and try to tap some extra clearance. Thanks for all your help Schnell! Unfortunately, a regulator I ordered turned out to Taiwanese part. I'm going to try it. Hopefully it's fine.

For what it's worth, it appears that the Voltage regulator on the alternator was the culprit. I also changed the ground strap as it was very stiff. Battery voltage now reads 12.4V with engine off and jumps to 14.3V with the engine on, and stays above 14 with the lights and A/C while the engine is cold. The voltage drops to high 13's after car is warmed up. Some helpful links in addition to the darkstar link posted above. http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...Alternator.htm https://www.renntech.org/forums/tuto...he-alternator/ If you are going to replace the pulley's with non-oem parts, get the kit as the OEM mounting hardware is not compatible with the after market pulleys. http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....388314&jsn=354 This diagram might come in handy when you're reassembling. Especially if you accidentally pull out the vacuum lines. https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...omponents.html FYI - local dealer wanted $730 in parts + labor for alternator replacement. The Bosch branded alternator that Ahsai mentioned was $380. The regulator was $40. I also replaced the serpentine belt ($10 on sale) and ground strap ($40). You'll need a 24mm wrench to release the tension on the serpentine belt ($10 for ratchet attachment). I wish I did this first, but the first thing I changed was the battery ($200). I also bought a free wheel hub ($40 INA brand) and the freehub tool https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005OH0LU8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005OH0LU8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 . I'll probably keep these for later use. Finally, buy parts appropriate for your transmission.