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YOUR RESEARCHClick click then Lights OUT cold. Help?
Leading reported evidence
Check few fuses
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I checked a few fuses which were fine but given the total blackout it feels more like a comprehensive fuse on the +12v side.
Leading evidence: 'Check few fuses' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check few fuses' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion
With a charged battery you check power to the fuses with a test light.
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Suggestion
If you don't have 12 volts there but you do at the battery, then you have a break between the battery and the engine and you will need to check all those connections starting with the connections to the battery.
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Suggestion
To fix this, you can get a repair kit from Porsche for $400, or you can tap M8 threads onto the post yourself, recrimp the battery cable with a $10 crimped on ring, and attach it with an M8 nut.
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Suggestion
With a charged battery you check power to the fuses with a test light.
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Suggestion
If you don't have 12 volts there but you do at the battery, then you have a break between the battery and the engine and you will need to check all those connections starting with the connections to the battery.
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
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Suggestion
To fix this, you can get a repair kit from Porsche for $400, or you can tap M8 threads onto the post yourself, recrimp the battery cable with a $10 crimped on ring, and attach it with an M8 nut.
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11 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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Generation: 20261026T190023Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
Dropped my girls off for a sleepover last night in our 2000 c2 cabriolet, went inside for ten minutes to chat.
Trying to leave, car turned over very sluggishly as the battery was dying, then a couple clicks from the starter relay when it no longer had the juice. All typical dead battery stuff up to this point.. then the weird part.
Before I reacted and let the key off of the start position, everything went black. Turned key off and opened door. Dash, interior, every electronic component was black. Window didn’t drop to clear the door frame, total blackout like a car without any battery at all.
I’ve had a small AGM battery in the car for years and typically keep it on a tender when the car sits. The wife’s at a conference so our family car is in airport parking, which was a nice excuse to get the 996 out anyway. This is the first time I’ve experienced this issue.
I tried a quick jump but nothing is reacting to any battery, dead or full. It was late and I was unprepared so I got a ride home to get my full size battery charged, grab some tools, and go back with a plan.
Basically it’s behaving as though there’s a complete break in the loop somewhere, with absolutely nothing getting power. I checked a few fuses which were fine but given the total blackout it feels more like a comprehensive fuse on the +12v side. Friend suggested DME. Any ideas on how to get home without finding a tow truck?
Thanks in advance all.
Added: fusible link maybe?
To try and diagnose this, get a voltmeter (and if you don't own one, now is the time to buy one). Open the trunk and connect the plus side to the jump point and the negative to the bolt that holds the airbox in place. If you don't have 12 volts there but you do at the battery, then you have a break between the battery and the engine and you will need to check all those connections starting with the connections to the battery.
It's not a Y cable. I know. I had this on my neighbor's car with very exact same symptoms.
It's the small + battery cable attachment to the firewall that has been corroded to the point where it no longer carries current. And by the time you get these symptoms, the connector does not "slide off" the post and has to be dremmeled off. To fix this, you can get a repair kit from Porsche for $400, or you can tap M8 threads onto the post yourself, recrimp the battery cable with a $10 crimped on ring, and attach it with an M8 nut.
Removal and reinstall of the post assembly is ... challenging unless you figure out the secret password.
yelcab is correct that it is not the Y cable. You may confirm yelcab view by following my steps and measuring the voltage at the jump point in the engine compartment.
Thanks for all the replies all. My XS Power AGM battery went from low-ish to total failure (internal short maybe) in that moment.
replaced with regular battery and got her home,, I�ll edit the OP after a little diag on the AGM battery itself.
Thanks for identifying the battery. It has some very specific charging instructions I haven't seen elsewhere. This is from the instructions with the battery: "It is very important to NEVER USE a charger designed for flooded 12V batteries, not even once with a XS Power 12V AGM battery. Furthermore, we recommend that the battery be disconnected from the rest of the vehicle’s electrical system during charging."
Off Season Maintenance Instructions:
"All lead-acid batteries, both flooded and AGM designs are subject to self-discharging and this self-discharge rate is very much affected by ambient temperature in which the batteries are stored. Higher ambient temperatures will discharge the battery faster. Cool storage for batteries is the best. When voltage is lower than 12.6V or storing time is longer than 6 months, the battery must be recharged as described in the Performance Curve diagram."
I think I will stay away from this one.