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Suggestion · Original poster
I've been treating all those bolts with pb blaster for awhile now, I've been treating every rusty bolt and nuts for awhile, I've got most everything clean now with time and wire bore brushes that I can find that was rusted.
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Suggestion
For a tune on a build like this, I would highly recommend having it custom done.
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Suggestion
With the amount of options out there, you can pick and chose what items you want to replace based on what you are most looking to get out of it.
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Suggestion
You are going to change the engines running parameters in a way that the stock tune will not be able to compensate for completely.
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Suggestion · Original poster
I've been treating all those bolts with pb blaster for awhile now, I've been treating every rusty bolt and nuts for awhile, I've got most everything clean now with time and wire bore brushes that I can find that was rusted.
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I want to run a set of good headers with nothing else. I'm going to have to make something from the header to the exhaust tips. What to do? Also what do I do with the oxygen sensors. Can they be deleted. No my car is not going to be driven daily, just a toy to play with around back roads that's all. So someone please tell me what to do , headers only to tail pipes, how do I make that work, Will I have to visit a local muffler shop? I want all that weight gone. Will I need a computer tune?
That's going to be loud. I would still run mufflers. It will still sound good - maybe better - with mufflers and you won't blow you eardrums out and/or annoy country folk from 5 miles away. I totally get what it's like living in the country and riding a loud-*** Harley and having straight headers coming off my 1968 6.7L Anerican V8-powered Chevy. But that as still too loud.
A good muffler can add depth to the engine sound
Your best bet will likely to be to go to a custom exhaust shop. You will definitely need to run the Oxygen sensors, at the very least the two primary sensors which are responsible for measuring air fuel ratio and relaying the information to the computer to make adjustments as needed.
I would HIGHLY recommend a tune. You are going to change the engines running parameters in a way that the stock tune will not be able to compensate for completely. A tune will better allow you to optimize the injector pulses, ignition timing and other key running features to help improve performance. It will also allow you to turn off the check engine light you'd get by running catless.
It is worth noting that you may see a drastic reduction in low and mid range torque due to the removal of the cats. You can gain some of this back by merging both banks of the exhaust with an x-pipe, but I understand that you want to keep it as simple and light as possible.
Good luck
Thanks for this information, good to know knowledgeable answers. Thanks for this. Yes I'm trying to keep it simple, but I could have something like a glass pack installed (cherrybomb)(Flowmaster).
But really really Want headers to tips. What computer tuner would you recommend, or can a local Indy provide a tune?
Yes I'm looking for that straight six sounds all of it. I do have a good gas high compression America monster, but it's no fun anymore, Straight line stuff I'm not into at all anymore, unless it's someone else's
Adding a resonator on each side will definitely help, but the car is still going to be VERY loud. For a tune on a build like this, I would highly recommend having it custom done. I.E. Take it to a tuner who has a dyno and can live tune based on the data collected from the dyno runs.
You could get a "box" tune where the file has already been written and it only needs to be uploaded. The problem with this in your instance is that you are not proposing a normal build. A pre-written ECU tune will likely not take into account the straight pipe set up you want.
The custom tune will be more expensive but you will yield better performance with safer running parameters.
Ok maybe I should just stay stock exhaust, but I really don't like it so quite. I want it fully breathing. So I guess it's just not a good ideas without a lot of tuning
Why not a good middle ground? There are plenty of reputable exhaust companies out there that will get you more sound and performance but with proven and reliable techniques.
Take a search around this forum, you will find countless threads of people's experiences.
Unfortunately Soul Performance Products does not produce anything for the 996, but I am happy to have been some assistance.
Just look around, you can get the desired results much cheaper. First decide what is more important to you, sound or power. That will dictate which items you replace and for what reason.
You don't always have to do the whole kit. With the amount of options out there, you can pick and chose what items you want to replace based on what you are most looking to get out of it.
Keep in mind that just adding headers does not make an engine breath more fully. If the engine isn't taking in more air, headers aren't going get more out. I'd suggest some kind of loud muffler if loud is what you're going for (and a different muffler isn't going to give you more hp either......contrary to claims from some performance muffler builders.)
Well, stock 996s are really quiet. Straight pipes are extremely loud. Stock 996s are actually quite "flowing," and you're not going to get a lot more horsepower adding headers and changing the whole exhaust. 996s already have headers.
I performed the gundo hack on my car, and it's not quiet anymore. It's actually decently loud. So you could do headers and mufflers that are lite and open, and it will sound great and loud.
Evan - you're the man! Thanks for chiming in here with your valued experience and knowledge
He is indeed correct that you may want to consider an X-Pipe to merge both sides of the exhaust. This will help you maintain some low and mid-range torque that would otherwise be lost with the setup you were considering. As far as the tune, we have a solution for every 996 aside from the '99 which has a cable driven throttle body. Our tunes can turn off CEL's from a lack of cats and will also take into account the performance components you are running. Ultimately though, a fully custom dyno-tested tune is the way to go if you end up choosing to run full straight pipes from the headers.
Again, great advice from Evan!
Deciding what you are ultimately after is the first step in deciding which components to replace. Starting with the headers is a great way to go though, as the header design on the 996 is very inefficient. On the OEM design, the exhaust pulses from each cylinder combine in a way that creates a large amount of turbulence and robs you of power. After the headers, I have a few options for you. You could opt for a Sport Cat X-Pipe with Muffler Bypass pipes, which would leave just the high-flow cats and no muffler, or you could opt for a Catbypass X-Pipe with our Supercup mufflers. Either of these setups would introduce some drone, but since you are looking to rip around on back-road twisties rather than cruise on the highway, it sounds like it'll be OK for your application! Power and sound are headed your way my friend!
Billy Boat N/A Headers, NIB
$1,050 Now $950
Concord, NC
This is a brand new, unused pair of Billy Boat Stainless Headers for 1999-2004 996 Non Turbo cars. Bought for C4s and never used.
*Part Number* FP0R0800
$950 picked up, shipping available ...
See More
Try the Facebook 996 parts group
One thing to plan for is the
practical
certainty that one or more of the bolts which fasten the headers to your heads will snap off upon removal. I recently had mufflers and cats removed with a set of 997S headers ready to install and I changed my mind on the headers because every single exhaust bolt broke as I tried to remove them. I'll wait until I have the engine out to replace the headers as I did not relish the prospect of drilling out the snapped bolts while lying on my back under the car. Lots of threads on this topic here. You might be lucky of course :-)
Thanks for the heads up. I've been treating all those bolts with pb blaster for awhile now, I've been treating every rusty bolt and nuts for awhile, I've got most everything clean now with time and wire bore brushes that I can find that was rusted.
Gundo hack if you don't feel like forking over big money, but, I did just install a Billy Boat Engineering exhaust just yesterday, and I'm pretty pleased with the sound over stock and install was really pretty simple. Did it on the ground in the parking garage of my apartment complex. The full kit was about $1,300 I believe from LMPerformance. Only thing that really sucked was it took almost a month to get here.
With that said, I originally bought Agency Power muffler bypass pipes (remove muffler and run open cats), drove it for one single trip, went back in the garage and put all the stock stuff back on and ordered the Billy Boat. Way happier than running open cats, and the exhaust itself didn't really break the bank. Next step will be headers and go piece by piece.
Hey thanks for this information, sounds like this is a great option. If I had my car here I would know what To order and remove. But she is still at the Indy.
Thanks for the great information, I was planning to get a intake and filter setup. Loud muffler what be what brand? I'm really not that concerned about the extra hp. Just looking for the most clean and loud that I can get
As long as you know what year and whether its a C2, C4, C4S, etc., then you'll be good to order.
Before installing I put a scale up to make sure both inlets were the same diameter as stock, everything checked out. After removing / adding / removing / then adding exhaust one more time, the whole thing took maybe an hour and a half with hand tools start to finish.
I street/track a 99 996 and to track, we put on 997 headers and straight pipes (with oxygen sensors = no CELs). Did a light chip (for pump gas - in CA it's 91) and it dynos 260 (228 torque) to the rear wheels. But it's REALLY loud - cup car loud. So for the street, we put on a Supertrapp rig (yes - like the bikes). So it's still loud - but not 'get ya pulled over' loud (at least I never got stopped). And you can change the Supertrapp off and on in about 10 minutes, when you're on the track.
As for the chip - it's invisible. Put back the stock exhaust and it passes CA DMV with flying colors.
With the Fister cans, I have 4 exhaust options. Works out great!!
Ok now this is some good stuff here. Please show me every part number recommendation your talking about please. You cam pm me or post this for everyone to see please. I have 94 octane at the pump here
