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Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHIgnition switch replacement tip.
Leading reported evidence
Replace ignition switch
Suggestion or failed attempt
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1
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Read evidence and context
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Suggestion
I am in the middle of replacing my ignition switch with the NAPA ignition switch and have run into an issue.
Leading evidence: 'Replace ignition switch' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Replace ignition switch' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Replace on a 16-year-old car and carried it around
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0
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Suggestion
If I bought an extra of every part I replaced on a 16-year-old car and carried it around with me, I'd need a chase U-Haul.
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Suggestion
Thank you all and Pedros Garage for the guidance, my ignition switch failed, I ordered two replacement parts (so now I have a spare), and was able to replace resulting in my car running and starting again!
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
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Suggestion
I am in the middle of replacing my ignition switch with the NAPA ignition switch and have run into an issue.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
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Suggestion · Original poster
Is the only way to see and get to the top set screw.
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Suggestion
Thank you all and Pedros Garage for the guidance, my ignition switch failed, I ordered two replacement parts (so now I have a spare), and was able to replace resulting in my car running and starting again!
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion · Original poster
Did this last night and the tip I can give, after reading all the write ups, is that the proper flathead screwdriver size for the set screws that holds the electrical witch is the jewelers size screwdriver.
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Did this last night and the tip I can give, after reading all the write ups, is that the proper flathead screwdriver size for the set screws that holds the electrical witch is the jewelers size screwdriver. BUT make sure to use a jewelers screwdriver with a thick handle (not the all metal thin ones you can buy at the dollar store) as you need to thicker handle to generate enough torque with your fingers (the all metal thin ones will slip). Also, removing the air ducts from the left corner of the dash (pull the ducts out too, not just the grill). Is the only way to see and get to the top set screw. Otherwise you will be doing it blind and the chance of success is almost zero. Also, don't need to remove the set screws, only make them flush with the hole and that is enough.
I just use the tip of a screwdriver, like something you put in a bit holder. See below picture, bottom row, first or second bit on the left.
As Schnelly says, you'll be back in there doing it again soon, so best just to buy a spare switch. Throw the screwdriver tip in the box with the switch and drop it in one of your map pockets. Otherwise, you are guaranteeing that Murphy will bite you in the *** with a switch failure at the most inopportune time and/or place.
BTW, I didn't need to remove the left corner air ducts either time I did mine. Just the air duct above the brake/clutch, which is just a squeeze together/pull out trick that takes 2 seconds.
The second one screwdriver bit is too wide, I've tried it. The first look about right.
Yes, I didn't tighten it too much, just enough for the the set screws to dig into the plastic. I was thinking the same thing, it will have to come out at some point again so no need to torque the crap out of them. Also, they are only there to hold the switch in place and there are no real forces on them.
Interestingly enough, when I did mine recently, I discovered someone had replaced one of the grub screws with a longer, much longer one, that allowed the screw to be turned without any tool. Felt like it had a knurled end in fact. I couldn't see it, as I did it all blind, sitting in the seat.
I'm going to try removing the left corner duct so I can see it, and make a second one for the other side. Turns this job into a 5 min, tool-free task.
Just took mine out, thanks to all for the information. Used the small screwdriver bit, didn't need the socket and 1/4" ratchet as mentioned above, didn't need any more torque. I also looked at the description of the DIY on Pedrosgarage.com. I opened the switch and a piece of plastic that had broken off fell out. Now waiting for the part to arrive, I'm tempted to go an Audi dealer and see if he has one and keep the one that arrives in the mail for a spare.
[Image-only post; no author-written text. Original image references:]
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlist.com-vbulletin/250x189/srcstc_f0f84a6e593fa2d27d0af8ae1fa9b7fe49acdbb3.gif
If any of you know the correct thread specifications for the set screws (aka grub screws in Canada and the old Commonwealth) I can try to track down thumb screws from an easy source for everybody. I have not done this switch r/r job so I have no left-over screws to measure. I am guessing from the description they are smaller than M2 ?
For example:
https://www.grainger.com/product/GRAINGER-APPROVED-Thumb-Screw-1PU96?s_pp=false&picUrl=//static.grainger.com/rp/s/is/image/Grainger/1PU76_AS01?$smthumb$
I do have the original screw I removed and will measure once I get hold of a thread gauge, but I think its more like M4 in truth. Larger than you may think. I had a Phillips head one in my box that matched. I just filed a point on the tip and threaded it in.
Here you go ???
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A9NH91Q...buying_options
This is important because we often have weird electrical questions on the Forum and the prime suspect is the flimsy switch. But replacing it is such a chore that people re reluctant to do it.Instead they fiddle with other more accessible potential culprits and we go round and round. Eventually the switch gets replaced and the thread is abandoned. Guess why ...
JTT bever confirmed the thread spec. Hopefully he or others will confirm for us.Anyone with an old ignition switch and a thread gauge would be a hero !
Yeah, sorry about being so slow. I don't have a tap or thread gauge that small, so have to remember to bring it to a friend who is a machinist, with the proper tools to confirm.
JTT - take your time - that is a morsel of information that any conscientious ,long-term diy oriented owner will be happy to wait for -because with the ignition switch -doing it once is never enough !
I am in the middle of replacing my ignition switch with the NAPA ignition switch and have run into an issue. The connection is 90 degrees off from what I removed. Any tips on how to fix this?
I wonder if something like these would facilitate the job of ignition switch replacement? M4 x .7 SS set screws w/knurled **** -
http://www.scopestuff.com/ss_scr1.htm
Perhaps, but we need to know the length of the threaded portion. If this is unknown, an assortment shown for the 'scopes in the ink above my be better. When we learn what the correct minimum length is, we can order the correct, specific fastener.
? these are 10mm long for example.
http://www.microfasteners.com/scms40...ess-steel.html
Thank you all and Pedros Garage for the guidance, my ignition switch failed, I ordered two replacement parts (so now I have a spare), and was able to replace resulting in my car running and starting again! In my case I had a small jewelers screwdriver with a tiny handle, I wrapped duct tape around the handle to enable me to have more torque, and was able to then loosen the two screws holding the switch. Anyhow, thank you all! Cheers, John
Question: why are people so inclined to buy two of these and keep one in the car when the first one lasted well over a decade? If I bought an extra of every part I replaced on a 16-year-old car and carried it around with me, I'd need a chase U-Haul.
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