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YOUR RESEARCHIMS Bearing Removal And Inspection
Leading reported evidence
Use ln engineering bearing removal tool
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
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Read evidence and context
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I used the LN engineering Bearing removal tool set which did the job well.
Leading evidence: 'Use ln engineering bearing removal tool' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Clean bearing was a little noisy' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion · Original poster
Without the oil in it after cleaning the bearing was a little noisy but that is not unusual for bearings.
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Suggestion
Take the ***** out and inspect the surfaces, also inspect the races.
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Suggestion
Take the ***** out and inspect the surfaces, also inspect the races.
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Suggestion
So if it was etching from acidic oil, that would mean the motor sat for a long time on an unbelievably long oil change interval.
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Good afternoon. I finally removed my IMS bearing and thought I would post my findings. My car has 108k miles on it and had no signs of failure. I was overhauling the heads and pretty much everything else due to a crack in the DR side head.
I used the LN engineering Bearing removal tool set which did the job well.
Upon initial inspection the bearing and stud looked great and in all honesty probably would have spun another 80k miles or until the next clutch service without issue. I was actually a little disappointed that I removed it.. That is until I pulled the seals on the bearing. It was filled to the brim with oil. The seal itself had hardened and was allowing oil to enter. It was relatively fresh oil so it must have been getting in and out easily. The ball bearing surfaces are clean and unmarked. So there hasn't been any real acidic destruction. Without the oil in it after cleaning the bearing was a little noisy but that is not unusual for bearings.
Something I did notice was some severe pucking on the flange. I cannot tell if this was acid destruction or a manufacturer flaw.
I have not completely decided which method to retrofit but I do know that I will be installing another dual row. 108k miles and this bearing was still solid.
image_zpskuwbztwa.jpeg
The corrosion on the flange is not good. Looks like acid pock marking. Take the ***** out and inspect the surfaces, also inspect the races.
As for the bearing being full of oil. I would bet that by ~ 15k miles all of the grease in these bearings has been washed out by the hot oil. These seals just aren't made to run in a 200+ degree oil bath.
I don't know, though I'm by no means authoritative here. The transmission side of mine looks exactly like that. The bearing side is smooth, but it looks like it was machined down (surface is kinda like a record). It could be that his just didn't need as much material removed and left some of the casting surface in place.
The oil needs to sit and be old to turn acidic, but the face of the flange would be exposed to what's moving around in the motor pretty freely. So if it was etching from acidic oil, that would mean the motor sat for a long time on an unbelievably long oil change interval. It's a problem in the bearing because the oil doesn't move freely with the seals in place.
If that was acid etching I would also expect the face of the bearing to show signs as well.
Again, not an authority here, just saying it could be nothing.
Yeah... The flange marking is something I have never seen before. The markings are identical to the texture on the outward facing face. First thing I thought was acid, just the damage is in odd places.
There is no acid etching or marks on the bearing so the acid theory seems weak. Especially because the ball bearing and all surfaces are shiney and look new.
image_zpsvjjx9ubi.jpeg
Thanks for posting the evidence.Single or Double row?
Just waiting for the lubrication vs. load debaters to use the photos to support their version of IMSB failure-causes .
Even if the seals had remained intact because they were Viton and not Buna(??) , would the outcome have been much different ? IMSB seems fine despite being occasionally splash-lubed by old oil.
One thing seems clear - there certainly is some oil supply to that area. Maybe not much oil but some. Enough to have lasted another ???miles ?
The 'etched' marks are an interesting distraction from the main issue which is that despite all the issues, the bearing looked O.K. and functioned O.K.
You need someone like JFP who has seen hundreds of IMSB's to make a more insightful comment than mine.
That that cast surface didn't fully clean up and oh those cutting tool marks -- indicating chatter suggest both a bad casting and a bad machine setup.
That part should have never been installed.
It should have been tossed into the recycle bin and a better part used.
Don't you just love the **** poor QC and what passes at a supposed untouchable car company like Porsche?
As a recent Porsche owner, I often wonder if it was always like this or fairly recent (past 15 years)? I'd vote for the latter as the suits and bean counters can overtake anything.
Eddie
Well, my initial assessment was a bit harsh and having had some time to reflect on it let me modify it some...
While the mentioned casting and its machining looks bad, the surface finish is, within reason, not critical. As long as the machined face cleans up enough the casting doesn't bend when the bolts are tightened and the machined face is perpendicular to the centerline of the part as bad as it looks the part is ok.
It wasn't the end flange that was the problem in this case either. The end flange might have gone to the end of the car's service life with no problems.
Still I much prefer to see an end flange with no casting surface showing and nice concentric tool marks with no chatter. While both parts are suitable for the task I know which one I'd like to find installed if I pulled the engine apart.
I do not plan to dissect the bearing so I won't be able to share pictures of the races but under magnification with a flashlight they looked mint. There was also no play at all.
I just want to put a stock bearing back in.. Geez this thing could pass for new after 108k...
I am about to look at mine as well ..its a MY99 with 168K orginal miles.
Noticed some weeping down there on rthe bell housing..
I read the early ones had a double row IMS as stock and would just like to replace with new Porsche brand one like that?
good idea or no??
