11 captured repliesDiscussion pagination complete · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHLocking Issues and Battery Drain
Reported or suspected cause
rear center console compartment lid
Reported cause
No successful repair reported for this finding.
1
Identified cause
0
Suspected cause
0
Reported fixes
Read evidence and context
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Discussions that report identifying a cause
1
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Reported cause
A common cause is the rear center console compartment lid.
Leading evidence: 'rear center console compartment lid' (1 discussions report identifying this cause; no attributable repair resolution). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'rear center console compartment lid' (1 discussions; 1 report identifying it and 0 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Install behind the ignition key' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I suspect that your electrical ignition switch (electrical part fitted behind the ignition key under the dashboard) needs replacement.
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Suspected cause · Original poster
I currently have the battery disconnected and will try reconnecting to see if the problem was caused by a dead battery.
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Suggestion · Original poster
The ignition switch was replaced around 3.5 years ago...would it go bad again that quickly?
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Suggestion
I suspect that the passenger door latch might be the culprit but since that is around $150 and a bit of a pain to replace, I would start with the $30 ignition switch.
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Suggestion
I suspect that the passenger door latch might be the culprit but since that is around $150 and a bit of a pain to replace, I would start with the $30 ignition switch.
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Suggestion · Original poster
I was initially planning on replacing the trunks locking mechanism (and micro switch) but am concerned that this will not solve the issue if the other doors are not locking.
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
11 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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Generation: 20261026T161109Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
I have a family member that has a 2002 996 that is having issues with the battery draining and with locking the doors. I am hoping that somebody here can give me guidance as to what needs to be fixed. Here is a list of the issues:
Single honk when the lock button is pressed on the remote.
Doors do not lock when the lock button is pressed on the remote.
When the doors are manually locked (using the key), only the drivers door locks. I have not found a way to lock the passenger door.
Lights stay on in the car for many hours after leaving the vehicle (thus draining the battery.)
The trunk has some minor damage (closed on cord).
The remote does pop the trunk appropriately (the trunk kicks up approximately 1/5 inch when popped)
Fault code 33 - Passenger compartment monitoring censor has been pulled of the car.
I currently have the battery disconnected and will try reconnecting to see if the problem was caused by a dead battery. I did pull fuse C3 to turn the interior lights off but this also effects the windows and top. Obviously leaving the fuse out is not ideal.
Any input would be greatly appreciated. I was initially planning on replacing the trunks locking mechanism (and micro switch) but am concerned that this will not solve the issue if the other doors are not locking.
Sounds like one of the doors (passenger side?) is not fully closed - not closed enough so the alarm system recognizes it closed. Horn honk indicates a fault like door being open and lights remaining on indicate door circuit not closed. I'd start there.
I suspect that your electrical ignition switch (electrical part fitted behind the ignition key under the dashboard) needs replacement. It's a common troubblemaker in these cars. The part is fairly cheap and is a max 30min job with a small screwdriver. Replacement diy is described in other threads.
The symptoms you discribe causes me to believe that when you turn the car off with the key, the car does not go completely off. Thereof horn beep, light on etc. = ignition switch malfunction
How would I diagnose this? From my understanding (and as jhbrennan mentioned), the single beep signifies that something is open. The ignition switch was replaced around 3.5 years ago...would it go bad again that quickly?
I did learn that if I turn the key multiple times counterclockwise, the doors will lock. I did find that the gas cap would not lock which may be the problem.
Change the ignition switch.
Go big and get the $30 one from Pelican, or $50+ from Audi or VW.
You could shoot the moon and get the $200+ from Porsche. Or cheap out and get the $11 one from Napa, if you want to do this again in a couple of years.
The first three are basically the same switch.
Porsche sells the whole switch/steering wheel lock assy - more hours to put it in. This is supposed to be a permanent fix although some of these have been reported to have switch problems.
$11 Napa has had reliability problems.
A single beep on locking indicates that something is open. Could be the trunk, hood, center console, etc. Could even be an after market radio not being installed properly. I suspect that the passenger door latch might be the culprit but since that is around $150 and a bit of a pain to replace, I would start with the $30 ignition switch. They seem to have magical powers and cause all sorts of weirdness.
These things should happen if the door latch is good.
The window drops 1/4 inch when the handle is pulled.
The window stays down while the door is open and the handle is released.
The window goes back up when the door is closed.
Well, the horn beep indicates that something is not completely shut off. Can be many things but in combination with your locking door problem it tells me that first position of key turn is still activated (or part thereof..) Unfortunately these electrical components have an ability to go bad rather quickly so 3.5 years is not unusual. As said by others, it's a pretty cheap fix. My tip is to buy an Audi part for about $30
The windows function appropriately when opened/closed. I should have mentioned this int he first post. I have ordered a new latch for the gas lid and will see if that solves the problem (I noticed that it did not latch when I finally figured out how to get the passenger door to lock.
If the latch does not work, I will move on to the ignition switch. Thanks!
I'm not sure that the gas latch would cause a beep. Mine wasn't locking because there was a plastic collar missing but it never triggered a beep when locking the car. A common cause is the rear center console compartment lid. Have you checked that?
