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YOUR RESEARCHreplacing coolant expansion tank in 2002+
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Replace about 10 years ago
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Tank was not yellowed - and had been replaced about 10 years ago - but i guess 10 years of heat cycles and it is toast.
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When I replaced my coolant tank on my '99 C2, I didn't lower the engine, but did struggle with the tank going back in.
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Plus T-Hose that connects to tank was cracking/brittle - so that was replaced.
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Suggestion · Original poster
is it NECESSARY to lower the engine on the 2002+ model years in order to remove/replace the coolant expansion tank?
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Suggestion · Original poster
But i can not seem to find anyone who has tried (successfully or not) to replace the tank without dropping the engine.
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hi guys, haven't posted here or even visited for a while as ive been moonlighting with another make for the last year or so.
anyway, brought the 996 out for the winter months, and after a couple of weeks driving i believe i have encountered the leaking expansion tank issue.
i have looked through all of the how to's and diys, from pelican, renntech, sharkwerks, youtube, and on here.
there is one question i have that has not been definitively answered:
is it NECESSARY to lower the engine on the 2002+ model years in order to remove/replace the coolant expansion tank?
all of the diys are on 99-01's, and for the few that are 2002+, the authors have dropped the engine. But i can not seem to find anyone who has tried (successfully or not) to replace the tank without dropping the engine.
i know, i know, lowering the engine is a simple operation, etc. etc. but i would like to know as it'll impact the time i need to complete the operation, and what tools i need to have on hand.
thanks!
Yes. There was not enough room on my 2002 C2 to pull out the tank without lowering the engine. Tank is very long and it is a very tight fit to remove it. Putting it back in is just as annoying.
That sounds like an interesting technique and I definitely see how it can help on both mkI and mkII. Any risks of damaging the cv joints? I guess probably the movement is small enough it won't hurt the cv joints.
When I replaced my coolant tank on my '99 C2, I didn't lower the engine, but did struggle with the tank going back in. Lots of cuts and scrapes on my fingers and hands, but a satisfying job to do.
+1
1/4" drive 10mm socket, 6" wobble extension + universal joint made the job possible for me on my 2003 C2 cab.
Also take the O2 sensor wires out of the guide trays to give more slack and release the power steering lines from the bracket on the firewall above the pump.
The worst part of it all is not so much placing the water tank in its place but trying to tighten the screws without access to them.
I did lower my engine and aside from the mounts nothing else had to be disconnected. Sounds intimidating but really isn't all that bad.
Was a royal pita on my 02 cab. I messed with it all afternoon, dropped the engine as much as i could, and still couldnt get it out. I eventually ran out of time and dropped it off at my indy. He did it for about $350 (i supplied the tank). Best money i ever spent on this car. I had done the water pump, belt and tensioner earlier that day...that was easy.
argh... after all of that i ordered the wrong tank from pelican.
they have one tank listed as for MY99-00 in one view and MY99-05 in another view.
i only noticed the differences after i had all of the hoses and wires disconnected. the biggest differences appear to be the location of the sensor (bottom on the older version, on the inboard side of the newer version) and the overall size (the newer version seems to have an additional fluid cell for more volume toward the front of the car). anyway, i had to put all back together and now have to wait for the new part to arrive.
Could not see how to remove that bracket ..
I tried to remove tank today - got the smog pump and top hoses out - but could not get channel lock onto lower tank hose to remove ...
I think it is a trip to the indie on Monday. Coolant is still in tank slightly below min level - hope I can drive a couple of miles since split seems to be above that level - if I watch the temp ....
tank did not seem to want to slide sideways out of the bracket easily - I thought I could do that to get better access to the hose - but didn't want to pull too hard and break something ....
Update - tank was replaced - could see area where seam was leaking in middle of right side. Tank was not yellowed - and had been replaced about 10 years ago - but i guess 10 years of heat cycles and it is toast. Put on new cap also. Plus T-Hose that connects to tank was cracking/brittle - so that was replaced.
While I was picking up the car at the shop - I saw a Boxster on the lift with transmission removed.. I asked indie - "IMS ? " - he said " yep, engine was making a loud rattling noise from that area - so we removed the transmission and it turned out just to be loose flywheel bolts !" Wow , that guy dodged the bullet !
Loose DMF bolts ?
They are one-time use item. I wonder if someone had been in there before and re-used the bolts or used generic bolts w/o threadlocker.?
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